September 22, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
271 
therefore, apply an insecticide for these infestations. There must not be 
any lack of moisture at the roots, water being applied as required, and a 
supply of liquid manure to weakly and heavily cropped trees will help 
them to perfect the buds and recuperate their wasted energies. The 
ventilation cannot be too free. If the wood is not maturing well keep 
the house rather warm by day and throw the ventilators open at night, 
yet a moist atmosphere must be avoided, as that tends to growth instead 
of ripening. 
Late Houses .—The grandest Peach as regards size, colour, solidity, 
and quality for late use is unquestionably Rivers’ Gladstone, and it is 
equally as good when grown to ripen early in September as it is at the 
end of this month or early in October. All the late Peaches require 
generous treatment and liberal supplies of water through the growing 
season, with no lack of nutrition when the fruit is taking its last 
swelling, then there is no want of juice and flavour. If pinched in these 
respects the fruit may please the eye, but it does not satisfy the palate. 
When the roots find due supplies of liquid the trees and fruit do not 
suffer, but a rather drier condition of the atmosphere is beneficial 
whilst the fruit is ripening. Some soft netting looped up in small 
pockets to prevent the fruits bruising each other is useful to 
save any fruit falling through ripeness. An experienced person, 
by examining the fruit every morning and evening, will generally 
be able to dispense with the netting, but it is tantalising to lose 
some of the best fruits, especially when they might have been 
saved by a net disposed beneath the trees so as to prevent 
their receiving damage. Thin the shoots where too crowded. Those 
which have borne fruit should, as soon as the fruit is gathered, be cut 
out to a successional shoot at the base. 
Strawberries In Pots.— The plants must not be neglected for 
water. Needless supplies seriously injure them by making the soil 
sodden and sour ; yet allowing the foliage to flag is a common cause of 
the trusses having puny flowers and antherless stamens. When the soil 
is getting dry and before the foliage flags is the time to supply water. 
The batches intended for early forcing should be given plenty of room in 
the sunniest spot at command, and they may shortly be placed in frames, 
only using the lights in frosty weather and to throw off heavy rains and 
snow, ventilating freely when the weather is mild. If any plants remain 
wet for several days without needing water they should have the drain¬ 
age examined and rectified if defective. Expel worms with lime water. 
The crowns are numerous in some varieties, a number of small crowns 
clustering round the central one. The small crowns should be removed 
sideways with a wedge-like piece of hard wood without injuring the 
central crown or the leaves. By so doing the vigour of the plant will be 
concentrated on the main crown, and though the trusses of bloom will be 
fewer, the fruit will be finer. Keep the surface of the soil rather loose, 
so as to insure the water passing equally through the ball and moisten¬ 
ing it thoroughly. A little dried cow manure rubbed fine applied to the 
surface of the pots aids root formation, and a little bonemeal, say a 
pinch between the finger and thumb to each pot occasionally, assists the 
plumping of the crowns. Remove all runners and weeds, and give the 
plants plenty of space for the full exposure of the foliage to light and 
air, so as to secure sturdy growth and well developed crowns, with a 3 
much food stored in them as possible. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Bulbous Plants.— Any bulbs in a dry state are considerably 
weakened by being kept out of the ground much later than this, though 
as far as bedding Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, and Crocuses are con¬ 
cerned they cannot well be planted before the beds are cleared of their 
summer occupants. In addition to taking an early opportunity of 
planting miscellaneous bulbs, newly bought in or otherwise, advantage 
should also be taken of a dry time in September or the early part of 
October for lifting, dividing, and replanting many of the bulbous plants 
already established on the place. Not that these require annual or even 
biennial attention, but most of them pay well for lifting and replanting 
every third or fourth autumn. 
Anemones.— The apennina, nemorosa, vernalis, and coronaria 
types are all perfectly hardy. They are very beautiful in the early 
spring and summer months, and are simply indispensable where bright 
coloured flowers are largely required for cutting. They succeed 
admirably in a variety of positions, including fruit borders. They ought 
to have the benefit of a freely worked loamy soil to which road grit or 
sand and well decayed cow or horse manure have been freely added. 
Dispose the roots 2j inches deep and about 5 inches apart each way. 
Crocuses.— Patches of these in variety are very effective near the 
fronts of shrubberies and mixed borders, where, if they are planted early 
and about 4 inches deep, they will increase rapidly, paying well for 
lifting, dividing, and replanting every third or fourth autumn. 
Crown Imperials and Frltlllarlas.— These ought not to be 
disturbed often, but if there are signs of failure or it is desirable to 
increase the stock of any of the varieties, directly their growth is com¬ 
pleted lifting, dividing, and replanting may take place. They ought not 
to be very roughly used, but a small ball of soil and roots should, when 
possible, be saved with each bulb, the replanting not being long delayed. 
Mixed borders and the fronts of newly formed shrubberies are the best 
positions for this class of plants, there being then no necessity for often 
disturbing them. Any bought in should be obtained and planted not later 
than October. All require a rather rich loamy soil, those that have 
been purchased or roughly used being well surrounded with sand. Plant 
just below the surface in groups of three or six bulbs. 
Cyclamens. —Both C. Coum and C. europajum are comparatively 
hardy in the more southern parts of the country, and are admirably 
adapted for rockwork. The present is a good time for planting them ; 
they ought to have a rather dry sheltered position and a light sandy soil 
to root in. Plant in groups of about three plants. 
Dogr's Tooth Violets.— These are more hardy than the foregoing, 
and are worthy of cultivation for their beautiful leaves alone. They 
thrive best in a peaty sandy soil, where, if not interfered with, they 
spread rapidly. The fronts of shrubberies and the margins of beds are 
the best places for them. If the soil is of a somewhat heavy nature add 
common peat and sand freely, or failing the former use abundance of 
good leaf soil. 
Hyacinths. — Those permanently planted should not often be 
disturbed, but when they are moved September and October, or before 
fresh root action commences, will be the best time to do it. Late in 
October or early in November is quite soon enough to plant new bulbs 
in beds or borders. The Grape, Feather, and Musk Hyacinths are of a 
very different character, and all are very effective in their way. Every 
four or five years is quite often enough to disturb them, and they ought 
therefore to be planted rather deeply in front of the borders. They are 
not particular as to the kind of soil they are planted in. 
Irises.— About every third season the bulbous-rooted varieties 
ought to be lifted, divided, and replanted, taking care not to wholly 
clear the roots of soil. This may well be done now, and new bulbs 
planted as soon as they can be had. They all ought to have the benefit 
of a freely worked well-enriched soil, and if planted somewhat thinly, 
or about 8 inches apart, and fully 4 inches deep in beds, the surface of 
the latter during the winter and spring may be furnished with Alpine 
Auriculas, Pansies, and such like ; and during the summer with 
Verbenas, Mignonette, and other tender plants that do not unduly rob 
the ground of moisture and fertility. 
Narcissi and Daffodils. —These rank among the most serviceable 
and the most popular spring flowering bulbs that can be grown. To be 
constantly successful with them they must not be disturbed oftener 
than every third or fourth year. Single bulbs of choice varieties, given 
good room and not disturbed, soon surround themselves with offsets, all 
of which flower grandly when comparatively small, always providing 
they are not prematurely detached from the parent bulb. It will thus 
be seen that flower beds are not the proper places for any but the cheap 
Narcissi of the Polyanthus type ; but they will do well near the fronts 
of mixed borders, shrubberies, and even the open spaces between fruit 
trees. Commoner Daffodils should also be extensively planted along 
side paths and drives in woods, and the poeticus type of Narcissi thrive 
admirably on the banks of ponds and lakes. It may not be advisable to 
dot them promiscuously over lawns and turf generally, but they thrive 
well and are very effective when grouped in the turf not far from 
shrubberies and under high spreading trees. In most cases the tops die 
down before the grass need be mown, and every season the effect will 
be greatly improved. From 6 inches to 8 inches apart each way is none 
too much space to allow all the larger varieties in the various sections, 
the smaller forms being located about 5 inches apart. Plant to a depth 
of about 5 or 6 inches. They will thrive in almost any kind of soil, 
but are most at home in a fairly rich free-working loam, sand or road 
grit being freely added. 
Snowdrops.— These must be planted early, and not of ten disturbed, 
or otherwise the stock of bulbs will soon dwindle away. Groups of 
bulbs 2 inches below the turf on lawns, banks, in shady places, and the 
margins of lakes, shrubberies, and borders where they are seldom or 
never disturbed, rarely fail to increase rapidly and flower abundantly. 
Tulips.— Any that have long been undisturbed in one place may 
shortly be lifted and replanted, and new bulbs of border varieties ought 
to be put out not later than the middle of October. Give them some 
fresh loamy soil and a little sand to each bulb. 
s2[ 
m 
HE BEE-KEEPER. 
1 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Feeding Swarms. 
During unfavourable weather swarms should be supplied with 
a few pounds of sugar reduced to syrup. Use about equal weights 
of sugar and water ; it is better rather thin than approaching a 
thick state, when it adheres to the bees and injures them. This is 
a time-honoured practice, and if not carried to excess is a sura 
means of securing a good return of honey for the little outlay on 
sugar. 
Swarms. 
Swarms always work better than unswarmed stocks, and if they 
have favourable weather gather more in proportion. The best 
time for swarms is just when honey is moderately plentiful and 
about two or three weeks before the great flow, and should be 
supered at its commencement. As swarms are also liable to swarm 
in from five to six weeks after their own exodus they require to be 
watched. If it does not pay in one way to have them watched it is 
a greater loss to leave them alone. 
