September 29, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
279 
set up with their natural habit of growth displayed. Let me, at 
the risk of bringing a house about my ears, give an instance which 
occurred during the past season at a show at X-. Two stands 
were set up by two well known amateurs, lovers of Roses and 
herbaceous plants. Long and anxious was the time spent in adjudi¬ 
cation. They were each in their way of equal excellence, and it 
was a case in which I think equal first prizes might have been 
fairly awarded. They each had a rare plant, so that there was no 
advantage that way, if it is considered an advantage, although, 
as I have already said, I do not think it ought to be. One dis¬ 
played a larger quantity of flowers in each bunch ; the other showed 
more the habit of the plant, and was more elegant in its arrange¬ 
ment. I think anyone will see what a difficult task this was, and 
the diversity of opinion expressed by those who knew anything of 
the subject showed clearly that the difficulty did not exist only in 
the minds of the judges ; the effect in both stands was excellent, 
but then it was a different kind of effect. 
Frankly, then, I do not see how the variations in judging are 
to be avoided unless the schedule lays down very distinctly on 
what lines the judges are to decide. If they do not wish to encou¬ 
rage brilliant masses of colour, then it must be worded so as best 
to show the habit of the plants where practicable ; and after all, 
perhaps it is one of those things which may be left to settle them¬ 
selves. Managers of shows will keep their eyes open, and exhibitors 
will see what is required ; and so, after a time, we may see stands 
of these delightful flowers which will satisfy the most exacting 
taste.—D., Deal. 
PEACHES AND NECTARINES IN THE OPEN 
AIR. 
These can be produced in great perfection in many places 
where proper care and attention are bestowed on the trees. In the 
far north and in some extremely cold districts they may not 
flourish, but in many cases where failures have taken place it is 
more the fault of the cultivator than of the soil and climate. I 
have seen gardens many miles to the south of where I write in 
which it was said Peaches would not grow on the open walls, only 
under glass, and the same remark has been heard many miles to the 
north. With an average amount of care I am of opinion that 
they can be grown, and that to a great state of excellence, in 
ordinary seasons. 
On a recent visit to Wycombe Abbey I saw a grand crop of 
both Peaches and Nectarines on the walls. They were produced 
on both young and old trees. The secret of success seemed to be 
to keep the trees in a healthy state and never to allow the branches 
to become crowded. Where this is allowed to take place the shoots 
can never ripen thoroughly, hence weak blossom is the rule, and 
this is destroyed by the first frost in spring. Mr. Miles is so well 
known as a veteran grower both of fruits and vegetables that one 
expects to see everything well done, and the trees are living wit¬ 
nesses of good treatment. Many of them are getting old but still 
bearing excellent crops of fine fruit. 
The system adopted is to keep on planting maiden trees year by 
year as space can be found, and by this means always having some 
well established trees at hand to replace any that show signs of 
decay. There can be no doubt that this is an excellent plan where 
space can be found on the walls, as the trees become acclimatised 
in a great measure, and they can be transplanted to any part of 
the garden required. An important feature in growing Peaches in 
the open air is to keep the roots as near the surface as possible, for 
when these get deep down into a cold subsoil the wood seldom 
ripens properly. I consider Peaches and Nectarines amongst the 
very best trees to transplant if done frequently. It is possible to 
transplant a large tree and secure a moderate crop of good fruit 
the same year. 
All kinds of stone fruit prefer a firm soil, and unless this is 
given them failure is almost sure to follow. One-year-old maiden 
trees are the best to plant, as they can be trained into any desired 
shape according to circumstances. The object should be to secure 
as many young shoots as can be ripened ; they must not be crowded. 
I would advise the very earliest varieties being planted, as well as 
some of the latest, so as to prolong the season. In the autumn as soon 
as the leaves have fallen the young shoots should all be loosened 
from the walls and only the oid or main shoots left fastened up. 
This will, in a measure, prevent the trees from coming into bloom 
very early, as the cold winds will get behind the shoots and help to 
retard them. As a rule they should be protected from frost in 
spring, for no matter how much one tries to keep them back they 
will always be in flower before danger of frost is over. 
The folio wing varieties were all bearing good cr ps at Wycombe 
Abbey, and I may add that most of the varieties have not failed 
for years, although we are Bituated in an exposed part of the 
country. 
Peaches. —Alexandra, a large, handsome, first early variety ; 
Waterloo, an American variety, bright red, of medium size, very 
early ; Hale’s Early, medium size, very early and handsome ; 
Early Grosse Mignonne, very richly flavoured ; Royal George, 
large and handsome when well grown, and one of the very best ; 
Goshawk, an American Peach, and by many considered to be the 
best midseason variety grown ; Crawford’s Early, large and finely 
flavoured ; Noblesse, large and richly flavoured, tree tender in some 
positions, but well worth growing ; Bellegarde, large and good, one 
of the best ; Dymond, tree hardy and very prolific, fruit large and 
highly flavoured ; Sea Eagle, large, pale in colour, but of good 
flavour ; Barrington, a strong grower, but the fruit is melting and 
excellent ; Late Admirable, one of the best for late use ; and 
Lady Palmerston, large and handsome, very late. 
Nectarines. —Lord Napier, without doubt the best early, it 
is large and handsome ; Dry den, large, good grower and bearer ; 
Elruge, medium size, one of the best ; Violette Hative, large and 
highly flavoured ; Stanwick Elruge, rich and good ; Pineapple, 
handsome and finely flavoured ; Victoria, very large, but should 
be planted on a warm sheltered wall ; and Albert Victor, melting 
and good. 
Both Peaches and Nectarines are named in the order in which 
they ripen. There are many other varieties that could be grown, 
but all those named can be depended upon to produce a good crop 
in ordinary seasons. To those who prefer Nectarines to Peaches, I 
can recommend Spencer as being one of the handsomest exhibited 
this season. Mr. Rivers speaks very highly of it, and describes it 
as one of the largest grown, and as being very rich and good. 
It would be interesting if other growers would record their 
experience with outdoor trees, as it is by comparing notes that we 
gain knowledge which can be utilised at this season, when we should 
be preparing for giving any new or untried variety a chance by 
adding it to our selections.—J. Smith, Mentmore. 
NOTES ON HYACINTHS. 
(Concluded from page 255.') 
It will be necessary for them to remain in the plunging 
material about six weeks, but they should be carefully examined 
after they have been in a month, for they must not be allowed 
to draw while in this position. When once they have formed 
a good per-centage of roots they grow quickly, even rapidly, if 
the weather is genial. The ordinary methods of plunging 
amongst ashes, or covering them over, will not do when the 
object is to exhibit the plants. The position selected should be a 
north one, for it is better to retard at the commencement than 
near the show date. The crown of each bulb should be covered 
with a small pot, which will insure it against injury from any 
hard substance. The spaces between the pots can be filled in 
with coal ashes which have been passed through a fine sieve ; in 
fact if cocoa-nut fibre refuse is not at hand they can be covered 
over with this material to the depth of 6 inches. If severe 
weather should intervene before the plants are removed from the 
plunging material they should be protected by spreading litter from 
the stable over the surface. There is no fear of injury by frost, 
but it might be impossible to examine them and remove them at 
the exact times required if frozen. 
When removed from the plunging material they require the 
most careful treatment. They should be placed in a frame or 
structure from which frost can be excluded. The small pots should 
still remain on them, and a mat should be placed over the lights of 
the frame. In short, they should be most carefully and gradually 
exposed to light. Sudden exposure will ruin all chances of success. 
What growth they have made is in a highly blanched condition, 
and the object is to admit light so gradually that injury to the foliage 
or the spike cannot take place. When green they should have a 
light airy position near the glass at once. Do not place them on a 
shelf, it is too dry for them ; they delight to stand on a cool moist 
base. To give them these conditions I would rather have them 
a small distance from the glass than close to it on a shelf. The 
object from this time is not to push them into growth, but to allow 
them to grow as naturally as possible. Artificial heat should not 
be used, except to exclude frost. Bear in mind that a close confined 
atmosphere, if only for a short time, is certain to increase the 
length of the foliage, and to some extent destroy its sturdiness, 
while it also increases the length of the flower spike from the top 
of the bulb to the base of the flowers. This tells against the plant 
on the day of exhibition. The chief aim of the cultivator must 
be to treat che plants as naturally as possible, shielding them only 
against the adverse circumstances that would tell against 'hem in a 
state of nature. When the season is fairly advanced a cold frame 
is the proper place for them, and if they display the least signs of 
coming on too fast they should be removed to a frame with a 
