388 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 13, 1892. 
Details of the Operation. —These are simple, but upon their 
careful carrying out greatly depends the success or otherwise of the 
experiment. First of all a wide trench should be cut out at a distance 
of from 3 to G feet from the bole or stem. The exact distance must be 
regulated by the size of the tree. All roots found on the side of the 
trench should be cut off. When sufficient soil has been taken out to form 
a deep and wide trench the bulk of soil and roots surrounding the stem 
must be carefully examined as the operator, standing in the trench, 
works away the soil from among the roots with a fork. The strong roots, 
perhaps roughly severed when cutting the trench, must be traced to see 
whether they have branch roots of a similar strength. In many cases the 
chief cause of vigour and over-luxuriance lays in the perpendicular 
descent of the tap root, which requires to be severed. Some trees, when 
the principal roots on one side have been cut, can be carefully drawn over 
so far as to expose to view the whereabouts of this main feeder. All cuts 
should be made on the under side of roots, drawing the knife from the 
tree towards the operator. Others, such as those growing against walls 
and any not desirable to disturb too much, can be undermined to reach 
the tap root. 
General Treatment of the Roots. —During the operation some 
amount of care is necessary in preserving those retained from injury and 
preventing shrivelling by too long exposure to the effects of sun or 
drying winds. As a number are loosened from the soil it is best to 
fasten them together out of the way, and cover with some damp material 
such as hay or a moistened mat. It will be found, as a rule, that the 
roots of luxuriant trees have had a downward tendency. This must be 
rectified by encouraging a more horizontal growth, which can be done 
in the process of re-laying the smallest roots, placing them so that when 
fibres are emitted they will extend near the surface. In trimming the 
roots special care must be taken that every jagged end or injured portion 
is cut clean to good parts. The proper way is to cut the roots from the 
bottom upwards at the shortest possible angle, using a sharp edged knife. 
tV here any fibrous roots are present those should be carefully retained, 
and the cuts on the larger roots made as near to them as possible. In 
filling in the soil introduce some fresh of a light loamy character, but 
avoid manure mixed with it. Make the soil firm as the work proceeds. 
Where abundant roots exist they may be shortened at different 
lengths. 
mulching and Staking. —After the work is completed all trees 
ought to be carefully secured against rocking to and fro by the wind. 
The best plan is to wrap some sacking or similar material round the 
stems at about half way, to which three strong wires should be attached, 
drawn tight and fastened securely to strong wooden stakes driven well 
into the ground at an angle beyond the loosened portion ; then mulch 
the ground as far as the roots extend with short littery manure, which 
will serve to retain some of the warmth in the soil, prevent rapid drying, 
and resist severe frost. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Plues.— Young Plants. —These should now be arranged so as to 
derive the fullest benefit of light and air, keeping the glass clean both 
inside and outside. As the sun heat diminishes a corresponding diminu¬ 
tion cf temperature must take place until it reaches the winter standard 
of 55° to 60° at night, and 65° in the daytime. A high temperature by 
artificial means only induces a weak attenuated growth in the plants, 
and that is fatal to their producing good fruit later on. Ventilate 
freely on all favourable occasions, particularly on fine mornings ; but 
avoid cold drying currents of air, as these only stunt the plants, and 
cause them to yield fruit prematurely. Make an examination of the 
plants about once a week for watering, and whenever a plant needs 
water give it copiously at about the same temperature as the bed, but 
only when absolutely necessary. 
Plants to Fruit Early Next Year. —Queens are the best to afford a 
supply of early fruit, and to insure the plants throwing up fruit at the 
proper time they must be given a comparative rest after making good 
growth. Those intended to show fruit early in the year should be kept 
in a house with a temperature of 65° in the daytime by artificial means, 
ventilating at 70° and closing at that temperature, the bottom heat 
being kept steady at 70° and the night temperature at 60°. Keep the 
plants on the dry side, watering only when necessary ; yet do not let 
the soil become so dry as to cause limpness of the foliage, which weakens 
the plants. 
Plants Showing Fruit. —Such will afford ripe fruit when it is scarce 
and dear, therefore give the plants the best position in the fruiting 
department, both as regards proximity to the light and plenty of space. 
Keep the bottom heat steady at 85° to 90° at the base of the pots! 
Maintain a temperature of 70° at night, 5° less when very cold, 75° 
artificially by day, advancing from sun heat to 85° or 90°, and close the 
house at 85°. Sprinkle the pathways when their surfaces become dry, 
and occasionally bedew the plants on fine afternoons. Examine the 
plants once a week for watering, and when any require it afford a 
copious supply of clear liquid manure at about the same temperature as 
the beds; but neither these plants nor fruiters must be over-watered, 
as that has a tendency to cause the fruit to be black at the centre 
when cut. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Earliest House. —Prune the trees 
when at rest and put the house in order. The trees having been 
properly attended to in disbudding, and the growth equalised, there 
will be little need of pruning. Any weak wood, however, may be 
removed, and the leading shoots be shortened, so as to originate the 
requisite growth for furnishing the trellis, and, where too crowded, the 
shoots may be thinned. Untie the branches from the trellis, cleanse the 
house thoroughly, and after washing the trees with soapy water, 3 ozs. 
softsoap to a gallon of water, dress them with an insecticide before 
again securing them to the trellis. There should not be any attempt at 
tight tying, but plenty of space must be left to allow for the swelling 
of the branches. Limewash the walls, remove the surface soil down to 
the roots, and supply fresh turfy rather heavy loam, with a tenth of old 
mortar rubbish and a bushel of wood ashes to each cartload of compost, 
making firm, and following with a good watering. The outside border 
also should be surface dressed in a similar manner, and, if in a 
thoroughly moist state, protect with about 3 inches thickness of leaves 
and a little litter to prevent their blowing about, as cold rains reduce 
the temperature of the soil considerably, but allow the soil to be 
thoroughly moistened before covering. Where the lights have been 
removed, they may remain off until bad weather sets in, otherwise 
admit air to the fullest extent. 
Second Early House. —The trees now have the foliage down, except 
a few vigorous ones, and in their case the falling of the leaves may be 
assisted by lightly brushing them with a broom. Now is the time to 
cleanse the house and dress the trees, also to top-dress the border, as the 
insects are then destroyed before they have time to find secure winter 
quarters, and the roots push into the new soil at once. Where the trees 
have been properly managed there will be little wood to cut out, con- 
fining it to removing any useless parts having escaped the knife at 
thinning after the fruit were gathered, and these, with other shoots not 
required for next year’s bearing, should now be removed. Any shoots 
considered too long may be cut back to a wood or triple bud, making 
sure that the centre one is a wood bud, which is not always the case, 
and to leave sufficient wood with fruit buds for insuring a crop next 
year. Shoots of 8 to 12 inches length must not be shortened, nor need 
those that are very much longer, as all shoots have a few wood buds at the 
base and one at the extremity, and others amid the fruit buds, espe¬ 
cially vigorous growths ; but in the case of weak shoots the intermediate 
buds are generally blossom buds only. To re'ain much wood is a great 
mistake, as the trees are weakened by an excess of blossom, and there 
is not space for training in the necessary growths for future bearing so 
as to insure their thorough exposure to light and air. If the lights are 
off, do not replace them until severe weather comes, but allow the 
borders to become well moistened by the autumn rain. If the lights 
are fixed allow plenty of air at all times ; avoid permitting the borders 
to become dry, but keep in a moist condition by watering as necessary. 
Midseason Houses. —In these the foliage is approaching maturity, 
and the lights being kept open day and night as they should be, the 
wood will mature well, and where that is effected the roof lights may 
be removed, which will ensure an even and thorough moistening of 
the soil, and there is no water like rain for refreshing the trees 
and enriching the soil. If the trees are too vigorous, not setting and 
stoning the fruit well, lifting or root-pruning should be attended to as 
soon as the wood becomes firm and the buds are plumped, so that fresh 
roots may be formed, this being more certainly effected when the trees 
have foliage than when it is deferred until they become leafless. Any 
trees that are unhealthy should be lifted, and have the roots laid in 
fresh soil, and this done carefully has a beneficial result. 
Late Houses. Late Peaches are as valuable as they are tempting in 
appearance, and they ripen under glass in the worst seasons. Barring¬ 
ton and Late Admirable were at no distant date our best late Peaches, 
and Salwey seldom ripened, and when it did was dry and flavourless. 
Now we have some first-rate varieties, with size and appearance, and 
when given due supplies of water and nourishment when the crop is 
swelling, also when the fruit is taking its last swelling for ripening, the 
quality is as good as the looks, otherwise the fruit is often dry and 
mealy. Princess of Wales, Lady Palmerston, Prince of Wales, Lord 
Palmerston, Sea Eagle, and Nectarine Peach ripen in September as a 
rule ; but we have had fine fruit of those varieties in October, Sea Eagle 
as late as the 12th of that month. Gladstone, Golden Eagle, and Comet 
are the latest good Peaches, and the first is unrivalled by any midsesson 
variety for quality. By ventilating freely through the summer they 
may be had a.s late as when grown outside, and the fruit can be insured 
ripening, which is more than can always be effected outside. In cold 
localities culture under glass is imperative, with command of fire heat 
to insure the ripening of the wood, the varieties Prince of Wales and 
Lord Palmerston being unsatisfactory in some districts without artificial 
heat ; but with it they are simply superb in size and first class in 
quality. The wood should be kept thin so as secure sturdy short-jointed 
wood and to get it well ripened. Shoots that have borne fruit, and not 
being extensions, should be cut out as soon as the fruit is gathered. 
Trees growing too luxuriantly and late may have a trench taken out at 
such distance from the stem as will check their vigour and cause the 
buds to become plump, and after remaining open about three weeks the 
trench should be filled up and the soil made firm. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Unsightly Flower Beds.— Early frosts sadly disfigured very 
many flower beds, and a spell of wet sunless weather has spoilt the 
appearance of still more. Nor is it possible for many of them to recover 
1 rum these adverse effects, and the sooner the beds are put into a more 
ordeily state the better in most cases. Where the beds have to be filled 
with shrubs and spring-flowering plants, as much as possible of this 
ought to be done before November. Dry weather should be chosen for 
this important work, as then it can be done without unduly disfiguring 
the walks and turf, and if the beds are a little on the dry side so much 
