October 13, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
389 
the better, nothing ever thriving so well when it is little better than 
puddled in. Therefore unhesitatingly break up the disfigured beds, and 
proceed at once with the work of refilling. 
Hints upon Planting.— Nearly any kind or variety of Conifer in 
a small state looks well in masses, bat the coloured forms of Re'.inosporas, 
Thujas, Cupressuses, Yews, and such like as specially prepared by the 
leading nurserymen for the flower garden, are by far the most effective. 
Variegated tree Box, Hollies in varieties, Berberises, Ivies, Osman- 
thuse3, and Euonymusea are also admirably adapted for the decoration 
of flower beds, and with these may be associated Pernettyas, Cotoneasters, 
Skimmia japonica, and other berry-bearing plants. Very neat dwarf 
Rhododendrons in beautiful variety and well set with buds can also be 
had at a comparatively cheap rate, and these are very gorgeous late in 
the spring. Handsome trees 18 inches to 2 feet in height of the Conifers 
named are most effective when dotted among dwarf flowering and 
variegated foliaged plants, and to these may well be added elegant 
Yuccas and variegated Iris. All transplant readily both now and again 
next spring, and if taken good care are available for the beds several 
autumns in succession. Flowering plants such as Wallflowers, Forget- 
me-nots, Silenes, Saponaria, Polyanthuses, ‘Primroses, Daisies, Lim- 
nanthes, and others should, if provided in sufficient number, be planted 
rather thickly, as they seldom make much top growth, after beiDg placed 
in the beds. See that they are ini a moist state at the roots before they 
are lifted, move with a good bail of soil about the roots, and replant 
firmly. Golden Pyrethrum, if not allowed to flower, will be available 
for replanting, and the smaller Beet from either flower borders or the 
kitchen garden will give a little colour for several weeks, and if the 
winter is mild look well till next summer, especially if the flower stems 
are pinched out. Old Violas should have straggling growths cut away, 
and if divided and replanted will present a very gay appearance next 
spring, flowering a little later than summer-struck plants. 
Sprlngr-flowerlng Bulbs. —Freely used these enliven the flower 
garden surprisingly in the spring. Narcissi, Hyacinths, Tulips, 
Leucoiums, Crocuses, Scillas, and Snowdrops associate well with the 
shrubs and plants already named, or the beds may be principally filled 
with them and carpeted over with short neat pieces of tree Ivy, Box, 
Aucubas, Hollies, Laurels, Mahonias, and other evergreens, these pre¬ 
senting a fresh appearance, being a great improvement on the bare 
soil for several months, and benefit rather than injure the bulbs 
underneath. Beds of Hyacinths in one colour edged with either Snow¬ 
drops, Crocuses, or Scillas in contrast are very gay, a change being 
afforded by a mixture of colours. The same remarks apply to Tulips 
and Narcissi, grouping them together answering better than general 
mixtures. In large beds circular patches of either Narcissi, Hyacinths, 
or Tulips might alternate with other flowering plants, or dwarf Conifers 
and shrubs, or they may be interspersed among the latter when these 
are thinly planted. If Hyacinths fill the centre of the bed dispose 
them 9 inches apart each way, while if the surface of the bed is carpeted 
with other plants, the bulbs may be put out 12 inches asunder with 
advantage, the crowns being covered about 4 inches deep. Where the 
soil is of a heavy nature surround each bulb with sharp sand ; Narcissi 
to be treated similarly to Hyacinths. Plant the neat growing Tulips, 
notably the Van Thols, 4 inches apart and 3 inches deep, but the 
stronger varieties may be disposed 6 inches asunder. A little fresh 
gritty soil benefits Tulips, and the choicer varieties ought certainly to 
receive this extra attention. Snowdrops, Scillas, Crocuses, and Winter 
Aconite are most effective near the margins of beds, and planted 
in double lines or circles. Plant 4 inches deep, and not more than 
3 inches apart. On light warm soils Ranunculuses may be planted in 
November, but where the soil is of a cold clayey nature keep them out 
of the ground till a favourable time arrives for planting in February. 
Shrubby Calceolarias. —As yet these plants cannot well be dis¬ 
pensed with in the flower garden, and a good stock ought to be raised. 
It is not yet too late to insert cuttings. No bottom heat is required, but 
it is advisable to raise shallow frames well off the ground with the aid 
of old hotbed material not far advanced in decay, also partly fill the 
frame with the same and then cover with about 4 inches of light loamy soil, 
on this placing 2 inches of sifted soil, making this firm and level and 
facing over with sharp sand. Select short, firm, flowerless shoots, cut 
these below the third joint, and trim off the lower pair of leaves. Dibble 
them in at once and just clear of each other, taking care that the 
cuttings touch the bottom of the holes, fix firmly, and give a gentle 
watering. Keep the frame close and shaded from bright sunshine till 
the cuttings freshen up and fail to flag when the sun shines on them, 
after which ventilate freely in order to keep them as hardy as possible. 
Protect from severe frosts only. 
Bedding- violas. —Autumn-struck plants of these are by far the 
best for summer bedding, and properly treated they are unrivalled for 
brilliancy, especially during the early part of the season. Although much 
hardier (they are quite hardy in fact) Violas succeed admirably under 
precisely the same treatment as Calceolarias. Prepare frames as for the 
latter and select the young shoots springing from the centre of the old 
plants, make these into short cuttings, dibble them in rather thickly, 
and treat exactly as advised in the case of Calceolarias. Failing plenty 
of the young central shoots make the best of the flowering tops into 
cuttings, as these will develope into very good plants, fresh growths 
springing up from below the surface next spring. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stephanotls florlbunda —Plants that are grown in pots and 
have completed their growth may be taken from the roof and thoroughly 
cleaned. If they are not too large they should be thinly trained round 
stakes and stood in any dry structure where the temperature ranges 
about 50°. The plants will need less water during the process of 
ripening their wood prior to resting. The wood must be thoroughly 
matured, and a good rest is essential to their flowering profusely another 
season. 
Allamandas.— Where these are desired in bloom as early as pos¬ 
sible the plants should be dried at their roots and removed to a tempera¬ 
ture of 50 8 to 55°. They will soon rest under these conditions, and in 
six or eight weeks may be pruned and introduced into heat. It is not 
necessary to dry these plants so that every leaf falls from them ; on the 
contrary, all that is necessary is to treat them as semi-evergreen. We 
frequently prune back the plants when they are in full leaf, provided 
they have been kept dry and in a lower temperature, and they flower 
profusely. The Allamanda flowers are useful at this season of the year, 
and may be had by giving the plants brisk heat and supplying them 
with weak stimulants. 
Bougainvillea glabra. —With good and well-ripened growth the 
plants will be safe in a temperature that does not fall below 45°, and if 
kept rather dry at the roots the plants will soon go to rest. A lengthened 
period of rest in a low temperature is essential to the successful 
flowering of this useful plant. To allow every ray of sun possible to 
reach the best growths the others may be cut clean away. 
Caladiums.— These are rapidly dying down, and should be stored 
in any dry place where the temperature will range about 55°. We find 
they rest, and the tubers are perfectly sound in this temperature. If 
kept in a low temperature the tubers are certain to decay. Some care 
is needed not to hurry the plants to rest; they should be allowed to die 
down gradually, and then the pots may be laid on their sides. The 
same remarks apply to Gloxinias and Achimenes, but they are safe in a 
lower temperature. 
Justlcia flavicoma. —Some of the earliest plants are coming into 
bloom, and may be removed to the conservatory, where they will be 
found useful. The plant deserves to be much more largely grown for the 
embellishment of houses that have to be kept gay during the winter and 
spring. When the first flowers fade place the plants in an intermediate 
temperature, and they will flower again in due time, in fact for three 
times in succession, and frequently the second bloom is the best. A 
temperature of 50° will suit them very well. 
Begonias. —Plants raised from seed or cuttings in spring and grown 
in cold frames will flower prof usely during the next two months if placed 
where they can enjoy a temperature of 50° to 55°. These varieties are 
invaluable for supplying flowers at this period of the year. However 
useful such varieties as Ingrami, Knowsleyana, and others may be at 
this season the tuberous forms are still more valuable for supplying 
flowers for cutting for room decoration. Seedling varieties of 
semperflorens may be allowed to come into flower, while those 
of semperflorens gigantea may be pinched to induce them to 
branch. These thrive well in a temperature of 50°, and may be placed 
into larger pots if they need it. Weltoniensis is nearly over, and the 
plants may be stood at the back of a vinery to rest ; the few remaining 
flowers can be cut. 
Dracaenas.—If these plants are checked in their early stages by 
insufficient root room they seldom do well afterwards. A small shift 
which will be ample to keep them growing slowly during the winter. 
Young plants in 3-inch pots must be placed into 5-inch or, they will be 
useless for growing early in the year. Careful watering is needed after 
the plants are potted at this season ; if overwatered the evil is as bad as 
if the plants sufEered by confinement at their roots. 
Gardenias. —Clean these thoroughly, and if the plants have been 
all grown together divide them into two portions. Place the earliest in 
a temperature of 5° warmer than the others, and if buds are already 
formed flowers will soon follow. Do not allow the plants to suffer by 
the want of water, and be careful not to give stimulants too strong. 
Bplphyllums —Where these were assisted by gentle warmth to 
make their growth and have been since well ripened in the greenhouse 
many of the plants will have their flower buds in a prominent condition, 
and may be placed in a temperature of 50° to 55°. They look well 
when elevated on pots in a groundwork of Adiantum cuneatum. 
Epiphyllums are much more useful during the closing months of the 
year than when they flower towards spring. Water the plants carefully ; 
the extreme drying system practised by some persons is ruinous. 
Dlpladenias. —These must be watered with great care, or the plants 
will be seriously injared. If they have been trained up the roof and 
the growths are fairly well ripened take them down and train them 
round stakes. In this way the plants can be more carefully attended to 
than when their pots are standing behind other plants, practically out 
of sight. 
Ixoras.— As these go out of flower place them at the warmest end 
of the house, and syringe them freely during bright weather. Watch 
for thrips, which if allowed to exist will soon destroy the foliage. Apply 
water carefully, but do not allow the plants to suffer by an insufficient 
supply. 
Glorlosa superba. —Allow this useful plant to go to rest by 
gradually withholding water. Do not unduly force rest upon it, or the 
tubers will suffer and feeble growth follow next season. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Dicksons (Limited), The Nurseries, Chester .—Select Reset 
J. Schwartz, Lyon, France .—Roses 
