862 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 20, 1892, 
crimson Calceolaria in the centre of a long bed, a broad band of Henry 
Jacoby Pelargonium next to this, a broad band of Flower of Spring 
next, a broad band of Lobelia (blue) next, and a broad band of Ajuga 
reptans purpurea to finish with. This is a good hardy plant for edging, 
and gives very little trouble. 
A fifth (circular) bed was planted as follows :—Centre, dark-leaved 
Cannas interspersed with pink Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, a broad band 
of Rev. F. Atkins Pelargonium, and a band of mixed Phlox Drummondi 
pegged down. This formed a bold and effective bed. 
The beautiful tuberous Begonias have played an important part in 
the flower garden ; beds of these, with Mesembryanthemum cordifolium 
variegatum were very gay. Where the Begonias can be planted in 
separate colours they are far superior to Pelargoniums ; they flower 
more freely, and no cuttings have to be taken to mar the effect. Where 
there are large beds and borders to be filled the old Rudbeckia New- 
manni and Salvia patens form very bold and telling masses.—T. A., 
Cirencester. 
PINK IVY-LEAVED PELARGONIUMS AND 
MARGUERITES FOR BEDDING. 
“ I AM asked to furnish two large beds with pink Ivy-leaved Pelar¬ 
goniums and Marguerites. Will Mr. Dunkin, who wrote on page 280 in 
the Journal, please let me know the varieties he has proved best for the 
purpose, and the distance apart for the Marguerites to have the most 
effect ? ” 
Thus writes a correspondent, and I have pleasure in detailing a little 
more of my experience. Madame Crousse is the best Ivy-leaved Pelar¬ 
gonium I have yet tried for bedding purposes ; the colour is generally 
described as a delicate rose, but outdoors it may correctly be termed 
a true pink, as the colour gradually changes from rose to pink after the 
flowers have been opened a few days, and there is no other bedding 
plant 1 know of which supplies such a beautiful shade as does .this. 
Wherever it is seen in good condition by those who have not grown 
it, a determination to do so in the future is invariably the result. 
This variety is a capital grower, producing abundance of long trailing 
shoots, especially adapted for pegging down. Old plants, which have 
become too tall for pot culture, may be turned to good account by 
planting them in the flower beds and intermixing a few young ones 
with them. Both old and young plants flower very freely in our soil, 
which is light and well drained. 
Rather close planting should be practised so as to produce a good 
effect quickly. When our plants are pegged down the points of the 
young shoots are regularly disposed at about 2 inches apart all over the 
bed, a mass of flower is then speedily produced. The only attention 
required for the rest of the season is to stop a few of the strongest shoots, 
cutting out an occasional one where the growth is becoming crowded, 
and keeping dead flowers removed. 
Souvenir de Charles Turner is a good bedding variety, of a rosy 
magenta colour, the individual pips of each flower truss being large and 
full. The shoots produced are thicker than those of Madame Crousse, 
but they do not grow so freely ; and although the colour is richer than 
that of the former variety, it is not generally so much admired. 
The Marguerites when put out should be strong plants, root-bound 
in large 60-size pots, the stems having been stopped twice. This will 
cause them to flower freely instead of starting rapidly into growth after 
being planted out—a most important consideration. The beds I planted 
last year were large oblong ones, 4 feet in width. Only one row of 
Marguerites was planted, these being dotted along the centre at intervals 
of 3 feet, a distance which answered admirably for plants of the size 
above indicated. If, however, I were to plant a round bed, or one which 
required two or more rows of Marguerites, I should place them 4 feet 
apart, as it is important to allow plenty of pink to show between them 
to produce the best effect. If at any time the Marguerites show a 
tendency to grow too strongly a few of the Pelargonium shoots should 
be turned back, and the roots of the Marguerites cut round with a spade 
at about 6 inches from the stem. In this way they can be kept within 
due limits and constantly flowering throughout the season. 
Mrs. Perry Pelargonium, Cineraria maritima (pegged down), or 
Centaurea ragosa each make a good edging for a bed so planted. Last 
year, however, I edged one bed with a broad band of Golden Feather, 
and I was told by an artist of repute that the dark green of the Ivy¬ 
leaved Pelargoniums, their pretty pink flowers, and the golden edging, 
when considered as a combination of beautiful shades of colour, was 
simply perfection.— H. Dunkin, Castle Gardens, Warwick. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. Earliest Vines in Pots .—In a previous calendar we 
enlarged on the desirableness of taking the early supply of sweet, thin- 
skinned Grapes from Vines in pots, in preference to starting permanently 
planted Vines at an early period. Well managed Vines in pots produce 
Grapes that are quite equal in quality if not in size to those borne by 
Vines planted in borders, and often better, from the conditions of culture 
being more favourable. This is the case where the Vines are given the 
benefit of bottom heat, but to insure success the canes must be 
sufficiently strong, thoroughly ripened, and duly rested. As a start 
must be made the 1st of November to have ripe Grapes in March or 
early in April, the materials for affording bottom heat—that is, tree 
leaves and stable litter—should be in due course of preparation. The 
heat about the pots must not exceed 65° at the start, bringing up the 
fermenting materials to the level of the pots by degrees, so as to 
augment the temperature to 70° to 75° about them when the Vines are 
in leaf. Any Vines in pots required for starting later should be placed 
under cover, an open shed with a north aspect being suitable, but the 
pots must be protected with dry hay or straw, and mice and rats kept 
down, or the animals may render the Vines useless by girdling them at 
the collar. 
Vines for Starting in December .—The pruning will have been per¬ 
formed ; if not it must not be further delayed, as early and complete rest 
for a few weeks contributes to an even break, the Vines responding to 
the heat and genial atmosphere better than when little rest is given. 
Pruning to two buds is usually followed by a good show of useful 
bunches; but if such have not done so in previous years, or larger 
bunches are desired, the shoots may be left a little longer, or pruned to 
the most plump eye nearest the base; but what is gained in size of 
bunch is generally lost in compactness of bunch, unevenness of berries, 
and bad finish. Bunches of 1 to 2 lbs. weight are quite large enough 
for early Grapes. Remove any loose bark, but avoid the close peeling 
and scraping that injures the rods, and wash them with tepid soapy 
water—3 ozs. of soft soap to a gallon of water. If there has been 
any attack of insects follow with an insecticide, and repeat before the 
Vines are started. Thoroughly cleanse the woodwork of the house, and 
limewash the walls. Remove the surface soil down to the roots, if not 
to the whole extent of the border, for a distance of 3 or 4 feet from the 
stems, and supply fresh loam so as to encourage fresh roots as well as an 
extension of those from the collar, adding about a quart of steamed 
bonemeal and a gallon of wood ashes to every three bushels of loam. 
Keep the house cool, airy, and dry until the time arrives for starting. 
Houses of Ripe Grapes. —Thin-skinned Grapes are more susceptible 
to damp, cold, and climatic changes generally than the thick-skinned. 
This applies equally to Hamburghs as to Muscat of Alexandria, but 
Hamburghs require 5° less heat, 50° being necessary for the good keeping 
of Muscat of Alexandria ; and there must not be any deficiency of 
moisture at the roots, otherwise the Grapes will shrivel. Remove all 
dead and decayed leaves from the Vines where ripe Grapes are hanging, 
and look over the bunches for any shanked or decayed berries, and burn 
them. A temperature of 50° is the most suitable for Muscat of 
Alexandria, but it may fall to 40° where Black Hamburgh is hanging. 
No opportunity should be lost in giving air when the days are fine> 
turning on the heat so as to cause a gentle warmth in the pipes, not so 
much to dry the atmosphere as to insure a circulation of air, which is 
the best safeguard against damp. Turn off the heat at midday or soon 
after, so as to allow the pipes to cool, but not so as to lower the tem¬ 
perature below the night minimum. When the heat falls too low and 
the temperature is raised moisture condenses on the berries, and being 
stagnant the skin of the berries is more or less decomposed, and the 
micro-organisms find easily access to the pulp, or secure the needful 
food elements in the weakened epidermal tissues, and set up speedy 
decay. There is no harm in a low night temperature ; the fault lies in 
not giving air soon enough, so that the heat from the hot-water pipes or 
the sun expands the atmosphere, and the moisture is deposited on the 
cooler surfaces of the berries as well as on the glass. In dull weather, 
especially during fog, it will be necessary to keep a genial warmth in 
the pipes, but the house closed, in which case the moisture will be 
condensed on the glass instead of the Grapes. 
Vines not Ripening the Wood .—Any that are not yet hard and brown 
in the wood should have a temperature of 60° to 65° by artificial means,, 
a little air constantly, and the heat from sun heat may run up to 85° or 
90°, only let there be enough air to insure a circulation. The laterals 
should be reduced by degrees, bringing them down to their principal 
buds, and when there is no danger of starting those, the shoots may be 
shortened to about two leaves above the pruning buds. This will cause 
the latter to plump, and by keeping the house rather warm by day 
with ventilation, and turning off the heat at night with free ventilation, 
the Vines will go to rest. 
Late Grapes .—The thick-skinned Grapes require time to mature 
after they are ripe, though Alicante improves nothing whatever in keep¬ 
ing, and is at its r>est so soon as well ripened, and the same may be said 
of Gros Maroc. Mrs. Pince is the best thick-skinned Grape, and it is 
one of the most difficult to finish, and it is at its best shortly after it is ripe. 
Its great defect, however, is not colouring well up to the shank, and it 
makes no difference whether the bunches are large or small. Started 
early, say in March, the berries set better and the fruit ripens quite up 
to the shank, and when covered with its fine bloom is very taking in 
appearance. Alicante retains its colour well, and as a prelude to Gros 
Colman is a very desirable Grape, as it is good in quality, the vinoua 
flavour being very refreshing, and the earthiness of Gros Colman entirely 
absent, whilst its appearance is unrivalled by any oval Grape unless it. 
be Alnwick Seedling. The magnificence of Gros Colman is not its chief 
merit, and that goes a long way even with table Grapes, and is all- 
important for market. Its beautiful appearance whets the appetite, and 
the flavour is entirely overlooked, as that beside West’s St. Peter’s, less- 
