October 20, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . 
363 
presumptuous in bunch and berry, is incomparably bad, yet when 
started early so as to allow it time to mature, the berries are not only 
superb, but the quality is vastly improved. But its principal value con¬ 
sists in the easiness of its growth ; the bunches are always compact, the 
berries set well; they swell to a good size, and when the Vines are not 
overcropped they colour first-rate. It is far the best in quality when 
grown on the old red sandstone formation, though it doeB well on the 
alluvial silts, as do all the coarse vinous Grapes. For rich vinous quality 
no thick-skinned Grape can vie with West’s St. Peter’s, but it is no use 
where appearance at table is the chief merit in a Grape. Lady Downe’s 
is not only the best keeping Grape, we have had it excellent in June, 
but is unapproached by any late Grape for uniform excellence in 
quality, though only about half as taking in appearance as Gros 
Colman, and not giving nearly as much weight of fruit per Vine or 
space, it retains its richness to the last, simply because it contains more 
■sugar and mostly has a decided “ smack ” of Muscat. In white Grapes 
we have the White Gros Colman, which is less earthy in flavour than the 
■type, and promises to take a high place for appearance sake. Trebbiano 
will not, however, go out of cultivation, for when well done it is an 
enormous counterpart of Muscat of Alexandria in looks, and the flesh is 
firm, crisp, and sweet. This Grape also likes red soils. There must not 
be any deficiency of moisture in the border, and the atmosphere must 
not become stagnant, but have enough warmth, with air, to keep it in 
motion, the temperature not being allowed to fall much below 50° 
until the leaves fall. 
Renovating Vine Borders .—Where the soil is of a suitable nature 
and the cultural treatment proper Vines flourish for an indefinite period, 
but they are mostly planted in artificial borders and the roots confined 
to limited areas. These conditions result in the soil becoming defective 
in aliment if not unfavourable as a rooting medium. Thorough renova¬ 
tion in ordinary cases is desirable, but a partial renewal of the soil, or 
such portion of it as will secure active feeders, is generally attended 
with satisfactory results. Where, therefore, Vines are not in a satis¬ 
factory condition no time should be lost in removing the soil down to 
the roots and picking it from amongst them, so as to displace as much of 
T it as possible with fresh compost, and it is best effected whilst the leaves 
are upon the Vines, but not before they have performed functions to the 
extent of perfecting the buds and wood. In case the border is found 
■very unsatisfactory and the roots few and deep, it will be necessary to 
remove all the soil and renew the whole border, commencing with the 
drainage, which should be clear and 9 to 12 inches deep, with a 3-inch 
layer of fine material on the top, old mortar rubbish freed of pieces of 
wood answering perfectly. There must be a drain under the drainage 
to carry off superfluous water. The soil should consist of the top 2 or 3 
inches of a pasture, where the staple is a good yellow or hazel loam. 
A barrowload of charcoal may be added to every cartload of loam and 
a similar proportion of calcined oystershells, though they are preferably 
crushed, also a bushel of wood ashes and a peck of Thomas’ phosphate 
powder, all well incorporated. Two feet depth of compost is ample, 
and the roots should be laid in the top foot and in layers according to 
their inclination, encouraging those from near and at the collar by 
laying them just beneath the surface, making the whole compact and 
having the soil moderately dry. If the roots are inside and outside one 
part may be done one year and the other the next, without any danger 
of loss of crop. Take care to preserve all the roots practicable, merely 
cutting off broken and paring bruised ends smooth, and to keep them as 
much as possible from the drying influence of the weather whilst the 
operation is in progress. Afford a good watering to settle the soil about 
the roots; if necessary, sprinkle 4 ozs. of steamed bonemeal on every 
square yard, and mulch with about an inch of short manure, and cover 
outside borders with a few inches thickness of leaves with a little litter 
over them. 
Melons. —The supply of fruit from frames and pits heated by 
fermenting materials is about over, yet fairly well-flavoured Melons may 
be had up to November, and it is a notable fact that the scarlet flesh 
have more quality and taste than the green flesh, about two-thirds of 
which are white fleshed. Little Heath and Scarlet Premier are examples 
of rich flesh, the latter being very good for late work, keeping a con¬ 
siderable time, and so continuing the supply to a late period. Any 
fruit yet remaining should be cut with a good portion of stem when 
approaching ripeness, and placed on a shelf in a house with a gentle 
warmth, where they will ripen and be welcome additions to the 
dessert, quite as much from their appearance and aroma as for use. The 
supply of fruit from houses will be continued for some time longer, often 
till Christmas, the later fruit only being now swelling. Damping in the 
morning and again early in the afternoon will be sufficient for these 
plants, and water need only be supplied to the roots once a week, 
unless they are very much restricted, when it will be required oftener. 
Let the foliage have as much benefit as possible of the autumn sun by 
keeping superfluous laterals suppressed, not allowing them to interfere 
with the principal leaves. Keep plants with fruit approaching ripeness 
rather dry at the roots, and withhold water from the atmosphere, and 
maintain a brisk heat of 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day, rising to 85° or 
90° from sun heat, affording a little air at the top of the house con¬ 
stantly, and increasing it whenever the weather is favourable. 
Cucumbers. —Maintain a night temperature of 65° to 70° in mild 
weather, 60° to 65° when the nights are cold, 70° to 75° by day artifici¬ 
ally, advancing to 80°, 85°, or 90° with sun heat. Admit a little air at 
the top of the house whenever the weather is favourable, but avoid cold 
currents ; indeed, it must be done without lowering the temperature or 
drying the air too much, and lose no opportunity of closing early in the 
afternoon on days when a little ventilation has been given in the early 
part of the day. On dull days little moisture will be required, but on 
very fine days the plants may be lightly bedewed overhead, and the 
floors, walls, and paths damped in the morning and afternoon, also when 
much fire heat is used in the evening. Earth the roots as they protrude 
from the hillocks or ridges; supply water as required, not less in tempera¬ 
ture than that of the bed, being careful not to over water, nor allow the 
plants to lack needful supplies of that element and liquid manure, or 
surface dressings washed in. 
The autumn fruiters being in full bearing must not be overcropped, 
but the plants will bear enormously. Cut the fruit directly it 
becomes fit for use, also remove tendrils, male blossoms, and an excess 
of fruit blossom or deformed fruits. Supply a little fresh loam to the 
surface of the beds as often as the roots appear, and let it be warmed 
through before using. Examine the plants at least once a week for the 
removal of bad leaves, and for stopping and cutting away the super¬ 
fluous growths. Horse droppings sprinkled on the beds occasionally 
act as a gentle excitant to the roots, supply nourishment to the soil, 
and ammonia to the atmosphere. Spare no effort to keep the foliage 
clean and healthy, and do not allow accumulations of dirt on the glass. 
Allow the winter fruiters to extend well up the glass before stopping 
them, train the shoots right and left at about 1 foot distance apart, 
crowding being fatal to well developed foliage, and the sturdier the 
plants are grown the better will they be able to withstand the trying 
ordeal of continued dull or prolonged severe weather. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Cyclamen. —Seedlings may be carefully pricked out of the seed 
pan into other pans or shallow boxes until they are large enough for 
small pots. The young plants should be arranged close to the glass in a 
temperature of 55°. Air ought to be given to prevent the young plants 
becoming drawn. If the young plants are large enough for small pots 
keep them plunged after potting to prevent dryness. A temperature 5° 
lower will do for plants in this stage. Larger plants in 3-inch pots may 
be placed into 5-inch ; these should be grown under cool conditions, 
and will if properly treated be useful for early flowering another 
year. These plants will produce a few flowers in spring, but they should 
be removed as they show bloom and the plants encouraged to grow. 
Seed may be sown at once and placed in a temperature of 60° ; in fact, 
the seedlings should be kept in heat during the winter. Excellent plants 
may be produced from seed sown at the present time. These plants can 
readily be brought into bloom as they are required by placing them after 
they once show flowers where a little warmth can be given them. 
The Forcingr House. —Where quantities of flowers are needed, a 
house in which a hotbed can be made should be set apart for forcing 
them. Leaves are now plentiful, and if those of the Oak or Beech are 
gathered and mixed with litter from the stables, the bed will retain heat 
for a long time. Where leaves form the principal part of a hotbed, it 
may be made up at once in the house, but when litter largely pre¬ 
dominates, the material should be thrown together outside and turned 
two or three times before the bed is made. When the bed is made up 
in the house a liberal quantity of air should be admitted to aid fer¬ 
mentation. Azaleas and any other plants that it is necessary to force 
into bloom may be stood on the surface as soon as the material begins 
to heat. Roman Hyacinths come forward rapidly on a bed of this 
description. It is also an excellent place for Bouvardias until the whole 
space is needed for other things. 
Solanums. —Where a stock of these are needed for another year 
introduce a few 7 plants into warmth and force them into growth to yield 
cuttings, which, when large enough, should be rooted, and the young 
plants grown in heat. Seed may also be sown, and the seedlings grown 
in the same way. When raised at once the plants have a long season 
before them in which to grow and set their berries. 
lalllum lanclfollum. —These have done flowering, and the plants 
should be protected from frost until they ripen off naturally. A deep 
frame or a position at the back of a cool fruit house will suit them very 
well. The bulbs must not be kept too dry after the stems have died 
down. 
Fuchsias. —A late batch of these are very useful for conservatory 
decoration, and prove conspicuous in association with early flowering 
Chrysanthemums. The sprays of bloom are also serviceable in a cut 
state ; they are a little heavy, but in large vases they hang very grace¬ 
fully over flowers of a stiff nature. Those that have done flowering may 
be stood outside for a time until the approach of frost, the wood will 
become firm and ripe, and the plants are ready for storing away for the 
winter. 
Tea Roses. —Plants that have been well cared for outside during 
the summer and lately protected from frost in frames or a cool house 
may be introduced into a structure where the temperature will average 
about 50°. A little air should be given, and in bright weather the plants 
syringed twice daily. Under these conditions they will soon start into 
growth, and in due course produce a useful supply of flowers. The 
plants introduced a month ago have commenced to unfold their delicate 
buds, and are useful now that outside flowers are practically over. 
Roses that are to be introduced into the forcing house early in December 
may remain outside until they have been subjected to a few degrees 
of frost. 
Idly of the Valley. —The foliage will have died down from plants 
that were grown inside by the aid of warmth in spring, and then plunged 
in a sunny position outdoors. These will soon come into bloom if they 
