884 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October S7, 189a 
cutting away the parts which have reached the extremities of the trellis 
and become bare of fruitful wood. Those not having the roots restricted 
will require hard pruning at the upper part of the trellis, allowing room 
for the growth of the successional branches; but severe pruning only 
induces stronger and less fruitful growths. Such trees should be lifted, 
and have the roots confined to narrower well-drained borders of firm 
soil. Remove the surface soil down to the roots, pick out the old soil 
from amongst them carefully, and supply a top-dressing of fresh loam 
with some old mortar rubbish intermixed. Ventilate fully at all times, 
except when frost prevails, and at such times heat should only be used 
to exclude it, though the trees will not take any harm unless the weather 
is very severe. 
Succession Houses. —When the leaves have fallen prune the trees and 
well wash them with a soapy solution, using a brush, which will do much 
to dislodge the insects, and after the woodwork and walls have been 
scalded with hot water, keeping it off the trees, the latter may be 
dressed with an insecticide, and the walls limewashed. Complete any root- 
pruning, lifting and laying the roots in fresh compost. Fig trees with 
the roots restricted are more manageable and fruitful than those with 
an unlimited rooting area ; therefore lift, and severely root-prune any 
unfruitful trees, and restrict the roots to moderate-sized borders, making 
the soil firm and employing good loam with a sixth of old mortar rubbish 
and a sixth of road scrapings, good drainage being paramount. 
Late House. —The trees should have the wood cut out that has borne 
fruit and is no longer required, and any trees having a tendency to over¬ 
luxuriance or that cast their fruit instead of swelling off should be 
lifted and have the roots confined to borders of limited extent. When 
the leaves fall the trees must be unloosened from the trellis, and being 
tied together they should be made safe against frost by placing a little 
hay or straw amongst them and covering them with the latter or mats, 
for trees in cool houses suffer nearly as much from frost as those against 
walls outdoors. The roots near the collar are better with a slight 
protection of dry material. 
Peaches and Neetarlnes. — Early Forced Trees. —Where the 
supply of fruit in late April or early in May is had from trees of Royal 
George and Stirling Castle Peaches, with Lord Napier and Stanwick 
Elruge Nectarines, forcing must commence in earnest at the beginning 
of December, the house being closed at the middle of November, but no 
fire heat need be used in the first fortnight beyond that necessary to 
exclude frost. The trees, therefore, must be got into proper order 
without delay, not, however, putting on the lights to make things 
comfortable, as they are better off until the time stated, and there are 
favourable opportunities for attending to the necessary work, though it 
is better done as soon as the trees become leafless. 
Succession Houses. —When the leaves are all down, there not being 
any forcible means taken to secure that end until they part freely from 
the trees, unfasten the latter from the trellis, and prune them ; also 
thoroughly cleanse the house, paint the woodwork and trellis, limewash 
the walls, and after washing the trees with soapy water and following 
with an insecticide, secure them to the trellis, leaving room for the 
branches to swell, as tight-tying is one of the most prolific sources of 
gumming. Clear away the loose surface soil or mulching, pick some of 
the old from amongst the roots, and supply fresh rather stiff loam, with 
a quart of steamed bonemeal to every three bushels, and add about 
two quarts of wood ashes to the same. The advertised fertilisers 
may be used in similar proportions. If the roof lights are not moveable, 
give a thorough supply of water to the inside borders, and do not allow 
them to become dry during the rest season, ventilating fully. It is 
better, however, to remove the roof lights, let the rain cleanse and 
refresh the trees, moisten and enrich the soil through to the drainage. 
Attend to any lifting, or the introduction of fresh trees, as this work and 
root-pruning should be performed before the leaves have dropped, yet 
the wood ripe and the buds plumped. Trees for planting in houses are best 
two or three years trained to walls, and, lifted in the preceding year, 
they transplant with an abundance of fibres, and can be forced very well 
the first year if not started before the new year, not brought on too 
rapidly, and not overcropped. Trees, however, that have been grown 
under glass have the wood better ripened, and are more suitable for 
early forcing. If young trees must be planted, select such as have no 
trace of gum, but are clean in growth, not very strong in the wood, 
shapely and well but not over-furnished with branches. The sooner 
they are planted after they are in a fit condition the better, so that they 
may become somewhat acclimatised. 
Late Houses. —Salwey is sometimes fairly juicy, and not always 
more woolly than fleshy, yet it is only a sorrowful fruit after the juicy 
and rich Gladstone Peach. This seems to be just as good in October as 
in September, and it certainly gets bigger and better with cultivation. 
Cut out non-extension wood that has borne fruit as well as any other 
growths not required, as this lets daylight reach those that are left, and 
nothing is so prejudicial as too much wood in late houses. Any trees 
that are not ripening the wood well will be induced to do so by forming 
a trench about one-third the distance from the stem the trees cover in 
height of trellis and down to the drainage, so as to detach the roots. Do 
not allow the foliage to flag severely, but supply water if necessary 
to the part inside the trench, and let that remain open about a fort¬ 
night, then remove the surface soil down to the roots in the un¬ 
disturbed part; pick out the soil from amongst them, supply fresh 
loam, fill up the trench, make all firm, and give a good watering. The 
trees will push fresh roots, plump the buds, and the blossoms from them 
invariably set well, whilst the fruit is rarely cast in stoning. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Asparag-us. —The tops of these have now in most cases done their 
work, and are quite brown enough to be cut and burnt. Whether mown 
with an old scythe or cut with hook or a knife avoid stubbing them 
down too closely to the ground, a length of 6 inches of stem above the 
soil denoting the whereabouts of, and, it may be, saving many crowne 
from being forked into or trampled upon. Weeds are frequently too 
abundant among Asparagus, especially where no heavy mulching 
material is used. These must be cleared off by hand-weeding, and not 
hoed up or dug in. Select a dry day for this work, and well shake the 
soil from the roots of the weeds, or otherwise far too much of it will 
find its way to the rubbish heap. Seed pods are very abundant, and if 
a few of the strongest growths well furnished with these are hung in a 
dry shed abundance of excellent seed can be rubbed out when wanted 
next March or April. New seed always germinates the most quickly 
and strongly. Forcing of Asparagus may commence now, but the young 
growths obtained in November or very early in December are not nearly 
so good as they would have been had the crowns been allowed a longer 
rest. Only those, therefore, with an unlimited supply of strong old roots 
ought to commence forcing as yet. 
Manuring Asparagus Beds. —Autumn manuring is practised 
with very satisfactory results in many cases, but is far from being 
generally safe or advisable. It may easily do more harm than good. A 
heavy surfacing of half-decayed manure may be beneficial where 
the soil is of a light or non-retentive character, but it has been the means 
of destroying thousands of crowns where the soil and subsoil is of a 
clayey nature. Asparagus, if the roots are not actually exposed, is 
perfectly hardy, but it cannot survive several months together in a cold 
retentive soil. Mulching a bed with decaying manure serves to keep 
the soil unduly moist and cold, the spring finding it in a saturated pasty 
state. Let heavy soils have the benefit of all the frosts, winds, and 
sunshine going, and it will then be found in a comparatively warm 
friable condition next spring. Being undisturbed the rains will pass 
away freely, some running off the surface and still more through the 
drainage holes made by worms, whereas loosened surfaces absorb nearly 
all the rain and snow water that falls. If the beds are manured now 
avoid chopping down the sides, as this is most destructive to the roots. 
Only what may be raked off the surface should be thrown back over the 
manure, the sides being left intact and the paths or alleys undug, many 
active roots invariably being found in the latter. 
Beet. — A severe frost completely spoils any roots of these not 
protected, and no further risks ought, therefore, to be run. In lifting 
do not drag out the roots, but carefully raise with forks, thereby avoid¬ 
ing breaking the tap roots, as these when broken are apt to bleed, a 
loss of colour being the inevitable consequence. The tops should be 
screwed off and not cut, and after clearing them of the worst of the 
soil clinging to them either store the roots in a cool shed or cellar or 
else place in a cone-shaped heap in a cool dry spot where rats and mice 
would not be likely to get at them. They shrivel badly in dry hot 
positions, but will keep well in a cool shed if packed in sand or fine soil, 
crowns outwards, an additional covering of mats or litter being afforded 
during the prevalence of severe frosts. Those stored outside in a heap 
should be covered with dry straw, and then heavily soiled over much as 
Potatoes are sometimes stored. The coarsest roots of the larger 
varieties are not appreciated by good cooks, and these should go to the 
pigs. Turnip-rooted forms keep fairly well, but if roots of a long-rooted 
variety are plentiful use the former first. 
Carrots. —These also ought to be lifted and stored. Raise them 
with forks, throw all the badly cracked roots on one side for horses to 
eat, clear those selected of heavy soil, and cut off the tops an inch away 
from the crowns. They may be stored either in cool sheds, in sand, or 
in heaps outside, and protected as advised in the case of Beet. Late 
sown Carrots have grown rather more strongly than desirable, many of 
the roots being larger than are appreciated by those who like to have 
sweet young roots served whole as a vegetable. These should only be 
drawn as required for use, thinning out being practised, as the smaller 
ones left usually improve in size during the winter. Frosts rarely 
injure late sown Carrots, slugs and grubs being the worst enemies the 
cultivator has to contend with. A light surfacing of wood ashes, or 
failing this soot, the dressing being stirred in with a Dutch hoe, may 
help to keep such pests in check. 
Other Root Crops. —Jerusalem Artichokes are perfectly hardy, 
and keep much the best when left undisturbed where they are grown. 
If severe frosts are anticipated cover a portion of the bed with a good 
thickness of strawy litter, and the roots can then be lifted during the 
coldest weather. The roots of Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted Celery, are 
far from being hardy, and should, therefore, be either heavily banked 
over with soil or else be lifted, have the tops trimmed off, and be then 
stored very much as advised in the case of Beet. Salsafy and Scorzonera 
roots are quite hardy, and also keep much the best in other respects 
when left where they are and dug as wanted for use. A portion of the 
rows being banked up with strawy litter, the roots can be dug during 
the prevalence of the severest frosts. Chicory, on the other hand, is 
not so hardy as desirable, and it is advisable to lift and store the roots, 
crown outwards, much as Carrots are treated. A few dozen of them 
can then be introduced into the Mushroom or other warm quarters, 
where the tops will grow quickly and blanch thoroughly. Treat Parsnips 
exactly a-* advised in the case of Artichokes, it being a great mistake to 
lift and store these. Turnips, especially if rather large, cannot be 
depended upon to pass safely through the winter where they now are, 
