November 3, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
369 
x 
O NE of the difficulties gardeners have to contend with in private 
establishments is the preparation of the manure for the land they 
have to cultivate. Very frequently, in fact generally, they have to 
deal with the litter from the stables and convert it into manure. 
Unfortunately a superabundance of straw is used, and often a large 
proportion of the droppings are removed for the growth of Mush¬ 
rooms. This, then, leaves the cultivator at frequent seasons of the 
year in possession of a large heap of material that is little better than 
straw. This litter is often placed in a hole or some convenient 
position where it remains until it is full ; the consequence is it heats 
perfectly dry, with the result that the nitrogenous matter 
decomposes, and being a very volatile gas it escapes and is lost. 
What, however, is not lost has a fair chance of doing so after it 
passes into the gardener’s hands, unless labour is plentiful and time 
can be devoted to its preparation. 
If mixed manures had to be dealt with the matter would be 
very much simplified ; say, for instance, horse and cow manure. 
The two could be evenly spread. The former, being richer in nitro¬ 
genous matter, ferments rapidly and soon becomes heated, while 
the latter decomposes slowly and gives out very little heat. The 
one assist wonderfully in the decomposition of the other, and if 
placed together in nearly equal quantities prevents too rapid 
fermentation, and consequently loss. We must, however, suppose 
cow manure is not present, for it very seldom is, and the gardener 
has frequently to deal with the stable litter being practically con¬ 
fined to its use. He may, by a little scheming or buying, come 
into possession of some cow manure for various purposes, but that 
does not affect the question we have to deal with. 
The best means when the litter is in the state we have described 
is to arrange for a good supply of water as close to it as possible, so 
that it can be well moistened every morning. By this means only 
can fermentation be kept down and the carbonate of ammonia 
saved. Better still by far, a tank should be arranged close to the 
place in which the litter is deposited, so that the drainings from 
the stables could be pumped over the material. Failing this, 
however, and very rarely this provision is made, the former 
must be resorted to and the litter removed as often as possible to 
the position in which it is prepared for garden use. It is important 
to have a tank in this yard, so that the drainings 'of the heap can 
find its way into it to be frequently returned to the manure during 
the process of fermentation. Very often the manure yard is 
minus of this important provision. A hole, however, can soon be 
made and a tub sunk into it, while the surrounding portion of the 
hole should be puddled with clay. If this is made large enough 
the whole of the drainings of the manure may from time to time 
be returned. It is a decided advantage if the urine of the stables 
is conveyed to a tank and the litter well moistened with it 
before the latter passes finally to the manure yard for further 
preparation. The urine, being the most valuable part of the 
manure, should not be lost; this, as well as water, will be needed to 
prevent the heap rising above 80°. Below this temperature 
fermentation will be slow and safe ; instead of carbonic acid 
being formed and combining with ammonia, decomposition stops 
and organic acids (ulmic and humic acids) are formed, which form 
ulmate and humate of ammonia and compounds of potash and soda ; 
these are soluble but not volatile. Great care, however, is needed, 
No. 645 .—Vol. XXV,, Third Series. 
or the temperature will rise too high ; in fact, it can only be 
kept right after it is thrown into a heap by watchfulness and a 
liberal supply of moisture. 
Fermentation may be rapid or the reverse according to the 
treatment the heap receives. The lighter the manure is thrown 
together the more freely air enters and promotes rapid fer¬ 
mentation. The more compact the heap is made the slower the 
fermentation, consequent on a free access of oxygen being largely 
excluded from the manure. The firmer and moister the heap the less 
likely is it to become too hot. It must not, however, be too moist 
or too firm, or else fermentation will not take place. Once the 
material is sufficiently fermented to place on the land and it is not 
needed for a time, the heap should be so rounded up at the top that 
heavy rains will not wash away the essence of the manure. Very 
often, I am afraid, nearly one-half of the valuable part of the 
manure is carried away by heavy rains, the nitrates being soluble in 
decayed material. If a good tank is provided, and the heap protected 
from as much rain as possible, and the contents of the tank poured 
over the manure before it is wheeled on to the land, a great loss will 
not take place. It is wise when the liquid has been returned to the 
heap to spread it at once, so that the essence of the manure may be 
evenly distributed on the land. 
In large gardens, where there are quantities of short grass from 
the mowings of lawns and refuse from vegetable quarters, the 
decomposition of the litter from the stable is more easily effected. 
Even Cabbage stems, and the straw of Peas and Beans, may be thrown 
into the heap to decay. The last is rather inconvenient, but not 
to be despised, especially where the land is heavy, and besides the 
straw is rich in phosphoric acid. This vegetable refuse soon de¬ 
composes, if carefully mixed through the litter as the building of 
the heap proceeds. It is not always convenient to dig vegetable 
refuse of this nature into the land, but there is not so much actual 
■waste in the growth of many crops when the refuse matter is care¬ 
fully mixed with the manure and returned to the land. The stems 
of Cabbage, Cauliflowers, and other vegetables of a like nature are 
best thrown out when all the vegetable matter has been decomposed. 
There is then very little left but woody fibre, and we do not care 
to return that to the soil. They are generally burnt after leaving 
the manure heap with prunings of various kinds. 
Where a quantity of manure is needed that is rich in nitrate of 
potash wood ashes should be freely mixed with such a manure heap 
as we have described. The wood ashe3 supply carbonate of potash, 
which unites with the nitrogenous matter of che manure, and thu3 
forms nitrate of potash. The same result is effected when kainit 
salts are broken and mixed with manure, say a layer of one and 
then the other. These salts contain “ potassic and magnesic 
sulphates, calcic sulphate and magnesic chloride.” Through the 
decomposition of the manure the sulphate of potash is converted 
into nitrate of potash. 
Gypsum (sulphate of lime) mixed with farmyard manure is 
perhaps more effective than when used alone. But this is not all, 
for it possesses the power of fixing ammonia ; what might pass off 
in a volatile form as carbonate of ammonia would be converted 
into sulphate of ammonia. Gypsum has not only the power of 
fixing ammonia, but of absorbing it from the atmosphere. It 
might advantageously be used for spreading on stable floors. 
When manure has been thoroughly decomposed it is then that 
protection from rain is the most needed. In this state plant food 
is in its most soluble form, and a good deal of it is carried away 
by heavy rains. It is a good plan to throw the manure into a 
ridge-shaped heap, and make the surface moderately smooth, so that 
the water will pass away readily. If time can be found, and the 
manure cannot be used for some time, we prefer to mix it with 
a quantity of fresh litter from the stable. This strawy material 
absorbs the soluble matter, and while it is protected from loss it 
also aids in the decomposition of the litter which gives so much 
trouble. The heap should be soiled over to protect it from rain. 
No. 2301.— Vol. LXXXVII., Old Series. 
