November 3, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
407 
free from grossness, but which appear to be of medium strength accord¬ 
ing to their age and form of growth, being in all cases abundantly 
furnished with fibrous roots. These trees, if carefully removed, are 
sure to do well. It is particularly necessary that large trees should be 
provided with abundant roots, in order that fresh root action may 
quickly take place when removed to new positions. Though trees of any 
age may be selected, and if removed and replanted with care will 
succeed, yet to the majority of planters the younger the trees are the 
better, maidens being usually the best. 
Removing- Trees. —It is customary with some fruit growers to 
obtain trees when young and plant them in nursery quarters, from 
whence they can be easily and promptly transplanted to permanent 
positions when required. There is little or no difficulty then in affording 
proper attention to securing all the fibrous roots possible, and seeing 
that they are not unduly dried by exposure to sun, air, and drying 
winds. Such trees can be earlier planted than stock obtained from a 
nursery, as in the latter case the fall of the leaf must be effected 
before removal can be general. Nursei’ymen are mostly alive to the 
importance of protecting the roots, safely securing the branches from 
injury, and speedy delivery. It therefore rests with the receiver to 
follow up this careful treatment on the arrival of the trees by quickly 
laying them in, in moist ground until the immediate moment for 
planting arrives. Should, however, the roots become unusually dried 
in transit, they must be moistened before either being temporarily laid 
in or finally planted. 
Planting.— It is best that the ground should have been previously 
prepared, and become somewhat consolidated ; also that any manure 
required to enrich it incorporated at the same time. November, as a 
rule, is the best time for planting ; but it may, when trees are at hand, 
be done a short time previously, as well as be deferred to the most 
favourable opportunities later. Weather exercises a great influence on the 
work, and may be such as to prevent it entirely on some soils until spring. 
Advantages of Early Planting. —The chief advantage of plant¬ 
ing early is that the 3oil contains more warmth, therefore a certain 
amount of fresh root action can be secured before the resting period. 
The activity of the sap also in the trees is greater, especially if a few 
green leaves remain upon them. This root action, little though it may 
be, together with the rapid healing up or callusing of the ends of 
shortened roots, has the effect in spring of inducing an early and strong 
growth, which is generally maintained throughout the season. 
Preparing the Trees. —No tree must be planted with injured 
roots. All such should be carefully cut back to firm portions, using a 
sharp knife, so that a clean cut is made. Roots with a vertical tendency 
shorten back closely. Where a number of trees are being planted it 
would be advisable to make a note of the condition of the roots of each 
for guidance in the spring, when top growth will require cutting back 
in proportion for promoting an equal balance between it and the roots. 
Method of Planting. —The first essential is to have the holes wide 
■fnough but not too deep. The soil in the centre should be slightly 
higher than the remaining portions, really forming a convex mound. 
On this firmly place the tree, having in readiness a specially prepared 
compost consisting chiefly of good loam, but a little pulverised lime 
rubbish may be mixed with it, also a fair proportion of wood ashes. 
This material is used to surround the roots, and to aid them in making 
an active start. As far as possible divide the mass of roots, whether few 
or many, into layers, between each of which work the compost with a 
little of the finest of the staple soil. Spread out every root and fibre to 
its fullest extent, and as horizontal as possible, contriving to finish so 
that the upper layer of roots will not be more than 3 inches below the 
surface. Care must also be taken that the bole of the tree is not buried 
deeper than previously. 
Securing the Trees. —At no period of growth do trees require to 
be held more firmly in position than immediately after planting standards 
especially. A strong, firmly fixed stake down each side of the stem, 
fastening the tree to each, will hold it safely in position. Some soft 
material must be wound round the stem to prevent the ligatures, 
which may be of strong flexible cord or copper wire, injuring the bark. 
Watering and Mulching. —Should the weather prove very dry 
at the time of planting it may be necessary to water the trees when 
planted in light soil. This may be left to the judgment of the planter, 
but whether needed or not it is essential that a layer of fresh, short, 
1 ttery manure be spread over the soil in a circle round the stem as far 
as the roots extend. The ground between the trees not occupied with 
roots may, as operations cease upon it, be manured and neatly dug 
over. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. —As growth advances more or less in these plants during the 
winter months, and does no harm provided it is effected by natural 
means, only sufficient artificial heat being employed to sustain the 
plants in health and maintain the progress made, they should be placed 
as near to the glass as possible. This will enable them to make 
the most of every ray of light and sunshine whenever it prevails. 
Though the plants may not perceptibly grow they store essential matter 
in spells of bright weather, and become stouter where due attention is 
given to keep the glass clean, and admitting air when necessary. The 
sturdy plant throws up a well-formed large fruit in due season, but the 
drawn weakly plant, though larger in leaf, furnishes a much smaller 
fruit on a lanky stem at an uncertain and irregular time. Therefore to 
give plants the benefit of clean glass and proximity to it without touch¬ 
ing is to grow with a view to fruit, and to keep them at a considerable 
distance from the glass and crowded, or beneath glass more or less 
opaque through dirt, with its concomitant moister atmosphere, is to 
produce foliage instead of fruit. The beds of fermenting materials 
subside considerably through decomposition, and fresh made up ones 
settle rapidly unless well trodden down. In either case prompt atten¬ 
tion should be given to raising the plants so that they have the full 
benefit of the light, and in so doing take care not to chill or allow 
them to become overheated at the roots. New beds should be made 
where necessary. The best plan is to remove all the plants to a structure 
with the suitable temperature, clear out the old fermenting material, 
supply fresh, and not return the plants until the beds are in a proper 
condition. To take Pine plants from a warm house and keep them in a 
cold place chills them, and returning them to warm beds from cooler 
quarters acts in the opposite direction, sometimes causing them to 
“ bolt”—that is, throw up fruit prematurely. Oak, Beech, and Spanish 
Chestnut leaves are much the best, as they are more durable than others, 
and the heat is consequently milder and lasts longer. Tan, of course, is 
best where it can be easily secured, and about half the quantity suffices, 
but leaves in many cases are procurable for nothing beyond the labour. 
Assorting the Plants .—It is a good practice to assort the plants 
according to their respective requirements lefore winter. If not done 
earlier, it should be attended to without further delay. Fruiting plants 
require the best places to swell off the fruits properly, particularly in this 
season when natural aid is at a minimum. These plants must have a 
night temperature of 65°, and 70° to 75° by artificial means during the 
daytime. Succession plants only require anight temperature of 60°, and 
65° by day, with an advance from sun heat, but not without air, to 70° 
to 75°. Young plants must not be brought forward too quickly, 
because they are not prepared, nor is the winter season an advisable 
time to cause them to make much growth, and they will progress quite 
fast enough and satisfactorily in a temperature of 55° to 60° at night, 
and 60° to 65° in the daytime, above which ventilate freely, taking care 
to avoid chills. Fruiting plants require moisture at all times, therefore 
sprinkle available surfaces regularly when they become dry, and in a light 
house the plants will need sprinkling during bright weather only twice or 
thrice a week. Successional plants and others will require syringing 
occasionally and damping available surfaces where the heat is derived 
solely from hot-water pipes, but where fermenting beds are employed 
almost enough atmospheric moisture will be secured from that source 
without having recourse to the syringe. 
Cucumbers. —To keep the plants in a healthy fruitful condition 
the night temperature should be maintained at 65°, 5° more in mild 
weather and 5° less in the morning when sharp frosty nights occur, 70° 
to 75° in the daytime by artificial means, advancing to 80° and 85° from 
sun heat. Whenever the weather is favourable a little air may be 
admitted at the top of the house, being careful not to lower the tempera¬ 
ture or admit a current of cold air, as that dries and cripples the foliage, 
it being better when the weather is cold to shut off the top heat for an 
hour or two when the sun is powerful than to admit air when the winds 
are sharp. The paths and walls will need damping in the morning and 
afternoon of fine days, but the syringe must not be used to the foliage 
unless the days are exceptionally bright, and then soon after midday. 
The water or liquid manure given to the roots must be of the same tem¬ 
perature as the house, as also must the soil given to the beds. 
Autumn-fruiting plants are now in full bearing, and having plenty 
of stamina in them and not being overcropped, will continue to bear 
good fruit a considerable time longer. It is also necessary to remove the 
fruit as soon as it becomes a useable size, and all deformed fruit when 
seen, as these needlessly weaken the plants. Attend to the plants once 
or twice a week for the removal of bad leaves, stopping irregular and 
cutting out superfluous growths. If mildew appears dust the affected 
parts with flowers of sulphur, or form into a paste with skim milk and 
brush a little on the hot-water pipes ; it acts well against red spider and 
“ white fly,” but aphides must be subdued by fumigations with the best 
tobacco paper or the advertised substances, which are generally safer 
and thoroughly effectual. 
Winter-fruiting plants are by far the most difficult to manage. The 
great thing is to get them well established and furnished with sturdy 
growths and thick leathery leaves, letting the shoots advance well up the 
trellis before stopping them, training the side growths evenly, and not 
more closely than"to allow of the foliage being well exposed to light. 
Stop the side growths after a few good leaves are made, and the growths 
issuing from the wood left will show plenty of fruit, and such may be 
stopped one or two joints beyond it. This will secure foliage for 
accelerating root action and the proper nourishment of the fruit. To 
insure the fruit swelling it is sometimes necessary to have recourse to 
fertilising the female flowers, but allow few or no male blossoms or 
tendrils, removing them as fast as they appear, for they only weaken the 
plants. Add fresh warmed soil to the ridges or hillocks as the roots protrude, 
and be careful not to overvvater, affording a supply only when needed. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Tuberous Begonias. —These were, as usual in most places, left 
in the beds and borders till frosts cut down the tops, and it is to be 
hoped the tubers were not injured also. It is a great mistake to wholly 
clear the latter of soil either now or later on. Enough to fairly hide 
the tubers should be left on each, this keeping some of the fleshy roots 
alive, a stronger and sure growth of shoots resulting next spring accord¬ 
ingly. Expose the Begonias as much as possible to all the sunshine and 
air going ; stages and dry beds in borders in freely ventilated vineries 
being good places for them till the tops are sufficiently dried and 
decayed to admit of their being cleanly separated from the tubers. 
Pack them closely together in shallow boxes. If the tubers have been 
