November 10, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
427 
class certificate. Mr. W. G. Godfrey had a stand of Beauty of 
Exmouth and Duchess of Devonshire. Mr. H. J. Jones secured a first- 
class certificate for Mr. Chas. Blick, a charming pale yellow Japanese. 
Mr. R. Owen also gained certificates for Robert Petfiold and Lucy 
Kendal, both promising incurved varieties. Several others were also 
shown, though these must be referred to next week. 
Fruit was well represented. Messrs. Cutbush & Sons, Highgate 
staged a collection of Apples, as also did Messrs. J. Cheal & Sons and 
Messrs. J. Laing & Sons. Mr. J. Edmond, Bestwood Lodge, Notts ; Mr. 
A. Ocock, Havering Park, Romford ; and Mr. W. Allan, Gunton Park, 
Norwich, were among the prizewinners in the classes for black Grapes ; 
and white Grapes were best shown by Mr. W. Harman, gardener to the 
Earl of Denbigh, Newnham Paddock, Lutterworth. Messrs. Rivers and 
Sons, Sawbridgeworth, also sent a collection of well-coloured Apples. 
Vegetables were also very fine, especially those in competition for 
the prizes offered by Messrs. Sutton & Sons. Mr. J. Gibson, The Oaks, 
Carshaiton, was first with a grand collection ; Mr. R. Lye, Sydmonton 
Court, Newbury, second ; and Mr. C. Waite. Glenhurst, Esher, third. 
Mr. Waite was first, however, for Messrs. Webb & Sons’ prize ; Mr. 
W. Pope, Highclere Castle, second ; and Mr. R. Lye third. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early Forced Vines in Pots. —There must not be any 
further delay in getting the house ready and placing the Vines in 
position. To increase the weight and quality of the Grapes the 
apertures in the pots should be widened and some turfy loam placed 
within easy reach of the roots. This is best effected by erecting 
pedestals of loose bricks for the pots to stand on, and then building 
up against these pedestals turfy loam, in alternate layers with lime 
rubbish, from the bottom to a little above the side apertures in the 
pots. By introducing Oak or Beech leaves into the pit they will 
supply a genial warmth and moisture in the early stages, and rich 
stimulating food towards the close. The heat about the pots must not, 
however, exceed 65° at the start, the leaves being added to and raised 
to the rims of the pots so as to raise the temperature to 70° or 75° by 
the time the Vines are in leaf. Although it is necessary to have che 
soil moderately moist, an excess of water is undesirable in the early 
stages, as it is injurious to the fibres ; merely keep the soil moist until 
the Vines start into leaf, increasing the supply as the foliage unfolds. 
The canes should be placed in a horizontal position to insure the buds 
breaking evenly, damping the Vines and house two or three times a day, 
and maintaining a temperature of 55°, and 65° on fine days. 
Early Planted-out Vines. —When young and vigorous Vines have to 
be started for the first time to afford ripe Grapes at the end of April or 
early in May, the house must be closed by the middle of the month, for 
they do not, as a rule, “ break ” so quickly as Vines that have been 
forced for a number of years. The Vines will need to be brought into 
a horizontal position and be well syringed with tepid water, or about 
10° warmer than the house, two or three times a day. The temperature 
of the house may average 50° at night, 55° by day, and 65° on bright 
days. Older Vines, or those that have previously been forced, need not 
be started until the beginning of December. 
E[ouses Cleared of \Grapes. —When the Vines are leafless and the 
Grapes cut attend to the pruning without delay, for nothing contributes 
more to a good break than an early and complete period of rest. Vines 
in good condition, having stout short-jointed wood thoroughly ripened, 
may safely be pruned to a couple of buds. The latter, however, are not 
always sufficiently developed at the base of the annual growths to give 
as large bunches as desired, and in that case the laterals may be left a 
little longer, say one or two more buds. It is necessary that a plump, 
round (not large and flat), well-developed bud on stout, hard, thoroughly 
ripe wood be selected for pruning to, as such usually produces a close 
compact bunch of well-set berries. Well-ripened wood is paramount 
for the production of Grapes, but the basal buds are often small, and 
this arises from a number of causes ; sometimes from overcropping, at 
others through overcrowding, frequently from excessive vigour, and 
oftentimes from weakness. The result is small bunches, or none at 
all, when hard and fast lines of pruning are practised. Pruners must 
therefore exercise judgment, avoiding pointed buds, as they are not 
usually productive of bunches. Wash the house thoroughly, cleansing 
the glass and woodwork. Remove all the loose bark on the Vines, but 
avoid injuring the rods by needless peeling and scraping. Wash the 
Vines with tepid soapy water, 3 ozs. of softsoap to a gallon of water, 
using a brush effectively, yet with care and judgment, so as to reach 
and dislodge any hybernating pests. After an efficient washing follow 
with an insecticide. Those advertised answer well if care is taken to 
follow the instructions. Remove the remains of the mulching, also the 
surface material down to the roots, especially near the collar, and supply 
a top-dressing of fresh turfy loam chopped moderately small, and to a 
barrowload (about 3 bushels) add a quart each of steamed bonemeal 
and soot, and half a peck of wood ashes, incorporating thoroughly. Do 
not employ more of the mixture than suffices to cover the roots a couple 
of inches. This will encourage surface roofs, and when the.-e are active 
and the Vines in full leaf they can be fed to any extent by top-dressings 
and liquid applications. Where the houses must be used for plants 
they should be kept cool, not exceeding 40° to 45°, ventilating freely 
above that temperature. 
Houses of Thin-skinned Grapes. — The soil and atmosphere have 
been saturated by the recent heavy and continued falls of rain, and 
these havecaused Grapes, particularly Black Hamburghs, which have been 
ripe since August, to damp considerably in spite of free ventilation and a 
gentle warmth in the hot-water pipes. The Vines that ripened their 
crops in September are still in foliage, and will bear more moisture at 
the roots and in the atmosphere than those that have ha i the Grapes ripe 
since August ; indeed, a moderate atmospheric moisture is necessary to 
prevent undue evaporation and the shrinking of the Grapes. A slight 
warmth in the hot-water pipes will be required almost constantly to main¬ 
tain an equable temperature, but this must not be too high, or it will so 
dry the atmosphere as to cause the Grapes to shrivel prematurely. A 
temperature of 40° to 45° at night and 50° by day will be sufficient, 
ventilating freely and early in bright weather, so as to prevent moisture 
being condensed on the berries. Outside borders should be covered with 
tarpaulin or lights to throw off heavy rains, and if inside borders are 
given a covering of dry straw it will prevent its cracking and keep down 
moisture considerably, but the point is ventilation and a drip-proof roof. 
Late Grapes not Finishing Well. —This usually arises from three 
primary causes — namely, starting the Vines too late, and not 
accelerating thorough growth during the spring and errly summer 
months, so as to give the Grapes the full benefit of the summer sun to 
swell and ripen. Overcropping, too, not only prejudices the current 
crop, but militates considerably against the succeeding year’s bearing 
of the Vines. A bad condition of the roots is, however, the most 
disastrous of all, for improper food is attended with many evils, and 
these hinder the perfection of the crop. If the defect is due to over¬ 
cropping, relief should be sought by cutting a portion of the crop at the 
earliest convenience, and though nothing will be gained by pushing 
the fire now the temperature should be maintained at 60° to 65°, with 
10° to 15° advance from sun heat, so as to secure the thorough ripening 
of the wood, admitting air freely when the weather is favourable, and 
leaving a little on constantly. Where the cause can be traced to 
imperfect drainage or bad borders no time should he lost after the wood 
becomes sufficiently ripened, or when the leaves give indication of 
falling, in getting out the old soil, rectifying the drainage, and relaying 
the roots in fresh compost. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Kidney Beans. —These must have ample room and plenty of heat. 
If those in heated pits are kept staked upright and watered somewhat 
sparingly, especially if there is any old heating material underneath, 
several good gatherings should be available during November. If there 
are any bottom heat pipes let the Beans have the benefit of these ; but 
bottom heat can be dispensed if the top heat never falls much 
below 60°. December supplies are best had from pot plants in a light 
forcing house, the first batch being already growing strongly. More 
new seed of either Osborne’s Forcing, Sion House, or Ne Pius Ultra 
should now be sown, giving the preference to either 8-inch or 9-inch 
pots. Fill the pots to within 2 inches of the top of the rims with 
moderately good loamy soil, and sow about nine seeds in each, cover with 
another inch of soil, filling the pots up in the first instance being a 
better plan than allowing space for top-dressings later on. The seed germi¬ 
nates most quickly when the pots are set direct on hot-water pipes, taking 
care to shift the plants to lighter quarters before they become badly 
drawn. Six plants are enough to leave in each pot, these being duly 
supported with Birch spray or stakes and strips of matting. Not less 
than three dozen pots should constitute a batch, and the plants must be 
pushed along sharply to have them in full bearing at Chrisrmas. 
Seakale. —The Lily White form of Seakale is a decided improvement 
on the old variety in all respects other than hardiness. It is liable to 
be badly injured by severe fros's, large numbers of crowns being 
destroyed last winter. Being forewarned there ought to be no risks 
run. All the leaves can now be cleared away, and a few score or hun¬ 
dred crowns should be lifted and stored in moist soil ready for forcing, 
where they can be protected from severe frosts. The rest of the Lily 
White should then be heavily moulded over, or else covered with strawy 
litter. It is also advisable to take similar precautions in the case of 
the hardier form, as then roots can be lifted for forcing purposes when¬ 
ever required. Forcing Seakale in the open ground with the aid of 
pots and manure is a very slow process, though it answers well if pro¬ 
perly carried out. Not less than six pots should be covered at one 
time, and enough manure and leaves placed over them to get up 
a good heat, a close look-out being kept against injurious over¬ 
heating. It is the old roots or clumps that are forced iu this way, 
strong one-year-old or two-year-old roots being lifted and forced in 
either Mushroom houses or pits. They may have their thongs roughly 
shortened, the best of what are cut away being saved and stored in 
sand or soil for propagating purposes, and the trimmed roots be then 
packed together somewhat closely in boxes, pots, or beds of fairly rich 
soil. If either boxes or pots are used, and these set on or near to hot- 
water pipes in forcing houses, care must be taken to keep the soil 
uniformly moist, and also to exclude all light from the crowns. Seakale 
grows less slowly in Mushroom houses, but being in the dark the 
blanching is most perfect. In a forcing house or plant stove, the pots 
being kept either on or very close to the hot-water pipes, it ought to be 
possible to cut Seakale in about three weeks. 
