January 10, 1895. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
27 
which had not been disturbed for twenty years that were treated 
as described, even while Grapes were hanging on them, and first 
prizes have been won with Grapes from these Vines several years 
in succession at the leading exhibitions in the country.” 
To those remarks of Mr. Craven, I may add the rods were 
18 feet in length when the lifting was done, and the border inside 
the house. A light shading with limewash and syringing prevented 
the ^leaves flagging, fresh root-action thus commencing at once. 
The border is now 9 feet wide, with an addition of 3 feet this 
season. We next discoursed on the subject of late summer growth. 
Mr. Craven thought this should not be encouraged except where 
Grapes, through force of circumstances, are not ripe. From the 
end of August to the middle of September all growth, he said, 
should be finally suppressed and gradually shortened back as the 
wood gives indication of ripening. Then roots also ripen and are 
preserved throughout the winter ready for action in the spring. 
A most important point. 
Mr. Craven thinks correspondents who often advise pruning to 
several eyes from the main stem lose sight of the question whether 
the Vines or borders are capable of finishing such extra large 
bunches as are then likely to be produced. By this practice the 
Vines get unsightly. The nearer the bud is left to the main rod 
at pruning time the better the supply of sap to the lateral. It 
does not circulate so well up old knotted spurs. Under proper 
management a good bud is generally found at the base of each 
lateral, the bunches from such buds being compact and well finished. 
Mr. Craven went on to say, ‘‘ Denuding Vines of bark at clean¬ 
ing time is an unnatural practice, and detrimental, as may be 
observed in the difference of those so peeled and others more 
rationally treated. The rods can be cleansed by washing them 
with fairly strong soapy water, syringing it off shortly afterwards. 
Cutting out growth wholesale is a barbarous practice, and will 
cripple the best of Vines in time.” The last question related to 
red spider, and for this sponging with moderately strong soapy 
water in which a little sulphur had been mixed was recommended, 
sulphuring and heating the pipes being too parching, and syringing 
marking the fruit. 
In conclusion, I would say that the above remarks embody the 
practice which has made the Allerton Priory Grapes famous. Many 
would say that perhaps the Vines are not heavily cropped, but I can 
answer that they bear abundant crops, and trust that this record of 
Mr. Craven’s good work and methods may be interesting and 
useful to some readers of his “auld freen,” the Journal of 
Horticulture. —R. P. R. 
THE FLORISTS’ TULIP. 
[By James W. Bentley, Hon. Secretary to the Koyal National Tulip Society.] 
Chapter IV. 
(^Continued from x)age 557.) 
The glass lights are placed closely together on the framework 
above the beds immediately after planting. They are securely 
tied down to the rails on which they rest ; if this precaution is 
neglected they will probably be found blown off and wrecked 
during windy weather. The sides and ends of the beds are left 
completely open and unprotected until all the plants are out of the 
ground, which is generally about the beginning of March. From 
this time more care is necessary if the bloom is to be in good 
condition. 
As the plants grow the guard leaves of the foliage fall back, and 
leave a hollow in the middle of the plant, from which in due time 
the bud rises. Rain and drip are very likely to fall into this 
hollow, which is sufficiently watertight to hold all that it can 
contain for a long time, and so a cup of cold water is formed in 
the heart of the plant, and at the bottom of the cup is the young 
bud. The constant presence of the water is bad enough, but when 
frost comes the water freezes, and the tip of the tender young bud 
becomes frozen too, and permanently crippled in some way or other. 
The injury to the bud may not be apparent for some time ; it may 
rise clear of the foliage, and look perfectly right, but as it begins 
to increase in size and show its colours the character of the mischief 
done becomes visible. In some varieties the tops of the three 
outer petals remain perfectly green, the power of expansion 
observable in the rest of the petal is paralysed in the green tips, 
and the flower is rendered unsightly and worthless ; in others there 
is no absolute disfigurement of this kind, but the growth of the 
three outer petals is arrested, and they remain dwarfs, whilst the 
three inner ones that have been protected somewhat keep growing, 
and a most ugly appearance is produced. 
The glass coverings to the beds prevent to a great extent water 
lodging in the heart of the plants, but in spite of it many will be 
found in very wet weather full of water. The beds should be 
looked over at frequent intervals, and this water removed. It can 
be drained away by gently separating the leaves with the hands, or 
blown out by means of a glass tube. 
On frosty nights, if the frost be at all severe, the beds should 
be further protected by having the sides covered with mats or 
stout canvas. I use canvas made of jute, about 45 inches wide, and 
wrap it all round the outsides of my beds ; the posts which support 
the framework carrying the lights support the canvas in a vertical 
position, and being all in one piece the canvas is soon put round, 
and the collection made snug for the night. No covering is put on 
the glass lights, and the open space between the two beds is left 
unprotected also. 
In very stormy weather, or when the bitter east wind roars 
through the land for many days together, the canvas screen is kept 
up on two or three sides both night and day. The effects of con¬ 
tinued wind on the tender green foliage are cruelly severe. The 
succulent leaves, withered and broken, become unable to perform 
their functions, much to the detriment of both flower and bulb. 
In such weather the canvas may be kept up on two or three sides 
for days together ; the glass is allowing the plants to have both 
light and what sun heat there may be, and abundance of air 
reaches them. 
When the plants are all well up it is a good plan to stir the surface 
of the beds between the rows with a stick of hard wood, or a dull 
pointed iron skewer, taking great care not to injure any of the 
leaves or stems. Plants that are going to bloom are easily dis¬ 
tinguished from non-bloomers soon after appearing through the 
soil ; the former show two or more leaves, while the latter send up 
one leaf only, and are technically known as loiclows. 
If the morning prove sunny after a severely frosty night, the 
canvas should be kept up for a while, as frozen plants suffer much 
injury when exposed at once to the sun, and should be allowed to 
thaw gradually in the shade. 
As the flower stems rise more care will have to be taken to 
protect from strong winds, as the buds are easily damaged by being 
knocked against each other when swayed roughly about. Late 
April or early May frosts must be specially guarded against by the 
protective means before mentioned ; if they are severe enough to 
bow down the tender green heads mischief to the marking is 
almost certain to ensue, and in all probability the quest for 
“ good feathers ” at blooming time will be a vain one. 
In the latter part of April or the early days of May the 
enthusiastic grower begins to see the first fruits of his labours. The 
buds commence to alter in shape and size and show signs of colour 
and marking. Every day his experienced eye detects fresh beauties 
and probably fresh disappointments. Now he will find out whether 
his culture and care have been good, and if reassured on this point 
each day will bring a succession of new delights, and for a few 
weeks he will be unfit to associate with the ordinary varieties of 
his species, to whose dull minds his outpourings in praise of his 
“ feathered Paxton ” or his “ flamed Talisman ” will seem like the 
ravings of Bedlam. 
As the plants come into bloom they must be protected from the 
direct rays of the sun, which is easily done by covering the glass 
lights with thin calico. This calico once on may remain as long 
as the plants are in flower. If the beds are in a situation very 
much exposed to the sun it may also be necessary to put up a 
screen of similar calico on the outside of the beds. Direct 
sunlight and heat cause many varieties to flush, that is the petals 
become suffused with the marking colour, and all distinctive 
marking is lost. They also cause the anthers of some varieties to 
become stained, and shorten the life of the flowers considerably. 
Strong winds must, of course, be guarded against at blooming 
time by the usual canvas or calico screens at the sides of the beds. 
Tulips grown and protected in the manner described, especially 
if the soil be of a retentive nature, need little watering. The roots 
are deep below the surface, and even if the top covering soil for 
2 or 3 inches be dry deeper down the bed is most likely to be damp 
enough. If, however, it is considered that the Tulips need water, 
rain water should be used, and it should be carefully given, by 
being poured gently from a watering can, without a rose on the 
spout, held almost close to the ground, so as to avoid wetting the 
plants. To be of much use a considerable amount must be given, 
a mere wetting of the surface of the bed being of no benefit to the 
deep seated roots. About the middle of April a watering with weak 
old liquid manure may be given with advantage if the plants seem to 
be short of robustness, but if the growth is strong and vigorous it 
will be well to withhold it. All watering should be done preferably 
in the evening, when the weather is mild and the sky cloudy. 
It may be well now to recapitulate the advantages of the glass 
light method of protection over the older method, which is still in 
use by some growers. The rain is kept off and the drip falls clear 
of the beds, the dryness of the foliage and soil in early spring is 
assured, and the evil effects of frost thereby minimised ; all danger 
to the plants and buds by hailstones is entirely avoided, and light 
