January 17,1155. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
61 
washed into the soil fast enough. Strawberries require phosphoric acid, 
potash or soda, and nitrogen, therefore the manure should consist of 
bone superphosphate five parts, sulphate ot potash three parts, and 
nitrate ot soda two parts, mixed, taking care to have the nitrate finely 
powdered. Noble is an excellent variety for introducing now to fruit 
in April, also Auguste Nicaise, the latter being the brighter fruit. 
Royal Sovereign is a finer Strawberry than either for quality, and 
Scarlet Queen is esteemed in some places for its excellent flavour. 
President, Sir Joseph Paxton, and Sir Charles Napier may also be 
introduced, and the very desirable, but seldom forced, variety Lucas. 
To maintain the succession of fruit unbroken plants of La Grosse Sucr4e 
and Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury must also be introduced at the same 
time. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Preparing: for Forcing:. —Forced vegetables are always appre¬ 
ciated, and must be forthcoming in considerable numbers in many 
places. Some few can be most surely and easily had with the aid of 
houses and fire heat; but a good stock of pits and frames, as well as an 
abundant supply of hotbed material, is indispensable, or at all events of 
the greatest service. A large heap of leaves ought, where possible, to 
have been collected ready for mixing with and moderating the more 
violently heating stable manure. If the latter alone has to be used 
then it must be thrown together, and remain till the heap is quite hot 
in the centre, when it should be turned inside out and once more 
allowed to become hot, this being repeated a third time with a view 
of dissipating all rankness. Never allow the heap to attain what may 
be termed a “ white ” heat in the centre, as this quite spoils the 
material for either hotbeds or manuiial purposes ; but turn the 
heaps before overheating takes place, also gently watering any dry 
portions of the manure that may be met with. When leaves are to be 
largely mixed with the manure the latter need not be so long in prepa¬ 
ration, and if the mixture is thrown into a large heap for a few days 
fermentation will commence, and a gentle heat be observable directly 
the hotbeds are formed. Peat moss litter by itself heats somewhat 
violently, always supposing it is not allowed to become very wet. It 
can, after careful preparation, be used alone, but is more effective mixed 
with three times its bulk in leaves. 
Solis for Hotbeds. —Those who force vegetables ought always to 
prepare an ample supply of soil for the purpose. A rich compost is not 
desirable; Sandy soil suits Carrots, Potatoes, and Radishes admirably, 
a little fresh loam being added for Kidney Beans, Turnips, Peas, and 
Cauliflowers. Sifted material from a heap of old potting soil, fine loam 
from the stacked heap, and ashes from burnt vegetable refuse make a 
mixture that is of the greatest value for seed boxes and beds. 
Carrots and Radishes.— These cannot well be forthcoming too 
soon, and a good sized frame or two or three lights in a pit might be made 
ready for sowing at once. Form a hotbed 3 feet in depth in the front, 
and 6 inches higher at the back, and make it somewhat firm, a lasting 
rather than a strong heat being most desirable. Place enough short 
manure on this to raise the soil well up to the glass, and cover with 
0 inches of the fine soil recommended. Close the lights, mat over till 
the heat has risen, and directly it is seen there is not much likelihood of 
overheating taking place sow the seeds. Form shallow drills with the 
■edge of a short measuring red 8 inches apart for the Carrots, 
and between these draw other drills for Radish seeds. Should the soil 
be somewhat dry, give a gentle watering after the drills are opened 
rather than after the seeds are sown and covered. Sow either Parisian 
Forcing, Early Horn, or Nantes Horn Carrot thinly, and either the 
Forcing Turnip-rooted, Wood’s Frame and French Breakfast Radishes, 
or some of each may be sown very thinly, as Radishes fail to form roots 
quickly if at all crowded. Cover with fine soil, keep close, and protect 
till the Radishes appear, after which admit all the light possible, and 
give a little air during warm days. 
Potatoes. —For these deeper frames and more head room in pits are 
required. Form the hotbed as advised in the case of Carrots, and cover 
with 9 inches of soil. The early short-topped Ashleafs, Sharpe’s Victor, 
and such like varieties are most suitable forcing, and medium sized 
tubers ought to be first started in a moist heat or forcing house, planting 
them with the strong primary sprout well advanced. When the soil is 
warmed through, open drills 15 inches apart and G inches deep with the 
hand, and dispose the sets from G inches to 8 inches apart. Partially 
mould over at first, just covering the sprout. Hard forcing should 
not be attempted, and dryness at the roots ought to be guarded against. 
Potatoes may also be gently forced in pots and boxes. Pots 8 inches in 
diameter or a size larger are suitable for the front stages and back 
shelves of newly started vineries and Peach houses, while boxes 9 inches 
in depth and the same in width answer well for standing on borders of 
the same class of houses. Place one fairly large previously sprouted 
tuber rather deeply in each pot, and allow room for a top-dressing to be 
given by the time the growth reaches the level of the rim. In the 
narrow boxes place a single row of tubers G inches apart, and treat 
similarly to those in pots. A sprinkling of superphosphate of lime, and 
either soot at the same time or nitrate of soda a month later, may well 
be added to the light loamy soil used for Potatoes in pots and boxes. 
Keep the soil uniformly moist, water being given more freely after the 
haulm has become strong. 
Forcing- Xicttuces. —Some of the best Lettuces of the season may 
easily be had in April with the aid of a mild hotbed and frames or pits. 
Early Paris Market, Golden Queen, and Commodore Nutt Cabbage 
Lettuces all force admirably, and when cut are so crisp and as to require 
careful handling and packing. Sow in pans and place in brisk heat 
to germinate. Before the seedlings become drawn and weakly place 
them on a shelf near the glass in an intermediate temperature, where 
they will continue to make good progress. If sown thinly there will be 
no necessity to prick them out temporarily, but they may be dibbled in 
where they are to grow when large enough to handle. Prepare a firm, 
mild hotbed, on this set a shallow frame, and three parts fill this with a 
good loamy compost. When well warmed through, prick out the 
Lettuce 5 inches apart, and give a gentle watering. Keep somewhat 
close at first, ventilating more freely when the plants are growing 
strongly. If the soil is rather poor sprinkle a light dressing of nitrate 
of soda or other quick acting nitrogenous manure among, but not over, 
the plants, and water in. When the plants touch each other all round, 
one-half should be cut out for immediate use, and the rest, if kept moist 
at the roots, will then attain their full size and heart beautifully. 
Young Lettuce leaves mixed with well blanched Chicory and Mustard 
and Cress form a presentable salad. Sow seed of Paris White Cos in 
boxes or pans somewhat thickly every week or so, and place in gentle 
heat or on a mild hotbed to germinate, afterwards transferring to 
shelves in gentle heat. The plants, when about 4 inches high, may be 
cut over for salad purposes, much as if they were so much Mustard and 
Cress. 
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BBE-KE)EPBR. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
The Weather. 
Since the beginning of the year the weather has been of a very 
wintry nature. On the morning of the 10th the thermometer 
stood at 5°, and on that of the 11th 10° below freezing point. 
The barometer has been steady for some time at 29-50°, but is 
falling with signs of a change, which will be welcomed by most 
people. 
Foul Brood. 
The question of foul brood has been much discussed of late, 
and the Grovernment have been urged to take steps to have an Act 
passed for its suppression. The object to rid the country of the 
disease is a laudable one, but we cannot disguise the fact that the 
same individuals who are so clamorous for Government inter¬ 
ference have shared not a little in speading the disease. They 
have condemned straw hives, and yet they were the only ones they 
publicly demonstrated and manipulated with at their exhibitions, 
every one of which I attended, saw foul broody combs from them 
cast in the fields, and the bees from neighbouring apiaries working 
on them. 
As bad, too, was the practice of keeping bees shut in their hives 
during the whole time of the shows, which lasted about a week. I 
have several letters in my possession from influential gentlemen 
complaining of “ the cruel practice.” A great many gentlemen are 
encouraging their gardeners to keep bees, but they would probably 
resent any inspection of their grounds. I certainly should resist any 
interference with my hives between the months of September and 
May, on the assumption that robbing might be induced and bees and 
brood chilled to death. During the other portion of the year loss 
of honey would accrue in fine weather. Nor is that all ; no stranger 
would manipulate my hives to my satisfaction. Should I have to 
submit to ruined hives ? How are hives to be inspected ? They 
cannot be diagnosed like diseased animals. 
I can see the force of any person who may think himself 
aggrieved at a neighbour's supposed affected hive applying to 
the Court for an inspection to be made, at the same time lodging 
a deposit to cover all damages and expenses if no disease be 
present. The question is one of great importance to the country 
and to bee-keepers, and it is to be hoped that they, as a body, will 
be listened to, and that their opinions will have the consideration 
they deserve.—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
ENEMIES OF BEES. 
During the winter and early spring stocks of bees in whatever 
hives they are placed should be carefully watched to see that they 
are not molested in any way. The chief culprits are mice, and the 
blue tit (Parus coeruleus), and the great tit (Parus major), and 
these where numerous, if not destroyed, will do a great amount of 
mischief in a short time. If mice once gain an entrance to a hive 
and are not disturbed, they will soon destroy the cornbs and con¬ 
sume all the stores, the bees eventually dying through starvation. 
I have on several occasions seen strong stocks in straw skeps in 
cottage gardens destroyed from this cause. .v j. 
The tits do not enter the hives but waylay any stray bees that 
may from any cause have ventured outside. If the bees do not 
come out of their own free will, the birds endeavour to entice them 
out, by going from one hive to the other, alighting on the floor 
