66 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
January 24, 1895. 
true circular shape can readily be obtained by hammering a little 
here and there. 
A good coating of moss should next be fastened in the frame, 
green carpet thread or wire answer equally well for this purpose. On 
one side the moss may be left with a rather flat surface, and on the 
other full and rounding. Should a large wreath be required, i e., 
one 3 feet or upwards in diameter, it is a good plan to use two 
rings, and place one inside the other an inch or two apart, fastening 
them together by means of wood bound on at intervals, and thin 
wire interwoven all round ; a firm circular base is then obtained, 
which when formed into a wreath will not lose its shape when 
handled. Several large wreaths sent out by florists which have 
come under my notice were, to my mind, far too “ shaky ” in 
this respect, and the only advantage that could be claimed for 
them was that they were somewhat lighter in weight than 
others of the same size made substantial enough to retain their 
proper form. 
The next matter requiring attention will be the wiring of the 
flowers, but before doing this it will be necessary to settle what 
method of fastening them on the foundation shall be adopted. 
Some wreath makers bind them on with wire, and practically 
finish each part as they proceed ; others bind on a fringe of Fern, 
and fasten the flowers by thrusting the mounting wires through 
the moss, and then turning the ends and pushing them into the 
moss again. As far as appearance goes equally good results may 
be obtained by either method, but as the latter is the most 
expeditious way of doing the work I prefer it, notwithstanding the 
fact that some object to it on the score that the flowers sometimes 
fall out of position. This, however, ii more imaginary than real, 
and only occurs when the work has been improperly done. Should 
it be decided to fix the flowers on the framework in the way I have 
just described, they must be mounted on rather stout wires of good 
length. 
When making very large wreaths it is a good plan to wire each 
flower separately, then make them into little bunches before 
securing them to the stout wire. To make a good wreath built up 
well in the centre abundance of flowers are required, for although 
it is essential that a light surface be obtained, this should not 
be secured by arranging the flowers so thinly that the wires 
and moss are visible between them. Wreaths which sometimes 
look well at first sight will not bear close inspection by reason 
of this defect. 
The lightness of surface so desirable ought to be obtained by 
employing comparatively heavy flowers for a groundwork, and 
dotting them, so as to form an upper surface, with lighter ones. 
Chrysanthemums, Camellias, Tulips, Eucharises, Gardenias and 
Callas are all excellent for groundwork, and Koman Hyacinths, 
Lily of the Yalley, Jasmines, Spiraea japouica, Freesias, Marguerites, 
and numerous species and varieties of Orchids, as well as many 
other flowers when in season, are admirably adapted for giving 
lightness. Some flowers, by reason of the boldness of their outline, 
make beautiful wreaths without the admixture of other flowers. 
Callas and Lilium Harris! rank among the best for this purpose. 
Violets are also in much demand, sometimes because of their 
delightful perfume, at others because they were the favourite 
flower of the departed ones ; but from an artistic point of view 
wreaths made entirely of them do not compare favourably with 
others made from the various kinds of pure, rich, white flowers. 
Some wreath makers, in my opinion, make the mistake of 
using too much greenery on the surface. A delicate green Fern 
frond here and there enhances the beauty of the whiteness around, 
but the bulk of the greenery ought to be employed as a fringe. 
When Fern fronds are scarce the use of some of the lightest forms 
of Cupressus Lawsoniana will help to economise without detri¬ 
ment to the general effect. 
In packing wreaths for long journeys stout boxes ought to be 
used, and these large enough to admit of the wreaths being placed 
in the bottom without crushing the extremities of flowers or 
Fern. To secure in position, two strings should be passed under 
the flowers, tied to the foundation, then drawn through holes 
bored in the bottom of the box, and tied on the outside. It is 
also advisable to have printed or written on the lid, “ Please cut 
the string at the bottom of the box (on the outside) before taking 
out the wreath.” 
During frosty weather boxes containing wreaths should be 
lined with cotton wool and tissue paper. The lids must also be 
lined inside with the same materials, held in position by means of 
tacks, then if the paper forming the inner lining of the box is 
drawn slightly over the outer edges of it, when the lid is placed on 
and secured with string the whole of the lining will be held in 
position without resting on or disfiguring the enclosed flowers. 
—H. D. 
FORWARDING THE WORK OF SPRING. 
Whether gardens are large or small each season brings with 
it its own particular work. We can nevertheless by looking ahead 
and making the most of the time and labour at disposal forward con¬ 
siderably the work of spring. When the weather is showery at this 
season, the men waste a great amount of time in running backwards 
and forwards in sheltering from the rain, and to all appearances 
enjoy it, indeed some of them would rather get wet than be 
closely employed in washing and cleaning the houses and sheds. 
Yet this work must be done, and it should be done now. With 
clean houses and clean plants we look forward for a good start when 
the growing season arrives. The present is also a good time to repair 
broken trellises instead of later in the season, or to replace them 
with new ones if necessary. If the timber is cut to the right sizes 
labourers can make trellises as well as joiners, often in less time and 
certainly at a cheaper rate. If the trellises are to be used in warm 
moist houses dry material should be used, to be well painted with 
red lead and oil as they are put together, then coated with other 
colours according to fancy. For many purposes painting is 
unnecessary. Sheds and the men’s room should be thoroughly 
cleaned, when they will be presentable for twelve months. 
In other departments tools can be looked over, repaired, 
cleaned, painted, and those worn out replaced by new ones. All 
should be in readiness for use when needed in the spring. Watering 
cans and barrows also come under this head, and when repaired 
should be protected by a coat of paint. There is generally time 
and opportunity for doing work of this nature where a keen desire 
exists to have all things in order. Seed and cutting boxes should 
be ready for use to prevent delay when that is most dangerous. 
When all is in readiness work at the busy season proceeds quickly. 
Stakes are often crowded away in a confused mass, and instead of 
repointing, sorting, and tying them in bundles of various sizes they 
have to be sorted when needed : others also have too often to 
be sent for when urgently wanted for Carnations, Chrysanthemums, 
and a host of other plants. This is a mistake, and all possible 
provision for the season should be made now. A few might easily 
be pointed by each man in the morning and perhaps again at night 
before it is quite light enough to commence the ordinary indoor 
work, or after it is too dark in the afternoon. The stakes soon 
dry if the pointed end is inserted in a pot of sand, and should then 
be tied into bundles weekly. An adequate supply of labels and 
pegs must also be prepared. 
Charcoal can be sorted in sizes ready for use, all pots washed 
and stored away ; crocks, too, for all important work should be 
washed. If a little more attention was paid to this matter we 
should have fewer water-logged plants ; use dirty crocks and the 
drainage soon becomes choked. The crocks can be sorted by pass¬ 
ing them through sieves of various sizes, then, when the potting 
season arrives, the labour in draining the pots is reduced to a 
minimum. Peat can be pulled ready for use as needed for Orchids, 
and the small particles shaken out will come in useful for small 
Ferns and other plants that require a little peat. Loam may 
be broken up, and this with leaf mould stored ready for use. 
Manures of various kinds should be under cover, and when dry 
enough passed through sieves as opportunity offers. The supply 
of chemical stimulants may be ordered for use when wanted; 
but it may be well to note that superphosphate of lime if kept 
very long after being manufactured partially goes back to the 
insoluble condition. 
It is surprising with what facility work can be done during the 
busy months of the year when everything needed is ready to hand, 
and it is only by the exercise of foresight that the best can be 
made of the labour provided, which is little enough in most gardens. 
—Wm. Bardney. 
