Jannary 31, U95. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
91 
bleed, or even to gum, from the wounds should be pruned with the 
declining sap, say as soon as the leaves give indications of maturing, 
which is generally at the early part of October. Mr. Rivers 
advises this period for the pruning of Cherry trees, which are 
liable to gum from late spring pruning ; and Mr. Bunyard goes 
farther than that, advising all pruning to be done in the autumn, 
or while the leaves are on the trees ; this, of course, has 
reference to fruit trees, but what is good thing for them must be 
suitable for others of a similar nature. It is certainly desirable to 
BO prune deciduous trees and shrubs that the buds to be started 
may have some little time to prepare themselves for the effort 
they are expected to put forth, so as to be able to profit by the 
flush of sap in the spring, and utilise the matter which passes from 
ripened wood by diffusion to wherever growth is proceeding. 
Remember that the latent buds are at a great disadvantage as 
compared with those that are in a visible state, and that they 
require all the benefit of a preparatory period, in order to profit 
by the nutrient elements, and all the time that can be given for 
their development and perfecting of the resultant growth. 
Most deciduous trees and shrubs in a healthy state may be 
cut back to any extent with a certainty of their pushing fresh 
growths freely. Old trees, of course, push less vigorously than 
young, but there is no reason why most should not be pruned 
to the extent the proposer wishes, and top-heavy or even danger¬ 
ous, or overshadowing trees near dwellings be pollarded, and 
new heads secured that will better serve the purposes of ornament, 
shelter, and seclusion. The thing to do is to effect it thoroughly 
at the right time, and when the wounds are dry dress them with 
a substance that will exclude wet from the wood and prevent 
the spores of fungi settling, growing, and entering the tissues. 
For large limbs I know of nothing better than gas tar, which 
should be used in a careful manner with a stiffish brush, con¬ 
fining the painting to the wound and not smearing it on the live 
bark. Stockholm tar thinned to the proper consistence with 
boiled linseed oil also forms a good antiseptic dressing for large 
wounds, and it excludes fungal germs from the pores. Either is 
better than paint, for no paint acts so effectively as the tar dress¬ 
ing. For small wounds on shrubs shellac dissolved in alcohol 
answers, and French polish will prevent bleeding even after the 
flow of sap has commenced. 
Limes bear cutting better than, perhaps, any other tree, and 
the pollards that are seen in towns, even in the “ hearts ” of 
some old cities, attest their value as shade and screen trees. 
Elms and Oaks also bear the saw well, pushing growths from 
almost any part of the stem desired. Maples likewise bear topping, 
but the Beech rebels against the process, and Horse Chestnut must 
be begun with young or it will make a poor effort at forming a 
head. Willows are sure to put forth a second head better than the 
first, and it may be renewed as required from time to time with 
profit. These stand the sea breezes well, and have an appropriate 
association with water. 
Overgrown Lilacs in shrubberies only require the old heads cut 
away to insure fresh growth and better from the root, if care be 
taken to thin the sprouts and so treat the growths by timely manipu¬ 
lation as to secure an evenly balanced head. Lilacs make fine 
standards, and ornaments they are in town gardens when they have 
clear stems of about 6 feet height and the heads the shape of a 
half-ball about 8 feet in diameter. The ‘health of colour and 
fragrance these bear in early summer is enormous. 
Straggling Mock Oranges and nearly every deciduous shrub 
yields good returns for cutting clean down and beginning afresh. 
Of course there is a loss of flowers for a time, but there is the 
pleasure of seeing the garden in a thriving state instead of encum¬ 
bered with gaunt “ specimen*,” which shut out light and air from 
themselves and everything else. There is no radical remedy for 
overgrown shrubberies but a thorough overhaul. In extensive 
ones the back or interior part should be commenced with first, 
leaving sufficient of the best trees or shrubs here and there to give 
an appearance of height gradation from the outside, cuttirg the 
others well back to obtain fresh growths near the base, and low 
enough in all cases to form a good foundation. All the rubbish can 
be cleared away, and nothing further will be required than keeping 
down coarse weeds and shortening irregular growths in Ju<y to 
secure representative specimens. After three years the front line 
can be cut away—that is, treated similarly—and this will disclose a 
flourishing shrubbery behind, which will be enhanced in effect by 
the greenery in front. This will advance quickly, and thus a 
neglected shrubbery may be rejuvenated and even made pleasing. 
Evergreens may be treated in a similar manner. Evergreen 
Oaks bear any amount of cutting for producing compact forms, 
but the work must be done as early as the weather becomes fairly 
mild in spring. If deferred till the buds are moving in May, the 
growths are late, and they are sometimes cut by the frost after a 
damp mild autumn. 
Hollies, no matter how unshapely, may be transformed into 
handsome specimens by the use of the saw and tree pruner. I 
have operated on many trees, ungainly in habit and overgrown for 
their places, with the most satisfactory results. April is, perhaps, 
the best time to start old Hollies afresh, mild weather being chosen, 
and it is important to cut far enough back so as to give opportunity 
for shaping afterwards and allow for increased growth. If pruned 
late, slight bleeding occurs, and there is danger of the retarded 
growths not ripening sufficiently to stand the winter without dis¬ 
colouration from frost ; the bleeding shows that evergreens have 
some vascular tissue, but that is not material. 
Overgrown and poor-foliaged Portugal Laurels become quite 
charming in leafage and colour after a cutting down. They may 
be cut to the barest stumps, and will push growth which in a couple 
of years will form symmetrical heads, but it is essential to reduce 
the number of growths when they come in clusters, leaving the 
best in place and vigour, and shorten irregularities just before growth 
starts in the spring, or after the summer growth is ended. 
Common Laurels always grow to a certain height and then 
become uncouth, whole limbs often dying off. The best plan is to 
cut them all down and begin afresh. The inside of the shrubbery 
can be done first, and in three years afterwards the outside, the 
place being made as notable for thriving shrubs as it previously 
was for decrepit. It should be remembered that the success of the 
pruning depends on its thoroughness. Half measures are of small 
use in negleited shrubberies, or even with hoped-for specimens on 
lawns. The cutting of the trees or shrubs on these will most 
likely leave bare ground. That, I find, is best treated with liquid 
manure, which can be made to sink into the ground by drawing 
rings of dry soil around the stem outwards about a foot apart, and 
into these pouring the liquid, giving a few good soakings after rain. 
The soil can then be levelled, and the ground sown with lawn 
seeds, and the specimens will be displayed to the best advantage. 
—G. Abbey. 
VIOLET CULTURE. 
As the time for the division of the old plants for next year’s 
stock is drawing nigh, perhaps a few remarks on the method that 
was adopted here last season may prove useful to some readers of 
tAie Journal of -Horticulture. 
We have for several years past, for want of room, been in the 
habit of doing away with a five-light pit of Marie Louise, so I 
determined to divide the plants there and then, which was the 
middle of February, instead of waiting for those in the cold frames, 
which had hitherto been the case, dividing them as late as the middle 
of April. 
After filling a two-light frame with fermenting material, and 
covering with about 4 inches of fine soil, the crowns were inserted 
4 inches apart, watered, and on fine days occasionally syringed. 
They were found well rooted by the first week in April, when they 
were planted in a border previously prepared, having been deeply 
dug, and a sprinkling of soot with equal parts of leaf soil and 
Mushroom bed refuse worked in. 
The plants were disposed 10 inches apart each way, and so well 
did they thrive that by the middle of August they were touching 
each other. I am not speaking of plants with a single crown and 
five or six straggling runners, but bold clumps, 6 inches high and 
a foot in diameter. More space will be allowed them this year. 
About the beginning of August they commenced flowering pro¬ 
fusely ; this led me to think that such early division might be 
a mistake, but it is not so, as has been proved by the enormous 
number of large, well-coloured flowers which we have been able to 
gather this winter. At the present time the plants are smothered 
with buds and partly expanded blooms. 
Strict attention was paid to the removal of all runners, syring¬ 
ing, and frequent stirring of the surface soil, two sprinklings of 
soot being also given between the rows. The plants were placed 
in their winter quarters by the end of September, and voted by 
several practical men to be the finest they had ever seen ; certainly 
thev were the finest ever grown here. As is generally the case, 
after filling the usual frames there were several good plants left 
over. These were potted, and they amply repaid us for the trouble. 
They were stood on shelves in the Peach house, the genial atmo¬ 
sphere and gentle syringing necessary to start the trees seemed to 
suit them admirably, as they gave a profusion of flowers during 
December. c , • 
Doubtless there are some amongst the many readers of this 
valuable Journal who have adopted the plan described ; but to those 
who have not, I say try it. I am sure they will be more than 
satisfied with the result, and I think twelve months hence will be 
forced to that it is a step in the right direction.—W m. Potts, 
The Grove : -dens. 
