104 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
January 31, 1895. 
purposes is unquestioned, and the double white seen at Beading, with 
crimson, carmine, and scarlet, must be accorded the most prominent 
position for this purpose. There are, however, other varieties that may 
well be added, such for instance as Fern-leaved double white, which is 
of the greatest beauty. Then we have Carnation flaked, appropriately 
named from its resemblance to a flaked Carnation. The semi-double 
Gem, with its pink flowers set in finely cut leafage, must not be 
forgotten, neither must double alba magnifica, which, with its charm¬ 
ingly fringed flowers, is undoubtedly one of the very best. 
One of the most interesting houses at these nurseries is the one 
devoted to the trials. Here twelve plants of every sort are grown for 
comparison, and a glance suffices to show the quality of any particular 
stock. Though the plants are smaller than in the houses previously 
inspected there is no lack of health observable, and as a whole the trial 
is probably unique. It is in every way complete, and the firm is to be 
congratulated on the thoroughness with which it is carried out, as were 
it in any but this manner it would, instead of being valuable in all ways, 
be worse than useless. 
Marked as is the advance in the Primulas it is scarcely less so in the 
Cyclamens, and to go to Beading in the winter without seeing the latter 
would be an error always to be regretted. More perfect examples of proper 
methods of cultivation could scarcely be found anywhere. The plants, 
which are almost all in 48-sized pots, are dwarf and sturdy, with marbled 
leafage, and flowers standing on stout footstalks well above. It is not 
possible to mention all the varieties, but one cannot stop without 
reference to a few of the best. Vulcan, with its rich maroon coloured 
flowers, at once attracts the eye, and commands admiration ; as does the 
Salmon Queen, for the strain of which Messrs. Sutton & Sons received 
an award of merit at the last meeting of the Boyal Horticultural Society. 
Its colour may be best gathered from its name ; Butterfly, pure white, 
is a general favourite, and is certain to continue so, while for the 
giant section only words of praise can be found. But time flies, and the 
end must be reached. Let all who read this take the advice previously 
conveyed, and go to Beading to judge for themselves.—H. 
WOKK.foutheWeEK.. 
FBUIT FOECING. 
Peacbes and ITectarlnes .—Earliest Forced Trees. —Although 
good setting of the fruit often attends the mere shaking of the trellis or 
trees, it is desirable to fertilise the blossoms as they expand and the 
pollen becomes ripe, distributing it over the stigmas with a camel- 
hair brush, feather, or rabbit tail mounted on a stick. Syringing 
may be resorted to both morning and afternoon, when the fruit is 
well set and the weather bright, but in dull periods damping the 
floors and borders will be sufficient, and the afternoon syringing 
should take place early to allow the foliage to become fairly dry before 
nightfalh This is important, for excessive moisture encourages soft 
woody growths, weakens the tissues, and interrupts the elaboration 
and assimilation of the juices, which are essential to the development 
of the fruit and the sound construction of the wood. The water used 
for damping and syringing must be of the same temperature as the 
house, also that supplied to the roots. Avoid a sodden condition of the 
soil, which frequently induces the casting of the fruit, and the growth 
of the long-jointed useless wood. Disbudding must be done very 
carefully at this early season, removing a few growths from a tree 
at a time, and continuing the process daily. This is preferable to 
removing many young sprouts at distant intervals, as it gives a check 
to the roots, interferes with the diffusion of the nutrient matter, 
and promotes wood growth at the expense of the fruit. The night 
temperature will need to be maintained at 55° to insure steady progress, 
or even 60° on mild nights may be allowed, while on cold it may fall 
to 50°, for safety is on the side of the low degree, 60° to 65° by day 
artificially, 5° less on these figures when the weather is severe and dull. 
Ventilate early, admitting a little air at 65°, not allowing an advance 
over 70° without free or full ventilation, closing- at 65°, always 
excepting a small opening at the top of the house constantly. This 
prevents a stagnant atmosphere, secures a healthy condition in the 
foliage, and it is enabled to act fully in the presence of light. 
Second Early Souse. —Trees started at the new year are expanding 
their flowers, and are singularly free from aphides. Great care must be 
exercised in fumigating with tobacco or even vapourising with nicotine, 
as the organs of fructification are easily destroyed, therefore fumigation 
on two or three consecutive evenings moderately must be had recourse 
to if necessary in order to keep the insects in check, but vapourising is 
the safest process. Solutions sometimes injure the blossoms, and ought 
to be avoided. With an excess of blossom buds the trees may fail to set 
the fruit well, but by removing those on the under side of the shoots 
the remainder are correspondingly invigorated and the setting satis¬ 
factory. Syringing is best discontinued from the time the buds show 
colour and until the fruit is set, but the house may be sprinkled in the 
morning and afternoon, which will afford quite enough moisture for 
steady progress, a stagnant atmosphere being avoided by leaving a little 
air on constantly at the top of the house and increasing the ventilation 
from 50°, which should be the minimum day temperature, and 65° the 
maximum from sun heat with full ventilation. Eegard, however, must 
be had to cold air, it not being advisable to admit too much, but vary 
the ventilation according to external conditions. Inside borders should 
be thoroughly moistened to the drainage, avoiding needless watering. 
Trees to A fford Fruit in July. —The house should be closed at the 
beginning of February, when such varieties as Dymond, Boyal George, 
Grosse Mignonne, Noblesse, and Bellegarde Peaches, with Elruge, 
Dryden, and Pineapple Nectarine, will give a supply of the choicest 
fruit, while the earlier varieties, if any are grown, will come in about 
three weeks earlier. The very early varieties, however, are not worth 
growing ^beside these midseason sorts, but the second early, as Hale’s 
Early, A Bee, Dr. Hogg, and Bivers’ Early York Peaches, with Bivers’' 
Early, Goldoni, and Lord Napier Nectarines, are excellent for preceding 
the midseason varieties. The trees should be syringed in the morning 
and afternoon during bright weather, occasionally only in dull, and the 
border must be brought into a thoroughly moist condition. Employ fire 
heat to raise and maintain the temperature at 50° by day, above which 
ventilate freely, and allow to fall to 45° or 40° at night. 
Succession and Late Hoiises. —Finish pruning the trees at once, 
dressing them with an insecticide, after washing with softsoapy water, 
3 or 4 ozs. to a gallon, taking care not to dislocate the buds, not using 
the dressing at winter strength if the buds are advanced in swelling, but 
employ a weaker solution and applying with a syringe. Secure the 
trees to the trellis, allowing ample space for the swelling of the branches, 
and leave room between them for laying in young wood for future 
bearing. Loosen the surface of the border lightly, not disturbing the 
roots materially, removing any loose soil or old mulching, and supplying 
fresh loam, with a dressing of bone superphosphate three parts, sulphate 
of potash two parts, and one part sulphate of lime, mixed, applying a 
good bandful per square yard; the waterings will wash it in fast 
enough. If the borders are at all dry afford a thorough watering. 
Vines.— Early Forced in Pots. —Thin the berries somewhat freely, 
so as to secure large ones, yet not to the extent of making the bunch 
loose and unshapely. Maintain the night temperature at 65°, falling to 
60° on cold mornings, but raise the heat early to 65° or 70°, keeping at 
70° to 75° by day, increasing to 80° or 85° with sun heat, and closing at 
80°, with a prospect of an advance to 85° or 90°. Ventilate very care¬ 
fully, always early, and closing in good time, then damping the house. 
Damping is also necessary early in the day. Afford copious supplies of 
tepid liquid manure. 
Early Forced House, —Duplicate and surplus bunches should be 
removed, and the berries thinned as soon as they become well formed, 
not deferring it beyond the distinguishing of the fertilised from the 
unfertilised. The inside border may be covered about an inch thick 
with sweetened short stable litter, which should be turned several 
times before it is introduced, otherwise the ammonia evolved may prove 
disastrous to the foliage. Attention will be required in tying the shoots 
and in stopping the laterals. Where space is restricted the shoots may 
be stopped closely, say one joint beyond the bunch, and the laterals be 
pinched at every joint as made. In other cases more growth may be 
allowed, but in all it is important that the principal leaves have full 
exposure to light and air. 
Vines in Flower. —When coming into bloom maintain the night 
temperature at 65°, 70° to 75° by day, and 5° to 10° more from sun 
heat. Muscat of Alexandria must have 5° more, and as these are liable 
to set indifferently the bunches should have all the light possible and 
their ends facing the sun, then, when in flower, they can be rapped on 
the stem gently, or better have the pollen disposed on the stigmas by 
using a camel’s-hair brush charged with pollen from free-setting 
varieties. A constant circulation of warm, rather dry air is conducive 
of a good set, and it is advisable not to stop the growth closely during 
the setting period. 
Vines Started at the New Year. —Continue syringing the rods twice 
a day, but do not keep them constantly wet, as this induces aerial roots 
from them, and interferes with soil-root formation. Syringing may 
continue until the bunches show, but damping the borders and paths 
two or three times a day will be necessary to maintain a genial 
condition of the atmosphere. Do not be in a hurry to disbud, letting 
the growths advance until the bunches appear in the points of the 
shoots, then the weakest an^, otherwise least desirable can be removed, 
but it should be done gradually so as not to cause an appreciable check. 
Vines to Afford Pipe Grapes in July. —The beginning of February 
is the latest time for starting midseason varieties to finish after mid¬ 
summer. Outside borders need not be covered with fermenting 
material, but a covering of leaves with a little litter over them to 
prevent their blowing about is all that is necessary to prevent the soil 
becoming frozen. The stems of the Vines, if outside, must also be 
thoroughly wrapped in haybands. Maintain a minimum temperature 
of 50°, and allow an advance to 65° from sun heat, 55° being the 
maximum from fire heat in the daytime. This will cause the sap to rise 
steadily, and a light damping occasionally assists in promoting the 
osmostic action of the cells, and the transference of stored matter from 
the wood to the growing parts. Due moisture at the roots is also 
imperative, for though the moisture may not be excessive some is 
necessary, therefore moisten the border through to the drainage, using 
water slightly in advance of that of the house in temperature, and if the 
Vines are weakly and the border in good order afford liquid manure 
after the moistening of the soil, which will to some extent displace the 
water and afford nutriment in due time. 
