Jtajary 3', 1893. 
JOURXAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
105 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Cauliflowers.—If late Broccoli has been much injured by frosts, 
or to the same extent as some of the midseason varieties, another sharp 
frost will about finish them. If it be thought advisable to forward a 
few dozen Cauliflowers so as to have them fit for use in advance of any 
wintered or started in hand-lights, make a hotbed about 2 feet in depth 
and quite firm, spreading a little manure over this for the roots to lay 
hold of, and on this 9 inches of good loamy compost. When the soil is 
warmed through plant Early Snowball or one of the small forcing 
varieties, 1.5 inches apart. Protect with glazed lights and mats, but avoid 
undue coddling. Keep them well supplied with water, and use liquid 
manure freely directly the plants give signs of forming hearts. Autumn- 
raised plants wintered in frames should have abundance of air whenever 
the weather is not frosty, as they transplant badly after having grown 
strongly. If very small place singly in 2i-inch pots, and keep rather 
warmer than formerly. Hardened and planted under hand-lights or 
at the foot of warm walls before they become much root-bound there is 
a possibility of their surpassing larger plants not given a start in pots. 
In order to have a succession to autumn-raised plants sow seeds 
thinly in pans or boxes and place in gentle heat. If plants of Autumn 
Giant were not raised last autumn sow a few seeds at once, and the 
plants, if grown to their full size without experiencing a severe check, 
will give fine hearts about the middle of August, those kept through the 
winter being a fortnight ahead of them. 
Celery.— The time has arrived for sowing seeds of early Celery. 
Give the preference to a good white variety, those which attain the 
largest size gaining most favour with exhibitors. Sow in well drained 
pans filled with fine loamy soil, making the surface quite level. Give a 
gentle watering, and after the water has drained away sow the seeds, 
covering very lightly with fine soil. Plunge in brisk bottom heat, cover 
with squares of glass, and shade heavily. The soil ought to be kept 
uniformly moist, and a light shading afforded whenever bright sunshine 
prevails after the seedlings appear. Before the plants become drawn 
transfer the pans to shelves near to the glass, but not in a cool house. 
After the first rough leaf is well developed prick out the requisite 
number of plants into boxes of rich loamy soil and keep in heat near 
the glass, or prick them out in a frame over a gentle hotbed. 
Onions. —Those who are anxious to grow extra fine Onions should 
sow seeds of choice varieties in heat. It will be found that every fairly 
sound seeds will germinate in heat far more surely than in the open 
ground, and every plant raised and duly planted on good ground 
will soon recommence active growth and surpass an}'' that have been 
raised in the open in the usual way. Those small but expensive packets 
of fine varieties can thus be utilised to their fullest extent. There is no 
good reason why gardeners who are not exhibitors should not adopt the 
practice of raising Onions extensively under glass and planting out. 
Several thousand plants may easily be raised in boxes, and when about 
4 inches high they can be dibbled out where they are to grow with 
trifling losses. The seeds will germinate quickly if the boxes are placed 
on a hotbed in an early started vinery, but bottom heat is not absolutely 
necessary. 
lieeks. —In order to have fully grown well blanched Leeks fit for 
exhibition in August plants must be raised in heat, sowing the seeds not 
later than the first week in February. One of the larger exhibition 
varieties should be preferred. Leeks are excellent served as a vegetable, 
while if Onions keep badly a good supply of Leeks will prove very 
acceptable as a substitute. 
Early Peas. —Very few gardeners can afford time and space for 
Peas in pots, but if extra early dishes are desired they might yet attempt 
their production by means of shallow mild hotbeds and rough frames, or 
such as may be at present in use for protecting Endive. Chelsea Gem 
or William Hurst are the best for frame culture, and in order to lose no 
time sow from a pint to one quart of seeds at once, either in pots or boxes of 
light soil. Germination will quickly take place in a Peach house or vinery, 
being forced, and the plants should be hardened off and planted where 
they are to crop before they have a chance of becoming stunted. In the 
meantime prepare the frame for the plants, surfacing ozer a shallow solid 
hotbed with short manure, on this placing 6 inches of rich loamy soil. 
When this is warmed through plant the Peas rather thickly in lines 
15 inches apart. Those raised in boxes ought to have their roots shaken 
clear of soil, and be planted Box edge fashion in deep drills and pressed 
with a spade. If there is sufficient height in the frame place short 
stakes to the rows at once, and in any case dibble out a row of either 
Early Paris Market or Golden Queen Cabbage Lettuce between them. 
The latter will more than repav for the work done. Protect from frosts 
and cold winds. This class of dwarf early Peas may be raised in a 
similar manner for planting in lines at the foot of sunny walls, and a 
little later on south borders generally. William I., Exonian, or other 
popular early round-seeded varieties ought also to be raised in pots or 
boxes ready for planting out as soon as the state of the ground will 
permit—earlier though not quite so heavy crops being had in this way 
than by sowing in the open. During the first fortnight in February 
seeds of early round-seeded varieties may be sown in the open, but if the 
ground is in bad working order or saturated with moisture, delay sowing 
till it is in a better state, otherwise much of the seed may perish in the 
ground. 
Broad Beans. —Should these he wanted extra early sow seeds singly 
in 2J-inch pots and place in heat to germinate, planting on a warm 
border after hardening. The remarks as to sowing in the open apply to 
these equally with Peas. Early Longpod and Beck’s Dwarf Green 
Gem are very suitable for sowing early. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Carnation miss Jollffe. —Young plants raised from layers late 
last autumn and placed in small pots will be well rooted. They are 
useful for autumn and winter flowering, saving the time and trouble of 
rooting cuttings in the spring. These plants may be placed in 2J--inch 
pots, and then stood in any cool house or frame where frost can be kept 
from them. Under these conditions they will continue to grow slowly 
and be ready for a good start when genial weather arrives. The point 
of the plants may be removed if they do not branch freely. Where 
sufficient have not been rooted cuttings may be inserted at once, and for 
this purpose young growing shoots should be taken from plants in a cool 
house. These must bo cut close to a joint with a sharp knife, and two 
or three inserted round the side of thumb pots in sandy soil. When 
watered place the pots under a bell-glass in a house where the 
temperature ranges at night about 65°. If other varieties are needed 
they may be treated in the same way. 
Asparagus plumosus. —Cuttings may be inserted singly in thumb 
pots in sandy soil. A portion of the main stem should be attached to 
each frond, say about half an inch in all on each side of the joint. 
These must be well watered and placed under band-glasses in the 
temperature advised for Carnations. From cuttings inserted now good 
plants for decoration in 4 and 5-inch pots will be produced by the 
autumn. 
Caladlums.— A few of these may be shook out of the old soil and 
started into growth. If a propagating box with a good bottom heat 
exists the tubers may be plunged into it amongst cocoa-nut fibre refuse 
until they commence to grow, when they can be potted. Failing this 
provision place them in a pan or box, and arrange them over a hot- 
water pipe. 
Crotons. —Where a brisk moist heat can be maintained young 
healthy plants may be potted at once. Be careful that the soil in which 
they are to be potted has been thoroughly warmed, or a severe check 
may result. The plants should be potted in the house in which they 
are to grow. Careful watering is necessary after repotting at this 
period of the year. Plants that have become bare at the base may be 
notched near the top and mossed. As soon as growing conditions are 
favourable they will form roots, and may be taken off. Cuttings of 
these plants if inserted while the wood is firm and the plants at a stand¬ 
still, the foliage is certain to fall, and the cuttings will be a long time 
before they root. Plants intended to do duty for some time longer in 
small pots may have a little chemical manure applied to the surface to 
keep them in good condition. 
Gardenias. —Those with prominent flower buds may be placed in 
brisk heat; do not overwater, and if infested with insects do not use 
strong stimulants, or the flo'sser buds will become deformed. Young 
stock, if brisk bottom heat can be given, may be placed in larger pots and 
plunged. 
Zxoras. —Autumn-rooted plants in small pots may, where abundance 
of heat can be maintained, be placed in 4-inch pots. These make 
capital decorative plants, 9 inches or a foot high, according to the 
variety. 'Water-eai^ully" and do not syringe the plants, or their foliage 
is liabie-to-becaffle~8p6tJ.ed. Very frequent spotting is due to too low a 
temperature. Do not pot these plants until their shoots have started 
again into growth. 
IVIarantas. — Plants that have enjoyed a period of rest and 
need repotting should be attended to at once. They start freely if brisk 
bottom heat can be given; in fact, much better than if potting is 
delayed until the sun has gained power. Strong, robust growing kinds 
do well in fibrous loam, one-seventh of manure, a liberal addition of 
sand and charcoal. If the pots are large enough carefully remove the 
old compost from about their roots, reducing the old ball about one- 
third. Some varieties do best with a good proportion of peat used in 
lumps in the compost. 
Anthurlum Scherzerlanum. —Plants that have been removed 
for some weeks from the stove to a temperature 5° or 10° lower may 
again be introduced into the stove. With increased heat and moisture 
the plants soon commence to grow and flower. Where a good number 
are grown the plants may be flowered in succession. 
Braceenas. —Plants of various kinds that have been used for 
decoration and have become shabby may be stood on one side in a fairly 
warm house, and dried to harden their stems. If cut up while 
moderately soft at this early period of the year they are liable to 
decay. When dried for a few weeks the stems may safely be cut 
into lengths, and if placed in brisk heat nearly every one will start 
into growth. The root portion of old plants always do best. 
Cannas. —The newer varieties are very useful for various decorative 
purposes. Plants that have enjoyed a rest may be divided and 
placed singly in pots according to their size. If placed in fairly brisk 
heat they will soon start into growth, when they can be removed to 
somewhat cooler quarters. If kept in heat they will soon push strong 
growths and flower. ___ 
GARDENERS’ CHARITABLE AND PROVIDENT 
INSTITUTIONS. 
The Gardeners’ Royal Benevolent Institution.— 
Mr. G. J. Ingram, 50, Parliament Street, London, W.C. 
United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society.— 
Secretary, Mr. W. Collins, 9, Martindale Rrad, Balham, London, 8.W. 
Royal Gardeners’ Orphan Fund.— Mr. A. F. Barron, 
Royal Horticultural Society’s Gardens, Chiswick, London, W. 
