114 
JOURNAL OF HORTIGULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
February 7, 1895. 
reason for supposing that any benefit accrues at all, for the bulbs 
are matured and have attained to their maximum size as soon as 
the plants go out of bloom ; consequently the exposure is at_ the 
best useless, and if long-continued rains fall positively injurious. 
Such rains soak the beds, delay the operation of lifting the 
bulbs, and probably cause the outer skins to be cracked and 
decayed. 
All the old writers are unanimous on the necessity of 
removing all seed pods, except those that have been artificially 
cross-fertilised by the grower, when they begin to swell, lest their 
growing should weaken the bulbs. Mr. Horner, 1 believe, was the 
first to point out that this idea is quite a mistaken one, as the new 
bulb that has been growing as the plant grew has nothing what¬ 
ever to do with the nourishing of the seed pod, that office being 
performed by the old roots. This can be proved by digging care¬ 
fully down to the roots of a seed-bearing plant, when it will be 
found that the bulb can easily be detached and taken away without 
-disturbing either roots or stem, which will go on growing and 
ripening the seed without feeling the removal of the bulb. It is, 
rin reality, quite immaterial whether the seed pods be removed or 
not as far as the bulbs are concerned ; but if they are suffered to 
remain the plants keep alive longer, and have the labour of 
producing something that is not required. 
The bulbs are ready for being taken up when the leaves become 
ipale and yellowish, and the stem will bend double without snapping 
off ; this occurs from three to four weeks after the bloom is over, 
which is generally at the latter part of June. It is far better to 
lift the bulbs at this time than to wait until later, when the leaves 
and stems have become dry and withered. If the taking up be 
done soon, the bulbs and offsets being at that time pale in colour, 
are readily seen amongst the darker soil as they are lifted by the 
hand-fork or trowel, and the stem still firmly attached to the roots 
and bulbs is of much assistance, for being grasped in the left hand 
while the fork is being carefully forced underneath the roots by 
the right, the whole plant with bulbs and offshoots attached, is by 
its means easily lifted away. The earth is then shaken from the 
roots, the stem broken or cut off just above the top of the bulb, 
leaving an inch or two adhering, and the bulb placed in its com¬ 
partment in the drawer or box. Care must be taken not to tear 
away the old roots and stems at this time, as serious injuries are 
sure to ensue to the tender bulbs so treated. If the lifting be 
•deferred until late the outer skins of the bulbs and offsets will be 
found to have become much darker in shade, and are so near the 
-.colour of the soil that finding them is much more difficult than at 
an earlier period, and from this cause probably some of the 
smaller ones will be overlooked altogether, and the stems, being 
^decayed, break away at a touch, and are of no assistance. The 
outer skins of bulbs that have been taken up early are perfect and 
without cracks ; they clothe the bulbs, preventing loss of moisture 
by evaporation, whilst those of bulbs lifted too late are always 
cracked, and in some cases almost entirely wanting. 
Cloudy days are best for taking up, both for the bulbs and the 
operator ; if, perforce, hot sunny weather has to be put up with 
it is wise to cover the bulbs as they are placed in their compart¬ 
ments with something cool, such as Rhubarb leaves, Snd if the 
glass has been kept over the beds that may be covered with 
shading also. 
The bulbs, being lifted and placed in their boxes or drawers, 
should be allowed to dry in a moderately warm place in which 
•currents of fresh air freely circulate. The boxes must not be piled 
one on another, but be spread out in such a way that the air has 
free access to every bulb. The rays of the sun must not be 
allowed to fall directly on the bulbs whilst they are drying, or 
indeed at any other time, or great mischief will ensue. A splendid 
collection was once almost totally destroyed by sun heat. The 
bulbs were laid out to dry in what were called cold frames. It was 
the summer of 1893 ; one day early in July was phenomenally hot, 
the cold frames became close ovens, and nine-tenths of the bulbs 
were completely destroyed, although the frames had been shaded 
•10 some extent, and air could gain admittance. When the bulbs 
nre completely dry the drawers containing them may be returned 
to the cabinet, when no further attention is needed until they are 
cleaned previous to planting again. 
Having now completed the cycle of the year I have arrived 
again at my starting point, with the bulbs at rest previous to 
planting, and have little further to add on the subject of culture. 
The methods of procedure recommended are such as I use myself 
and have every reason to be satisfied with, and although I do not 
pretend that what I have written on this subject of culture will 
make the reader a full-blown Tulip grower, still I think I may claim 
that it will help the earnest inquirer along in the right direction, 
and if carefully fobowed save much trouble and disappointment in 
his early efforts. 
It is much to be regretted that no one has as yet thought the 
Tulip worthy of study from a scientific standpoint. A series of 
careful chemical analyses of bulbs and plants in various conditions 
of health and growth would be most useful as tending to a more 
thorough understanding of the character and proportions of the 
various chemical elements required in the soil for the highest 
development of the bulbs and flowers. At the same time, 
considering the delicate balance that has to be attained and kept in 
the matter of marking, I do not hope for such good results from 
chemical research as would be obtained in the case of Turnips, say, 
where the main consideration is an increase in the size of the root. 
Still, the analyses referred to could not fail to be of value. 
I have known chemical manures such as nitrate of soda and 
sulphate of ammonia used for Tulips, but only in limited 
amounts, and so rarely that no reliable statement of their effects 
can be given. I certainly do not advise their use in the present 
state of the chemical knowledge of the subject. There is a good 
opening for an enthusiastic grower of a scientific turn of mind to 
experiment with various chemical manures and report progress from 
time to time to his brother growers. He would deserve their 
cordial sympathy and gratitude, and would no doubt readily 
obtain them. Some self-sacrifice would have to be shown, as his 
stock of bulbs would be a continually vanishing quantity, and all 
would have to pay an annual toll of bulbs for the good of the cause. 
(To be continued.) 
FORCING NARCISSI. 
Nothing is more detrimental to the forcing of Narcissus than trying 
to hurry them in the early stages of growth. By the time the plants 
have made Ij inch of growth under aihes outside they should be 
removed to cold frames until they have turned green and display signs 
of growing. Up to this stage, after removing them from the ashes, they 
appear to be at a standstill, but they are making roots freely. 
Once signs of movement are visible in the cold frames, or if severe 
frost compel their removal, they should be placed in a cool house where 
frost can be excladed. They must then be removed to a temperature 
5° higher—say 45° to 60°—for ten days or a fortnight, where the atmo¬ 
sphere is fairly moist and the plants can be well syringed. Under these 
conditions they quickly display signs of growth, and they would flourish 
in a temperature of 50° to 60°, or even more in their last stages if wanted 
out as early as possible. We have been forcing the old common Daffodil 
in a temperature of 65° to 70°. But they should never be subjected to 
this heat until the flower buds are well developed. Strong heat is only 
advised in cases of real need, 60° being ample. 
It is very easy to overforce Narcissi in the early stages of their 
growth. More bulbs of various kinds are ruined by injudicious forcing 
than from any other cause. Many growers err in giving liquid manure 
when the plants have practically no growth to absorb these soluble 
foods. About half an inch of decayed manure at the bottom of the 
boxes is the course we pursue, and never attempt at feeding afterwards, 
and we rarely water beyond syringing until the plants are growing 
vigorously.—0. M. 
MELON BEAUTY OF SION. 
I HAVE pleasure in forwarding a photograph of the above Melon 
grown here this summer. There were two plants grown side by side 
in a box 4 feet in length, 2 feet 6 inches in width, and 1 foot 6 inches 
in depth, half the latter being drainage, and the remaining portion 
good fresh maiden loam, to which was added a little clay and wood 
aih. One of these two plants had its point taken out as soon as it 
reached the trellis, taking three shoots on the cordon principle. 
The reason this plan was adopted was to secure four or more flowers, 
if possible, ready for fertilisation on the same day (a difficulty 
often experienced on the single cordon system). This plant ripened 
its fruit at the same time as the plant which was allowed to grow 
unstopped, owing to the fact that the lateral growth in the latter 
case was more than that of the other. This mode of procedure seems 
to be effectual, there being twenty fruits set on these two plants, 
of which eighteen were allowed to remain, and were very handsome 
though not large, weighing 36 lbs., or an average of 2 lbs. each. 
These plants were grown with their foliage over a tank of water, 
which would doubtless have been much against them had the weather 
been very dull during the period of flowering. 
It would be interesting to know from others who may have grown 
this variety if it is susceptible of cracking. We have grown all our 
Melons this year in boxes of wood and slate with excellent results, 
having proved that good crops of Melons may be obtained from a much 
less amount of soil and bottom heat than was formerly supposed. It 
is needless to add that careful and diligent attention must be given 
to watering and feeding when the roots are confined. Through this I 
feel satisfied that the fear and risk of canker is greatly reduced.— 
J. Snell, Grimston Gardens. 
[The photograph sent represents a crop such as could only have 
been produced by thorough cultivation, but the picture was not sharp 
enough to permit of successful reproduction.] 
