February 7, 1895. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
125 
select others from the nursing department which have been wintered in 
7 or 8-inch pots, choosing the most vigorous. Those remaining may be 
reserved until the general spring potting, when they can be shaken out 
and treated similarly to suckers. Good fibrous loam, with the turf well 
reduced, placed under cover to become dried, is a suitable compost. It 
should be torn up roughly, rejecting the small particles. Drain the pots 
well, dust dry soot or wood ashes over the crocks to exclude worms, and 
ram the soil firmly round the plants, keeping them well down in the pots 
to admit of copious supplies of water being given when necessary ; 
10-inch pots are suitable for Queens, and 11 or 12-inch for those of more 
robust growth. A temperature of 60° to 65° will be sufficient for these 
plants, also those potted last autumn, and about 85° bottom heat. 
Starting Plants into Fruit. —The beds in which these are placed 
must not be more at the base of the pots than 90° to 95°, or the roots 
of the plants will be injured. If sufficient fruits be started to meet the 
requirements later successional plants that have not been subjected to a 
high temperature may be advanced slowly, they with autumn-rooted 
suckers requiring careful watering, especially when the heat at the roots 
is supplied by fermenting materials. 
Fig'S. — Earliest Trees in Pots. —The trees started in November or 
early in December to afford fruit at the close of April and early in May 
will be forming fresh roots, the bottom heat being kept steady at about 
70° to 75°. Raise the fermenting material to the rims of the pots, and 
instead of allowing the roots to come over them place pieces of turf 
round the rims to keep the roots near home and induce a sturdier 
growth. Maintain a genial atmosphere by syringing twice a day and 
damping as may be required in bright weather. Admit a little air at 
70°, increasing it with the temperature ; close at 75°, and 
if the heat rises to 80° or 85° from sun heat it will be an advantage. 
The drainage being good, and the trees in proper condition, there 
as little danger of giving Figs too much water, many crops being lost 
by the soil being allowed to become too dry. The temperature in dull 
weather may be kept at 60° to 65° by day, 65° to 60° at night when the 
external air is cold, but 5° higher when the weather is mild. Dis¬ 
budding must have attention as growth advances, and gross shoots be 
stopped ; but it is better to keep the growths rather thin and secure 
sturdy, short-jointed wood than practise close pinching, as the finest 
fruits are borne on extensions. 
Early Forced Planted-out Fig Trees. —The trees planted in narrow 
inside borders and started early in the year are commencing growth, 
and may have the night temperature raised to 55°, 60° to 65° by day 
from fire heat, with an advance from sun heat and free ventilation to 
70° or even 75°. Syringe twice a day, and see that the borders are 
thoroughly moistened. If the trees are weak a drenching with liquid 
manure, not too strong, at a temperature equal to that of the house, will 
assist the growth. 
Cherry House. —Ventilate early, for no fruit tree dislikes a close 
and moist atmosphere more than the Cherry. Maintain a night 
temperature of 40° to 45° as the trees come into blossom, 45° to 50° in 
•dull cold weather, 50° in mild, increasing the ventilation from 60°, 
allowing a rise of 10° to 15° from sun heat, with full ventilation, closing 
at 55°. Syringe the trees and house in the morning and afternoon till 
the blossoms are somewhat advanced, but cease it before they expand, 
damping the paths and borders occasionally to maintain a genial 
condition of the atmosphere. Allow a little ventilation constantly at 
the top of the house. Trees in pots must have the necessary care in 
watering. 
Stra-wberrles In Pots. —The earliest plants have set the fruit 
fairly well, and being thinned to about half a dozen berries to each 
plant are swelling freely. The December plants have, however, been 
brought on slowly, and are commencing to flower strongly. These 
will give a far better crop of fruit than those started very early, 
providing air be freely admitted, the weaker flowers removed, and when 
the pollen is ripe each flower is lightly brushed over with a feather 
charged with the fertilising farina. After the fruit is set thin them to 
the number the plant is likely to swell perfectly, this being a matter for 
judgment, and must be regulated by the condition of the plant and 
variety. Whilst the fruit is setting 50° to 55° will be sufficient heat 
artificially, advancing to 60° or 65° with sun heat; but after the setting 
is effected remove the plants to a house with a temperature of 60° to 65° 
artificially, and 70° to 76° by day, supplying liquid manure until 
ripening commences, then employ water only and sparingly. Whilst 
swelling they require a moist genial atmosphere. 
Successional plants must not lack water, but needless watering is 
highly prejudicial, therefore examine each plant and afford a supply 
only when required. The plants succeed best when brought on gently, a 
temperature of 60° artificially being ample. Examine the plants care¬ 
fully for aphides, and if there be any trace fumigate moderately, taking 
care to have the plants perfectly clean before they come into flower. 
Cucumbers. —Avoid overcrowding, keep the foliage thin, remove 
bad leaves and exhausted growths, stopping one or two joints beyond the 
fruit. Crop lightly, and secure clean growths as essential to free suc¬ 
cessional bearing. Keep the night temperature at 65° to 70°, and 75° by 
day, with 80° to 90° from sun heat, closing early in the afternoon, with 
abundance of moisture on bright sunny afternoons ; this, with judicious 
applications of liquid manure in a tepid state will insure due nourish¬ 
ment and free growth in the plants and fruit. 
Young plants may be transferred to the hillocks or ridges in the 
structure prepared for their reception, and soil having been in a few days 
to warm it should be pressed firmly about each plant, placing a stick to 
each, and securing to the lower or such wire as suits for training the 
plants when grown on trellises. Shade for a few days from bright sun 
at planting, but not more than is absolutely necessary to prevent 
flagging. 
bTelons. —When the plants from seeds sown at the new year are 
sufficiently strong they may be planted in their fruiting quarters. The 
ridges or hillocks of soil should be made quite firm and had in sufficiently 
long to become warmed through, then turn out the plants carefully, 
firmly pressing the soil about the roots, and keeping the collar slightly 
elevated. Place a stick to each plant and secure to the trellis, rubbing 
off all laterals appearing on the stem whilst quite small until the trellis 
is reached. Maintain a genial condition of the atmosphere by syringing 
surfaces other than the plants in the morning and afternoon. A night 
temperature of 65° to 70°, falling 5° on cold nights, 70° to 75° by day 
artificially, and 85° or 90° from sun heat will insure steady progress. 
Ventilation must be given very carefully, always in the early part of the 
day, closing so as to secure a good advance from sun heat in the early 
part of the afternoon. Seeds should be sown without delay for raising 
plants to be placed in frames, also for successional planting in houses. 
Vines. — Eyes and Cut-iaoks. —Eyes may now be inserted, using 
pots, pans, or square pieces of turf. Select plump buds on firm, well- 
ripened wood, filling the pot or pan with rich friable loam ; insert the 
eyes with a pinch of silver sand and about half an inch beneath the 
surface ; plunge the pots in a bottom heat of 80°. Cut-backs should be 
placed in a house where they will have a temperature of 60° to 65° at 
night, *and 70° to 75° by day. When they have started into growth 
shake them out and return to the same size of pot, using good friable 
loam, and give a rather close and moist atmosphere until re-established, 
when they should have a position near the glass, so as to insure sturdy, 
short-jointed, thoroughly solidified growth. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Cyclamens. —Where a number of young plants have not been raised 
from seed for another season no time should be lost in sowing. The seed 
should be sown in pans of moderately light soil and just covered, the 
pan or pot containing the seed being watered, and then covered with a 
square of glass. Place the seed in a temperature of 65°, and germina¬ 
tion will soon take place. When the young plants are up air must be 
admitted gradually, and the pot or pan should be put close to the glass 
on a shelf, which will prevent the seedlings becoming drawn. 
Cllvlas. --Seedlings of last year that have been in a cool house may 
be repotted into larger pots, using a compost of good loam, leaf mould, 
decayed manure, and sand. The young plants may then be placed where 
they can enjoy a temperature of 55°, when they will soon start into 
growth, and before the end of the season should make strong plants. 
Established plants that have been kept cool and on the dry side may be 
gently forced into bloom. Where a good stock of these plants is grown 
a few may be introduced at a time, in order to form a succession. Well 
grown single plants in 6 or 7-inch pots when in flower are most useful 
for room decoration, where they will stand without the slightest injury. 
Azaleas. —The varieties of A. amoena and A. indica as they finish 
blooming should be placed in a vinery having a warm moist 
atmosphere. If placed again in the greenhouse the plants are seriously 
checked and make their growth late, rendering them unfit for early 
forcing another season. When placed in warmth they soon commence 
active growth, and if they need more root room should be potted directly 
the roots display signs of activity. If the plants are in pots large 
enough when their roots are active give them a little chemical manure 
on the surface of the soil. Two dressings during the growing season 
will be ample. 
liantanas.— These should have enjoyed a good rest, and may be 
started again into growth. Prune the shoots well back, and place the 
plants where they can be syringed once or twice daily, and where the 
temperature ranges 50° to 55°. The plants under these conditions will 
soon start, when they may be repotted. The old balls should be reduced 
by one-half and the plants placed again in the same sized pots in loam. 
Very little water is needed until the plants are growing and rooting 
freely. 
Freeslas. —As these cease blooming, if the bulbs are needed for 
another year they should not be cast on one side in any out-of-the-way 
place. The pots ought to be arranged on a shelf where the temperature 
ranges at least 45°, and the plants supplied with water when they need 
it. A little chemical manure applied to the surface of the soil will 
assist in developing the bulbs for another season. These plants increase 
rapidly, and even the small bulbs soon develop into a flowering size. 
Grevllleas. —Plants that have done duty and have become sha,bby 
may be cut close back. Some growers throw them away, but this is 
a mistake, as they make even better plants the second season than 
the first. If two or three shoots are needed these can be retained, 
and for some purposes are to be preferred to those with a single one. 
If plants with a single stem only are needed disbudding must be 
practised. 
Zonal Pelarg'onlums. —Plants that have flowered and have been 
kept dry may now be pruned close back and placed in gentle warmth 
to break again into growth. If increased stock is needed cuttings may be 
inserted singly in thumb poti, and will root freely on a shelf if a 
temperature of 65° can be maintained. Young stock in and 3-inch 
pots may be placed in 5-inch. Press the soil firmly in tne pots, and 
place the plants on a shelf where the temperature ranges about 50° ; 
they will soon start into growth and flower. 
Daffodils. —Plants that have bloomed in boxes should, after the 
flowers have been removed, be stood in a light place in a cool house. If 
