February 7, 1895. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
127 
Crafting: Pear Tree (6'. *4.).—A graft may be placed oq each 
branch, cut back if there is room for training the growth, otherwise 
only gradt those branches that are best located for affording growths 
from the grafts to cover the space equally at proper distance apart— 
namely, 12 inches. It is best to cut off the whole head and put on 
scions so as to form a fresh tree as soon as practicable. 
The Winter IVIoth (24 B,"). —The attempts that have from time 
to time been made to destroy the eggs of the winter moth have been 
failures, except by killing trees as well, hence it is useless to apply any 
insecticides for that purpose now. Paris green, applied at the end of 
March or early in April and continuously as required, will keep the trees 
clean. The strawsoniser is answering well in some parts of Australia in 
destroying locusts; where this cannot be used an engine by Boulton and 
Paul, with one of Stott’s sprayers, will prove extremely useful. In this 
apparatus it is impossible for the Paris green to settle, but is kept in 
constant suspension by an ingenious internal contrivance. The slacked 
lime and soot you suggest are utterly useless for application to destroy 
the eggs. It is an open question when the insects cease depositing 
eggs. 
Muscat Vine Roots Decayed (J. P. 32.).—There is neither 
fungi nor other micro-organisms of an injurious nature on the Vine 
roots, but there are Bacterium termo and Spirillum tenue, which 
are found in most soils holding putrified remains of plants in solution. 
The small mycelial threads appear to be those of the mould (Muoor) 
common on dead organic matter, and are not baneful to healthy 
organisms, but if anything beneficial by converting the putrefactive 
matter into inorganic compounds. The possible cause of the decay 
of the roots is a sodden, sour, effete soil, which may have been 
occasioned by over-rich material or an excessive supply of liquid 
manure, producing a close soapy condition of the soil. The only thing 
we can suggest is lifting the Vines, removing all the old soil, cutting 
away the dead portions of the roots, and laying the sound parts in 
fresh sweet soil over good drainage. If attended to without delay there 
is ample time to improve the condition of the Vines this season. 
Onion Grubs (Z. B. J.). —It is difficult to prevent the attacks of 
the Onion maggots. The insects pass the winter in a pupa state in the 
ground, and in this form are so well protected by their cases that it is 
not easy to destroy them. Ammoniacal liquor from gasworks, and 
solution of paraffin of the strength of an ounce of oil to a gallon of 
water, and poured over the ground, are more or less effective and also 
act as a manure. It is well to have Onion beds as far distant as possible 
from where the crops were last grown and attacked. It is a good plan 
also to dig the ground deeply a day or two before sowing, as then many 
of the pupa cases are placed so far below the surface that the flies 
cannot readily emerge from them, and thus deposit eggs tor producing 
future crops of maggots. Very heavy dressings of lime and soot are 
also advisable before sowing. Deep drills drawn and filled with wood 
ashes, and in these sowing the seed, is a method that has been success¬ 
fully adopted by some cultivators. Plants raised in boxes under glass 
and transplanted often escape injury by the enemy. 
Camellia Buds Falling: QS. D."). —Defective root action is very 
frequently the cause of this, and it may be induced by a variety of 
circumstances, the most common cases occurring in plants that are 
placed outdoors after the buds are set. The pots from exposure to sun 
or drying atmospheric influences become heated or much dried, and 
the roots near the sides perish. Sometimes the soil becomes dry, and 
the plants suffer more outdoors on account of the greater evaporation 
from them than under glass. This causes a check, resulting in the 
buds being cast at a later period. A frequent cause of the buds 
falling is a saturated condition of the soil effected by rain during cold 
wet periods. Placing also outdoors causes the buds to be more or less 
indurated, so much so that their sap vessels become contracted, and the 
sap is diverted from the bloom to the wood buds, growth extending and 
buds falling in consequence. The sudden change, too, that the plants 
experience when placed under glass in the autumn, especially in a dry 
house, often causes the buds to fall, and to prevent this many gardeners 
syringe the plants, and keep the atmosphere somewhat moist for a time 
after housing. 
Fuff-balls In Mushroom Bed (Z. R.'). —The specimen sent is a 
Xiycoperdon. Probably all the British Puff-balls are wholesome when 
gathered young. If on opening them the substance is pulpy and white, 
it is in the right stage for dressing ; but if it be marked with yellowish 
stains, it is already too far advanced towards maturity, and must be 
rejected. They must be cooked quickly after gathering. Mr. Cooke 
gives a vivid account of the enjoyment afforded by one of these Puff¬ 
balls :—“ A gardener brought us a large Puff-ball, equal in size to a half¬ 
quartern loaf, and which was still in its young and pulpy state, of a 
beautiful creamy whiteness when cut. It had been found developing 
itself in a garden at Highgate, and to the finder its virtues were 
unknown. We had this specimen cut in slices of about half an inch in 
thickness, the outer skin peeled off, and each slice dipped in an egg, 
which had been previously beaten up, then sprinkled with bread-crumbs, 
and fried in butter, with salt and pepper. The result was exceedingly 
satisfactory ; and finding this immense fungus more than our family 
could consume while it remained fresh, we invited our friends to partake 
of it, and they were as delighted as ourselves with the new breakfast 
xelisb, to them, as to us, the first, but we hope not the last, experiment 
on a fried Puff-ball.” Puff-balls are, of course, not what you require 
but pink gilled Mushrooms ; and we can only attribute the presence 
of the interlopers to Lycoperdou spores in the soil or manure that have 
been employed in making the Mushroom beds. 
Asters In Pots (R. S. 0 .).— To grow Asters successfully in pots 
the seeds must be sown during March or early April (as you require the 
plants to bloom early or late) in pans, placing in gentle heat as that of 
a hotbed. When the plants appear keep them near the glass, and well 
ventilated to prevent drawing. Pot them singly in 3-inch pots, returning 
to the hotbed, and keeping rather close and shaded until established. 
After this admit air freely, the main points being to keep them slowly 
growing, and not allowing them to become pot-bound before removing 
into larger pots. If sown in March the plants will be strong and well 
hardened by the beginning of May. An 8-inch pot will meet the require¬ 
ments of single plants, a 9-inch trebles, and a 10-inch or 11-inch will 
answer for five plants. The soil may be composed of three parts turfy 
loam and a third of thoroughly decayed manure or leaf soil. The plants 
should be potted rather firmly in well-drained pots, and have a light and 
open situation if continued under glass, which we do not advise, but 
would assign them a sheltered position outdoors on ashes. After the 
plants fill the pots with roots water them with weak liquid manure. If 
sown during early April the plants will require their largest pots by the 
close of May or early in June. 
Rames of Plants.— We only undertake to name species of plants, 
not varieties that have originated from seed and termed florists’ flowers. 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fronds 
should bear spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm 
boxes. Slightly damp moss, soft green grass, or leaves form the best 
packing, dry wool the worst. Not more than six specimens can be named 
at once, and the numbers should be visible without untying the ligatures, 
it being often difficult to separate them when the paper is damp. 
(Z. Z,).—1, Euphorbia splendens ; 2, Adiantum Pacotti ; 3, Ficus 
repens. {F. S.). —1, Spiraea palmata ; 2, Prunus sinensis fl.-pl. (Z. <7.). 
—1, Cattleya Trianae; 2, Cypripedium Spicerianum ; 3, Dendrobium 
Wardianum. (Z7. 27.).—Cypripedium villosum, good form. {A. B.). 
—1, Cupressus Lawsoniana erecta viridis ; 2, Thujopsis dolabrata ; 
3, Retinospora plumosa aurea ; 4, Cotoneaster microphylla ; 5, Crypto- 
meria elegans ; 6, Garrya elliptica. 
OOVENT GARDEN MARKET. —February 6th. 
There has been practically no alteration since last week. Ttade very quiet owing 
to frost and short supplies of home produce. 
FRUIT. 
d. 
b. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
a. 
d 
Apples, per half sieve 
1 
6 
to 4 
6 
Lemons, case .. .. 
10 
0 to 15 
0 
„ Nova Scotia, per 
Peaches, per doz. ,. 
• • 
0 
0 
0 
0 
barrel. 
10 
0 
21 
0 
Plums, half sieve ., 
• • 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Grapes, per lb. 
1 
0 
a 
0 • 
St. Michael Pines, each 
• 
2 
0 
6 
0 
Cobi. per 100 lbs. 
20 
0 
21 
0 
Strawberries per lb. .. 
• • 
0 
0 
0 
0 
VEGETABLES. 
8. 
d. 
a. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Beans, Kidney, per lb. ,. 
0 
10 to 1 
0 
Mustard and Cress, punnet 
0 
a to 
0 
0 
Beet, Bed, dozen. 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Onions, bushel .. .. 
3 
6 
4 
0 
Carrots, bunch. 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Parsley, dozen bunches 
• « 
a 
0 
3 
0 
Cauliflowers, dozen .. .. 
1 
6 
3 
0 
Parsnips, dozen .. 
1 
0 
0 
B 
Celery, bundie . 
1 
0 
1 
3 
Potatoes, per owt. .. 
• • 
a 
0 
4 
0 
Ooleworts, dozen bunches 
a 
0 
4 
0 
Salsafy, bundle .. .. 
1 
0 
1 
5 
Cucumbers, dozen .. .. 
2 
0 
8 
0 
Seakale, per basket .. 
• • 
1 
3 
1 
9 
Endive, dozen . 
1 
3 
1 
6 
Scorzonera, bundle .. 
1 
6 
0 
0 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Shallots, per lb. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Spinach, bushel .. .. 
1 
6 
3 
0 
Lettuce, dozen .. 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Tomatoes.per lb. 
0 
2 
0 
6 
Mushrooms, punnet .. .. 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Turnips, bunch .. .. 
0 
3 
0 
4 
AVERAGE WHOLESALE 
PRICES.—OUT FLOWERS.—Orchid Blooms in variety. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
8 . 
d 
Lrum Lilies, 12 blooms .. 
Izalea, dozen sprays ,. .. 
i.sparagu3 Fern, per bunch 
Jouvardias, bunch .. .. 
tarnations, 12 blooms .. 
3hrysanthemums,doz.bohs. 
„ doz. blooms 
Daffodils, (dbl.),do7. bchs. 
„ (single), doz. bchs. 
Bucharis, dozen. 
Glardenias, per dozen 
Seranium, scarlet, doz. 
bunches. 
Lilac (French) per bunch 
Lilium longiflorum, per 
dozen . 
Marguerites, 12 bunches .. 
Maidenhair Fern, dozen 
bunches. 
Orchids, per dozen blooms 
Pelargoniums, 12 bunches 
Primula (dbl.), doz. sprays 
Arbor Vitae (golden) dozen 
Aspidistra, per dozen .. 
Aspidistra, specimen ant 
Chrysanthemums, per doz. 
,, large, per doz. 
Cyclamen, per dozen 
Dracaena, various, dozen .. 
Dracaena viridis, dozen .. 
Erica, various, per dozen ,. 
Euonymus, var., dozen .. 
Evergreens, in var., per 
dozen.. ., . 
4 0 to 6 
0 6 1 
12 0 
4 0 
Poinsettia, dozen blooms .. 4 
Pyrethrum, dozen bunches 2 
0 to 6 0 
Boses (indoor), dozen 
„ Tea, white, dozen 
„ Yellow, dozen ,. .. 
„ Safrano (Engli3h),doz, 
Mar6ehal Niel, doz... 
16 
0 
18 
0 
,’ (French), yellow, doz. 
24 
0 
30 
0 
blooms. 
1 
4 
0 
6 
0 
„ (French), Red, dozen 
6 
0 
8 
0 
blooms . 
2 
Smilax, per bunch .. .. 
4 
6 
0 
8 
0 
Stephanotis, dozen sprays 
4 
5 
0 
6 
0 
Tuberoses, 12 blooms.. .. 
U 
Violets (English), dozen 
6 
0 
9 
0 
bunches. 
I 
1 
6 
3 
0 
Violets (French), Parme, 
per bunch . 
5 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Violets (French), Czar, per 
1 
6 
12 
0 
bunch . 
2 
6 
0 
9 
0 
Violets (French), Victoria, 
0 
6 
1 
0 
dozen bunches. 
2 
PLANTS 
IN POTS. 
8. 
d. 
6. 
d. 
8. 
6 
0 to 12 
0 
Ferns, in variety, dozen .. 
4 
18 
0 
36 
0 
(small) per hundred 
4 
5 
0 
10 
6 
Ficus elastica, each .. .. 
1 
4 
0 
8 
0 
Foliage plants, var., each 
a 
9 
0 
18 
0 
Lycopodiums, per dozen .. 
3 
9 
0 
12 
0 
Marguerite Daisy, dozen .. 
6 
12 
0 
30 
0 
Myrtles, dozen. 
6 
9 
0 
18 
0 
Palms, in var., each ., .. 
1 
9 
0 
18 
0 
„ (specimens) .. .. 
21 
6 
0 
18 
0 
Poinsettia, per dozen 
10 
Primulas, per dozen .. .. 
4 
6 
0 
24 
0 
Solan lima, per doreu .. .. 
10 
1 6 
0 
0 
0 
4 
2 0 
« 0 
2 0 
2 6 
6 0 
6 0 
0 6 
2 6 
6 0 
4 0 
4 0 
d. s. d. 
OtoIS 0 
0 6 0 
7 0 
10 0 
4 0 
12 0 
9 0 
IS 0 
63 0 
15 0 
6 0 
12 0 
