150 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
February 14, 1895. 
WRK.foiithe week.. H 
FRUIT FORGING. 
Vines. — Early House. —The Vines in flower should have a tempera¬ 
ture of 60° to 65° at night, and 70° to 75° by day artificially, but 
Muscats require 5° more both day and night. A somewhat drier atmo¬ 
sphere, secured by freer ventilation rather than withholding moisture, 
favours the development of the organs of fructification. Care, however, 
must be taken in ventilating during severe and sharp weather, avoiding 
an inrush of cold air, which chills and stagnates the growths, producing 
rust in the berries and crumpled foliage. A genial atmosphere must be 
insured by keeping the floors sprinkled two or three times a day in 
bright weather, but occasionally only in dull periods. Any shy-setting 
kinds, such as Muscats and Buckland Sweetwater, may have the pollen 
distributed by a camel’s-hair brush, first brushing the bunches over 
lightly so as to dislodge the “caps,” and then follow with a brush 
surcharged with pollen from the free-setting varieties, such as Black 
Hamburgh. Stop the laterals below the fruit at the first leaf, and keep 
those stopped to one joint throughout the season, but those above the 
bunch may be allowed to make two or more joints, provided there is 
space for the full exposure of the foliage to light and air. Heavily 
cropped Vines make correspondingly little growth, and the Grapes 
frequently do not colour, because there is not sufficient chlorophyll 
developed, and matter stored for conversion at the time of ripening into 
the purple, black or amber colour. When Vines make little growth it 
is a good plan to reduce the Grapes early, so as to secure some growth 
in the laterals, and so keep the roots active, thus maintaining a good 
supply of nutriment. This is better than relying exclusively on 
stimulants, for the assimilative power depends on the amount of foliage 
exposed to the influences of light and air, and a moderate nourishing 
diet is far better than forcing and excessive amounts of rich food. 
Vines Started at the Neio Year .—The Vines are in leaf and 
showing the fruit in the points of the shoots. Do not hasten disbudding, 
but perform the operation gradually, removing the weak and least 
promising growths in the first instance, then give further attention when 
it is seen which shoots are likely to afford the best bunches. One bunch 
on a spur is as much as is likely to finish properly, but that is a very 
unsatisfactory estimate of the producing capabilities of the Vines, as 
the bunches are of different sizes; therefore judgment must be 
exercised, leaving no more than what is calculated to amount to a 
pound of Grapes when ripe per foot run of rod. Where the spurs 
are widely distant along the rod two shoots may be left on each 
spur, but one only must be allowed to bear fruit, the duplicate bunch 
only remaining until choice can be made of the better, and it is desirable 
to have the non-bearing growth nearest the rod, so that when the crop 
is cleared the most distant growth can be cut away, thus keeping 
the spur as short as possible, and the future crop produced by wood not 
previously decreased in vigour by heavy cropping. Weak Vines may 
be allowed more space so as to secure stouter wood, larger and plumper 
buds, and better bunches in the following season. When the growths 
are advanced about two or three joints beyond the bunches their points 
may be pinched off, this being effected when the leaf at the stopping 
joint is about the size of a halfpenny. Give the needful protection lu 
outside borders, keeping the soil from becominsr frozen. 
Vines to Afford Ripe Orapes in July and Avgust.—Th.Q Vines must 
now be started, and as they break more evenly and strongly when 
assured a moist, genial atmosphere, damp the rods two or three times a 
day in bright weather and sprinkle other surfaces. Occasional damping 
will only be necessary in dull weather, avoiding such syringing as keeps 
the rods constantly dripping with moisture, for the tendency in that 
case IS to promote the emission of aerial roots, which certainly appro¬ 
priate stored-up food and hinder the formation of roots in the border 
A temperature of 50° at night, 55° by day, and 65° from sun heat is 
suitable until the buds begin to move. Bring the inside border into a 
thoroughly moist but not saturated condition by repeated waterino^s 
with tepid water, and if the Vines are weak and the soil open afford°a 
supply of liquid manure after it is watered sufficiently for healthy 
growth. The soil will then retain most of the manorial elements, and 
they will pass into an assimilable form, or such aa is available for taking 
in by the roots, and will accelerate root activity as well as supply 
nourishment. The outside borders should have sufficient protection to 
prevent chill, a little stable litter being all that is required. Avoid 
thick coverings of manure, particularly when likely to settle into a close 
mass to the exclusion of light, air, and warmth. Give preference to 
rather lumpy, partially decayed material, which will admit of the free 
access of air. 
Late Houses. The Vines being cleared of the Grapes early in 
January, then pruned, dressed, and the structures thoroughly cleaned, 
afterwards removing the loose surface soil and supplying a top-dressing 
of fresh loam with an admixture of fertilising ingredients, they will be 
ready for starting whenever desired, as they will have the wounds made 
in pruning so healed as to prevent bleeding and derive benefit from the 
complete rest. The varieties taking a long time to grow and mature 
perfectly, such as Gros Colman, Gros Guillaume, Trebbiano, and Mrs. 
Pince, must be started in good time, so as to give them the benefit of 
the summer for developing and maturing their crops. A start should 
therefore be made without further delay, as it is essential to the perfect¬ 
ing of the Grapes, especially those subjected to the highest cultivation, 
that the Vines be started so as to be perfectly finished by the middle of 
September. Strong rods should be brought into a horizontal position or 
lower, and a good break secured by maintaining a genial condition of 
the atmosphere, and syringing the Vines occasionally in dull, or two or 
three times a day in bright weather. A temperature of 50° to 55° at 
night and on dull days, with 10° advance from sun heat, will be suffi¬ 
cient until the buds break, then allow 5° to 10° more by day, husbanding 
the sun heat by early closing, but losing no opportunity of ventilating 
freely in the early part of the day, so as to secure sturdy growth and 
well developed stout foliage. Nevertheless, avoid chills and sudden 
depressions or fluctuations of temperature, which by alternating ten¬ 
dencies of crippling and provoking growth seriously impair the health of 
the Vines, and it is seen later in the indifferent doing of the crop. 
Ripe Grapes. —Avoid fire heat as much as possible in the Grape 
room, but the severe weather has necessitated recourse to constant 
firing, and moisture is apt to be drawn out and deposited on the 
cooler surfaces of the Grapes. This sometimes results in “spot,” 
both with and without fungal growth, for it is certain that without the 
moisture the fungoid germs could not develop, and their germinal 
tubes not enter the tissues of the Grapes until the cuticles were 
weakened, if not actually ruptured, by the contact and continued 
presence of the moisture. A little air will prevent such accumulation 
of water on the berries, and the Grapes will not shrivel unless the 
evaporation be excessive and the temperature high. An equal tempera¬ 
ture of about 45° is most suitable, and the less light the Grapes receive 
the longer they will retain their colour. As the water in the bottles 
diminishes it should be replenished with clear soft water, taking care to 
avoid spilling any or allowing drops to fall on the Grapes, 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Acacia lopbantha. —Young plants of this graceful Acacia will be 
found of the greatest service for dotting among tuberous Begonias, 
Verbenas, Violas, and such like, and also for large mixed beds. The 
seed is very hard, and in order to hasten germination soak it in a bottle 
or jar of water till it has softened and swollen considerably, when it 
should be placed singly in 2-inch pots and peaty soil, previously warmed 
through, and plunged in a brisk bottom heat. Thus treated the seed is 
not slow in germination, and if the seedlings are given one good shift 
before they become badly root-bouni they will be ready for cooler 
quarters towards the end of April, and for bedding out early in June. 
Antirrhinums and Pentstemons. — These may well receive 
identical treatment. Both well deserve to be more generally bedded 
out, especially where they are kept in separate colours. Cuttings may 
be rooted by hundreds or thousands in the autumn, and kept through 
the winter in frames, selected stocks of Pentstemons being similarly 
treated. Seeds should be sown at once, and it will then be possible 
to have strong plants ready for bedding out in May. 
Alpine Auriculas.— A packet of seed obtained from a reliable 
source should give a number of good varieties, and in order to have 
strong plants for flowering next season no time should be lost in 
sowing in well-drained pans filled with sandy loam, given a gentle 
watering, and allowed to drain two or three hours. The gentle moist 
heat of a mild hotbed best favours early germination. Sometimes the 
seedlings appear in the course of three weeks, and with some show of 
regularity ; but more often than not they come up singly, and at long 
intervals apart, the last showing six or more months from the date 
of sowing. The strongest may be placed singly in thumb pots. Avoid 
coddling the young plants. They succeed best under frame culture till 
they are strong enough for the open. 
Cannas. —A packet of seed of Crozy’s hybrids will give several 
superior flowering varieties, but a collection of well established plants 
of named varieties would prove a feature if grouped in a large bed next 
summer. They flower finely in the open, and if carefully lifted and 
repotted will continue flowering in a warm conservatory during the rest 
of the year. Pot plants after receiving a rest of a few weeks will when 
started in gentle heat push several suckers, all of which can usually 
be detached with a few strong roots attached. Potted singly into 
sizes that comfortably hold the roots and kept in heat, serviceable plants 
would be ready for the beds early in June. The seed is remarkably hard, 
and must be softened as advised in the case of Acacia lophantha prior to 
sowing it in pans of warm peaty soil. From small pots the young plants 
may be shifted into 5-inch, and if kept growing in heat will be quite 
large enough for the beds in June. 
Sabllas. —Newly rooted plants with a single stem and turned out of 
a 5-inch pot are greatly to be preferred to divided old roots with three 
or four shoots apiece. Start a few old roots of the best varieties in 
gentle heat, and abundance of young shoots will soon be produced. When 
about 4 inches or rather less in length take each off with a thin heel of 
old bark and place singly in thumb pots, a little sand being placed at the 
base of each. Set them in frames or hand-lights over a rather dry 
bottom heat and there will be few failures, removing to cooler quarters 
before the plants become drawn, and repotting early in larger pots. 
Dahlia seed germinates readily when sown in pans and placed in a 
brisk heat. If pricked out thinly in boxes the plants would move very 
well out of these, or the seedlings may be placed singly in 2^-inch pots; 
