February 21, 1895. 
JOURNAL OF HORTIGULTULE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
173 
Houses Started Early in February .—The trees are now coming 
into flower. Syringing over the trees mast cease ; indeed, it should be 
discontinued when the blossoms show colour. Nevertheless, maintain 
sufficient moisture by damping the paths and borders two or three times 
a day as weather may indicate as advisable, avoiding a close stagnant 
atmosphere. If the flowers are numerous thin them by rubbing the 
hand downwards on the under side or back of the growths, which will 
strengthen the remainder. Examine the trees closely, and if there are 
any aphides fumigate with tobacco or vapourise with nicotine, so as to 
destroy them before the flowers expand. Continue the temperature at 
40° to 45° at night and 50° by day, above which ventilate freely. When 
the flowers expand raise the temperature to 50° at night, 55° by day 
artificially, and 60° to 65° from sun heat with free ventilation. On cold 
nights the temperature may fall to 45° or even to 40°, also 50° by day in 
dull cold weather, allowing a little ventilation constantly at the top of 
the house. 
Cherry House.— The temperature having been maintained at 40° 
to 45° at night and about 50° in the daytime regularly, the trees started 
in December will be going out of flower, and the fruit having set may 
have the night temperature slightly advanced ; while trees started early 
in the year and forced for the first time will be rapidly unfolding their 
buds. Before the flowers expand the house should be fumigated, as 
aphiles are almost certain to be present, but the fumigations must be 
done carefully or the blossoms will be more or less injured. An applica¬ 
tion of rather strong quassia water (4 ozs. chips to a gallon of water 
boiled for a quarter of an hour) will answer the same purpose, repeating 
it at intervals of a day or two. The temperatures named above must 
not be exceeded, ventilation commencing at 50°, more freely at 55°, and 
an advance above 60° to 65° not allowed without the fullest amount of 
air. Keep water from the blossoms, but secure a genial atmosphere by 
damping the paths and borders occasionally. Maintain the soil in a 
thoroughly moist, but not sodden condition, and supply water to trees 
in pots as required. 
Cucumbers.— Plants in bearing require looking over about twice a 
week, removing bad leaves, cutting out exhausted growths, thinning 
the shoots, stopping these one or two joints beyond tbe fruit, or leaving 
more growth where there is space, and removing old and deformed fruits. 
By thinning the old growths room will be provided for young succes- 
sional bearing shoots, and keeping the growing parts fairly thin the 
plants will fruit better and be of much better quality. In securing the 
young shoots to the trellis do not tie them too tightly, but allow room 
for development. Plants that have been in bearing some time should 
have the surface soil removed, and previously warmed fresh soil added. 
Turfy loam, with a fourth of well-decayed manure and a little quick¬ 
lime and soot mixed through the compost, is suitable. This will 
encourage abundance of surface roots, and then the plants can be fed to 
any extent by liquid applications, or preferably chemical manures 
washed in. The bottom heat should not be allowed to fall below 75°, 
nor exceed 90°; top heat 65° to 70° at night, 5° less in severe weather, 
70° to 75° by day artificially, rising to 85° or 90° with sun, closing 
soon after midday, so as to secure and maintain for some time a 
temperature of 90° to 95°, or even 100°. Damp the pathways and walls 
in the morning, at closing time, or early in the afternoon, and again 
later. An occasional light syringing may be indulged in on bright 
mornings or at closing time. Keep the evaporation troughs filled with 
liquid manure, or damp the pathway with it at the time of closing the 
house, but take care to use it weak, or the ammonia evolved may do 
irreparable injury to the foliage. 
SHelons.— The young plants have made sturdy but not very free 
growth, being retarded by the severe weather. If not planted out this 
should be done before they become root-bound, forming a ridge the whole 
length of the bed and about 2 feet wide at the base, with the top flat¬ 
tened so as to give a depth of 10 to 12 inches. Hillocks may be formed 
with a similar base and depth at about 2^ to 3 feet apart from centre to 
centre, the soil being made firm, and when warmed through the plants 
may be turned out, pressing the compost well about the balls and raising 
it to within an inch of the seed leaves. The plants may be placed 
or 3 feet apart, the leading or primary shoots being taken up without 
stopping until fully two-thirds up the trellis, then pinch off the point of 
each. Remove the laterals when discernible up to the trellis, and rub 
oflE every alternate one on opposite sides of the stem, and when the 
laterals have made three or four leaves pinch off the points. Some 
varieties show fruit on the first laterals, and as early fruit is a consider¬ 
ation let them remain, fertilising the blossom and taking off tbe point 
of the shoot one joint beyond. After stopping the first laterals fruit 
will show freely on the second at the second or third joint, the growths 
being trained evenly and tbinly so that every part of the trellis is 
covered with foliage and fruit. The plants require watering moderately 
in the early stages of growth, little being required as yet, nevertheless 
maintain the soil in a moist state. Sprinkle the pathways and walls on 
bright days, and again at closing time or early in the afternoon. Venti¬ 
late carefully, avoiding cold currents of air, and when the external air is 
cold place some hexagon netting over the openings, so as to break the 
■force of the cutting winds. Maintain a night temperature of 65° to 70°. 
falling to 65° or 60° in the morning, 70° to 75° by day, rising to 80° or 90° 
from sun heat, closing early so as to secure and retain 90° to 100° of the 
•solar warmth ; bottom heat 80° to 85°. 
Melons in Pits and Frames .—Where Melon plants from early sowings 
P^3,nted in these structures, and trained over the surface of the 
beds, tbe plants should be stopped at the second leaf, which will give 
"two or more shoots ; but two are ample, rubbing off the others. These 
shoots stopped at the second or third leaf will furnish two or more each, 
but four are ample for ordinary sized lights, and a plant in the centre of 
each. Take two to the front and the same to the back of the framed 
pit, and rub off any shoots that proceed from nearer the stem, it being 
important that no lateral be formed nearer to it than 6 inches. Stop 
the principal shoots when within 15 inches of the sides of the pit or 
frame ; this will concentrate the vigour on the laterals, which will 
show fruit at the second or third joint, which should be fertilised and 
the shoots stopped one joint beyond. Cover the lights with double mats 
at night, and see that the linings are regularly attended to, renewing 
the old ones as required. Prepare material for making fresh beds. 
About a fortnight before it is desired to do so the manure and leaves 
should be thoroughly incorporated, using about two-thirds leaves to one 
of stable litter. In a few days the heap, if properly moistened and 
mixed, will become warm ; if not turn the whole, sprinkling with water 
or liquid manure so as to moisten it, and when in good heat turn again, 
outside to inside, two or three such turnings at intervals of about four 
days being necessary, when it will have parted with rank steam and be 
fit for making up the beds. 
Strawberries In Pots.— The earliest-forced plants will need the 
fruit supporting by forked twigs of Birch thrust into the soil, the stem 
of the truss being placed in the fork so that the fruit hangs clear of the 
pot or soil. It will thus acquire better colour and quality, and be in 
less danger of damping. Later succeeding batch of plants having the 
fruit fairly set will need attention in removing all deformed fruits, 
leaving the most promising and in number proportionate to the vigour 
of the plant and variety is calculated to attain first-class size and 
perfection. The swelling should be aided by copious supplies of liquid 
manure. The temperature should be 60° to 65° at night, 70° to 75° by 
day, with gleams of sun and moderate ventilation, advancing 5° to 10° 
on bright days. Avoid drying currents of air, as they injuriously affect 
the swelling of the fruit. Examine the plants twice a day for water, 
giving it only to those in need of a supply, and always so as to moisten 
the soil through to the drainage. Keep successional plants free from 
aphides, taking care to have them quite clean by the time the flowers 
open. British Queen and other late forcing varieties may now be intro¬ 
duced, at the same time starting proportionate quantities of the midseason 
or second early varieties, such as Sir Joseph Paxton, to maintain the 
succession of fruit unbroken. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Eulalias.— Plants that have enjoyed a good rest may have the old 
soil shaken from their roots and be repotted. If increased stock is 
needed the roots may be divided and potted in any size most suitable 
for furnishing purposes. These plants do well in good loam, one- 
seventh of manure, and sand. After potting place them in a warm 
moist house, and they will quickly start into growth. Those required 
for autumn decoration should be retarded by keeping them in a position 
where they will not grow, and on the dry side at their roots. 
Fucbslas. —Young plants that have been wintered in a temperature 
of 45° to 55° may now be pushed forward, and be placed into 5-inch 
pots. In a temperature 10° higher they will soon make a start, and 
will be useful early in the season. Plants that have commenced to 
grow in early vineries or Peach houses may be repotted, the old soil 
being shaken from the roots, and the plants placed in slightly smaller 
pots than those they are intended to flower in. These plants do well in 
a compost of good loam three parts to one of leaf mould, one-seventh 
of old Mushroom bed refuse may be added, and a liberal quantity of 
coarse sand, the whole being warmed before use. 
Araucaria excelsa. —This plant will grow rapidly if given an 
intermediate temperature, though it does very well in a cool house. If 
kept too close the plants become tall and weak at the base. This plant 
needs a fair amount of root room in its early stages, and succeeds well 
in good loam, one-third leaf mould, one-seventh of manure and coarse 
sand. Syringe the plants freely, as thrips often appear if kept in a dry 
place. 
Aralla Sleboldl.— For cold, draughty places where many plants 
would not do this will stand, and if cared for will make a very hand¬ 
some specimen. If possible, a well-furnished plant should be started 
with ; even seedlings make splendid plants, because when their lower 
leaves fall the stem is practically hid by the drooping nature of the 
leaves. During the winter when used in rooms, halls, or similar posi¬ 
tions, the plant should be kept on the dry side at its roots. 
Bouvardlas.— Plants that were placed in pits may be lifted, cut 
over, and packed closely together in boxes amongst leaf mould and 
sand. These, if stood on the pipes in a warm house and kept fairly 
moist, will soon start into growth. Where an increased stock is needed 
take off some of the strongest roots, cut them into lengths, and insert 
tw’o or three pieces in a thumb pot. A capital plan is to raise a few 
plants from roots annually. When this plan is followed the stock 
planted out or even grown in pots can, after they have done flowering, 
be thrown away. The young plants in boxes would then be cut over at 
this season of the year, and started again in growth, the same as advised 
for plants lifted from pits. 
Frunus sinensis. —As plants go out of flower they should be 
pruned close back, and placed in a Peach house at work to start into 
growth. If the pots are full of roots, and when the plants have com¬ 
menced growth, the old balls may be slightly reduced and the plants 
repotted in the same size pots. Good loam and one-seventh of manure 
will suit these plants well. If the plants are not repotted two or three 
applications of chemical manure may be given during the season of 
growth. 
