March 7, l89». 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
211 
G. Magnet. 
Were any argument needed to disarm those who object to the 
improvement of the Snowdrop, a powerful one would be supplied by 
this fine flower—one of Mr. James Allen’s seedlings. It is true it 
possesses one feature which causes one some debate as to whether it is 
an improvement or not; this is its tendency to produce two flowers on 
a fasciated stalk. We are familiar with more than one flower on the 
scape of a Snowflake, but this is a rare occurrence with a Snowdrop, 
although it occurs with an exceptional variety. I must confess to being 
in a strait between two opinions, these being whether to consider this 
an improvement or a defect in an otherwise very beautiful flower. The 
two flowers are not invariably but are commonly produced in this 
variety, and they are so large, of such good form, and of so much sub¬ 
stance that G. Magnet must be considered a great acquisition. It is of 
the nivalis type, and the scapes and leaves are quite in proportion to 
the size of the flowers. 
G. LtTTESCENS. 
This is one of what are known as the “ Yellow Snowdrops,” and 
which are so called, not from the colour of the flower, but from the 
markings which are usually green being yellow. The ovary is also a 
rich yellow, and the flower stalks assume a yellowish colour. The variety 
under notice was found about eighteen years ago in an old garden in 
Northumberland. It is very beautiful and very distinct, but is un¬ 
fortunately small, delicate in constitution, and slow of increase. I have 
only had this variety for about three years, and it did not flower with 
me until last season. It is well worthy of a place in the choicest garden, 
and will be universally admired for its delicate beauty. 
G. Sharloki. 
This singular variety is interesting from the time it first appears 
through the soil. Not that all Snowdrops are not interesting, even in 
their earliest stages, protected as they are by their spathes from defile¬ 
ment as they pierce through the earth, but this one is particularly so 
from the spathe being divided. When it comes into view the divisions 
are separate, and look very curious as they advance, being like two 
small green horns. The singular appearance is then added to by the 
flowers, which, with the green markings on the outside of the outer 
segments, look at this stage like little white balls streaked with green. 
The flowers when at their full size are not so attractive, the green 
streaks giving them a dingy look, but, on the other hand, the twin 
spathes look very peculiar, and add to the interest of the flower. 
G. Sharloki is of the nivalis type, and was named by Professor Caspary 
of Koenigsberg in honour of its discoverer, Herr Julius Sharlok of 
Grandenz, who found it growing wild in some copses in the valley of 
the Nahe, a tributary of the Ehine. It is a very good grower, and 
flowers quite freely.—S. Abnott. 
SPAWNING MUSHROOM BEDS. 
Though I do not consider myself an expert, I should very much like 
to give my experience on this subject. Like your first correspondent, 
who signs himself “ Mushroom,” I would be glad to gather from 
gardeners and growers of greater knowledge and longer practice than 
myself a clue to the causes of the partial failures that I have 
experienced. 
The first Mushroom bed that I made was a very off-hand affair—two 
loads of long stable manure made into a flat bed about a foot in depth. 
This was spawned at once with spawn of my own making. Rough 
protection of old frame lights placed over it was afforded, and it was 
not soiled or cased in any way. This was in a shady north-east corner 
of a field. The Mushrooms came quickly, of good substance, and in 
patches or bunches a foot across. This bed was not made firm, but 
exactly as gardeners make up a little warmth for sowing tender annuals 
in the spring—in fact, part of the bed was used for that purpose. This 
bed was made in March, and came into bearing in about a month, and 
the crop continued until the heavy rains of July swamped it. 
I have since read that useful work, Wright’s “ Mushrooms for the 
Million,” and I now follow as closely as possible the routine that he 
advises, making my beds in the ridge form—in fact, I follow out all the 
instructions to the letter, and it is not too much to say that I have in 
one or two instances proved that his estimate of the produce per yard of 
bed can be realised sometimes. “ J. W. K.” (page 167) considers the 
beds can be made too hard. I have thought so myself, but in making a 
ridge Mr. Wright says, “ If the ridge is made as it should be, you will 
not be able, in making the ventilation holes, to make them with a 
wooden stake, but an iron rod will be needed.” I always require the 
iron for this purpose, and if beds can be too solid, then certainly I could 
never have realised ISs. per yard on a 90-feet ridge, the price per lb. 
averaging 9d. 
I mention this fact merely to show that I hold the practice described 
in the little book to be sound, and I cannot think in my case hardness 
of material causes the condition of things 1 will now describe. I have 
found the beds to show well and come into bearing in about six or eight 
weeks, but the Mushrooms though sufficient in numbers are small, light, 
and flimsy ; nor do I think the flavour so good as when larger and thicker. 
Where a cluster of six or more appears one Mushroom only takes the 
lead, and the others fade away ; also I find that at the least touch they 
fall, whereas on strong beds it requires a good pull to gather them. The 
last and crowning misfortune in this category being, the beds last about 
six weeks instead of three months ; I have had some last five months. I 
am aware that some of my friends (gardeners) think beds lasting six 
weeks are not to be found fault with, but manure, labour, and rent are 
a great item, and unless you secure a full crop Mushrooms will not pay 
to grow. 
I agree with “J. W. K.” that good spawn is absolutely necessary, 
and my object in writing will have been gained if any one of your 
readers can tell how we can assure ourselves whether the spawn be 
good or inferior. This is one of the cases where the buyer must take 
the seller on his good faith and chance the results. To illustrate this 
point, an acquaintance of mine, a very smart gardener and a good 
Mushroom grower, once told me that he could not tell Mushroom spawn 
by its appearance, but he was very certain of its quality by the smell. 
I know that his smell misled him in the purchase of spawn, for we 
both dealt with the same producer. My friend bad no Mushrooms at 
all, while I had crops which at least paid for my spawn and labour. I 
have thought that possibly there may be different varieties, some bearing 
culture better than others, and therefore I would not say a word that 
may be thought to be a reflection on the honesty of dealers in Mushroom 
spawn. I am a very old subscriber to the Journal, and I consider the 
present query by “ Mushroom ” to be as interesting as any now before 
your readers.— Thos. Gardner, North End, Hampstead, 
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 
[Extract from a Paper by Mr. J. LOCK.] 
Foremost among the plants I purpose mentioning must be placed 
the hard wooded greenhouse species, which in beauty cannot be excelled 
by any others, not even excepting the numerous family of Orchids, with 
their many varied forms and rich hues of colour. That Cattleyas, 
OJontoglossums, Dendrobiums, and Cypripediums are all possessed of 
universal attractions I admit, and so, too, are Ericas, Aphelexes, 
Phoenocomas, Hedaromas, Boronias, Pimeleas, and the elegantly 
beautiful Leschenaultia biloba major. A good plant of the last-named 
once seen will long be remembered, but unfortunately, along with the 
majority of the choice Cape and New Holland plants, the Leschenaultia 
in the form of large specimens is becoming more rare every year, and 
is now seldom seen at exhibitions. 
It is much to be regretted that these old-time favourites are now 
pushed aside by more easily grown and freer-flowering, softwooded 
plants. True, we occasionally meet with a few wretched looking, stunted 
specimens, but much as I admire them when well grown, I frankly 
confess in such cases I would prefer their places being filled with 
Pelargoniums or similar plants, and the more valuable, but, when badly 
treated, less attractive Heaths consigned to the rubbish heap. 
I shall confine my remarks on houses to very few words, as in the 
majority of cases gardeners have to accept and make the best of 
structures already existing, and many are the expedients resorted to, 
especially by exhibitors, to give their charges more congenial accommo¬ 
dation than the houses at their disposal readily furnish. Where new 
houses are being erected they should be span-roofed, and in every case 
have fairly large squares of glass and a correspondingly small amount of 
woodwork, so that light may be freely admitted. Even for shade- 
loving plants such structures are the best, for during bright weather 
they can be protected from the sun’s rays, whereas nothing can remedy 
a deficiency of sunlight, and for at least five months of the year most 
of the plants we cultivate would be benefited by more light than our 
climate affords. 
Ample means of ventilation should be provided, especially in green¬ 
houses, for in genial weather it is hardly possible to admit air too freely, 
although cold currents rushing directly on the plants must be carefully 
avoided, draughts being at all times decidedly injurious. Greenhouses 
should have sashes on both sides made to open the whole length of the 
structure, also on both sides the ridge of the roof. The occupants of 
the stove do not require so much air at any time of the year, and 
ventilators in the roof are all that are needed. As the heat of the sun’s 
rays increase it will be necessary to admit a little ventilation, but great 
care must be exercised in so doing, or the tender growths will be quickly 
injured thereby. 
Very few greenhouse plants require shade, except perhaps to prolong 
or retard their season of blooming, but amongst those grown m stoves a 
large number are benefited by protection from hot sunshine. For 
supplying this nothing equals roller blinds worked by means of cords 
and pulleys, and so adjusted that they may be easily worked up and 
down. The material forming the blinds may be thick or thin, according 
to the requirements of the plants grown underneath. 
I come now to what I consider the most important point in the 
cultivation of plants under glass—namely, the application of water to 
their roots. More plants are injured by an injudicious use of the water- 
pot than from any other cause. Some quickly show signs of distress if 
allowed to become too dry at the roots, but generally speaking, far more 
evil is done by a too liberal application of water, particularly to plants 
recently potted. In the case of stove plants, on which the syringe can 
be more freely used than on those in greenhouses, it is often advisable 
to withhold water from the roots for several days after repotting, pro¬ 
vided the soil used is in proper condition with regard to moisture. 
It is impossible to lay down any hard and fast rules for watering, 
as no two plants are likely to require precisely the same amount. I 
would strongly impress upon the minds of young gardeners that a 
thorough knowledge of this important point in plant culture is absolutely 
necessary, and consequently too much attention cannot be given it by 
