212 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
March 7 1I>S. 
those who desire to become proficient. Study the requirements of the 
different plants, also the nature of the compost used in potting. Loam 
Taries considerably in different localities, and it is to this I particularly 
allude. Sometimes loam is of so heavy and retentive a nature that the 
application of water necessary to maintain plants grown therein is little 
short of a fine art. Such soils should be allowed to reach a degree of 
dryness before giving water that in leas retentive loam would be 
dangerous, if not fatal. 
There are a few plants to which it may safely be said it is impossible 
to give too much water when growing freely, and foremost among those 
are the Anthuriums. When given a compost consisting of one-half peat 
fibre, with all the dust shaken out, one-half broken crocks and charcoal, 
with a surfacing of living sphagnum moss, and the pots partially filled 
with crocks, Anthuriums cannot be over-watered. The other extreme 
is found among the hardwooded greenhouse plants, which require more 
careful attention in this respect than any other species that I am 
acquainted with. If a Petunia or Pelargonium be allowed to flag 
through want of moisture, or, on the other hand, kept too wet for a 
time, although it may be injured it will recover ; but subject a Hedaroma 
or Leschenaultia to similar treatment and it will not long survive. In 
the case of Heaths, the softwooded varieties, such as hyemalis and 
E weriana, require to be watered with a freedom that would prove fatal in 
the case of the short-growing hardwooded varieties, of which remulaand 
Marnockiana are fair examples. In cultivating Primulas, especially the 
double varieties, which are mostly propagated from cuttings, there is 
often found a disposition to damp off at the collar. This is frequently 
attributed to an unsuitable position, or otherwise regarded as constitu¬ 
tional, but generally, I am convinced, the cause might be traced to 
defective watering. 
HUMEA ELEGANS. 
This handsome decorative plant, once so popular for flower garden 
and conservatory adornment, for some time almost fell out of cultiva¬ 
tion, and was rarely seen in collections, where by its gracefulness it 
would have added much to make an elegant finish to floral arrange¬ 
ments. So scarce did this plant become that one season it was impossible 
to obtain seeds ©f it from the leading nurserymen. This was doubtless 
owing to the fact that unless it is managed with judicious care during 
the winter months it has a great tendency to turn yellow, and eventu¬ 
ally wither and die. In many instances this is brought about by 
endeavouring to grow the plants in too large pots, and supplying them 
with a superabundance of water. During a long experience in Humea 
culture I have seen collections of well-grown plants, all in splendid 
condition when placed in their winter quarters, droop away one by 
one, and die till when the spring came round, only a few were left 
in a healthy state. 
It was doubtless owing to such failures that many gardeners dis¬ 
continued the culture of Humeas, and but for the tenacity of a few of 
their admirers they would have ceased to figure in the list of greenhouse 
plants. Kecently Humeas have again increased in popularity, and now 
in many establishments are largely cultivated. Many growers make a 
great mistake in sowing the seeds too early. The plants then make too 
much growth during the current season, whereas it is much more 
beneficially made the following spring. By sowing seeds early, say in 
April or May, robust growth is made during the summer, and to keep 
the foliage green larger pots must be given as required, until by October 
the plants are from 12 to 18 inches in height. Daring the dull months 
that follow growth for a time ceases ; the large pots are often only 
partially full of roots, so that by injudicious watering the soil becomes 
sour, and consequently the tender roots decay. This is quickly followed 
by loss of foliage, and if the plants surviye, by the next summer, instead 
of being sturdy and clothed with bright green leaves to the pots, they 
are bare, and produce indifferent sprays of flower. 
If the seeds are sown in June better results may be expected to 
follow. They should be sown thinly in shallow boxes or pans, scattering 
a little fine soil over them, and placing in a moist atmosphere where 
they can be shaded from the strong rays of the sun. Humea seeds are 
often a considerable time in germinating, but after the plants appear, and 
are large enough to be handled, they should be placed singly in small 
pots and kept in a medium temperature to encourage sturdy growth. 
Being ardent growers a further potting will soon be necessary, using a 
good compost of fibrous loam, leaf mould, and sand, with a little 
decayed manure. If placed in 6 or 7-inch pots late in the summer they 
will be in good condition to undergo the trials of the winter. Plants so 
treated do not make rapid growth, and are usually in good condition 
for the final shift in spring. They may be flowered in 9 or 10-inch 
pots, according to size of the plants, using moderately rich soil. A 
cool greenhouse temperature suits them admirably, an occasional 
fumigating being necessary to check the ravages of green fly. Another 
pest which attacks Humeas is a grub which eats away the leaves, as in 
the case of Marguerites. A strict watch must therefore be kept, and if 
any are noticed they should at once be destroyed by crushing between 
the thumb and finger, or if allowed to accumulate they will ruin the 
plants. 
When the pots are full of roots, liquid manure aids the plants 
materially, and their long feathery spikes prove a great acquisition for 
conservatory decoration in the summer. Humeas are equally ornamental 
in the flower garden by plunging the pots in the beds, and staking to 
assist the plants to withstand the strong winds.—G. H. H. 
The Chrysanthemum Year Book. 
Mr. C. H. Payne is evidently reaping the customary reward of those 
who in a generous spirit try to perform onerous and responsible duties 
from their good nature. Why do not these critics of the Editor of the 
Year Book say in plain terms what they mean, and assert that Mr. 
Payne has been guilty of gross favouritism, for that seems to be the 
kind of imputation sought to be conveyed? Will any of these critics 
undertake either to edit the Year Book, getting for such labour scant 
acknowledgement, no pay, and no thanks, but plenty of kicks, or even 
to expend much time and some money to prepare articles and then 
receive absolutely no thanks whatever from the Society whose coffers 
the book is enriching? There is a fine field open here for the grumblers 
who are so numerous in the Chrysanthemum world, and whose human 
nature peeps out in the most unpleasant fashion. 
The Committee, now that this body has been newly constituted, 
should show its confidence in their Editor by not merely voting this to 
him, but making a grant that would be even more expressive. After 
doing that perhaps the same body of gentlemen may next condescend 
to tender thanks to the various contributors for the good help they have 
rendered to the first issue of the Year Book. That has not been done 
yet—a mere oversight it may be assumed on the part of the executive 
of the N.C.S., and the act of courtesy will no doubt ba soon performed. 
As a contributor who did his best for the Year Book I await the action 
of the executive with much interest.—A. Dean. 
RANUNCULUSES. 
Many years ago the Ranunculus was a very popular flower, and the 
varieties raised by the late Mr. Tyso of Wallingford, Berks, had a great 
reputation. Old florists, such as the late Mr. Richard Headly, grew fine 
collections of them, and the long bed at Stapleford, Cambridge, was a 
sight worth seeing at the blooming time. This plant is of easy culture 
when understood, and the blooms are so beautiful and so admirable for 
indoor decoration that I am induced to ask your readers to give attention 
to the Ranunculus as a hardy border plant, and with that view to give 
a few cultural instructions as practised many years ago by a very 
successful cultivator. 
A bed was prepared early in the autumn where moderate drainage 
was provided, and well decayed manure free from worms and insects 
was dug in to the depth of 15 to 18 inches. The bed was levelled, and 
about 3 or 4 inches of finer soil placed on the top, a compost in which 
well-decayed leaf soil and a little sand were mixed, but a good strong 
loam suits them best. The surface was made moderately firm, and the 
small claw-shaped roots were pressed into the soil to the depth of 
2 inches and then made firm. Planting of one bed was done in October 
or early in November, and another early in the spring; in fact, planting 
may be done as late as April. 
Soil is not of such great importance to the Ranunculus as moisture 
and full exposure to the sun. Some persons plant under the impression 
that shade is best for them, but this is not so. The rows may be about 
8 or 9 inches apart, with the roots 4 inches asunder in the rows, and 
during the growing and flowering season in dry weather an ample 
iupply of water between the rows should be given night and morning, 
so as to secure abundance of moisture in the soil, the more of it, the 
better they like it. A mulching of cow or other decayed manure 
between the rows helps them materially. 
After blooming, and the foliage has decayed, the roots should be 
lifted and kept in a dry place until planting-out time again. They can 
be purchased at such a cheap rate that no garden need be without 
some. There are scarlets, yellow, citron-coloured, carmine, and almost 
black, all of which can be bought at an average price of Ss. 6J. per 100, 
A beautiful white variety is dearer. Then there are larger flowered 
kinds, known as the Giant French varieties, which are very free bloomers 
and handsome, and these, I think, can be readily obtained at about 
53. per 100.—W, D. 
THREE GOOD CLERODENDRONS. 
Although Clerodendrons comprise a large number of separate 
species it is not my intention to dilate on each variety individually, for 
to do so would occupy more time and space than the limits of my paper 
will afford. I will therefore restrict myself to a few remarks pertaining 
to three of the best and most useful varieties only—viz., C. Thomsonae, 
C. splendens speciosissima, and G. fallax. In habit and growth there 
are two distinct sections, one being of a climbing and the other of a 
shrubby nature. The first two both belong to the climbing varieties. 
C, Thomsonse, or Balfourianum, as it is more often called, on account 
of the brilliancy of its flowers, together with the great freedom with 
which they are produced, is undoubtedly the most widely cultivated. The 
flowers, which are disposed in large panicles, are of a beautiful bright 
crimson colour, with calyces of pure white, and when seen to perfection 
