216 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
March 7, 1895. 
planting from one position to another. With such as these it is neces¬ 
sary to adopt closer pruning than is essential when a tree can be removed 
with comparatively little Joss of fibres. The object of pruning after 
planting is to induce moderately vigorous growth equally over the trees 
in order that the proper number of branches may be obtained. This 
object may not be reached the first year, but it will ultimately be 
attained if the pruning proceeds on right lines. Trees that had but few 
roots when planted should be pruned back to one-third the length of 
the branches. Those that had a large proportion of roots which were 
bat little damaged may have the branches pruned so as to leave at least 
two-thirds. In every case cut back to a wood bud, and to one pointing 
in the direction it is desired the branch should extend. The pruning 
must also be regulated by the strength of the trees, weaker examples 
being cut in closer than strong ones. Neglect in pruning during the 
first year frequently results in stunted growth, because these being 
left at full length the limited number of roots have no power to 
push fresh ones; their energy is used up in sustaining the wood and 
buds already existing. As a rule the closer the pruning the first year 
the more vigorous is the growth which follows. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peacbes and Trectarlnes. —Earliest Forced House .—The fruit 
has nearly completed the early swelling and entered on the stoning 
process. If the thinning has been carefully attended to there will be 
little more than the necessary quantity—that is, one fruit to each square 
foot of trellis covered by the trees. More are usually left in order to 
meet contingencies, but it is certain that if a tree can only stone a certain 
number of fruit a selection of the most promising will be advantageous 
both as regards the stoning and swelling of the fruit retained. If there 
is more fruit than the trees can possibly bring to maturity thin it before 
rather than after the stoning process, removing the smallest and badly 
placed. The chief cause of fruit not stoning is the immature and ill 
condition of the wood. During the stoning process keep the tempera¬ 
ture as even as possible, avoiding sudden checks from cold currents 
of air in the daytime, and undue excitement at night. The night 
temperature may range from 60° to 65° in mild weather, but 5° less is 
safer and better when severe ; 65° by day from artificial means is quite 
high enough when the atmosphere outside is cold and the sky overcast, 
ventilating from the figures last named, but allowing an advance to 70° 
or 75° from sun heat, the latter temperature not being exceeded without 
full ventilation. Secure the leading and other shoots required for 
furnishing the trees. Syringe with water of the same temperature as 
the house to keep down red spider. If aphides are troublesome fumiga¬ 
tion may be practised moderately on two consecutive evenings, taking 
care to have the foliage dry. A decoction of quassia chips, 4 ozs. boiled 
in 2 gallons of water for twenty minutes, then straining and dissolving 
4 ozs. of softsoap in it as it cools, is quite strong enough for young 
foliage, and equally good for destroying aphides, thrips, and red spider. 
With a tablespoonful of petroleum added, after emulsion in eight parts 
of boiling water to one of softsoap, the mixture is effective against young 
scale. Supply water to the border as required, not being deceived by 
the surface, which is often wet from syringing, whilst the soil below is 
dry, but make an examination and give sufficient water or liquid manure 
to thoroughly moisten the soil. Nitrogenous manures, however, must be 
used carefully during the early stages of swelling and the stoning pro¬ 
cess, the chemical manures being of greater benefit than humus-forming 
ones at this stage. 
Second Early House .—Trees started at the beginning of January 
should be gradually disbudded, removing the strongest and ill-placed, 
so as to secure an equality of vigour. Tie the leading shoots carefully down, 
not too tightly, with sufficient space for all to receive the full influence 
of the light. Thin the fruit by degrees, and where it has set thickly 
extra attention will be required, removing those on the under side of 
the trellis or where badly placed, but leaving those that are well exposed 
to light and air until they indicate by free swelling the need for 
further reduction, then remove the smallest, and so proceed until the 
number is reduced to the crop the trees are calculated to bring to 
maturity. Syringe early during fine days, always early enough in the 
afternoon to allow the foliage to become fairly dry before night. 
Ventilate when the weather is favourable, and do not close so early as 
to advance the temperature considerably, as it only aggravates the 
tendency to produce wood, which is unfavourable to the retaining of 
the fruit. The temperature may range from 55° to 60° at night and 60° 
to 65° by day, ventilating at the latter temperature, and closing the 
house when the heat is decreasing, but not to advance more than 5° from 
sun heat. 
Trees Started Early in February .—The trees being in flower the 
night temperature may be maintained at 50° to 55° in mild weather, 
falling 5° or even 10° in severe, the temperature named being sufficient 
on dull days with a little ventilation, as a close atmosphere is fatal to a 
good set. Ventilate freely from 55°, and allow an advance to 65° with 
sun heat. Fertilise the blossoms in the early part of fine days, either 
shaking the trellis or brushing the flowers with a camel’s-hair brush 
when the pollen of the individual flower is ripe. Syringing is best dis¬ 
pensed with whilst the trees are in bloom, but the floor should be 
sprinkled occasionally on dull days, and morning and afternoon in 
bright weather. 
Midseason Houses .—The trees of midseason varieties to afford ripe 
fruit in July and August must now be started, syringing them in the 
morning and afternoon in bright weather, but occasionally only in dull 
periods, ceasing the syringing over the trees when the blossoms show 
colour. Where there is a superabundance of bloom buds it is a good 
plan to ease the trees of those on the under side or back of the shoots as 
soon as they are sufficiently advanced, a gloved hand drawn contrary 
way of the growth doing it expeditiously. Where the trees are weak it 
is excellent practice to relieve them of the flowers to the extent of at 
least half those required for setting, and cross-fertilise the flowers,, 
affording some gently stimulating food, such as superphosphate of lime 
three parts, muriate of potash two parts, and one part ground gypsum, 
mixed, using 3 or 4 ozs. per square yard, and washing in moderately after 
the soil has been brought, if necessary, into a properly moist conditioni. 
This may be repeated at intervals of four to six weeks. Maintain a 
temperature of 50° by day, ventilating from that, and not allowing an 
advance to or over 65° without full ventilation ; the night tempera¬ 
ture should be kept at 40° to 45°, with a little air constantly at the top 
of the houses. 
Late Houses .—The trees from which the lights were withdrawn have 
not suffered in the least from the severe frost, and the buds are in an, 
as yet safe condition, therefore the lights need not be replaced until the 
blossoms have arrived at the point of showing colour. This ensures late 
flowering, and the later the better, so that fruit may be produced in 
October, which of the large kinds, such as Gladstone, Sea Eagle, and 
Golden Eagle Peaches, bring better returns than in September, when 
it is amply supplied from walls. Where the roof lights are fixed venti¬ 
lation must be given to the fullest extent, so as to retard the flowering 
as much as possible, but no good comes of keeping tbe house cold after 
the blossoms show colour, as it is then that the organs need to be kept 
in progressive development. Many late houses are unheated, which is a 
mistaken idea of economy, as when the weather is cold and dull during 
April—the time at which it is desirable to have late house trees in 
flower—the atmosphere is too close, moist, and cold for the satisfactory 
development, while there is danger of damage from spring frosts in that 
month, and eren in May. In cold, sunless seasons the fruit does not 
ripen satisfactorily, and the wood is so immature as to prejudice the 
future crop. A gentle heat during the flowering does much towards a 
good set, and in the autumn artificial heat with free ventilation ripens 
the fruit and wood, so that the current and future crops are alike 
benefited. 
Unheated Houses or Wall Cases .—These are admirable means of 
growing fruit. They should be provided with both top and bottom 
ventilation, and the roof lights, except the ventilating ones, be move- 
able. We have tried both systems, fixed and moveable roof lights, and 
find the latter far the best. The roof lights are taken off directly the 
leaves of the trees commence falling, and off they remain until the buds 
have the blossom peeping. This means, with Apricots, replacing the 
lights a month or more earlier than for other fruits, and necessitates 
having the trees of the different kinds in compartments. The system 
answers admirably for Apricots, which produce fruit abundantly, and 
the trees are remarkably healthy and free from gumming to a much 
greater extent than on those open walls. Cherries do even still better 
than the Apricots, giving fruit at the close of May or early in June in 
forward seasons, and which can be kept from the depredations of birds, 
cracking or spoiling by wet. Plums do well, and are never so fine 
and luscious as when grown under glass. Peaches and Nectarines 
afford a supply of fruit from July to October inclusive. Pears revel in 
the spring time, and the fruit attains to a size and colour seldom seen 
on open walls, but the quality is often very defective. It is desirable to 
expose the trees after the weather becomes settled in June, and then 
a crop is secured with quality in the fruit. The better plan is to grow 
the Pears in pots, and only place under glass for the securing of a crop. 
Figs ripen one crop of fruit in August and September, also Grapes, early 
varieties of the latter being selected, and they are quite as good as those 
produced in expensive vineries. Anything in the way of pruning 
should be completed, the trees and house being put into thorough order. 
The borders of houses that have not the lights removed may need 
supplies of water, so as to bring the soil into a moist condition. 
Ventilate freely, so as to retard the flowering to as late a period as 
possible. 
Cherry House .—Ventilation is an important factor in the cultivation 
of Cherries under glass. A free circulation of air should pass through 
the house whenever the temperature exceeds 60°, the amount of air 
being regulated by the conditions of the external atmosphere. Employ 
fire heat only to prevent the temperature falling below 50° in the day¬ 
time, and to maintain a night temperature of 40° to 45° in the house 
when the trees are in flower. Attend to fertilising the blossoms. 
Fumigation must not be resorted to whilst the trees are in flower, but 
will be necessary as soon as the fruit is set. It is also requisite to watch 
closely for the appearance of grubs; one kind rolling itself up in the 
leaves, and can be eradicated by squeezing, but the other encases itself 
in a sort of web on the under side of the leaves, giving them a scorched 
appearance, and from these it passes to the clusters of fruit, perforating 
and destroying them. The only means of riddance is to examine the 
trees occasionally and destroy the caterpillars. 
Earliest Forced Trees in Pots .—Trees plunged in bottom 
heat require water or liquid nourishment somewhat abundantly, always 
at the temperature of the bed, which at 70° to 75° enables the trees to 
make steady progress. The atmospheric temperature should be main¬ 
tained at 60° to 65° at night, admitting a little air in the morning at 70°, 
but not so as to lower the temperature, closing at 75°, and if the heat 
rise to 80° or 85° it will be more advantageous than otherwise. Thin 
the fruit, if too thick, as soon as the best placed and most promising 
can be decided upon for the crop, but it is not advisable, as a rule, 
to thin them much before flowering, which occurs before the Figs 
