218 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
March 7, 1896, 
frost each night. Bees have been on the wing daily, and the 
thermometer registering 45° in the shade has enabled bee-keepers 
to effect a thorough overhauling of their stocks. It is not advisable 
so early in the season to uncover the bees more than is really 
necessary, or to lift out the frames, or in any way to interfere 
with them, or much harm may be caused by it. 
Al l stocks should be examined to see that they are not short 
of stores. This can be done by turning back the quilt, and if 
on looking down between the frames sealed stores are visible, 
they will be safe for the present, but should further supplies be 
needed, feed with candy as previously advised. After such 
a spell of cold weather it shows the advantage of loose floor 
boards, as by having a few spare ones on hand the hive can be 
lifted off its old stand and placed on a clean, dry board. The 
board which has been in use all the winter can then be cleansed of 
all dead bees and any debris that may have accumulated, and if 
wet should be well dried before being used again, as after a long 
storm, when snow has lain about the hives for a considerable time, 
it is surprising how the moisture will penetrate some of the most 
carefully made hives. 
Straw skeps must not be neglected. These should be 
examined, and if on lifting them they are found to be of fair 
weight, they are right as regards sufficient stores, as with a little 
practice one can soon distinguish between those that have ample 
stores and any that require feeding. The former may be put on 
clean, dry boards ; the latter should be quietly turned up, and a 
cake of candy inserted between the combs, or through the feed 
hole at the top of the skep, but care should be taken to prevent 
an escape of heat. The late severe weather should have proved 
whether straw skeps or frame hives are the best for wintering 
purposes, and as I have been experimenting with both, I will 
shortly report the results.— An English Bee-keeper. 
Ecclesiastical Bees. — In California, where there are com¬ 
paratively light winters, and flowers to be had all the year, the honey 
bee does not seem to care about the fostering protection of man, but 
makes its home in the wilds where it chooses. A Californian paper 
speaks of a large colony having taken possession of the roof of an 
Episcopal church, and as they interfered with nobody, nobody interfered 
with them ; but when the recent hot weather came, and the honey 
melted and flowed in streams down the walls of the building it was 
considered a little too much of a good thing, and someone had to be 
found to clear out the little workers. He got 100 lbs. of honey for his 
fee without the necessity of scraping the walls to secure the overflow. 
—(“ Meehan’s Monthly,”) 
All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor or to “ The Publisher,’' Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Vines Bleeding: (//. (S.).—You had better take a hot iron and 
scorch the points of the canes, then daub them with red or white lead 
as soon as it is done. Some persons have found powdered alum useful. 
A little oozing will do no harm, but a free flowing will weaken the 
Vines. As soon as the leaves develop they will take up all the sap. 
Sewage for Potatoes (Nemo ).—You may safely give the well 
drained ground, previously to digging, a heavy soaking with the contents 
of your cesspool; and if the plants during their early growth seem 
weakly, pour another good soaking between the rows, and repeat it after 
a fortnight if apparently needed. In a poor soil we should prefer this 
treatment to a heavy application of stable manure. 
Fungus In IMCustaroom Bed H .').—The fungus infesting 
your beds appears to be a Coprinus, and is wholesome when gathered 
young, still can only be regarded as a weed in the beds. It grows from 
spores that have either found their way into the manure or the soil used 
in casing the beds. Clear the interlopers away as soon as you see them, 
as they quickly mature spores for dispersion and further infestation. 
Orchid Peat (J. A'.).—The sample you have sent is not such as is 
usually sold and used in the cultivation of Orchids. As the first bag 
is admitted to have been sent in error, and the second was the same as 
the first, it seems to follow that a second mistake has been made. 
Obviously we cannot take any action of the nature you suggest on the 
basis of the mistake. It is the only case of the kind that has been 
brought before us. 
Weather Predictions (A. A.).—We are obliged by the extract, 
but have not space for its insertion. By all means compare the results 
with the prognostications. In our experience weather prophets who 
venture far into the future are more often wrong than right. None of 
them, so far as we know, gave due notice of the extraordinary frost of 
the past month, which it is thought might have been worthy of their 
attention if they had foreseen the visitation. 
Seedling Cyclamen (A Grimes ').—The flowers are unusually rich 
in colour—deep, glowing crimson, and the variety is worthy of preser¬ 
vation. All you can do is to isolate the plant, placing it in a favourable 
position for the ripening of pollen, and with a little delicate manipula¬ 
tion you may assist in the " self-fertilisation,” All the seedlings may 
not come true, but some of them may be expected to do so. We do not 
remember having seen any flower quite so rich in colour exhibited. 
Grass Edging Broken (A. G. A .).—You cannot make a firm edge 
by outside additions, but you can do so by cutting through the turf in 
line a foot or so from the edge, then with a sharp spade raising and 
drawing the portion so sliced off as far as is necessary into the walk, 
rolling it well, then with a line and sharp knife slicing the rough 
margin away to a fine smooth edge. The vacancy made in the lawn 
can be filled with fresh pieces of turf made level and firm, or by filling 
them with soil and sowing grass seeds. 
Iilchen on Bawn (P. H. W.).—The plant infesting your lawn is a 
species of Lichen, and indicates that the ground is not well drained and 
the turf weak. The following would be the best course to adopt. 
During the early part of March, as soon as the weather permits, apply a 
dressing of well-decayed manure, spreading it evenly, and letting it 
remain until the close of March, then with an iron rake scratch the 
ground well forwards and backwards, which will assist in distributing 
the manure and form an open surface. Early in April remove the loose 
portions of the manure by raking it evenly, and any stones should at 
the same time be removed. This will form a good tilth for the Grass 
seeds, which may be sown early in April, with an early prospect of rain, 
and on a fine or calm day. 
Grevlllea — Scented Window Plant ^Inquirer). — Grevillea 
rosmarinifolia, a native of New South Wales, is more slender than 
G. robusta, and is gracefully attractive when well grown. It requires a 
light position. Your question as to “ the best allround scented window 
plant ” is somewhat a puzzle, as a perfume that may be agreeable to 
some persons may be the reverse to others. The Cape Pelargoniums 
Little Gem, Prince of Orange, and Lady Scarborough are attractive 
window plants with fragrant foliage. Some persons enjoy the Lemon 
scent of Aloysia (or Lippia) citriodora, known as the Sweet-scented 
Verbena, while others would vote for the familiar Musk. The flowers 
of the elegant Boronia megastigma diffuse a delightful perfume, but it 
would be a feat of skill to grow the plant well in the window. 
Vine Border TTnsatlsfactory (^Beeside ).—You have adopted the 
best possible methods under the circumstances, the manure and loam 
you have used will attract roots near the surface. As the border is very 
close, and likely to become sour, you may apply a dressing of basic slag 
phosphate at the rate of 14 lbs. per rod in your case, which being half 
lime will tend to correct the sourness, while the other constituents will 
act beneficially as manure. It would not be advisable to use cow 
manure, but a light mulching of rather fresh horse droppings or short 
stable manure would prove attractive to the roots, and be a great aid 
in keeping them active, assuming they are secured in the top-dressing of 
loam. About an inch thickness, however, would be suflficient, and as 
the manure becomes wasted fresh additions could be made as required, 
it being necessary to add a little fresh material occasionally to act 
beneficially, and at the same time not deprive the soil of the influences 
of warmth and air. 
Raising- Asparagus Plants (A. P, G .).—The way we have raised 
Asparagus for planting at one year old, which are the beat for general 
purposes, is to sow the seeds in drills 1 inch deep, allowing 9 inches 
distance between them, and leaving out every sixth row to form an 
alley, which is very desirable and convenient for cleaning. The seeds 
are best placed in the rows singly about 1 inch apart, or when they are 
plump and new they may be placed 3 inches asunder, as when every seed 
grows the plants are quite thick enough, otherwise it is desirable to thin 
the seedlings to that distance, for the stronger the plants the better will 
they be rooted and suitable for transplanting. The ground should be 
thoroughly clean and stirred to a depth of at least 1 foot, being well 
worked so as to secure a good tilth, and if manure is used it should be 
well decayed. The chief thing is to keep the ground clean, allow the 
plants a fair amount of room, so as to secure a sturdy growth and 
abundance of roots for safe transplantation and speedy growth after¬ 
wards. If a large number of plants be wanted the drills may be 
6 inches apart, thinning the seedlings to 3 inches distance. This will 
give more plants per area, but they will not be so strong, and if you 
want the finest possible plants, which are the best and most profitable 
in the long run, sow in drills 9 inches apart, and thin the seedlings to 
6 inches asunder in the rows, or thereabouts, leaving the strongest. 
The proper time to sow the seeds is during the first fortnight of April, 
or as soon afterwards as the weather is favourable. 
