M*y 23, 1893. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
461 
ind the pre3ervation of the foliage ia good condition is essential for 
the perfecting of the crop and the formation of the buds for next season’s 
beaiing. Ventilation should commence with the acting of the sun on 
the house, so that the Grapes will be heated equally with the surrounding 
air, then there cannot possibly be any scorching, a moderate amount 
sufficing, by which there is no loss of solar heat; as by increasing 
the ventilation with the advancing sun the temperature will rise to that 
required, it being kept at 70° to 75° by artificial means, and 80° to 85° or 
50° from sun heat, reducing the ventilation so as to retain this amount 
during the afternoon. Muscats like a generous regimen, profiting 
by top-dressings of phosphatic, potassic, and nitrogenous manures, such 
as obtains in the advertised fertilisers, using 2 to 4 gzs. per square yard 
at intervals of three weeks or a month, washing in moderately after 
duly moistening the soil and applying the fertiliser. This does little 
good on dry soil, and leaving it on the surface means the evolving of 
ammonia from the organic m/‘*ter and its dissipation in the atmosphere, 
whilst the other substances r *■ mot be diffused through the soil. Allow 
a fair amount of lateral gti ith, as this insures a due extrnt of root 
activity, supply of nourishmen*^, and its appropriation. Drmp the paths 
and similar surfaces in the morning and at closing time, or towards 
evening, allowing the temperature to fall to 65° through the night. 
Succession Houses. —The Vines being in full growth, and the weather 
more or less sunny, fire heat will only be necessary to prevent the 
temperature falling below 65° at night, though it may recede to 60° on 
cold nights, and to maintain it at 70° to 75° by day. Admit a little air 
as soon as the sun acts powerfully on the house, but maintain it at 80° 
to 85° from sun heat, allowing the temperature to rise to 90° or 95°, 
closing the house at 85°, then sprinkling the paths and borders. By 
admitting air early in the morning the moisture condensed on the 
foliage during the night is dispersed before the sun’s rays act powerfully, 
and thus scorching is obviated. 
Watering. —When the known requirements of the Vines or borders 
are acquired from long experience, stated intervals for watering answer 
in all but the variable circumstances that upset the calculations. 
Thorough supplies are usually afforded at starting to insure the moisten¬ 
ing of the border materials to the drainage. This is necessary, but it 
may be overdone, and any approach to soddenness does considerable 
mischief, as root formation is not favoured by wet, but healthfully moist 
soil. All that is needed is water sufficient for the solution and diffusion 
of the stored matter, for rootage in Vines does not precede but follows 
the breaking of the buds. If a dressing of some approved fertiliser is given 
at the start it will be in proper condition for absorption by the roots 
when these push fibres freely, and another before the Vines come into 
flower will push the Grapes ahead after setting. During the first 
swelling more need for water arises, as the foliage has a large expansion, 
and is fully capable of performing its functions. Stimulating food may 
then be supplied, such as top-dressing of the advertised manures or 
waterings of them in liquid form. When stoning, phosphates or 
mineral matter is most needed, afterwards nitrogenous substances favour 
the increase of the flesh and Juices, but when colouring commences 
phosphates, potash, and reduced amount of nitrate or ammonia are most 
beneficial. The amount to be given depends upon circumstances, soil, 
conditions of Vines and crop. Loose and light soils require more manure 
than compact and strong, weakly Vines more frequent and grea'er 
amounts than sturdy and vigorous, heavily cropped than lightly 
burdened Vines. Likewise in watering the supplies need to be 
regulated by circumstances, always making weekly examination of the 
border in the case of light soil, and fortnightly where heavy, and supply¬ 
ing it whenever required, but only then. Over-watering is as bad, or 
worse, than under-watering, but neither are good, there being more 
failures from insufficient than over-watering where the borders are 
properly constructed and the drainage complete. Watering twice a 
week in the case of Vines with roots in restricted borders, and once a 
week for those that have a good run of border, is not too much after the 
Grapes are formed until they are changing colour. Some loams are 
naturally very loose, sandy, or gravelly, and they have the usual opening 
materials added, as lime rubbish and charcoal, which makes them still 
more sieve-like, the consequence is the greater need of moisture. 
Retentive soils will require water far less frequently, but in no case 
must there be any lack at the roots throughout the swelling period. 
Late Vines. —The latest will be in fiower in most places. Main¬ 
tain a temperature of 70°. Shaking the rods once or tw ce a day will 
be sufficient in most cases to distribute the pollen effectively, but in that 
of the shy-setting varieties artificial fertilisation must be resorted to, 
going over the bunches carefully with a camel’s-hair brush. All large 
berried, free-setting varieties, such as Gros Colman and Gros Guillaume 
may be thinned whilst they are in flower, and with thote that are liable 
to have closely set berries it is a good plan to thin before the flowers 
expand, as a practised eye can tell which buds by their vigour are likely 
to set, and the removal of the weaker strengthens them wonderfully 
Whilst the Vines are in flower do not pinch or stop the laterals, but 
fairly set remove the needless growths, so as to prevent overcrowding, 
not allowing more to remain than can have full exposure to liyht. 
Planting Growing Vines —Those raised from eyes in February or 
March, and g-own in pots or turves, may from now to the early part 
of June be planted out, watering with tepid water to settle the soil 
about the roots, mulching the surface with a couple of inches thickness 
of short rather lumpy manure, and shade from bright sun until they 
become established. 
Flgrs.— Early Forced Trees in Pots. —When the first crop fruits 
are all gathered remove the loose portions of previous mulchings, and 
supply well sweetened rich compost, which will induce the formation of 
active feeding roots, and assist in the perfecting of the second crop. If 
the trees have become infested with red spider or scale cleanse them by 
m ans of any approved insecticide. Syringe twice a day so as to keep 
down red spider. Although a second crop is serviceable, a good first 
supply is much more valuable, therefore be content with a few fruits, or 
none at all if the trees have been severely taxed by the first crop. 
Growth after this period will require frequent attention to stopping and 
training, as the best Figs are always produced on sturdy young shoots 
fully exposed to light and air. 
Planted-out Forced Fig Trees. —The fruits on trees started at the 
commencement of the year are swelling for ripening, and must have a 
higher temperature and drier atmosphere, but care must be taken to 
afford an abundant supply of tepid liquid manure and to syringe the 
foliage regularly, as any sudden check ia against the fruit finishing well; 
besides, a dry atmosphere induces attacks of red spider. As the fruits 
ripen it will not be advisable to wet them, nor is it necessary, as 
atmospheric moisture can be secured by keeping the borders and paths 
properly damped, and the moisture arising from this can be prevented 
condensing on the fruit by maintaining a steady circulation of air with 
moderate fire heat. When grown in a hot dry house the trees soon 
become infested with red spider and scale, and as a consequence the 
ripening period is shortened, the trees resting because exhausted, conse¬ 
quently the second crop is puny, rusty, and unsatisfactory ; but trees 
treated liberally, ventilated freely, exposed fully to the sun, and 
syringed so as to keep them clean bear successionally. Planted-out 
trees succeed best on the extension system, allowing the leading shoots 
to extend without stopping until they reach the extremity of the 
trellis, when they are cut away after fruiting to make room for others 
succeeding them, some fruit being also borne on spurs, which are 
encouraged where there is room for them, not otherwise. Thus the trees 
are kept constantly well furnished with bearing wood, always of a 
character affoiding the finest fruits. The temperature should be kept at 
60° to 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day artificially, and 80° to 85° or 90° 
from sun heat. 
Unlieated Fig Houses. —The trees are showing abundance of fruits, 
a'd these, with favourable weather and management, afford an 
acceptable supply of ripe Figs in August and September. If in restricted 
holders of suitable materials they will require copious supplies of water 
and due syringing. In cloudy weather an occasional syringing suffices, 
but in bright effect it every afternoon, and sufficiently early to allow the 
foliage to become dry before night. Ventilate early, insuring a free 
circulation of air, for it is important that the leaves be well developed. 
The temperature may rise to 95° or 100°, bat in a close atmosphere the 
Fig produces nothing but leaves. Train the young shoots a good distance 
apart, stopping unruly growths, but late stopping is not good, as it 
results in a number of shoots which may not ripen properly, even when 
duly thinned, and it is on well matured growths that the Figs are borne. 
Secure, therefore, firm short-jointed wo 3d, and allow the points to grow 
up to the glass without touching it, in which position they will form a 
number of Figs ready for swelling in the spring. 
Melons.—In houses, when the fruit is cut from the earliest plants 
the old stem may be shortened to a strong shoot near its base, removing 
as much of the old soil as can be picked out from amongst the roots, 
adding fresh in its place, strong, rather lumpy, and well pressed down, 
giving a good watering. If a moist atmosphere is maintained and the 
plants are syringed in the morning at aoout 4 p.m. they will soon start 
freely, showing fruit in much less time than by starting afresh. If they 
have healthy growths they need not be cut down so closely, but laterals 
taken at suitable distances and the old shortened or cut away, the fresh 
laterals will show fruit at a few joints of powth. If, however, the 
plants are affected with canker or from carrying too heavy a first crop, 
a deficiency of water or attacks of insects, are enfeebled, it is better to 
remove them, thoroughly cleansing the house, placing strong plants in 
ridges or hillocks of fresh ?oil. Maintain 70° as the minimum tempera¬ 
ture, though 55° or even 60° will do no harm when the nights are 
unusually cold and the days bright, 70° to 75° being secured by day 
artificially, admitting air at the latter and increasing it with the sun 
heat, allowing an advance to 85° or 90°, closing at 80° to 85°, yet so early 
as to jaise the temperature to 90°, 95°, or 100°. Keep abundance of 
moisture in houses containing young growing plants or those swelling 
their fruits, gently damping the foliage, walls, and floors, closing about 
3.30 P.M., or as early as is safe. Feed plants liberally that have their 
fruits swelling, not allowing them to suffer through insufficient supplies 
of water, and afford weak liquid manure. Fertilise all pistillate flowers 
daily, ensuring a somewhat dry condition of the atmosphere, not using 
the knife during that period, but pinch out the points of the shoots at 
one or two joints beyond the fruit. Earth plants that have set their 
fruits, and examine them frequently for the removal of superfluous 
growths, not allowing these to interfere with the principal foliage. 
Shade as little as possible, and only to prevent flagging. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
C. Cox, Western Road, Tunbridge Wells.— of Summer Houses 
and Other Things. „ .. . 
Wm. Cutbush & Sons, Highgate, London.—Awf of New Strawberries. 
Andrew Potter, Melbourne Works, Wolverhampton.— List of Garden 
Hose, Netting, Tents, and Other Requisites. 
J. Shores, Owston Ferry, Rotherham.—PnUflilo Sorter and Other 
Appliances. t. jj- 
D. S. Thomson & Sons, The Nurseries, Wimbledon.— Bedding and 
Border Plants. 
