Hay 30,1895. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
471 
cases, half ripe in .others, cutting the stems immediately below a joint 
from which the leaves asually spring, removing the two lower leaves, 
and possibly the pair above, retaining foar good leaves and a healthy 
growing point. Cuttings of many deciduous plants may be prepared 
and inserted in spring and autumn, at the first period selecting young 
firm shoots or short stubby growths, taken off with a heel of old wood 
attached. In autumn young ripened wood is selected and cut into 
suitable lengths with the lower leaves removed, so that a clear portion 
is obtained to insert in the soil, which should be of a sandy character in 
a sheltered position or where the protection of a hand-light or frame can 
be afforded. The process of rooting is as follows :—First, a portion of 
the sap or organised matter contained in the catting descends to the 
base, collecting there, and forms a callus. From this callus, sooner or 
later, roots emerge, take hold of the soil, extend and increase, the rooting 
thus being accomplished. In the case of autumn-inserted cuttings—for 
instance. Calceolarias, Carnations, and Roses—roots are seldom produced 
before the days begin to lengthen. The callused cuttings retain their 
freshness as if rooted. Cuttings of many hardwooded plants and spring- 
propagated Roses are best callused under cool conditions, then incited 
to root by the assistance of a gentle bottom heat. 
4, The objects to be obtained by digging the soil are its deepening 
and amelioration by the thorough mechanical division of the particles 
and their exposure to the atmospheric elements, whereby a freer ad¬ 
mission of air, moisture, and warmth is secured, the whole being 
rendered more available by the roots of plants. 
5, A Pea placed in the ground absorbs moisture from the soil, and 
with the assistance of heat the substance of the seed swells. The vital 
part within which is the embryo proceeds to develop. It throws out 
from its apex a green point, which is termed the plumule or growing 
point; from the base the radicle, which subsequently forms the root. 
Attached to the embryo are the cotyledons, which serve to feed the 
embryo during its early stages of growing existence, or until the first 
leaves are formed and young roots originated, when they decay. 
The plant is then established in the soil, and gradually develops larger 
stems and leaves. This is carried on rapidly under favourable circum¬ 
stances, the plant also throwing out tendrils by which it may cling to 
objects for support. On attaining to the normal height of the variety 
the plant begins to fiower, the blooms becoming fertilised by the action 
of the wind or insects distributing the pollen from one flower to another. 
After this the petals fall and the pods commence to form. Each pod 
contains the seed closely attached to the inner epidermis. The seed 
derives support from and is protected by the pod, which draws its 
sustenance from the plant. The final stage is reached when the haulm 
turns yellow. The pods are also affected, eventually drying and cracking, 
and the fully developed dried Peas are seen. 
6, The Onion represents an underground stem in the form of a bulb. 
A Cabbage consists of leaves more or less closely folded together. A 
Potato is a thickened part of an underground stem or branch, and is 
termed a tuber. Beet and Turnips are the thickened fleshy parts of 
roots in which material for future growth is stored. A Pea pod is the 
seed-bearing organ. 
7, The origin of a Mushroom takes place from the white thread¬ 
like filaments called the mycelium, which spreads rapidly in a favourable 
medium of soil or manure. At certain parts the forces contained in the 
mycelium combine and form cells, which multiply and enlarge with 
extraordinary rapidity, terminating in the development of a Mushroom. 
8, “ Grreen fly ” is the common term for aphides of that colour, 
insects which infest plants outdoors and under glass. A solution of six 
parts of water to one of tobacco juice, thoroughly mixed and applied 
with a syringe or sprayer, is one of the many best applications for 
ridding plants outdoors of these pests. 
GROWING PEAS AND PREVENTING MILDEW. 
I KNOW it is a common plan amongst gardeners to practise and 
advise that Peas, especially those for late crops, to be sown in trenches 
somewhat after the method pursued with Celery. The main object in 
the trench culture of Peas is the prevention of mildew by providing 
what is considered adequate moisture, by affording a root run into a 
mass of manure in the trench. Too often have I seen Peas growing in 
such trenches infested with mildew to a serious extent to consider the 
plan a good one. 
A trench 15 inches wide is dug out, and as much, or more in depth; 
manure 9 inches thick is put in the trench, trodden down quite firm, a 
few inches of soil is laid on the manure, the Peas sown. By the time 
the Peas are several inches high the soil is some inches below the 
surface, affording space for a good supply of water. My objection to 
the system is this, the roots quickly take possession of the manure, and 
owing to the wall-like sides of the trench they do not spread into the 
surrounding soil, but are contracted as it were to the narrow space in 
the trench. As maybe imagined, during a spell of dry weather, unless 
water is very often supplied, the roots quickly absorb what moisture the 
manure contains, and then comes their suffering in consequence of an 
insufficiency of supply, with the usual result of a full crop of mildew. 
How often do we see the haulm of Peas attacked with mildew after 
a spell of dry weather. It is one of the most difficult matters imaginable 
to check the spread of the fungus when once it has obtained a thorough 
hold. As a rule drought at the roots is the main cause of the attack, 
and I always apply a 3-inch mulching of half-decayed horse manure on 
the approach of dry weather. 
It is generally considered that Peas in light land suffer much more 
from mildew than those growing in heavy land. My experience does not 
altogether confirm this theory. Directly the rows are earthed we apply 
the mulching, first digging the soil, as if it is trodden on when wet 
it kneads together surprisingly. All practical gardeners know the 
advantage gained by having the soil in a loose friable condition for the 
roots to run in, as well as a means of retaining moisture. Half-decayed 
horse manure is probably the best material for mulching purposes, 
though decayed vegetable refuse mixed with wood ashes, old potting 
soil, and leaves answers admirably. Even if mulching with any material 
is not practicable the next best thing to do is to keep the soil, for at 
least 1 foot on each side of the plants, well broken up, so that the surface 
cannot crack and allow the moisture to escape, and thus savejthe crop 
by retaining the moisture in the soil.—E. M. 
SINGLE DAHLIAS, 
At this period of the year summer bedding is the uppermost thought 
in the minds of most gardeners, and during the next few weeks these 
operations will be in full swing. Stern recollections of the severe frost on 
the 20th of May last year will have been sufficient to advise all not to be 
in too great a hurry, but rather be the gainers by waiting until all danger 
of frost is over. In many large gardens the question of producing a 
supply of plants sufficient for the demand is one of much consideration, 
and to meet this Dahlias are largely called into requisition, and the 
bright display which they afford is ample recommendation for their use. 
The number of pretty Cactus and fancy varieties that have been intro¬ 
duced during recent years is very large, and truly many of these are 
extremely beautiful and worthy of a place in any garden. 
It is my intention, however, of speaking of a class which do not 
appear to be cultivated so largely as they deserve—namely, the singles, 
which, for producing abundance of elegant flowers, have no superiors. 
Strange to say, in this class the old varieties still hold full 8wa,y, as few 
of the additions are very far in advance of those of earlier introduc¬ 
tions. They are especially suitable for the adornment of gardens where 
the landscape is undulating and of natural formation. Another point 
in their favour, often found wanting in the double varieties, is that they 
throw up their profusion of brightly coloured blooms well above the 
foliage, this adding much to their value from a decorative point of view. 
So simple is their cultivation that any notes on this is unnecessary, 
and for varieties I have proved from experience that the scarlet Formosa, 
is one of the very best. The flowers are bright and effective, and pro¬ 
duced in such large numbers that a small bed makes quite a feature. It 
is in groups of three or four that they are seen to the greatest advantage, 
and so planted add much to the beauty of any garden even during the 
most unfavourable of summers. The elegance of the long spikes of 
flower also renders them very useful for decorative purposes. 
Negress is a variety growing taller, and of a very dark velvety colour 
almost approaching to black, which in the sunshine is very pleasing. 
In growth Negress differs from any other variety, the leaves being cut 
and fimbriated. The “ White Lady of the Lake ” is almost indispens¬ 
able in any collection of singles, as it produces abundance of pleasing 
flowers which form a charming contrast to any other colour. ^ It is very 
useful for forming the outside rows of beds planted with mixed kinds. 
The single yellow is likewise pretty and useful, as, like all of the class, 
is extremely floriferous, and almost indifferent with respect to situation 
and weather. Juno is a tall growing kind of a. bright purple colour, 
and suitable for forming the back lines of large masses, for which 
purpose it is mostly used. 
Another useful scarlet variety is Mrs. Beauman, with flowers 
larger than Formosa, though not borne in such profusion. Edith is of 
a pretty salmon tint, and commendable for contrasting. Though 
there are many other varieties all worthy of a place in addition to the 
above I have refrained from mention of them, as fewer kinds of decided 
colours are preferable to growing too many, in which case there is 
danger of confusion and clashing of shades. In conclusion, I would add 
that single Dahlias are well worthy of a place where they can be 
accommodated in large numbers, by which the effect of their graceful 
beauty is shown to the greatest advantage.—G. 
THE TEMPLE SHOW. 
No doubt this very fine exhibition has ere now undergone enough 
criticism. Nothing in this world, not even a Temple sQow, can be 
perfect, and if there be criticism no doubt it is not at all unkindly 
meant, but is rather a product of that earnest yearning which so many 
people have for ideals that may never be realised. Thus from an 
artistic point of view the show was a failure, but that is inevitable 
because of the surroundings. No man, however great his capacity to 
design or to execute, could accomplish more under existing conditions, 
although in relation to individual groups perhaps much more might 
have been done even with such surroundings. 
But if artistic skill in grouping was lacking, the show was all the 
same one of very remarkable excellence. It showed to the world, though 
in a limited degree, how great are our horticultural resources, and what 
a magnificent display of a floral nature can be produced even when the 
surroundings are not of the most helpful. Very likely there weie some 
who went only to see, who wished they could have had a free hand in 
arrangrr^^' some of the collections. Furnished as most of the material is 
