May 30,1895. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
485 
Lobelia, If either Fuchsias or tuberous Begonias are used make the 
soil extra rich and give abundance of vater White Marguerites edged 
with pink-flowered Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums are effective. Much the 
same remarks apply to window boxes. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Celery Trenches. —If not already done, no time should be lost in 
getting trenches ready for the main and late crops of Celery. Some 
soils are simply unworkable for several weeks after they are dug, or say 
till baked by sunshine, and then well moistened. In this case, then, 
early digging of trenches is imperative, and early preparation of trenches 
where the soil is of freer working nature is also desirable. If wanted 
extra fine one row of plants In a trench is enough, but for ordinary 
purposes very large “ sticks ” are not altogether to be preferred. Even 
in this case nearly or quite as many plants may be grown in single 
rows as are usually put out in double lines, and the former can always 
be the more readily and effectively moulded up. Trenches for single 
rows may be 15 inches to 18 inches wide, and they ought to be fully 
20 inches wide for the double rows. Where possible allow 4 feet spaces 
between the trenches, and some of the soil from the trenches being 
evenly distributed over this. Lettuces, Kidney Beans, and dwarf Peas 
may be grown on them to perfection. Shallow rather than deep 
trenches are the best for heavy soils and cold lying positions. 
Celery Beds.— Where space is limited there is much to be said in 
favour of growing Celery in beds. Open a shallow trench 4 feet to 
width and distribute the soil on each side, then fork in good 
solid manure. In this instance the rows must run across and not 
lengthways of the trench, or otherwise earthing-up will be a difficult 
undertaking. The rows may be from 12 inches to 15 inches apart, and 
the plants in the rows from 6 inches to 8 inches apart. 
Plantingr Celery. --Market growers in many instances move the 
plants to the trenches direct from the seed beds ; but in this case the 
trenches are not deep, and have been got out well in advance of planting, 
or long enough to have become warmed somewhat. In cold, deep 
trenches a very poor start is usually made by small plants moved without 
a ball of soil about the roots. Any pricked out in boxes or on old hot¬ 
beds ought not to become badly crowded before they are moved to the 
trenches. Pass an old knife round them or through the lines three or 
four days prior to transplanting, and from the long roots thus cut 
through numbers of root fibres will spring, a compact mass of soil and 
roots being had accordingly. A good soaking of water ought always be 
given well in advance of the moving, and then, if not allowed to become 
tall, the plants will scarcely show any signs of a check. Naturally 
they would move the most satisfactorily in dull, showery weather; but 
there should be no waiting for this if by so doing the plants become 
drawn and weakly. If dry soil in trenches is moistened before planting, 
and a good watering is given afterwards, there will be little or no 
flagging. Plants in single rows may be disposed from 6 inches to 
8 inches apart, allowing rather more space if extra fine produce is 
desired ; while those in double rows should be from 10 inches to 
12 inches apart and 5 inches clear of the sides of the trenches. Plant 
the white-stalked varieties principally for the earlier supplies, the 
coloured varieties keeping better. 
Tomatoes. —In some districts planting of these against sunny walls 
has already commenced. Early planting is recommended in the case of 
any starving in small pots, as these must have time to become well 
established in their fresh quarters before they will commence fruiting. 
Those raised late and not badly root-bound should be kept a few days 
longer in cold frames, or where they can be protected from heavy rains 
and cold weather. Sunny walls and fences are the best positions for 
these crops. The low front walls of forcing houses, allowing the plants 
to trail a little way over the roof, answer well for Tomatoes in favourable 
seasons, but it should be added that in such exposed sites they are more 
liable to disease than are the plants less exposed to the rains. Neither 
a very rich root run nor any particular soil is needed. Freshen up stale 
or very poor soil with a little loam, solid manure, and burn-bake, while 
a wholly fresh or temporary border may be formed with good garden 
soil, with a little manure and fresh loam. A sprinkling of Thomson’s 
or other special manures may be used in either case with advantage in 
preference to applying it later on. If plants are plentiful dispose them 
12 inches apart, and confine to a single stem, but if somewhat scarce 
arrange them from 2 feet to 3 feet apart, and lay in two side growths in 
addition to the unstopped leader. 
Tomatoes In the Open. — In moderately favourable seasons 
Tomatoes succeed well quite in the open, the fruit commencing to ripen 
only a little later than those on plants against walls. The plants might 
be put out among early Potatoes, arranging them from 2 feet to 3 feet 
apart each way, or they may be planted 1 foot or rather more apart in 
rows running from north to south and 3 feet or rather more apart. Rows 
of runner Beans might be made to form screens on the coldest sides. A 
very rich soil is undesirable, but the other extreme should also be 
avoided. Ruby, Earliest of All, Laxton’s Open Air, Conference, and 
Conqueror are among the best varieties for open air culture. In each 
and every case see the soil is moist prior to planting, and also that the 
balls of soil and roots are neither dry when put out nor allowed to 
become so afterwards. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
that are growing too tall for table decoration 
may be notched and bound with a little moss. If kept moist roots 
are quickly emitted, and well furnished heads can be established 
without the risk of losing the lower foliage. The plants operated 
on should be stood by themselves so that they can be liberally 
syringed, and the house kept close and moist. Heaths of a smaller 
size may be inserted in small pots and placed under hand-lights in a 
warm house. If stock is wanted allow the old plants to break, and 
when the side shoots are large enough they may be rooted. Keep 
growing plants free from scale and thrip, and syringe liberally. 
Sponging is an evil that must be avoided as much as possible. 
Many varieties cannot be done, however carefully, without injury to 
their curled foliage. 
Dracaenas.— To grow these plants well they must never become 
stunted ; from the time the heads are rooted, or the plants raised from 
portions of stem, they should be kept growing. If unduly confined at 
their roots the plants are checked, the lower foliage falls, and they 
rarely do well afterwards. In potting these plants all that display 
signs of stunted growth should be discarded. All kinds need 
careful watering after potting until they are rooting freely. For stove 
sorts a warm moist atmosphere is necessary, and shade for a few hours 
during the hottest part of the day. Cool kinds make the greatest 
progress when grown in heat; under cool conditions they are too long 
on hand. When once they are fairly started an intermediate tem¬ 
perature with abundance of moisture and shade suits them admirably. 
From root cuttings some grand table plants can be grown if inserted 
in heat at the present time. In from 3 to 5-inch pots the old 
D. congesta makes capital shapely plants, and a good number of small 
plants for many purposes will be found useful. 
Gardenias. —Where a young stock was raised last August or 
September the plants should be growing freely in 6-inch pots, and old 
stunted plants that have flowered may be thrown out. The shoots of 
the young stock should be pinched to induce them to branch freely. 
Grow the plants fully exposed to the sun in a warm moist house. The 
soil should be kept moist but not saturated, or these plants become 
sickly and stunted. When well rooted a little chemical manure may be 
applied to the surface once a fortnight. Old plants that it is necessary 
to keep may be cut down and started again into growth in brisk heat. 
If bottom heat can be given all the better. 
Cyperus alternlfollus. —Young plants raised from seeds and 
established in thumbs should not, if wanted a useful decorative size in 
5-inch, be grown in too warm a temperature. When placed into 5-inch 
give them cool treatment. They are very useful for cutting, and are 
very effective hanging out loosely from amongst flowers. When plants 
are needed for this purpose they may be grown on, so that their stems 
attain to 3 or more feet in length. C. distans may be given similar 
treatment. It is a useful Grass for grouping and also for cutting. 
Folnsettlas. —Those rooted from eyes in small pots may be placed 
into 3-inch size. Pot firmly and grow the plants close to the glass. 
Admit air to them daily and increase the supply, so that firm sturdy 
growth will be made. It is a mistake to grow them too soft in their 
early stages. They generally run up tall, and the foliage fails sooner or 
later. Cuttings that have been rooted from soft shoots may be treated in 
a similar way. Old plants, if needed, may be cut down at once and 
started into growth. As soon as they break shake away all the old soil, 
and repot into smaller sizes. When established grow with the young 
stock. 
medlnllla magnlflca. —If grown in the stove proper this plant 
will be in flower. If more root room is needed pot it as soon as the 
flowers fade. It will do well in three parts good loam, with the other 
part composed of leaf mould and manure ; coarse sand may be added. 
Pot firmly, and allow the plant to make its growth in a close, moist, 
shady atmosphere, when growth has been completed expose it to the sun 
to ripen the wood. 
Begonias. —For winter flowering Begonias may be rooted without 
delay. Insert them singly in small pots, so that they can be grown 
without disturbing them when rooted. Once they are rooted gradually 
harden to cool airy treatment. The foliage is very liable to rust when 
grown in a close confined atmosphere. Old plants may be cut over, 
allowed to break from the base, and then placed into larger pots. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Chloric Dropsical Fever. 
I HAVE had this disease several times in my apiary since 1858, 
and have given my observations in the Journal of Horticulture. 
From the first I have never been able to alter my opinion of it, 
unless in a number of cases in 1894, where the hive survived after 
being reduced to less than a cupful of bees. One of these without 
any assistance survived the winter, and at the present time is a 
good strong hive. That the disease is hereditary, and not owing to 
anything in the hive, I am positive, as I am that feeding or an 
inflow of honey stays the disease, for not in a single case has it 
done so with me. 
A good illustration supporting my views has occurred with me 
this spring, and I have experienced many similar cases. A 
Carniolan queen was joined to a Punic stock in October of last year. 
The disease manifested itself early in April amongst the Panics 
