502 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
June 6,1895. 
when withhold water gradually, ceasing completely as the plants go to 
rest. 
Mealy bug and scale insects attack most of these plants, while a mite 
prevails among the roots of Eucharis. The latter can only be cleared by 
washing the roots and using fresh untainted soil. The first and second 
named are best destroyed by careful sponging, though an insecticide 
composed of softsoap solution, 2 ozs. to the gallon of water, adding a 
wineglassful of petroleum, working the whole into an emulsion, keeping 
it thoroughly mixed by constant agitation, is good when syringed over 
infested plants, serving to destroy many it not all the pests that 
assail them. Gloxinias should not be syringed either with insecticides 
or clear water. They are not, as a rule, subject to insect pests. 
10, In the cultivation of Peas the ground ought to be deeply dug 
and liberally manured in the winter, leaving the surface rough to be 
acted on by frost, rain, snow, and wind. For the early crops select a 
warm, sunny border, sowing the earliest dwarf varieties of acknowledged 
merit. In favourable situations a few rows may be sown in February, 
following at fortnightly intervals until the middle or end of March, 
when second early varieties may be sown. From this date onwards to 
the end of May sow maincrop vaiieties, and in June sow again early 
Peas for producing the latest crops in the autumn. The method of 
culture with the early crops is to sow in drills 3 feet apart for the dwarf 
varieties, placing the seed rather more thickly than for succeeding crops. 
Taller varieties should be 5 and 6 feet apart, and for the main crop 
widely arranged rows are best, intercropping the vacancies with other 
vegetables. Where the soil is light and dry and for main crops generally 
an excellent plan of culture is to dig a trench a spade deep and wide, 
place in 4 inches of manure, then 4 inches of soil, on which sow the 
Peas, filling up, but not quite level with the surface, the remaining soil. 
Peas are benefited by keeping the soil loose about the rows when the 
plants are young, slightly drawing the earth to them when a few inches 
high, and sticking early. In dry weather mulch each side of rows with 
short manure or grass mowdngs and afford copious supplies of water 
varied with liquid manure, when such will be of assistance in swelling 
41 nd perfecting the crops. 
The nodules on the roots of Peas serve the purpose of converting free 
nitrogen gathered by the plants into assimilable matter, which can be 
appropriated by them. The conversion in question is effected through 
the agency of micro-organisms of the bacterial class. 
11, An alpine plant is generally known in gardens as a hardy 
perennial of low growth, cultivated chiefly on specially prepared 
elevated sites or rockeries, the stones forming the latter providing shelter 
and protection for the plants from heat, drought, and cold. Their 
cultural requirements consist of a moderately rich and deep root run, so 
that they can become firmly established by rooting deeply, the soil a'so 
being kept moist to enable surface rooting. Each plant should be kept 
distinct from the intrusion of others. Those that need such help may 
be lightly top-dressed with leaf soil each spring. The propagation of 
these plants is effected by seeds, cuttings, offsets, and division, 
12, The original parentage of Cauliflower and Broccoli is the Brassica 
or Cabbage. Cauliflowers for summer and autumn use require sewing 
in heat, transplanted into beds of good soil where shelter, if required, can 
be afforded by frames, finally planting in rich soil in April and May. 
Broccoli may be sown in the open ground early in May, transplanted 
4 inches apart when large enough, and planted on good but very firm 
ground in an open situation in July. 
Early Snowball, Walcheren, and Veitch’s Autumn Giant Cauli¬ 
flowers ; Snow’s Winter White, Cattell’s Eclipse, Leamington, and Late 
Queen Broccolis will afford a succession. 
13, Grape Vines under glass may be started into growth at a 
temperature of 50° to 55°, gradually rising to 60° and 65° as the leaves 
expand ; 10° to 15° higher may be allowed with sun heat, and a moist 
atmosphere maintained to encourage healthy growth. Ventilate early 
before the sun heat raises the temperature, and close early in the after¬ 
noons before the sun leaves the house, damping floors, walls, and 
staging. Moisten the inside borders if dry at starting, affording further 
supplies after fruit has set, and at frequent intervals up to the berries 
colouring, when copious waterings will not be needed so frequently. 
Liquid manure may also ba given when the fruit is swelling, or top- 
dressings of some approved artificial stimulant, washing it in lightly. 
Stopping and tying-in the shoots must be practised as soon as they 
have extended far enough, previously disbudding some of the surplus 
growths, leaving no more than two at most—one to bear fruit, the other 
to develop for the following season. Keep the atmosphere rather drier 
when the Vines are in flower, and assist the fertilisation of shy setting 
varieties by shaking the bunches of bloom at midday, or conveying 
pollen to them from free-setting kinds. Thin the bunches of small and 
crowded berries early, deferring those of Muscat Vines.until the fertilised 
berries can be seen swelling freely. As soon as berries commence to 
colour give air freely and constantly, a little at night being beneficial 
given at the top. Front air is not necessary until the berries are swell¬ 
ing, air being admitted wholly from the top ventilators. Afford fire 
heat to maintain a buoyant atmosphere, and prevent damping as the 
fruit ripens. Fire heat also assists the wood to ripen if at all backward 
in the autumn. 
The diseases which attack Vines are shrivelling of the berries owing 
to a lack of root power, dryness of the soil, and deficient nutriment. 
Rust on the berries appears from similar causes and from injury to the 
outward skin of the berries. Mildew arises from a damp, low tempera¬ 
ture. insufficient air, and draughts. 
Shanking originates from poverty and a lessened supply of sap and 
overcropping. Young active rootlets are not numerous enough to con¬ 
tinue the forces required from the Vines for finishing the crop well. 
The insect pests attacking Vines are thrips, red spider, and mealy 
bug. Thrips may be destroyed by sponging the leaves when first attacked 
with soapy water, maintaining a moister atmosphere, which is not 
favourable to their spreading. Fumigation with tobacco will also 
destroy them, and is best where they are numerous. Red spider will 
not thrive in a moist atmosphere, and dusting affected leaves with 
sulphur destroys the pest. Special attention must be given to cleansing 
the Vines in winter, and in carrying out all details of culture so as to 
avoid fresh attacks another season. Mealy bug requires strong efforts 
put forth for its eradication. The best method is thorough winter 
cleansing of the canes with soap, water, and insecticides, painting the 
woodwork, whitewashing walls, and clearing out every scrap of rubbish. 
Even the top of inside borders should be removed, renewing with fresh 
material. 
14, Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, Gooseberries, Currants, and 
Raspberries are best adapted for small gardens. Apples may be culti¬ 
vated as half-standards and bush trees, arranged 4 to 6 feet from the 
w’alks round the central portion of garden, planting them 8 or 10 feet 
apart; or bush and pyramid Pears and half-standard Plums might be 
planted alternately with the Apples. If desired the whole may be 
arranged across the piece of land 10 feet apart, Gooseberries and Cur¬ 
rants being planted among them 5 feet distance between each other in 
the rows. Cordon Apples and Pears are best for low walls. Raspberries 
should have a space of ground to themselves in which they can be planted 
in lines or clumps. 
15, Fruit trees for a south aspect may comprise, in favourable situa¬ 
tions, Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Figs and Vines. Less favoured 
places may grow Pears, Apples, Plums, and sweet Cherries. For north 
aspect, Moreilo Cherries, Gooseberries, and Currants. East, Pears, 
Plums, Cherries. West, Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries, 
Fan-trained trees ought not to be less than 15 feet apart. Hori¬ 
zontally trained trees not less than 12 feet asunder grown on restricted 
stocks, on free stocks 15 to 20 feet. Upright and diagonal cordons may 
be planted 18 inches to 2 feet apart. The best height for the walls is 
9 to 12 feet, the border being the same in width as the walls are in 
height. 
16 (a), The most suitable class of soil for fruit trees is a firm loam of 
medium texture, neither too light on the one hand nor too heavy on the 
other, well drained, and not too deep, 2 feet being ample. Its prepara¬ 
tion is best effected by deep digging, loosening the subsoil, but allowing 
it to remain where it is to facilitate the escape of superfluous moisture. 
(&), The best method of culture to prevent canker and gumming 
consists first in the thorough preparation of the soil, then in planting 
healthy, vigorous trees, maintaining the roots active in the soil, and 
encouraging their production of active fibres near the surface. Avoid 
pruning excessively at any time, especially with stone fruit trees, as the 
removal of large quantities of wood at one time induces gumming. The 
general healthy condition of fruit trees depends largely on the state of 
the roots and judicious intelligent management.—E. D, S. 
[We do not know whether or not our correspondent was a candidate 
for the R.H.S. examination. We think he has answered the questions 
at least creditably, if in some cases briefly, and his M.S. was admirably 
written, requiring practically no editorial corrections, while he has 
obviously imparted useful information.] 
HARROW WEALD HOUSE. 
Though situated within about twelve miles of the City of London, 
Harrow-oB-the-Hill is distinctly rural in its streets, its shops, its people, 
but not by any means in its railway. A few days ago a bright May 
morning found us making our way to Euston, whence we departed 
for Harrow, reaching our destination in a very short space of time. 
From the station we had before us a walk of nearly two miles by a 
very dusty road. How we were repaid and what we saw shall receive 
attention in the forthcoming paragraphs. 
For those who have not diligently studied the " Horticultural 
Directory ” and discovered the fact for themselves, it may be as well at 
the outset to say that Harrow Weald House is the residence of 
H. Grinling, Esq , who employs Mr. Rapley as his gardener. “Not Rapley, 
the Qalceolaria grower, who was at Bedford Hill House ?” said a friend, 
to whom mention was made of the visit. “ The very same,” we said. 
“ Then you certainly saw something good,” was the instantaneous 
rejoinder. This was a compliment indeed to this genial gardener, 
who takes the keenest and most intelligent interest in all things 
pertaining to his calling, hence, doubtless, his success as a cultivator. 
Celebrated as he is for the magnificence of his Calceolarias, he is by 
no means behind with fruits, vegetables. Orchids, and general flowers, 
for his spirit prompts and forces him to do all things to the best of his 
ability, which means in almost, if not all cases, well. 
The drive to the mansion is broad, and under grand old trees such 
as give an air of dignity to a place that cannot be otherwise provided. 
At the end is a bed of Myosotis alpestris, amongst which are mingled a 
number of bulbs of the brightly coloured Tulipa Gesneriana, which 
looks so charming as to augur well for future prospects. Passing 
the house we enter the garden, or at least that portion of it which is 
devoted to the glass structures, comprising Orchid houses. Peach houses, 
vineries, and various plant houses, with large numbers of frames. 
After a walk through the charming grounds, a pause was made to 
