506 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
June 6, 1895. 
Rose Breeders. —Mr. Alf. Moorhouse, firsl and lecond ; Mr. Wtn. 
Mellor. third and eighth ; Mr. Ed. Lister, fourth and fifth ; and Mr, 
Geo. Gill, sixth and seventh. 
Premier Breeder. —Mr. Ed. Lister with Sir J. Paxton, Premier 
Flamed. —Mr, Ed. Lister with Sir J. Paxton ; a remarkably fine 
example. Premier Feathered. —Mr. W. Calvert with Masterpiece. 
WOKK.foiItheVEEK.. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEH. 
% Tblnnlng Trult. — AjJricots. —Small ill-placed fruits should be 
thinned from the trees without delay, so that the remaining fruits may 
have every facility for swelling freely. Many of the improperly 
fertilised fruits fall prematurely because they are not furnished with 
the necessary impetus for developing; others swell during the early stages, 
but afterwards fall, the stoning process being a test of their vigour. 
Thinning the fruit is specially necessary with stone fruits because 
of the large amount of nutriment a large number of fruits draw from 
the soil simply to provide material for the development of the stones, 
while the flesh, the essential part for which the fruit is cultivated, 
suffers. Thinning operations may take place at intervale. First 
remove the small fruits and those swelling in awkward positions, such 
as the back of a branch, pressing against wall or wires, or otherwise 
inconveniently situated so as to be ultimately injured. The next 
thinning may take place when the fruit reaches the size of small nuts ; 
the final being after the stoning, when the fruits are then apportioned 
at the proper distances asunder, according to the vigour of the trees, the 
size of the variety, or the strength of individual branches. 
Peaches and N'ectarlnes. — Following Apricots, Peaches and 
Nectarines need attention next, all small and useless fruits being 
removed early. Even if the crop is poor, owing to the indifferently 
ripened condition of the wood last season, there will still be fruits that 
need removing. If the fruit has set thickly thin out the weakest as soon 
as possible, giving a fair chance to the best to swell freely. Go lightly 
over the trees one after another, and return to them again in the same 
rotation when the fruit has swelled further, The ultimate distance at 
which a fair crop may be left can be kept in mind, so that this 
knowledge will guide the operator in determining the number to remain 
at each thinning. At the final thinning, after stoning, large varieties 
may be left 8 inches asunder, smaller 4 to 6 inches. These distances 
must be approached gradually by thinning at several different times. 
Plums and Cherries. —The weather was favourable to fertilisation 
of the bloom, consequently there has been a good set, and there seems 
every prospect of good crops, notwithstanding the rough winds since pre¬ 
vailing. Some relief must at least be afforded to wall trees. Clip out the 
malformed fruits and partly reduce the size of clusters. Attention to 
reducing the number of fruits must promote the growth of those 
remaining, giving them increased and permanent vigour. 
Apples and Pears, —There is every probability of Apples requiring 
free thinning, though at present the fruits are scarcely forward enough. 
Pears have reached the early thinning stage, and those varieties that are 
plentifully set with fruit may have the preliminary attention requisite, 
following on at intervals, because heavy crops cannot be finished well 
and at the same time not overtax the trees. Scantily furnished trees may 
remain some time longer. Trees on walls are, by their position, favour¬ 
able to the development of fine fruit, so every attention ought to be 
given them to assist the fruit in reaching its greatest possibility of size 
and attaining its best flavour. 
Gooseberries. —These are usually well thinned as soon as the berries 
are large enough for cooking purposes. If fine, large fruit is required 
for dessert, the thinning of a few trees for this purpose should be well 
carried out, avoiding gathering all the berries from a few branches and 
none from others. 
Syringlngr Wall Trees. —Much benefit accrues to wall trees by 
washing them over occasionally with the garden engine, which removes 
numbers of aphides and red spider and prevents the establishment of 
others. Should, however, these insects increase to any extent before 
attempts are made to destroy them, a dose of some insecticide ought 
first to be applied. For aphides at the points of shoots, dipping the 
latter in tobacco water or a softsoap solution is a ready method. Also 
dusting with tobacco powder and shortly afterwards washing it off. 
Red spider is more difficult to deal with, as the insects are small but 
active, and favour the under sides of the leaves. Flowers of sulphur is 
an excellent remedy when it can reach the pests. Toe best method of 
applying it is to mix it with softsoap solution, 2 ozs. of each to the gallon, 
and then spray it over the foliage, reaching the under sides. 
Waterlngr Wall Trees. —Now that fruit is set and swelling, the 
demands of the roots and foliage must be met by adequate moisture 
in the soil. The ground at the foot of walls frequently becomes dry, 
which causes weakly sap movement and a consequent attack of insects. 
Dry soil also causes roots to descend in search of moisture, and this 
promotes strong sappy growth. It is, therefoie, important not only for 
the current needs of trees but also for their future welfaie that the 
soil be maintained moist. Liquid manure can be given beneficially to 
moist soil but not to dry, and whenever there is any liquid to dispose of 
see that the ground is first soaked with clear water in order that the 
advantages of stimulants may be reaped by the roots of trees in 
bearing, to which only, and trees in a weakly condition, liquid should bo 
applied. 
Stopping Currant Shoots. — The side growths of Red and 
White Currants may now be stopped at the third joint, which will leave 
three or four large leaves at the base. The leading shoots should extend 
unchecked. Aphides often infest the points at this season, and the 
stopping frees the trees from their presence. If attacking the leading 
shoots, syringe with insecticide. These unhealthy conditions point to 
the necessity of assisting the roots. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
vines. — Early House. —As soon as the Grapes are cleared from the 
Vines give the inside borders a thorough supply of water, followed by 
liquid manure, or a top-dressing of some approved fertiliser washed in. 
This will help to plump the buds and encourage root action, so essential 
to the activity of the laterals, which, if allowed moderate extension, is 
the best safeguard against premature ripening of the foliage. Keep the 
ventilators open constantly, even in cold weather. Syringe thoroughly 
to cleanse the foliage, especially of red spider, and repeat occasionally, 
or as found necessary, to keep the old or main leaves healthy. Fresh 
laterals will soon be produced, which should be pinched so as to maintain 
an even growth all over the Vines. The mulching or covering having 
been removed from the outside border, with just enough of the lighter 
part left to protect the roots, a good watering with liquid manure may 
be given, or a top-dressing of chemical manure applied and washed in. 
In watering outside borders regard must be had to the condition of the 
soil, only supplying water when required. Avoid heavy mulchings 
inside or outside ; an inch or two of short stable manure, with the long 
strawy portion shaken out, answers admirably. 
Second Early House. —Vines started at the new year have the Grapes 
ripening. Maintain a circulation of warm, rather dry, air constantly, 
increasing the ventilation early. Keep the floors well damped on hoc 
days, with a view to check excessive evaporation, allowing the tem¬ 
perature to fall to 00° at night when cold, or 65° when warm, with 
sufficient warmth in the pipes to prevent the moisture condensing. If 
there is likely to be any want of finish, allow the Vines time by giving 
a long rest at night. Examine the border, and if there be any lack of 
moisture supply water thoroughly in the morning of a fine day, and 
when soaked in mulch with a little light material. This will probably 
be sufficient to keep the border moist until the Grapes are cut, if not, it 
must be repeated. Moderate moisture, even after the Grapes are ripe, 
is essential to the health of the foliage. The moisture will assist in 
keeping the Grapes plump, and prevent Hamburghs turning red and 
white Grapes brown, instead of retaining their jet black and rich golden 
amber colour respectively. A double thickness of herring or single 
pilchard netting drawn over the roof lights is effective and necessary 
where the panes of glass are large. Allow a moderate extension of the 
laterals to encourage root action, but keep gross laterals well in check, 
io as to cause an equal distribution of the sap. When ripe, a minimum 
temperature of 60° will be sufficient. 
JMidseasou Houses. —Vines in these will be in various stages of 
development accor Jing to the time of starring. Those that have stoned 
will be swelling the berries fast, and require liberal nourishment. Top- 
dressings of the advertised fertilisers are excellent, supplying from 2 to 
4 ozs. per square yard at intervals of about three weeks, always after 
watering, and then washing in moderately. Where stable or cowhouse 
drainings are available they should be utilised, diluting with five or six 
times the bulk of water. The drainage being good, the watering, 
whether with water or liquid manure, w’lll need to be continued weekly 
if the border is limited to a small area, or fortnightly intervals if 
moderately large, until the Grapes are somewhat advanced in colouring, 
when it must be stopped, yet the border should not be allowed to become 
so dry as to affect the foliage injuriouily. 
Admit a little air constantly at the apex of the house, and ventilate 
freely in the early part of the day, closing early with sun heat and a 
genial condition of the atmosphere. Fire heat will only be necessary 
to secure 60° to 65° at night, and 70° to 75° by day, keeping through the 
day at 80° to 85°, and closing sufficiently early to run up to 90° or 95°. 
This will insure the benies swelling to a good size, and with a free 
circulation of air a good finish may be secured. 
Grayyes Stoning. —During this process the Vines should have a regular 
temperature of about 65° at night, and 70° to 75° by day from artificial 
heat, if the Grapes are wanted ripe as soon as possible. If not 65°^ 
only need be maintained on dull days, but admit air in good time on 
the sun appearing, always a little at 70° or before after a spell of dull 
weather, so that any moisture will be dissipated before the sun acts 
powerfully on the foliage. Allow a moderate lateral extension, but 
avoid overcrowding, and supply nourishing food, such as superphosphate, 
nitrate of potash, and gypsum, so as to provide phosphoric acid, 
moderate nitrogenous matter (ammonia), nitrates, and sulphate, a small 
amount of magnesia being of great service to Vines. Supply liquid 
manure occasionally, but avoid overfeeding luxuriant Vines, especially 
with ammoniacal manures, giving in their case superphosphate or 
steamed bonemeal. This will enable the Vines to maintain steady 
progress and finish their crops, while storing food for the coming season’s 
bearing. 
Grapes Scalding. —Muscats and Lady Downe’s in the later stage of 
stoning are liable to scald ; therefore air should le admitted more freely 
