June 6, 1895. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
507 
for a fortnight or three weeks until colouring commences, when all 
danger will be over, provided the ventilation is free during the day and 
a little left on constantly. Black Hamburghs are sometimes scorched 
when the berries are exposed to tbe direct rays of the sun, which can 
usually be avoided by a good spread of foliage, and remedied by a 
bountiful supply of air by day and a little ventilation constantly at the 
upper part of the house, with a genial warmth in the hot-water pipes. 
Early Muscat Houses .—The fruit ripening will need a dry condition 
of the atmosphere as compared with Black Hamburghs, but avoid 
great aridity, or the foliage will fall a prey to red spider. Muscats 
require a long time to ripen thoroughly, and must be given it to acquire 
the golden amber colour so much esteemed and characteristic of high 
quality. Do not allow any deficiency of moisture in the borders, for 
Muscats are gross feeders, but give either tepid liquid manure or top- 
dressings of the advertised fertilisers washed in. A mulching of short, 
sweet, rather lumpy manure, an inch or two thick, will supply organic 
matter or humus with the same nourishment, keeping the surface moist 
and saving watering, as well as encouraging surface rooting and giving 
off moisture and ammonia gradually (the latter being to some extent 
taken in by the foliage and utilised by the Vines). Provide a circulation 
of air constantly, preventing the moisture condensing on the berries by 
sufficient warmth in the pipes to insure a changing atmosphere. This is 
the best preventive of “spot,” it not being possible, as we have proved 
by experiments, for the fungus spores to germinate in a dry atmosphere 
and on an exhaling surface. 
Lateral extension is a good safeguard against shanking, along with a 
steady temperature and a not over-wet condition at the roots. Avoid 
sudden fluctuations and depressions. Keep the night temperature at 
65° to 70°, 80° to 85° by day with a little sun, and 90° to 95° with it in 
full force. Ventilate early, and regulate the amount of air by the sun’s 
increase, and so with its decline reduce early, securing as long a day of 
ripening from sun heat as possible. The old leaves of Muscats, also the 
berries directly exposed to the fierce rays of the sun, are liable to be 
scorched after a period of dull weather. In very bright periods draw a 
single thickness of tanned netting over the roof lights, which, without 
impeding too much light, will break the solar rays and prevent scorching. 
Late, Houses .—Any late varieties of Grapes in flower should have a 
circulation-of dry warm air and a temperature of 70° to 75° at night, 
rising to 85° or 90° from sun heat, as without this the shy setting 
varieties do not set well. Carefully fertilise the flowers, and preferably 
with pollen from different varieties. Thin the berries freely as soon as 
they are set, but this in the case of shy setting sorts must be confined 
to the removal of the smallest and imperfect berries in the first instance, 
deferring the general thinning until the properly fertilised berries can 
be determined by their free swelling. There must not be any deficiency 
of moisture at the roots, therefore afford liquid manure copiously after 
the Grapes are thinned and swelling, or a top-dressing may be given 
o^ome approved chemical manure, distributing it evenly on the surface 
and washing in. Outside borders, if the weather be dry and the soil 
light, should be well watered and have the surface mulched, feeding 
with liquid manure or top-dressings. 
Vines in Pots and Supernumeraries for Next Year's Fruiting .— 
Young Vines .—Potted Vines should have the leading shoot or cane 
stopped at 8 to 9 feet, and the laterals or sub-laterals stopped at one 
leaf as produced. Supernumeraries in recently planted houses may also 
have the leading shoots pinched at the length indicated for Vines in 
pots—that is, those intended to bear next season. Young Vines, after 
they become established, should be encouraged with judicious watering 
at the roots and abundant atmospheric moisture, closing the house early 
on fine afternoons, so as to secure a long day’s work from sun heat. 
Figs. — Ripening .—Perfect fruit can only be had by keeping it free 
from damp during the ripening process, and affording a free circulation 
of air. Maintain the night temperature at 60° to 65°, 70° to 75° by day, 
and with sun heat 80° to 90°. It is necessary to admit a little air 
constantly, as this prevents the deposition of moisture on the fruit and 
prevents “ spotting.” Moderate atmospheric moisture is necessary for 
the benefit of the foliage, but an occasional damping will be all that is 
necessary. If red spider become troublesome during the ripening 
gather the fruit closely, and then give the trees a forcible syringing, 
directing the water against the under side of the leaves, so as to dislodge 
the pests, and clear water being used and air admitted rather freely it 
will not interfere with the ripening of the fruit remaining, and by 
pursuing this course red spider may be kept from increasing very much 
until the fruit is gathered, when it may be destroyed by applying an 
insecticide. 
Second Crops of Figs .—Liberal treatment is essential to insure the 
second crop of fruit swelling satisfactorily, syringing twice a day 
keeps red spiders in check, and affording liquid manure when watering 
is necessary ; trees in pots require it daily, and those in borders once or 
twice a week, according to the vigour of the trees and extent of the 
rooting area. The second crop must be thinned when the Figs are of 
the size of small Walnuts, and in thinning reserve the larger fruits at 
the base of the shoots. 
Young Fig Irees for Next Season's Forcing in Pots .—Those coming 
on for this purpose must not be neglected or they will disappoint the 
grower. Afford the trees all the light possible, keeping them as near 
the glass as consistent with their growth without touching, syringing 
well and supplying with liquid manure so as to secure a sturdy, short- 
jointed, well-fed growth, and when this is completed they may be 
placed outdoors in a sunny corner to rest, but they must not be neglected 
for water or syringing, and they must have the wood thoroughly 
ripened in the case of trees required for early forcing. 
melons. —Plants in flower require a liftle air constantly with a free 
circulation on fine days, fertilising the flowers as they become fully 
expanded, and when a sufficient number of fruits are set on a plant 
remove all the others and all flowers. Three or four fruits are as many 
as a healthy plant can bring to a good size and perfect, of fine, luscious 
quality. Plants swelling their fruits should have liberal supplies of 
water, supplying liquid manure or top-dressings and washing in, 
additions of fresh soil being made to the hillocks or ridges as the roots 
protrude. 
Young plants in pits and frames with the shoots trained over the 
surface must be thinned to four, taking two to the front and two to the 
back, keeping the laterals rubbed off to 6 inches from the main stem and 
pinching the principal shoots when 12 to 18 inches from the sides of the 
frames or pits. The laterals will show fruit at the first or second joint, 
and the flowers being fully expanded fertilise them about noon on fine 
days, leaving a little air on constantly to prevent the condensation of 
moisture, a moist, close atmosphere being fatal to a good set. Pinch 
out the {.oints of the shoots one joint above the fruit, and after three or 
four fruits are set upon a plant remove all others. Keep the laterals 
closely pinched and thin them if likely to crowd the principal leaves. 
Afford weak liquid manure, but keep it from the foliage, and 
sprinkle the plants in the afternoon of fine days, but not over the stems, 
closing about 3.30 p.m. to i p.m., or so early as to raise the temperature 
to 90° or 95°, and ventilate early in the day, or from 7.30 to 8 A.M., 
keeping through the day at 80° to 85° or 90°, and reduce the ventilation 
gradually. Keep a sharp look out for aphides and fumigate on two or 
three consecutive evenings moderately, an overdose doing great injury. 
If canker appears rub quicklime into the affected parts. Shade from 
oright sun, but only to prevent flagging. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Swarming. 
In some places swarming has been taking place during the last 
week. These early swarms are, as usual, near wooded and watered 
places, hives situated within bee flight but outside the shelter 
usually being about three weeks later. Early swarms are not 
always the most profitable, as between the swarming and the honey 
season proper bees very often require to be fed. 
The queens of early swarms become exhausted at the time those 
of later hives are at their best, which is the time likely to be profit¬ 
able to the bee-keeper, continuing throughout the honey season. 
Keeping all the swarms will give the largest yield of honey in a 
lengthened honey season. But swarms coming just about the time 
or a week or so before the Clover will give the best results. 
So very liable are early swarms to repeat the swarming, 
owing to the exhaustion of the queen, which in some seasons 
render the profit nil, that the bee-keeper should endeavour to 
prevent it, which is easily done by introducing young fertile 
queens. The best time for doing this is about ten days or so after 
the issue of the swarm. In the event of young fertilised queens 
not being at hand, on the eighth day after swarming divide the old 
stock into nuclei, and the weather being favourable the queens will 
soon be fertile. When this is so strengthen the nucleus by adding 
gradually the combs from the prime swarm. When that is 
accomplished depose the old queen ; the bees having now neither 
queen nor c 3mbs, and the former nucleus standing on the site of 
the swarm or contiguous to it, the bees of the latter will fraternise 
at once without any trouble. 
The profit from the apiary depends almost, if not wholly, on 
attending to the simple rule of having youthful queens to every 
hive, while the toil and trouble by incessant swarm ng is reduced 
to a minimum. 
The honey season usually begins with us about the 21st of June, 
and bees have frequently to be fed till that date. Failing that, 
many stocks would die, while others would become unprofitable. 
With the long dry weather and a falling barometer, a continuance 
of rain may be expected, but w'hether it rains or continues dry, 
honey will not flow, so bees must be fed till rain comes, and then, 
with a summer temperature, honey will flow to the delight of bees, 
and profit to bee-masters.—A Lanarkshire Bee keeper. 
SEASONABLE NOTES. 
The bright days experienced during the past week have been 
perfect bee weather, although the nights have been rather cold, on 
one occasion the thermometer going as low as 36°; but the 
maximum temperature was reached on the 30th ult., when a 
thermometer placed on a stand in the shade registered 84°. Bees 
are increasing rapidly. A note should now be made of the best 
stocks, with a view of raising queens from the best workers. By 
taking this simple precaution much benefit will result in the future, 
