June 13,1395. 
JOURNAL OF EORTIGULTUhF. AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
529 
WOKK.foilTHEWEEK.. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Uectarlnes.—When the fruit is all gathered from 
individual trees the wood on which it has been produced should be cut 
away to the shoot at its base, which is to afford the bearing wood for 
next season, except if the fruit has been produced on wood that is 
necessary to retain for the extension of the trees. All growths not 
absolutely necessary for next season’s bearing or for the extension of 
the trees should be cut away, as it is important the foliage have full 
exposure to light and air, and it is equally important that it should die 
naturally, not prematurely through attacks of red spider or lack of 
moisture at the roots. Keep the inside border well watered, and the 
outside one must not be neglected if the weather be dry. Admit all the 
air possible, and when the buds are plump and the wood thoroughly 
ripened the roof lights, where moveable, may be taken off. Employ the 
syringe freely, one forcible application being of more service in freeing 
the trees from red spider than many sprinklings. 
Trees Ripening the Fruit. —Ventilate the house freely, leaving a 
little air on constantly, and to insure the preservation of the foliage in 
health sprinkle the paths, borders, and other bare surfaces with water 
in the morning and afternoon, not allowing the soil to become dry, but 
giving due supplies of water as required. A light mulching of short 
spent material is very useful in preventing the surface cracking and the 
roots going down in quest of moisture. Syringing must cease directly 
the fruit commences to soften for ripening, or the moisture will cause 
the skin to crack and leave an unpleasant musty flavour, as well as 
spoiling its appearance. Some netting placed beneath the trees is useful 
to prevent falling fruits being bruised ; but let the netting be 
“ pocketed,” so as to prevent the fruit clashing against each other. In 
gathering the fruit great care is necessary, as slight pressure is sufficient 
to spoil the appearance. 
Trees Swelling-off Their Fruit. —After the fruit has stoned and is 
taking the last swelling give every attention to the trees in watering 
with liquid manure or feeding with top-dressing of chemical manures 
washed in, mulching the surface lightly with short manure. The shoots 
should be allowed to extend where there is space, not pinching the laterals 
too closely, but they must be prevented shading the fruit, which should 
be raised with the apex to the fullest light. This can be effected by 
placing laths across the trellis, securing them to the wires. Continue 
forcible syringing morning and afternoon until the fruit begins ripening, 
then cease; but do not allow the border and other surfaces to become 
parchingly dry, as moderate moisture, provided the ventilation is liberal, 
will not injure the fruit, and it is absolutely essential for the benefit of 
the foliage. 
Succession Houses. —Trees started in February are stoning, those 
brought forward gently having the fruit of good size, as is always the 
, case when the trees are not hurried nor overcropped, and well attended 
to as regards nourishment and proper exposure of the foliage to light and 
air, with free ventilation on all favourable occasions. To continue the 
fruit in steady progress, and insure its stoning satisfactorily, there must 
not be any deficiency nor excess of moisture at the roots, and the 
foliage should be kept clean by daily syringings, and if necessary by 
the application of an insecticide. Continue the temperature at 60° to 
65° artificially, allowing a free circulation of air between 70° and 75°, 
having it full when the latter is reached, and close at 75° with abundance 
of atmospheric moisture. If the temperature rises to 80° or 85° it will not 
do any harm, but admit a little air after nightfall, so as to allow the 
pent-up moisture to escape and the temperature to gradually cool 
through the night. Commence increasing the ventilation from 65° with 
the advancing sun. 
Late Homes. —If it is desired to retard the fruit in any of these, so 
as to prolong the season of supply, it is best effected by free ventilation 
during the day and night when mild ; indeed, there is only need to 
ventilate day and night to keep back the crop, so as to ripen about 
the same time, as usually occurs with trees against walls, and by 
judicious ventilation the fruit may be had over a lengthened period. It 
is necessary not to overburden the trees with more fruit in the early 
stages of growth than can remain for the crop, a moderate one being 
always better than a heavy crop ; therefore thin well in the early stages, 
•leaving a few more than will be required ultimately. Keep the trees 
well syringed, and mulch lightly, so as to keep the surface moist, thereby 
encouraging roots to the surface, giving thorough applications of water 
when necessary, and if the trees are weak and carrying heavy crops of 
fruit, afford liquid manure or top-dressings of chemical manures. 
Pines.— Fruit Ripening. —When the fruits commence ripening 
syringing must cease, but the supply of moisture at the roots should be 
continued, affording water as necessary. With a view to improve the 
quality of the fruit, ventilate whenever circumstances permit, but do not 
allow the temperature to fall below 80° in the daytime, applying fire heat 
to maintain a night temperature of 70° to 75°, gradually reducing the 
moisture in the house. Queen and Providence Pines started in February 
will ripen this month, coming in about three weeks or a month before 
Oharlotte Rothschild, Smooth-leaved Cayenne, and similar varieties 
started at the same time and under similar conditions. They afford a 
successional supply which may be still further extended by removing 
some of the plants with the fruits to a cooler house. Although the 
Providence is not equal to a Queen Pine in quality, yet its size being 
superior, it is desirable to grow a limited number, as large fruits are 
useful at parties, if only for effect in table decorations. The heat at the 
roots should be 85° to 90°. 
Plants for Winder Fruiting. —The strongest plants of those in the 
fruiting pots last September will now be showing fruit, if not means 
must not be further delayed to effect it for a supply of fruit for winter 
use. Bring the plants together and subject them to a comparative rest 
for the next month or six weeks, lowering the heat at the roots to 75°, 
maintaining a free circulation of air about the plants in favourable 
weather, ventilating a". 75°, and allowing the heat to fall to that degree 
before closing the house, only employing fire heat to prevent the 
temperature fading below 60° at night, not withholding water 
altogether, but whenever a plant becomes dry afford a proper supply 
The smaller suckers of last autumn that were wintered in 7 and 8-inch 
pots, and shifted this spring, must be kept growing until the pots are 
well filled with roots, at which time, if considered necessary, they may 
be subjected to the same treatment as advised for the larger ones, and 
those plants will then give a successional supply of fruit. 
Spring.potted Suchers. —The strongest of those potted in March 
must be in their largest pots, if not there should be no further delay, as 
to allow them to become root-bound is detrimental to their after well¬ 
doing. Recently potted plants require regular bottom heat of 85° to 
95°, and to be thoroughly watered, if the soil be dry, after potting, not 
giving any more until the soil again needs a supply. A too wet soil is 
not favourable to the formation of roots, moderate moisture only being 
needed. 
Ventilating^ Watering, and Shading.— stock will be making 
rapid progress, and must be regularly attended to in every particular, 
allowing such plants sufficient space for development, as nothing is so 
prejudicial to sturdy growth as crowding in the early stages. Ventilate 
early in the day at 75° to 80°, to render the foliage dry before it is 
affected by the sun. Examine the plants twice a week for watering, 
not giving any until it is needed, and then a thorough soaking with tepid 
liquid manure, being careful not to give it too strong. Discontinue 
shading succession plants ; but those fruiting with the crowns in close 
proximity to the glass will require a slight shading from powerful sun. 
Syringe the plants on bright afternoonSfand otherwise maintain a genial 
condition of the atmosphere by sprinkling the house, but avoid moisture 
in dull weather, as it only tends to cause soft growth. So long as water 
remains in the axils of the leaves syringing is not much required, there¬ 
fore pour the water well up the plants, as the leaves have roots at their 
base that contribute to the vigour of the plants and swelling of the 
fruits. _ . j 
Potting Soldiers. —The early-fruited plants as they finish will afford 
suckers, which should be taken off and started at once in sufficient 
quantity to meet the demand, which will afford plants for fruiting about 
this time next year, forming supplementary plants to those started in 
the spring. The treatment then given will answer for these, only they 
will require more careful shading and frequent attention to damping, 
keeping close until rooted, as indicated by their commencing to grow. 
Cucumbers. —In houses fire heat will only be necessary to prevent 
the temperature falling below 65° at night and to insure 70° to 75° by 
day artificially. Attend well to stopping the shoots, removing bad 
leaves, well thinning the old growths, and watering with weak liquid 
manure about twice a week. To encourage surface roots sprinkle the 
bed with sweetened horse droppings once or twice a week, and 
occasionally with a little soot or some approved fertiliser, both of which 
will supply nourishment to the roots and give off some ammonia. 
Utilising Empty Structures. —Houses cleared of Vines in pots. 
Strawberries or bedding plants, may be usefully devoted to Cucumbers, 
They can be grown well in boxes of 15 inches depth and 18 to 24 inches 
square. A wood or other trellis may be improved at 18 inches from the 
glass. No fire heat will be necessary, the house being closed at 3 to 4 P.M., 
or earlier, according to the sun being clear or overcast, syringing then, 
the fioors and every available surface being kept dainp, so as to secure a 
good moisture through the day ; but do not syringe in the morning, this 
often being the cause of great mischief to the foliage. Admit air at 75°, 
and allow the temperature to rise to 85° or 90° with sun, and close 
between 80° and 85°, and if the temperature rise to 90° or 95° all the 
better. Train with a single stem to the trellis, rubbing off all laterals 
to that height, then allow to grow ; pinch the leader after it has grown 
two-thirds across the trellis. The laterals must be stopped one or two 
joints bevond the show of fruit. 
Pits and Frames. —Water the plants about 4 P.M., closing then or 
earlier according to the weather, but it is not safe to close so early as to 
raise the temperature above 90° or 95°. Liquid manure should be given 
occasionally, but not over the foliage, and not applying it too often. 
Keep the growths fairly thin, thinning out old shoots and encouraging 
others in their place, so as to keep up a succession of bearing wood. Stop 
one or two joints beyond the show for fruit. Avoid crowding, also 
overcropping, and do not allow the fruit to remain on the plants a day 
longer than can be helped. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Asparagus. —Very hot weather in May hastened the growth of 
Asparagus. With many growers it is the rule to cease cutting on or 
about June 15th. and this date should certainly be the latest this year. 
Besides, Peas ought to be fairly plentiful by that time in most warm 
