Jane 20, 1895, 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
553 
Grapes in keeping their coloar. Moderate moisture will not injure the 
Grapes if accompanied by free ventilation. Keep laterals fairly under, 
but a little extension will assist in the retention of the principal 
leaves, and on their continuance in health depends the maturity of 
the buds for next year’s crop. 
Grapes Ripening .—When the berries commence changing colour 
admit a little air constantly, with sufficient heat in the pipes to main¬ 
tain a night temperature of 65° and 70° to 75° by day, with 80° to 85° or 
90° from sun heat. Avoid an arid atmosphere, damping occasionally, 
and do not allow the border to become dry. Vices ripening heavy crops 
will be assisted in perfecting them and storing food for the future by 
an occasional application of tepid liquid manure, or a top-dressing of 
some approved fertiliser washed in, operating in the morning, and 
choosing a fine day, so that superabundant moisture will be dispersed 
before evening. A light mulching of dry spent material will assist the 
Vines by securing uniform moisture and keeping the roots near the sur¬ 
face whilst avoiding excess of moisture, and thus preventing cracking. 
It is a confined atmosphere that does much of the mischief in Grapes 
spotting and cracking, therefore leave a little air on constantly and 
increase it early in the day. 
Scalding and Scorchhig ,—A gentle warmth in the pipes and a little 
ventilation constantly, with an increase by the time the sun begins to 
act on the house in the morning, and somewhat free circulation by day, 
makes all the difference between scalding and non-scalding, also between 
scorching and non-scorching. Occasionally Muscats are scalded or 
scorched when the berries are exposed to the direct rays of the sun in the 
most carefully ventilated structure, and chiefly at the higher parts of 
the house, furthest from the hot-water pipes, which points m the 
direction of atmospheric moisture condensed on the berries during the 
night, or before air is given, being the cause of the mischief, which is 
certainly not an ailment, but a cultural defect, an excess of watery 
vapour, and subsequent heating or scalding. In the northern parts of 
the kingdom the sun’s rays acting through large panes of glass are 
so powerful that scorching sometimes takes place under the most 
advantageous conditions of heat and ventilation. It therefore becomes 
necessary when the Grapes are ripening to afford a slight shade, as that 
of a herring net over the roof lights, in order to subdue the fierce direct 
rays of the sun, which not only insures the more even swelling of the 
berries, but their immunity, other conditions being favourable, from 
scalding, and the greater regularity of the colouring. Black Hamburghs 
seem to colour best beneath a good spread of foliage, but all require 
thorough exposure of the foliage to air and light. 
Late Grapes. — There must not be any delay in thinning the 
berries and bunches. Nothing is so fatal to perfect finish as over¬ 
cropping. To burden a Vine with more Grapes than it can swell well 
and evenly, is to cause it to ripen the fruit later, and leave doubts as 
to the berries colouring and having that amount of saccharine matter 
stored in them which secures their sound keeping. Thin well to secure 
large and highly finished berries, leaving those of the larger berriei 
varieties about an inch apart, the oval-berried kinds not requiring so 
much room as the round ones ; but all should be thinned so that they 
will have space for swelling to their fullest extent without wedging, and 
yet be so close that when dished they will retain their form. Loose 
bunches that show the footstalks are not pleasing, however fine the 
berries, as those more compact. Some twist the shoulder inwards so as 
to give sprawling bunches a compact form, something like an inverted 
Bugarloaf. Shy-setting varieties are often thin of berries through the 
number of stoneless ones that must be removed, to guard against which 
no pains should be spared in getting the wood ripe and in fertilising the 
bunches when in flower with Black Hamburgh pollen, or that of other 
free-setting sorts. A pound of Grapes per foot run of rod is usually as 
many as most Vines can finish well, therefore reduce the bunches so as 
to give about that weight, and if an error is made let it be on the safe 
side, as Vines that are overburdened never finish the fruit well, and it is 
inferior in keeping qualities. 
Regulate, the Growths .—Allow all foliage to remain that can have 
full exposure to light, but when the space is fairly covered with leaves 
keep the shoots closely pinched. An excess of foliage is not good, 
though it is often encouraged with a view to root action, but it 
is elaborated juices that build up the structure of the Vine, the crop of 
the current year and the wood and buds that give the fruit of the 
next. The foliage should be rather thinner in the case of white Grapes 
than in black ; this more particularly applies to Muscats, which of all 
Grapes require high elaboration of the sap to insure their assuming the 
rich golden amber so much prized. Avoid large reductions of foliage at 
a time ; it only tends to induce shanking through the check given the 
roots. 
Keep the growths tied down from the glass and so prevent scorching. 
Vines extending must be allowed to make as much lateral growth as 
practicable, always bearing in mind the wood on which the fruit is to 
be borne next season must have full exposure for its foliage, as it is the 
principal leaves that elaborate the sap and transmit the assimilated 
matter that forms the buds at the base. The laterals from these having 
been stopped at the first joint, they may be allowed to extend afterwards, 
subject to their not interfering with the access of light to the main 
leaves. 
Watering and Feeding .—Inside borders must be well supplied with 
water, following in the case of Vines that are carrying full crops and in 
good, but not too vigorous health, with liquid manure, mulching lightly 
with short lumpy material, which, if kept moist, will give off ammonia 
and attract the roots to the surface. If more aliment is wanted supply 
sulphate of ammonia where the soil is strong, but not chalky or parti¬ 
cularly calcareous; where the soil is light, also very calcareous, use 
nitrate of soda. From half to one ounce of either of these salts is enough, 
repeating at intervals of three or four weeks. If the Vines require 
solidity use superphosphate of lime, say 2 or 3 ozs. per square yard, and 
if the foliage is pale in colour add half an ounce of powdered saltpetre 
and one-eighth ounce sulphate of iron. These are best given after the 
border has been watered, following with a light watering after their 
application. Do not allow the border to become and remain dry at the 
surface. Neglect in watering borders that are well drained, and mulch¬ 
ing, especially where the Vines are carrying heavy crops, is not only 
disastrous to the present crop, through inducing attacks of red spider 
and premature ripening of the foliage, but injuriously affecting next 
year’s crop of fruit. Outside borders may only need a light mulch, but 
where rains have not fallen, or if dry, give a soaking st liquid manure, 
or supply water, then a top-dressing of the advertised fertilisers, and 
wash in lightly whenever necessary. 
Temperature and Ventilation. — Cold nights render fires still 
necessary. All late Grapes thrive best in a high temperature, with 
abundant food at the roots and a genial atmosphere. Fires should be 
employed to maintain a night temperature of 65°, and 70° to 75° by day 
in dull weather. Admit air early, allowing a little ventilation at the 
top of the house constantly, increasing the ventilation with the tempera¬ 
ture. Advance to 85° or 90° with sun heat, at which keep through the 
day by that means, reducing the ventilation with the declining sun. 
Close at 85°, damping the paths well then, and again before nightfall. 
It is well to close for a short time, and afterwards admit a little air, 
which will prevent a vitiated atmosphere, and allow of the foliage 
drying in the morning by the time the sun acts powerfully. Late 
Grapes cannot well be given the fullest advantage of the sun’s heat; 
therefore, make the most of it by judicious ventilation, and aiding with 
artificial heat so as to keep them in steady progress, avoiding cold 
draughts or sudden depressions of temperature, as this cause rust and 
favours the spread of mildew and other pests. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Hearing is one thing, and seeing another. We read of the 
glorious weather, and of bees gathering honey in galore, but ocular 
demonstration shows brown pastures, gardens, fields, and roadways 
strewn with leaves as if autumn was on us ; confirmed by the 
thermometer sinking to 30° at night for a whole week, railway 
sheets covered with ice, and the leaves of Walnut trees frosted 
down, and occasional sleety showers, bees being fed while they 
remain at a standstill. 
Many hives throughout the country are suffering from chloric 
dropsical fever, which simply means lost hives, no use for this year, 
and which cannot be satisfactory for another ; in point of 
loss, foul brood cannot be compared to it. 
Foul brood is easily dealt with, but as yet no cure is known for 
chloric dropsical fever. In 1893 at this date surplus honey was 
the rule. This year, unless in a few cases and fed hives, there are 
no swarms yet. In 1870-72 about the same date the frost was 
severe, cutting the Potatoes to the ground, and by the 28th August 
there was a repetition, being ten days more than two months for 
tender things to grow, and were barren years for honey. 
Water is scarce in the hill districts, as well as in the lowlands, 
and a spring in my garden was never known to be so low. Birds 
are desperate for want of it, the sparrows pecking many green 
vegetables, and the leaves of some trees, and bees when forgotten, 
in vain, endeavour to sip water from dampish places. Fruit 
prospects are not so good as they were a month since, and as the 
Clover is spoiled in some places "by the drought, there must be 
copious rain before it springs and blooms again, which will be 
out of season. Honey from that source will not be generally 
plentiful. 
In hopes of writing in a better strain, I delayed this copy till 
the 15th, but the deplorable weather has become worse. The haulm 
of my Potatoes is frosted to the main stems ; many flowers are 
shorn of their beauty, bright sunshine continues with alternate 
north-easterly and north-westerly winds, and clouds of dust. The 
thermometer at midday fluctuated between 55 ° and 58°, and bees 
are almost idle or flying about listlessly. 
It has always been my practice to prepare young stocks for 
another year at an early date, simultaneously with supering and 
depriving, but at present it (unless a favourable change comes) 
will be my only work, and even that will be performed with some 
difficulty, as drones are not permitted to live. Feeding one hive 
more than is necessary will have to be done in order to insure 
fertile queens. This may be rather too much of a pessimistic 
view, but we have had similar experience, and cannot forget the 
