March 14,1695. 
JOUR^^AL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
2:59 
give an undesirable check to the leaves, but when they are fairly formed 
at the stopping joint, say the size of a halfpenny to a penny, they may 
be stopped without prejudice at two or four joints beyond the fruit 
according to space. The laterals may be stopped at one joint up to the 
bunches, or be removed altogether, except from the two lowest leaves, 
those above the fruit being allowed to make tw'o or more joints before 
being pinched, no more foliage being encouraged than can have full 
exposure to light, and where the space is limited stopping to one joint 
of the lateral and sub-lateral growths is most consistent with good 
results. Raise the temperature to 60° at night, 65° by day from fire 
heat, and 75° to 80° with sun heat, but this should be secured by the 
time the Vines come into leaf, as frequently stated in these columns. 
Houses to Afford Fruit in August and September. —The Vines must 
now be started, making the inside border duly moist to the drainage,and 
if the Vines are weakly follow with some rather thick or strong liquid 
manure, not from minerals or chemicals, but from stables and cow¬ 
houses. Failing this, top-dress with blood and bone manure or native 
guano, something that will supply some amount of humus. On the 
other hand, if the Vines are quite vigorous enough, and produce some¬ 
what long-jointed wood with thin flabby leaves, use chemical manures, 
especially silicates, and leave on the surface for watering in. If the 
soil be of a close and moist nature superphosphate, basic slag, and 
gypsum would be useful dressings, taking equal proportions and apply¬ 
ing a pound per square yard, pointing in lightly. The outside border 
should receive similar attention, a slight protective material being all 
that is necessary to exclude frost from the soil at this time of year. A 
moderately moist atmosphere should be secured by damping the rods and 
every available surface two or three times a day, maintaining a night 
temperature of 50°, 55° by day artificially, and 65° with sun. 
Late Houses. —Late Grapes require all the sun’s light and heat that 
can safely be secured for them from April to September, with such 
assistance from fire heat as to secure steady development, sustain the 
progress made, and complete the ripening of the crop in the last named 
month. The Vines now started will have a chance to produce good sized 
and highly finished fruit, and such as possess good keeping qualities. 
Syringe the rods in the morning and afternoon, and damp the paths and 
borders before nightfall. Maintain the night temperature for these 
Vines at 50° to 55°; 55° to 60° by day, and 10° to 15° more from sun heat, 
with rather free ventilation from 65°. 
Vines from Eyes .—Those rooted from buds in February and potted off 
should be shifted as soon as the roots reach the sides of the small pots into 
others 6 inches indiameter, placing them on shelves over hot-water pipes in 
preference to plunging them in bottom heat. Syringe them in the 
morning and early afternoon, damping other surfaces in the evening, so 
as to insure a genial atmosphere. Pinch the laterals at the first leaf, 
and subsequently sub-laterals as made to the same extent of growth, 
and if the lead divide into two remove the weakest and worst placed. 
Cut-hack Vines in Pots. —Those for fruiting in pots or planting out 
in prepared narrow and shallow beds for fruiting next season will be fit 
for turning out of the soil, and after cutting back any straggling bare 
roots, place in 7 or 8-inch pots, from which they may be transferred when 
established to 12 or 13-inch pots, or be planted out in the beds. If 
these Vines have been plunged in bottom heat they may be returned to 
it for a short time, otherwise bottom heat is not necessary, the prefer¬ 
able plan being to place the pots on slate shelves over hot-waier pipes 
and train the canes about a foot from the glass, as they cannot have too 
much light, and it is important that the growth be solidified as made. 
Turfy loam, rather rough, with a sixth of old mortar rubbish, and a good 
handful of some approved fertiliser to every bushel of loam, form a suit¬ 
able compost for Vines in pots. Clean pots and efficient drainage of 
clean crocks must be employed in the culture of these Vines. Keep 
moist and close until established, it being better to employ a slight 
shade in the hottest part of the day than allow the Vines to become 
stunted in growth. 
Cucumbers.—Increased light and sun heat necessitates a corre¬ 
spondingly greater supply of atmospheric moisture, therefore damp the 
house in the morning and evening, syringing the plants lightly in the 
afternoons of bright days, or if dull damp the floors and walls instead of 
syringing the plants. A night temperature of 65° is sufficient, allowing 
an advance of 5° when the external air is mild, 60° being the minimum 
in the morning when the weather is cold. Get the heat up early after 
daylight, so as to have a temperature of 70° to 75° between 8 and 9 A.M., 
ventilating a little at the latter figure, with the prospect of an advance 
from sun heat, keeping the heat from this at 80° to 90°, and close early 
so as to secure the latter or even more from that source. Liquid manure 
may be given once or twice a week, and the evaporation troughs kept 
charged with it. Liquid manure, however, is best given alternating 
with^ top-dressings of chemical manures. Cucumbers requiring phos¬ 
phoric acid, potash, and nitrogen in large amounts ; hence five parts 
superphosphate, three parts sulphate of potash, and two parts nitrate of 
soda, mixed and applied at the rate of 4 ozs. per square yard, give good 
results in gro» tb, fruit, and immunity from animal micro-organisms. 
Dressings of this nature about every three weeks keep the plants in good 
health, other conditions being favourable. Thin the fruits well, 
especially on plants just coming into bearing, stopping the shoots one 
joint beyond the fruit, removing superfluous growths and bad leaves as 
they appear, as well as tendrils and staminate blossoms. 
Cucumbers in Pits and Frames. —The weather has given these 
complete quietus in some places, and in all the progress has been slow, 
M it was difficult to maintain the temperature at a point calculated to 
promote steady growth. Now the weather is more favourable the plants 
are improving, and should be encouraged by careful attention to the 
linings, taking care to avoid rank steam, and be cautious in ventilating, 
maintaining the temperature advised for Melons. Continue to prepare 
material for making fresh beds and lining purposes, and sow seeds as 
successional plants are required. 
melons In Houses. —Hot-water-heated structures have proved 
their advantages over manure-heated pits and frames for forcing 
purposes, and chambered beds their superiority over rubble ones during 
the recent severe weather. Any plants shifted into larger pots, and 
being intended for planting out, should be given their fruiting quarters 
before they become very much root-bound. Pot later-sown plants when 
they show the second leaves, employing warm moist soil. Maintain a 
night temperature of 65° to 70°, 5° less on cold nights ; 70° to 75° by 
day, admitting a little air at 75°, allowing the temperature to rise to 85°, 
with increased ventilation, advancing to 90°, closing by or before 80° or 
85° is reached in declining order, and so as to advance 5° to 10°, 
sprinkling at the same time all parts of the house below the plants, 
even lightly sprinkling these on bright afternoons. Keep the bottom 
heat steady at 80°, or that of the soil 70° to 75°. 
Melons in Manure-heated Frames. — The plants sown early in 
February will be fit to plant out, the bed having been made for them 
and the soil warmed, with a sweet atmosphere secured. Where a 
successional supply of fruit has to be maintained, and the means are 
limited to frames, a sowing should be made every fortnight or three 
weeks up to May, making fresh beds at similar intervals to receive the 
plants, so as to maintain an unbroken supply of fruit. Maintain a 
night temperature of 65°, and 70° to 75° by day, this being effected 
by timely attention to the linings and coverings over the lights at 
night, admitting air from 75°, but without lowering the temperature or 
admitting cold cutting air, and keep through the day at 80° to 85°, or 
even 90°, securing this well on towards night by closing early in the 
afternoon, having due regard to the safety of the foliage. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Beet. —A scarcity of other vegetables has increased the demand for 
Beet, and the supply will in many cases be exhausted too quickly 
accordingly. In order to avoid a very long break in the supply the 
attempt should be made to procure some roots from the open ground 
earlier than usual. The Turnip-rooted or Egyptian form is the first 
ready for use. Sow seeds at once thinly in boxes, and place in gentle 
heat to germinate. When the seedlings are about 4 inches high harden, 
and plant 6 inches apart in rows 1 foot asunder, on a warm border. 
Protect from spring frosts by means of benders and mats, or a few 
branches of evergreens, and in this way obtain a number of very 
acceptable roots long before any sown in the open early next month will 
be ready for pulling. 
Carrots. —For reasons already given there is certain to be an extra¬ 
ordinary demand for young Carrots, in fact too few of these are forth¬ 
coming in most seasons. If possible supplement those raised in a frame 
on mild hotbed with another sowing, and also sow Nantes Horn in a 
warm border. 
Jerusalem Artichokes. —Just now these are doing good service, 
and there is every likelihood of there being a greater demand for them 
in other winters. The white-skinned form is considered superior to the 
old coloured variety. Plant in rows 3 feet apart, running from north to 
south, in freely worked fertile but not richly manured soil. 
Iiceks. —In not a few gardens Leeks are the only green vegetable 
alive, and as a consequence fewer than usual will be allowed to run to 
seed. Very fine samples are sometimes desirable for showing in the late 
summer and autumn months, the plants being raised under glass. It is, 
however, during the late winter and early spring months when Leeks 
are most in demand. Sow immediately in the open thinly in drills 
6 inches apart, and plant straight from the seed-bed as soon as the plants 
are 12 inches high. Musselburgh and Ay ton Castle Giant are varieties 
hardy and good in every way. 
Potatoes. —No crop better repays for deep cultivation and thorough 
preparation of the soil than does the Potato. A good depth of soil, not 
merely with a fine surface and lumps of cold, unworkable soil under¬ 
neath, but well pulverised all through, is essential. Only a few 
early rows in warm positions should be planted as yet, deferring the 
principal work till April ; then commence with the later varieties, and 
finish with the bulk of early and second early sorts. 
Peas. —Only those who are able to raise a considerable number of 
plants under glass in pots, troughs, or boxes will be able to gather Peas 
very early this year. Sowing seeds in the open before the ground 
was thawed completely would have been no gain. Soaking the seeds 
in water till they have sprouted before sowing may result in a gain of 
several days. With the first early sorts may also be sown one or more 
of such good successional varieties as Gradus, Wordsley Wonder, Perfect 
Gem, Carter’s Daisy, and such taller growers as Telephone, Duke of 
Albany, Criterion, or other selected varieties. All should be disposed in 
rows as far apart as the known height of the variety, and in deeply 
worked, well prepared soil. 
Planting out Peas. —Any raised under glass must not be 
kept very long in the boxes or pots, or otherwise premature 
flowering will result. Those in small pots should be planted intact 
before they become much root-bound, while those in boxes ought to be 
shaken nearly clear of the soil so as to save the longest roots, the latter 
being sunk deeply in trenches formed with a spade at planting time. 
Plant moderately thick, as it is a quick, heavy crop rather than a 
more continuous one that is most to be desired, and fix the soil about 
