March 21, 1895. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
261 
numbers as to provide main branches or subsidiary ones at 12 inches 
apart. Commence tying down early, as when the shoots are allowed 
to grow to a considerable length they cannot be brought near to the 
wood they proceed from without danger of breaking. Avoid over¬ 
crowding the growths, as it is fatal to fine, highly coloured fruits, and 
to the sound formation and thorough maturation of the wood of future 
crops. Thin the fruits by degrees, leaving those well exposed to light 
and in good place for swelling on the upper side of the bearing wood, 
always in sufficient quantity for the crop, with some over for con¬ 
tingencies, In no case is it good practice to tax the trees with 
superfluous fruit after it is of the size of marbles. Temperature 55’’ to 
60° at night, 60° to 65° by day artificially, increasing to 70° or 75° with 
gleams of sun, but with ventilation from 65°, ventilating freely between 
70° and 75°, not allowing it to rise above the latter without full 
ventilation. 
Houses Started at the Beginning of February. —The trees are in full 
blossom or setting the fruits. Continue to fertilise the flowers on late 
trees when the pollen is ripe and the house freely ventilated, as, unless 
bees visit the trees, it is not wise to rely on self-fertilisation, and when 
the house from unfavourable external conditions must be kept close, or 
with a small amount of air only, practise fertilisation from about 
10 a.m. to 1 P M. After the fruit is all set recourse must be had to 
syringing in the morning and afternoon of flne days, occasionally only 
in dull weather, and always sufficiently early in the afternoon to allow 
the foliage and young fruit to become dry before nightfall. Attend 
carefully to disbudding, proceeding gradually, and commencing with the 
most vigorous parts, also to thinning the fruit after it is seen which takes 
the lead in swelling, not deferring it after the largest are the size of 
horse beans, removing the smallest first, but avoiding large reductions 
of fruit as well as of shoots at one time. Temperature 55° at night, 
5° less on cold mornings, 55° to 60° by day, ventilating at 60°, freely at 
65°, and fully before 70° is reached, a close atmosphere in the early 
stages tending to lean growths and thin foliage, should be carefully 
avoided, ventilating a little constantly, and increasing it early in the 
day. 
Houses Started in March. —The blossoms are expanding, and syringing 
after the anthers show clear of the petals serves no useful purpose, but 
in dull weather causes the discolouration of the flowers and converts 
the pollen into paste, therefore it should cease with prominence of 
colour in the flowers, but damping the floors and borders on flne days to 
maintain a genial condition of the atmosphere. Admit air freely in 
mild weather, and fertilise the blossoms individually when the pollen 
respectively is ripe. Maintain a night temperature of 45° to 50°, 55° by 
day artificially with a slight increase of ventilation, and 65° by sun heat 
with full air. Leave a little ventilation constantly at the top of the 
house. Where there is a superfluity of flowers, those on the under side 
or at the back of the shoots may be removed expeditiously by drawing 
the hand down the growth. This gives the flowers left a better chance 
of setting the fruit. 
Late Houses. —The buds are well advanced in swelling, and when 
the anthers show in the centres of the expanding blossoms they must be 
kept in safety and steady progress. Turning on the heat in the early 
part of the day assists the fruit in setting, advancing the temperature 
by 8 A.M. to 50° and keeping at that during the day but not more by 
artificial means, with enough ventilation to promote a circulation of air. 
Without such means, and during the prevalence of dull cold weather 
at blossoming time, necessitating closing the ventilators for safety, an 
atmosphere is produced that converts the pollen into paste, and the 
setting of the fruit is indifferent or uneffected. The borders should be 
properly supplied with water, giving sufficient to thoroughly moisten 
the soil through to the drainage. If there be the least trace of aphides 
fumigation must be had recourse to before the flowers expand. 
Cherry House. —After the effectual fertilisation of the flowers the 
swelling of the Cherries proceeds rapidly, and to assist the fruit in 
throwing off the decayed parts of the flowers, as well as to refresh the 
trees and keep insects in check, syringing must be resumed once a day 
in dull weather and twice daily when the weather is clear, the last 
syringing being practised in time for the foliage to become fairly free 
from the water before dusk. Fire heat will only be necessary to prevent 
the temperature falling below 40° at night, and maintain it at 50° during 
the day in dull weather. Ventilate at 50°, closing at the same, regulating 
the ventilation according to circumstances, always having it full at 65°. 
If green aphides appear fumigate the house, having the foliage dry and 
delivering the smoke cool. Keep a sharp look out for grubs, which, if let 
alone, soon spoil the foliage and berries. Stopping will need attention 
when the shoots have made 4 to 5 inches of growth, the points then being 
pinched out. Extensions of growth required for furnishing the trees 
train in full length, removing those shoots that are not required for this 
purpose or forming spars, as overcrowding is prejudicial to the current 
and future crops. 
*'**’*•—Early Forced Trees in Pots.—Th.Q swelling of the fruits 
must be accelerated by top-dressings of rich material applied to the 
surface of the soil, and with the layers of turves placed round the rims, 
or by means of zinc or slate introduced inside the rims of the pots, 
space is afforded for top-dressings. Heavy and too rich dressings do 
more harm than good, a little and often being the most eligible method 
** ^®6®rds top-dressing with either solid or chemical manures. On the 
other hand, driblets of water or liquid manure do little good, but 
thorough supplies so as to pass through the pots are effective. A genial 
atmosphere, maintained by syringing twice a day when the weather is 
®®8®Qtial for the healthy growth of Pig trees, but avoid keeping 
the foliage constantly wet, lessening the syringing in dull periods. 
Sprinkling the paths, walls, and bed two or three times a day secures a 
congenial atmosphere, but forcible syringings occasionally are necessary 
for dislodging red spider, and it must not get ahead, or it will spoil the 
foliage and crop. A little sulphur applied to the hot-water pipes gives 
off fumes that keep the pest in subjection. Admit a little air at 70°, 
increasing it with sun heat to 80°, not allowing an advance over 85° 
without full ventilation, and close at 80°, after which an advance of 
5° to 10° will be beneficial than otherwise. The night temperature may 
still range from 60° to 65°, 55° in the morning in severe weather being 
safer than the higher temperature, advancing to 70° or 75° by artificial 
means in the daytime, except when cold and dull, when the heat should 
be kept at about 65°. Stop the shoots as required to about five leaves, 
tying the shoots as the growths advance, so as to keep the heads 
sufficiently open to admit light and air, preventing overcrowding by 
judicious disbudding. 
Pines. — Suckers. —The rooting of the recently potted is indicated 
by the growth, but this must be ascertained by turning a portion out of 
the pots, and when the bottom heat is excessive the pots be raised, as 
the roots issuing from suckers or recently started plants are tender and 
susceptible of injury. A temperature of 85° is ample when the roots 
reach the sides of the pots, and above this there is danger, therefore 
raise the pots where the bottom heat is likely to injure the roots by 
placing some loose tan under and around them, so as to allow the 
superabundant heat to pass off without injuring the roots, yet according 
a temperature of 80° to 85° about the pots. Careful watering is 
necessary, making a close scrutiny of the soil, and then supplying it 
to such as need a supply at the same temperature as the bed. 
When the plants from suckers or those disrooted become established 
they root rapidly, therefore soil should be prepared for transferring them 
to the fruiting size of pot, as it is important they be grown on without 
check by being either too dry or root-bound. Sound fibrous loam is the 
best material for potting, breaking it up in good sized lumps, pressing 
it firmly down and round the balls of the plants, watering with tepid 
water after potting if the soil be dry, as it only ought to be moderately, 
but if moist water need not be given till the soil needs a supply. 
Plunge the pots in a bottom heat of 90° to 95° until the roots have 
ramified through the fresh soil, when 85° is more suitable. 
Fruiting plants, and those that are at or near the flowering stage, 
should have a night temperature of 65° to 70°, 75° by day, with 80° to 
90° from sun heat, closing at 85°, and well damping the house at that 
time. Afford snccessional plants a bottom heat of 85°, and top heat 5° 
less all round than for the fruiting plants, ventilating at 80°, and 
closing at 85°, lightly sprinkling the plants occasionally. 
Strawberries In Pots, —Until the trusses are showing it is well 
if the temperature does not exceed 50° by artificial means, and between 
that and setting 55° is safe, advancing to 65° by day with free ventila¬ 
tion. Abundance of light is absolutely essential until the fruits are set, 
but afterwards they are liable to become dried, hence they swell best in 
positions where the sun’s rays are not strong at midday, or slight shade 
may be given under direct exposure for a few hours when the sun is 
fierce. After the fruit is set and swelling a temperature of 60° to 65° 
at night, 70° to 75° by day, with an advance from sun heat to 80°, 85°, 
or 90° is desirable, affording copious supplies of water or liquid manure 
until the fruit shows indications of ripening, when somewhat drier and 
more airy atmospheric conditions with diminished supplies of water^ at 
the roots will afford large well-swelled fruit of good flavour. Thinning 
the fruit must be attended to as soon as the setting is completed, 
removing the smallest and deformed fruit, and on no account must there 
be insufficient water at the roots during the swelling, but at the flower¬ 
ing stage undue moisture or the opposite extreme is prejudicial, suffice 
that the soil be kept healthfully moist. The chief object in Strawberry 
forcing is to secure an early and unbroken supply until those in the open 
ground come in, and this, where there are a number of houses started at 
intervals, will admit of its being done without much trouble or change 
of plants, whilst in others some tact will be necessary to meet the 
requirements. All plants should now be in position for advancement 
by gently forcing, or if not they should be brought under glass without 
further delay. Some may be advanced in houses where there is a gentle 
heat, and others by placing them in cool houses where they will come 
on gradually, in all cases examining and rectifying defective drainage, 
cleansing the pots and surface soil. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Bapld Propagation.— Owing to heavy losses among the stocks of 
Zonal Pelargoniums, Calceolarias, and Violas, there will of necessity be 
much more propagation of other kinds of plants to be done in order to 
make good these deficits. Verbenas, Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Ageratums, 
Iresines, Coleuses, and such like can be rooted and grown to a service¬ 
able size very quickly, always provided the cuttings are forthcoming in 
sufficiently large quantities. The surest and quickest way of rooting 
young tops of any of these plants is to place them thickly in watertight 
pans or saucers half filled with silver sand, and kept constantly supplied 
with water. These pans or saucers may be set on the hot-water pipes m 
a forcing house. Roots will form quickly, and there will be few or no 
failures. Directly the cuttings are well rooted shift the pans to rather 
cooler quarters, and before the roots become matted together either 
place the plants singly in small pots or more in boxes, using a rather light 
compost, previously warmed, in any case. Under this treatment, the 
plants being kept in heat, there will be no serious check given to their 
growth, and the tops will soon be long enough for making into cuttings. 
Tuberous Begonias.— Seeds sown this year have not germinated 
quite so well as usual, this being probably due in many instances to the 
