Karcb 28, 1895. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
281 
these only being properly fertilised and will stone and swell perfectly. 
Allow sufficient space for each berry to attain full development 
without wedging, yet no more, as loose bunches are even worse than 
somewhat close bat not deformed berries. Thinning is a matter of 
judgment, being determined by the variety, capabilities of the Vines, 
and the crops. 
Watering, Feeding. —In the early stages of growth Vines require a 
moist soil only, anything like a soddened condition imlucing a feeble 
break and retardation of root formation. Such condition often arises 
from a rich and close state of the border, for where the soil is open and 
well drained it can only hold water to the extent of its retentive power, 
consequently it is always sweet, as fresh supplies merely dislodge such 
surplus, and may have advantages from a sanitary point of view. When 
Vines come into leaf they push fresh roots and require water more 
abundantly, this being determined by the staple and area. A narrow 
border will require water twice as often as one double the width, 
assuming the Vines to be equally extended and cropped, and a border of 
loose materials will require watering much more frequently than one 
formed of firm retentive materials. The cultivator, therefore, must be 
guided by the state of the Vines in relation to their rooting medium and 
area. Examination of the border is the only safe plan, and when water 
is necessary afford a thorough supply. Surface dressings of the approved 
chemical manures should be applied after the soil has been duly 
moistened and then be washed in moderately. About 4 ozs. per square 
yard is a proper quantity to apply at one time, the first being supplied 
when the Vines are coming into leaf, another when the Grapes are 
setting, and afterwards every month or six weeks till the berries change 
colour for ripening, when the last may be given. This will help the 
Vines considerably at their most important stages of growth, extra 
feeding being given to weakly and heavily cropped canes. In the case 
of outside borders the top-dressing should be applied if possible with a 
prospect of moderate rains following, so as to get it into the soil, but 
without danger of its being washed clean away by heavy downpours. 
Liquid manure should always be applied tepid, never very strong, and 
preferably after the soil has been made moderately moist. Manure 
water should be about the colour of beer, or neat stable and cowhouse 
drainings be diluted with six times the bulk of water. A pound of the 
advertised fertilisers to 20 gallons of water is usually quite strong 
enough, about 4 gallons per square yard of such solution as a rule 
constitutes an average watering. Of course, four times the quantity 
will be required to bring the soil into a properly moist condition if it 
has been allowed to become very dry, but such must first be effected by 
clear water and then follow with the liquid manure. In light soils or 
with the roots near the surface a light mulch of sweetened horse drop¬ 
pings, say an inch thick, will be of benefit, it being better to apply the 
light dressing and add to it from time to time than supply a heavier 
coat. For very light open soils a mulch of cow manure is preferable, as 
it holds moisture better, and when the roots are working in the surface 
soil advertised fertilisers can be furnished with great benefit, as they 
supply nutrient matter in proportion to the amount of humus and 
counteract its otherwise over-luxuriant tendencies. 
Late Vines. —Judicious syringings aid the breaking of the Vines, as 
the flow and diffusion of the sap depends on a moist genial temperature, 
but excessive sprinkling and a confined atmosphere provokes aerial 
roots, which betray an indifferent condition at the roots proper. Syring¬ 
ing in the morning, and at closing time or early in the afternoon, 
suffices for the rods, and damping down before nightfall secures a steady 
amount of moisture in the atmosphere. A minimum temperature should 
be secured to the Vines at starting, advancing to 65° from sun heat; 
but when the buds break the heat should be gradually raised, so as to 
have it 60° to 65° at night by the time they are in leaf, 65° artificially 
by day, 70° to 75° with gleams of sun, and 80° to 85° or 90° on bright 
days, ventilating from 75° and freely above it. Vigorous canes should 
be depressed, so as to secure ari equal break, even depressing refractory 
canes below the horizontal line to prevent a rush of sap to the upper 
part until the eyes have started evenly from the base, when the canes 
may be brought up to the wires. If the canes push more than one 
shoot from an eye rub off the weakest, leaving one only, deferring 
further disbudding until the bunches become visible. 
Young Vines. —Those planted last season and cut back to the base of 
the trellis at the winter pruning should be encouraged by gentle fire 
heat—say 55° at night and on cold days, so as to encourage them into 
growth; give benefit of the summer sun, and allow time for making and 
completing a good growth. Pinch the laterals at the first joint up to a 
height of 6 feet, and to one of subsequent growth, above which they 
may be allowed more freedom, but such growth only favours root 
development and a sturdy rod formation, and is only desirable in the 
case of weakly Vines. The laterals must not be allowed to interfere 
with the principal leaves in any way, which, for the proper assimilation 
of food, must have full exposure to light, so as to secure plump fruit 
buds, especially on the lower part of the canes. 
Planting Young Vines. —When the growths of the canes are an inch 
or two long they should be transferred to the border. If cut-backs of 
last year’s eyes they may be shaken out and placed in position either 
before or after they have started to the extent named, the roots being 
disentangled and spread out evenly in the border, covering the main 
roots about 3 inches deep, and watering moderately to settle the soil 
about them. Vines of the present year’s raising will not be fit for 
planting out before May or June, but where the turf system is practised 
they should be transferred to their permanent quarters before they have 
rooted beyond the turves; It is a good practice, however, to rub off the 
first roots appearing outside the turves, which induces a fibrous root 
formation quite close to the stem, and when the turves are well occupied 
with such the sooner they are planted the better. Likewise, Vines in 
pots must not be allowed to become much root-bound before placing 
them in their permanent quarters. The Vines require a temperature of 
60° to 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day with gleams of sun, and 10* to 15° 
advance on bright days, maintaining a good moisture by syringing in 
the morning and afternoon, damping other surfaces as they become dry 
so as to secure a genial atmosphere. Dormant Vines should be allowed 
to start naturally, or not be subjected to a higher temperature than 
60° to 55° artificially, and 65° by day from sun heat, with free ventila¬ 
tion above that point. 
Vines for Early Fruiting in Pots. —Cut-backs of last year’s raising 
should receive their final shift into pots 12 inches in diameter, which 
must be dean and efficiently drained, clean crocks or oyster shells 
being preferable to half-inch bones. Good turfy loam, with a sixth of old 
mortar rubbish and a twelfth of charcoal “ nuts,” form a suitable 
compost, adding about a quart of soot to each bushel of loam, or half 
that amount of some approved fertiliser. Pot firmly, using the compost 
rather rough. Place the pots in a position where they will receive 
moderate warmth from hot-water pipes in preference to plunging in 
bottom heat, but in this case the heat should not exceed 80° to 85°, and 
the Vines not be allowed to remain so long that roots enter the plunging 
material. Keep the house rather close, and if the weather be bright 
shade for a few days. It is important that the canes be trained near 
the glass so as to receive all the light possible and insure the thorough 
ripening of the wood, which for satisfactory fruit production must be 
solidified as made. Pinch the laterals at the first joint, and treat 
subsequent growths similarly, stopping the lead at about 8 feet. 
THE KITCHEN GABDEN. 
Asparasas. —Asparagus beds ought to be attended to without 
further delay. If the old-fashioned plan of giving a heavy dressing of 
solid manure has been followed, do nob rake all off into the alleys, but 
fork it over and clear away all hard rubbish, leaving the rest in a neat 
state. When the surface of the beds is bared down to near the crowns 
the shoots are liable to be killed by spring frosts, and in any case the 
mulching gives a desirable length of blanched stalk, and also serves to 
keep the beds moist during a dry summer. Unfortunately, heavy 
autumnal dressings of manure do harm in most cases where the soil 
is of a heavy clayey nature, as also does salt on a similar compost. 
Though applied now at the rate of from 2 ozs. to 3 ozs. per square yard 
it acts beneficially on lighter soils both as a manure for the Asparagus 
and a destroyer of weeds. Where the crowns are very close to the 
surface, now is a good time to give a liberal top-dressing of fresh loamy 
soil and well-decayed manure. 
Protecting Asparagus. — There is such a scarcity of fresh 
vegetables that early Asparagus will be even more acceptable than 
usual. It is the narrow raised beds that should give the first cuttings, 
and if well bared to the sunshine growth might be expedited consider¬ 
ably, but this is a far too risky proceeding, as many shoots are crippled 
either before or just as they are coming through the surface by severe 
spring frosts. A light mulching of strawy litter is of the greatest 
service in protecting early Asparagus, and it pays well to remove this 
from the beds every morning, and return it in the evening. 
Planting and Sowing Asparagus. —The best time to plant 
Asparagus is when the first shoots are 3 inches or more in length, and 
those who raise their own plants have, therefore, the advantage. When 
they have to be bought they ought to be sent for before this growth has 
been made, or otherwise the chances are the young shoots will be broken 
and the new root fibres dried up. They need not be planted directly 
they arrive, but may be spread out on the surface of a warm border and 
covered with 2 inches or rather less of fine light soil, transplanting to 
the beds after top and root growth has well commenced. If not already 
done the beds ought to be prepared for either planting or sowing at 
once, sowing seeds where the plants are to remain answering well. 
Where forcing is resorted to an old bed is usually broken up and a new 
one formed every season. For an early supply form beds 3 feet wide, 
these to hold either one or two rows of plants. For the main crop the 
bads may be from 4 feet to 5 feet in width, for three rows of plants dis¬ 
pose from 15 inches to 18 inches apart in each and every case. If seeds 
are sown now dispose them thinly in shallow drills, and thin out in due 
course. There is no particular art in growing Asparagus. Where the 
site is naturally well drained and the subsoil of a gravelly nature all 
that is needed is a good depth, or say from 12 inches to 18 inches of 
good soil on this. When beds are formed mark out the site, which 
should be well drained, allowing alleys 2 feet wide between. Throw out 
the good surface soil and break up the subsoil. If the latter is very 
clayey remove a good portion of this, substituting any free working soil, 
coarse mortar rubbish, and strawy manure for this. If not very clayey 
be content to add mortar rubbish, half-decayed manure, and decaying 
garden refuse. The top soil to be returned to its original position, and 
will be improved by the addition of fine mortar rubbish, leaf soil, well 
decayed manure, and such like. 
Rhubarb. —Just when the crowns are bursting into loaf is a good 
time to divide and replant Rhubarb. It is the younger clumps that usually 
produce the finest and most succulent stalks, and some replanting should 
be done every season. Divisions with one to three crowns attached 
may be detached from old clumps with the aid of a spade. Replant 
these in deeply dug, heavily manured ground 3 feet apart each way, and 
do not pull from them this sea?on. Bare the surface roots of old clumps, 
manure heavily, and return the soil to the top. 
