ipril4,189'. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
289 
to cross two varieties each of which shows prominently the same 
defect, for fear that the resulting seedlings may exhibit the defect 
in a more marked degree than their parents, and I think that seed 
should not be obtained from varieties dull and undecided in colour, 
flimsy of petal, or impure in any way. It is very important that 
roses should be crossed only with roses, bybloemens with bybicemens, 
and bizarres with bizarres, and it is well to divide the bizirres, and 
to cross reds with reds, and darks with darks. I think it is wise 
also to consider the relationship of the varieties it is proposed to 
cross-fertilise, and to choose for the purpose those that have been 
raised by different growers, as I feel sure a stronger progeny is the 
more likely result if near relationships are avoided. Perhaps a 
few instances will make my meaning clearer. I should not cross 
Dr. Hardy (Storer) with Orion (Storer) because, although two 
good red bizarres, they are probably raised from the same pod of 
seed, and therefore too nearly related ; I would not use Talisman 
(Hardy) and Maid of Orleans (Gibbons) because, although from 
different raisers, they both exhibit the fault of being rather long 
cupped. I should reject Goldfinder (Hepworth) because, although 
a brilliant breeder, it invariably breaks badly; Lord Lilford 
because, although of good form and a handsome feather, it is 
scarcely ever pure, and Lord Derby (Clegg) because, although 
handsome in colour and excellent in shape, it has flimsy petals and 
never breaks well. 
Improvements in colour should be an important object with 
the raiser, and he should endeavour to get the roses more scarlet, 
the bybloemens blacker or more deep violet, the dark bizarres 
blacker, and the red bizarres more orange-scarlet in their marking 
colours than has hitherto been obtained, whilst his aim for the 
ground colour should be a dazzling opaque white for the roses and 
bybloemens, and clear brilliant yellows for the bizarres, which may 
vary from a lemon to orange colour in shade. In the following list 
of suitable crosses I have had regard to the ideas I possess on this 
subject, and it may be found useful. 
Moses. 
Rose Hill X Annie McGregor Annie McGregor x Circe 
Rose Hill X Modesty Mabel X Rose Hill 
Mary Jackson X Annie McGregor Rose Hill x Mrs. Lea 
Bybicemens, 
Talisman x King of the Universe 
Queen of the May X King of the 
Universe 
Talisman X Queen of the May 
Chancdlor x Salvator Rosa 
Elizabeth Pegg X King of the 
Universe 
Elizabeth Pegg X Talisman 
Queen of the May X Adonis 
Bessie X Elizabeth Pegg 
Baric. 
Bizarres, 
Med. 
Sir Joseph Paxton X Wm. Lea. 
Masterpiece X Lord Stanley 
Sir Joseph Paxton X Polyphemus 
William Wilson x Lord Stanley 
Dr. Hardy X Sulphur 
Dr. Hardy X Lord Fredk. Cavendish 
Dr. Hutcheon x William Annibal 
Dr. Hardy x General Grant 
Some of my readers may smile at tbe idea of bringing back old 
Polyphemus at this lime of day, but I do so in order to get if pos¬ 
sible his clear lemon and black, which combination is not at all 
common in our modern flowers. 
The flowers destined to bear the seed pods should be selected 
before they open, and immediately they do the anthers entirely 
removed. At this stage the pollen, not being yet ripe, will be 
invisible on the anthers. The flower should then be lightly filled 
with cotton wool, to prevent chance impregnation by the wind or 
by bees, and supported by a stick and lead wire. Every fine day the 
cotton wool should be removed, and the stigma carefully examined ; 
when ready to receive the pollen it will be found covered with a 
slight viscous exudation, and probably a tiny opening in its centre 
be observable. An anther covered with ripe pollen should now be 
extracted from the flower decided on as the pollen parent, and 
with it the surface of the stigma gently rubbed until it is plenti¬ 
fully covered with the pollen, and the cotton wool immediately 
replaced. If the pollen has taken effect the stigma will in a few 
hours have assumed a rosy hue, and have a velvety rather than 
viscous appearance. 
It is important that healthy pollen be used, and only those 
anthers which are plentifully loaded and are good in siza and shape 
should be selected. It is a good sign if they move about easily on the 
point or pivot of the filament, as unhealthy anthers are commonly 
unable to do this, and have a shrivelled appearance. The petals 
soon fall and the seed pod begins to swell, and sun and air are very 
essential at this time ; but rain or drip should be kept from the 
growing pod, which is very liable to decay if wet lodges in the 
corrugated stigma, particularly in damp and ungenial weather. 
Tne pods are ready for gathering when they lose their green 
fleshy look, and show the seeds like ribs through their wasted 
sides. It is most important to thoroughly dry the pods imme¬ 
diately after catting. A good plan is, after tying an identifying 
label to each, to hang them up in a warm, dry room for at least 
a fortnight. I have known the seed killed in several fine pods 
of my own growing through not attaching sufficient importance to 
drying. 
If any mischief is feared from damp, or if any symptoms of 
mould or mustiness appear about a pod at any time after it has 
done growing, it is best to open it and turn out the seeds to dry 
separately, when some may be saved ; but it is wonderful how 
quickly a very slight dampness will destroy the germ of life in 
every seed in a pod. When perfectly dry the pod is opened, and 
the seeds, which are flat and of a light brown colour, easily fall out. 
If they are good the germ is easily seen near that portion of the 
seed that has been nearest the stem. A fine pod will often contain 
as many as 200 perfect seeds. The seeds can be stored away in a 
dry place in envelopes having the particulars of their parentage 
written on them until the time for sowing arrives. 
DOUBLE VIOLETS. 
It is questionable if any flowers give more pleasure at any 
time during the year than double Violets do in the winter. When 
we consider that Violets can be had with small cost and labour 
for over six of the dullest months of the year, it seems strange 
that they are not even more generally cultivated. Double Violets 
may well be termed amateurs’ flowers, as no artificial heat is 
required at any time during their existence. All that is needed in 
the way of protection is complete immunity from frost. This 
can easily be obtained by the aid of an ordinary two-light garden 
frame, a sufficient amount of long strawy manure or dry leaves to 
protect the sides of the frame, and an adequate covering of ordinary 
garden mats for the glass. 
The month of April is the right time to prepare the plants for 
flowering next season. For affording an uninterrupted succession of 
bloom some persons grow half a dozen varieties. I grow but one, 
and am well content with it. The best double Violet is, in my 
opinion, Marie Louise. The colour is described as rich mauve 
lavender blue, with a white eye. De Parme is also an excellent 
variety, free and hardy ; the colour pale lavender purple, also with, 
a white eye. Neapolitan, lavender, white eye, is appreciated by 
some, but is too “ flimsy ” in its blooms, and its flowering season 
too short to be worthy of more than ordinary attention. Comte de 
Brazza, pure white, although flowering abundantly in the spring, 
does not excite much attention, owing to its shyness during the 
dull winter months. Lady Hume Campbell has somewhat darker 
flowers than De Parme, though not so rich as Marie Louise ; where 
variety is approved this is worthy a place. Madame Millett, rosy 
lilac, is most distinct, being very double, fragrant, and free. This 
Violet succeeds well in pots, which is a good recommendation. 
Messrs. Beachey, the well-known Devonshire Violet growers, had 
well flowered plants in pots of it at the Torquay Chrysanthemum 
show last November. Another striking variety exhibited by the 
same firm was Duchess of Edinburgh. The flowers are large, 
rosette shaped, and not so pale in colour as Neapolitan. 
A salient point in Violet culture is thoroughly prepared plants ; 
without these it is not possible to have even a fair crop of flowers. 
It is not desirable that the plants should make a superabundance 
of foliage at any period of their growth. Those with a fair number 
of leaves and well-developed crowns are most sought after by 
experienced cultivators. These are the result of planting thinly 
and restricting the growth to the main stems by the prompt 
removal of runners or side shoots, as then the energy of the plant 
is concentrated in the crown of each. Our plants are grown on an 
east border. The soil being heapy loaf mould, not too advanced in 
decay, leaves are added freely. In heavy soil roots are not made 
in sufficient numbers to enable the plants to grow large enough to 
give the best returns. Plants now flowering will by the end of the 
month be ready for division ; the strongest grown roots may be 
pulled in pieces of one crown each, weaker roots may have two or 
three crowns together. The runners growing from the base of the 
old roots make excellent plants, and are preferable, but they cannot 
always be had in sufficient numbers. The plants are put out 
10 inches apart in rows 1 foot asunder. 
Keep the soil between the rows well stirred. Should the 
weather be hot and dry mulch the surface with decayed leaves to 
prevent the evaporation of moisture and minimi.-e the necessity of 
watering. Long spells of drought bring a crop of red spider to the 
leaves, and this checks the growth, and may ruin the plants. 
Copious supplies of water at the roots, and frequent syiingings with 
soapy water, are the best means of checking tbe spread of the 
de-.truc^ive pest,—E Molyneux. 
