April 4, l!:95. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
301 
Tying-in the Growths. —Attend to this early, as it is necessary to 
give the growths the desired inclination, which must be done carefully 
80 as not to bring the shoots down too sharply, for this may snap off the 
points or give an undesirable conformation by throttling them. This 
must be avoided by the exercise of judgment, and in securing the shoots 
to the trellis sufficient space must be left in the ligatures for the swelling 
of the growths, otherwise gumming may be induced, as well as the 
contraction of the growth and consequent danger of breakage. 
Trees Started Early in March. —Trees in full blossom ought not to 
be syringed ; indeed, it should not be practised after the anthers show 
clear of the corolla, but a genial condition of the atmosphere be secured 
by damping the floor and border in the morning and early afternoon on 
bright days, omitting it altogether in dull, cold moist weather. The 
night temperature should be 60°, falling 5° in cold weather ; 60° to 
66° by day, with a rather free circulation of air ; and 65° from sun 
heat, with full ventilation, preventing a vitiated atmosphere by admitting 
a little air constantly by the top ventilators. 
Latest Bouses. —With the flowers opening and abundant thin them 
well on the under side of the shoots. Assist fertilisation by shaking the 
trees daily from the first pollen ripening until the last of the blossoms 
need attention, selecting the early part of fine days when artificial 
impregnation is resorted to, which is desirably effected by means of a 
cameTs-bair brush, feather, or some other light substance. Any trees 
deficient in pollen, as the large-flowered varieties sometimes are, should 
have some taken from those that afford it abundantly, and this applied 
carefully to the stigmas will usually afford good results. Maintain a 
temperature of 40° to 45° at night, 50° to 55° by day, in all cases accom¬ 
panied by slight ventilation at the top of the house, which must be 
increased when the temperature reaches 50°, and be full at 65°. 
Unheated Houses. —The buds of fruit trees in these are fast expand¬ 
ing, yet the house should be kept as cool as possible by free air 
circulation. Ventilate when the flowers expand at 50°, and increase it 
with the advancing temperature, not allowing an advance above 65° 
without full ventilation top and bottom, and close the house at 65° when 
there is danger of a severe frosty night, but leave on a little air to allow 
of moisture escaping, not closing entirely until the actual prevalence 
externally of frost. In mild weather leave the ventilators open when 
the temperature is over 50°. Where there is an abundance of blossom 
buds thin them carefully, removing those on the under side of the 
growths. 
Fig’S. — Earliest Forced Trees in Pots. —The fruits of Early Violet 
and St. John’s ripen on trees started in November or early in December 
during April, or under hard forcing in March, and, though poor in 
size and quality as compared with the luscious Brown Turkey and 
White Marseilles, are desirable for early dishes. Where ripening com¬ 
mences gradually reduce the atmospheric moisture, and admit air con¬ 
stantly by the top ventilators, as a circulation of rather warmer and 
drier air is necessary for securing flavour and thorough ripening. When 
the fruit of the larger varieties commences ripening the supply of water 
at the roots should be gradually reduced, yet affording sufficient to keep 
the foliage healthy, withholding it from the fruit and ventilating freely. 
Early Forced Planted-out Trees. —Fig trees always do best when 
somewhat restricted at the roots, and surface fibres encouraged and kept 
active by judicious top-dressings of rich material. Good turfy loam, 
horse droppings, and old mortar rubbish in equal parts, favour an 
abundant formation of fibres, and these obtained feeding is an easy matter. 
To insure uniform moisture a light mulching of decayed manure serves 
that end and is a source of nourishment, this being added to from lime to 
time so as to keep about an inch thickness. Liberal supplies of water 
or liquid manure will be necessary to assist in swelling the fruits satis¬ 
factorily. Continue to pinch out the points of the shoots for forming 
spurs, and thin all crowded growths, or preferably prevent these by 
timely disbudding. Fig trees cannot have too much light, the growths 
being fully exposed to the sun. The temperature may now be increased 
to 60° to 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day with gleams of sun, and 80° to 
85° or 90° under a cloudless sky. Attend to tying in the extensions and 
Buccessional growths, allowing space for the shoots thickening. 
Raising Young Trees. —If it be desired to increase the stock, cuttings 
may be inserted, selecting well ripened shoots of about 6 inches length, 
taking them off with a heel or portion of last year’s wood attached. 
They root readily in bottom heat, and are best potted in 3-inch pots. 
When rooted shift without much delay into 6-inch pots, and when they 
fill the pots with roots transfer to pots a couple of inches larger, but 
avoid overpotting. Good drainage is necessary, firm potting essential, 
and turfy loam, with a sixth of old mortar rubbish and a fifth of 
thoroughly decayed manure, forms a suitable compost. 
Cucumbers. —These plants come more to grief than any other, in 
consequence of the forcing nature of the treatment, the thing being to 
get as much bulk of the most tempting colour in the least time as 
practicable. Nitrogen and a close moist and high atmosphere secure 
these desiderata at least expense, but there are more failures under such 
rdgime than a more rational procedure. Plants that have been in 
bearing all the winter are certainly benefited by nitrogenic substances, 
which, to be of profit, must be accompanied by a corresponding root 
action, and there is nothing so favourable thereto as fresh, sweet, rich 
lumpy compost. The soil, therefore, may be removed with a handfork, 
clearing away as much of the old as practicable without prejudice to the 
roots, and fill with the compost described, rammed down firmly. 
Stopping, training, and cutting out the old growths must be followed 
up, and abundant waterings given as necessary. Assist plants in full 
bearing with liquid manure or top-dressings of chemical manures washed 
in. Earth up the roots occasionally, using warmed compost. Damp the ' 
floors about 8 A M. and 3 P.M., the foliage being lightly syringed on fine 
afternoons. There ought not to be any delay in having the blinds ready 
where that form of shading is adopted, so that they can be employed for 
an hour or two at midday when the sun is brightest, especially after a 
period of dull weather, as then it is most needed, and unless given serious 
consequences may follow. 
melons.—In the earlier houses the fruit has set, or is setting, and 
when the fruits are getting heavy supports must be afforded. Half¬ 
inch boards 6 or 7 inches square, with a hole through each corner, and 
suspended by four pieces of string or wire from the trellis in a slanting 
direction to prevent water lodging, may be used for the purpose. 
Remove superfluous fruits and all flowers from such plants, also 
unrequired growths, stopping and tying as necessary. Afford efficient 
supplies of water, giving top-dressings of nourishing food or liquid 
manure, maintaining a free but not luxuriant growth. Maintain a good 
atmospheric moisture by damping early in the morning and afternoon, 
syringing the plants lightly on bright afternoons about 3 P.M, Late 
plants showing fruit should, unless abundant and the plant vigorous, 
have the first blossoms removed, it being important that the pistillate 
flowers be nearly of one stage of growth. Secure a somewhat higher 
temperature and drier atmosphere during the setting, only affording as 
much moisture at the roots as will prevent flagging. Fertilise the 
blossoms when fully expanded, stopping the shoots one joint beyond the 
fruit, but otherwise employ the knife as little as possible during the 
setting period. In pits and frames a good bottom heat must be 
maintained, and night coverings employed to retain the requisite 
temperature. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Antirrhinums. —The dwarf white, yellow, and crimson forms 
promise to become very popular as bedding plants. They thrive 
and flower grandly during a dry hot summer, and are quite as effective 
in a wet season. The best plants are those that have been raised from 
cuttings in the autumn. They must not be left standing thickly 
together in rough frames and hand-lights, but should be given more room 
at once. Bed them out temporarily in fairly good soil and about 
4 inches apart each way, when they will be ready for planting by the 
middle of May. They are grand in masses, and cutting their first strong 
flower spikes benefits them considerably. Any old plants that have 
survived the winter should be taken good care of, as they will give an 
early display. 
Early Flowering: Cbrysanthemums. —There are a considerable 
number of summer and autumn flowering Chrysanthemums which are 
very effective either in masses or mixed borders. Those who left the 
whole of their stock in the open ground will most probably have to start 
afresh. If, however, some of the old plants are still alive these might 
well be lifted and placed in a cold frame with a view to earlier and 
better cuttings than can often be had from unprotected plants. These 
late cuttings should be placed thinly in boxes of fine sandy soil, and 
given the benefit of gentle heat and shade as required, pinching out 
the tops as soon as rooted. After they have formed fresh growths 
harden and plant out in good soil where they are to flower. For 
planting in beds in succession to Asters, Poppies, Campanulas or other 
plants that cease to be gay soon after July, the preference may well be 
given to Madame Desgrange, white. Lady Fitzwygram, an improve¬ 
ment on the latter, and Mrs, Hawkins, yellow. There must be no late 
stopping of these, and strong branching plants in 8-inch pots should be 
ready for the beds directly they are cleared of their other occupants. 
Fuchsias. —Old plants of these in pots and tubs have kept better 
in cellars than in outhouses, and all that are alive ought now to be 
growing afresh. If they are to flower in the open it is a mistake to start 
them under glass, as this is liable to unduly forward them. The young 
wood must first be shortened back, preferably with pruning scissors, to 
within one or two joints of where they last started, leaders perhaps 
having a greater length reserved. If the tops are dead cut them down 
to where they are alive. When the plants are breaking afresh is the 
time to repot or retub. Carefully turn out, freely reduce or pick away 
much of the old soil from the roots, and shorten the latter somewhat, 
replacing in pots or tubs of much the same size as before. They will 
then have abundance of a rather rich loamy compost, with a sprinkling 
of bonemeal in the soil, in which to root. Keep the plants in a sunny 
sheltered place, and water sparingly at first. Stop the young shoots if 
taking the lead unduly, or if more growths are required to form a 
presentable bush. 
Isolepls gracilis. —Single plants of this elegant Grass are frequently 
used, and sometimes whole patches, with good effect in summer 
bedding arrangements. It is small fresh plants that should be used. 
Roughly shorten some of the latter, divide into small pieces, each with 
a few roots attached, and place these in threes just clear of each other 
in 2J-inch pots. Kept in heat till well established, neat little plants 
will be ready for the beds in June, and which will be certain to grow 
freely all the summer. 
Cyperus natalensls.— This succeeds admirably as a bedding 
plant, and is effective clotted among trailing flowering plants, or even 
with taller-growing tuberous Begonias. Single plants are not nearly 
so graceful as small patches, and instead, therefore, of pricking out the 
small seedlings that come up so quickly and abundantly in heat singly 
in small pots, lift and repot in patches of not less than three plants. 
They soon fill the pots with roots, and may be given a small shift so as 
to have good sized plants for bedding out early in June. 
Dwarf Nasturtiums.— Dwarf or Tom Thumb Nasturtiums, pro¬ 
perly managed, are even more gorgeous than Pelargoniums in a dry 
