308 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
April 11, 1895. 
when planted in peat and sphagnum, either in a basket or on a raft. 
The preference for rocks is a peculiarity of another handsome 
winter-flowering Orchid—namely, Epidendrum bicornutum—which 
forms thick masses on exposed rocks near the sea in the island of 
Trinidad. It also thrives in peat and sphagnum in baskets, 
requiring excessive heat and moisture while making new gro ith. 
Repotting Orchids. 
This is a work that requires a great amount of care and judg¬ 
ment, as future success depends to a great extent on the manner 
in which this important operation is carried out. There is such a 
wonderful variety in this family that no general lines can be laid 
down for compost, time, or manner of repotting. Take the larger 
fleshy roots of Vanda or Saccolabium, for instance, and compare 
them with the small interlacing or twining roots of many species 
of Denbrobium and Oncidium. To place these in similar composts, 
or in the same sized pots relatively, would be so obviously wrong 
that even a novice in Orchid-growing would hardly be guilty 
of it. On the other hand, many growers with a certain amount 
of experience will not give the consideration that is essential to 
the less varying types and their requirements. 
Take the example of perhaps the two best known types of 
Orchids in existence as serving the purpose of illustration best— 
viz., Odontoglossum crispum and Dendrobium nobile. The former 
of these, as pointed out by Mr. Bardney in his very practical 
article on page 179, are shallow or ourface rooters. These do not 
need a large pot or a great thickness of compost, for if provided 
the roots could never take to it, and the moisture-holding medium 
about the pseudo-bulbs will be a fruitful source of decay both 
summer and winter. D. nobile, cn the contrary, seems to delight 
in pushing strong roots in all directions, which, if not checked or 
broken off, frequently grow to a length of a foot or 18 inches. 
This may be seen on any plant of this species growing in a warm, 
moist house that may happen to have young shoots at or near the 
top of the stems. Here, then, is a clear case for a larger, deeper 
pot in comparison with the size of the plant, and a compost con¬ 
sisting of large, rough lumps of charcoal or crocks mixed with the 
material used for its sustenance. The larger growing Cattleyas, 
and Lmlias too, like this rough, open rooting medium, and although 
the majority of the roots are usually nearer the surface than is the 
case with the Dendrobium mentioned a fairly wide root run will 
be found to answer best for them. 
Intermediate between the types of root mentioned are those 
that, being small, yet take a very firm hold and grow more or less 
closely matted. These would include the majority of the deciduous 
section of Dendrobiums, many Oncidiums, Epidendrums, and 
Miltonias that like a rather closer and firmer root run, and pots not 
much larger than is necessary to take the plants easily. Among 
the terrestrial species so called the same variations will be found, 
and the grower who pots a Oypripedium or Cymbidium on similar 
lines to a Thunia or Oalauthe has yet something to learn of the 
details of Orchid culture. Phalsenopsis amabilis and Aerides 
odorata both like sphagnum moss about their roots, yet who would 
think of treating them to it in similar bulk '? The roots of the 
first named would be killed if buried at a depth at which the strong 
and vigorous roots of the Aerides will thrive. 
The materials required for potting the various species has been 
so frequently alluded to in these pages that it is hardly neces?a’'y 
to repeat them here ; but with regard to the manner of potting 
a few words may not be out of place. The distichous-leaved 
section are easily fixed in position, that is when the roots are 
abundant ; more than ordinary care is, however, necessary to avoid 
snapping these, which cannot be bent very much any way. It is 
unwise to disturb these plants at all unless the temperature 
can be well kept up afterwards, it being far better to wait even 
until they are well on the move than to run the risk of checking 
them—a serious matter with these large fleshy roots. Should not 
these be abundant enough to fix the plants, a strong stake ought 
to be placed to each, or small plants may be firmly wired to rough 
block-!, and then inserted in the pots or baskets and surrounded 
with sphagnum. All the stem roots that can be brought down to 
the surface may be covered with moss, as this strengthens the 
plants and encourages the emission of more roots in the atmosphere. 
The pseudo-bulbous division of epiphytal Orchids, as repre¬ 
sented by Oncidiums, Cattleyas, and others, require considerable 
care in repotting. Ic may almost be taken as an axiom that the 
larger rooted the plant is, the larger pot or basket will be required, 
also the rougher the compost, and vice versa, the exception to 
this rule being noted from time to time in these pages. Those 
that are compact in growth, as Oncidium tigrinum and Miltonia 
vexillaria, are easily fixed in position by elevating the plants as 
required, and bedding the compost firmly around them, finishing 
by trimming off the ragged ends to a neat cone. With Cattleyas, 
Oncidiums flexuosum or m crauthum, and others that produce 
leading growths at varying heights more judgment is required, and 
the plants must be manipulated so that as many of these as 
possible are brought into contact with the compost without bury¬ 
ing the eyes. 
The plants must be staked or tied into as neat a shape as‘ 
possible, and the leads disposed as equally as may be, or a straggling 
ill - balanced specimen will result. Cypripediums, Calanthes, 
Thunias, and certain species of Phaius, Peristeria, and many other 
Orchids requiring loam in the compost, are the simplest of all with 
regard to repotting, and as the surface of the compost is usually 
kept rather below the rims of the pots no more difficulty will be 
experienced in fixing the plants in position than in the case with an 
ordinary greenhouse plant of any kind. 
There are three cardinal rules to be observed in repotting 
Orchids of any description. 1, Piovide drainage that cannot possibly 
become choked, but will always be free and open, so that when 
the water is given it permeates the whole compost, and quickly 
passes away. 2, Remove all decaying roots and sour portions of the 
compost that it is possible to get at without unduly disturbing the 
sound ones, and (3) fix the plants in position, so that they cannot 
possibly rock when moved about for cleaning or examination.— 
H. R. R. 
PROFITABLE CUCUMBER CULTURE. 
Many private gardeners, myself included, when commencing 
Cucumber growing for market, as a rule soon find out they have 
much to learn. This experience has to be paid for. From six 
to a dozen plants grown with the aid of bottom heat, consisting 
not unfrequently of both hot-water pipes and hotbed material, 
may succeed for a time, and those responsible may have good 
reason to be proud of their achievements. When, however, it 
comes to growing plants by the hundred, and cropping heavily, 
the case is very different. Hotbeds from 100 to 200 feet in 
length on each side of a house or range of houses are simply 
out of the question, and some growers even dispense with 
bottom heat altogether, though not, I believe, before February or 
March, these being the months when most plants are put out. 
Cucumbers are not always successfully grown in private gardens. 
The plants may keep in a fairly healthy state, and produce enough 
fruit and to spare, but if much strain is put on them they collapse, 
while many of the Cucumbers are of poor form, and not good to 
eat. Market growers must have heavy crops in various stages of 
growth from the time their plants are large enough to bear 
till they are cleared out ; added to this, the fruit must be of good 
form and colour, as it does not pay if “seconds” predominate. 
For the former 33. per dozen can be obtained during the greater part 
of the season, but second rate fruits only fetch about Is. fid. 
What is known as the extension system—three or four plants 
filling a moderately large house, is not favoured by market growers. 
They cannot afford to run the risk of having large blank spaces 
through a plant failing. A distance of about 2 feet apart is more 
than some allow, but it is doubtful if anything is gained by 
excessive crowding. Then, again, bottom heat pipes may be 
dispensed with, especially if the start is delayed till March and the 
natural soil is not of a heavy clayey nature. Where the latter 
prevails it pays to have a bottom heat pipe immediately under 
where the plants are to go, and to also form a chamber over the 
pipes with a view to distributing this bottom heat, and also to 
keeping the roots from reaching the clay. Failing to keep the 
roots out of a cold soil has been the cause of failure in more than 
one attempt to grow Cucumbers. 
iSTot only do Cucumbers collapse completely on a very bright 
day when the roots are in a cold rooting medium, but the same 
thing occurs when they have either too much over-rich soil or have 
free access to a mass of decayed manure. The roots require ample 
air, heat, and moisture, and if we exclude any one of these failure 
soon results. A great heap or ridge of soil ought never to be seen 
in connection with Cucumber culture, and what is used should be 
constantly overrun by a complete network of roots. This 
necessarily means very close attention on the part of the grower, 
especially with regard to watering. A few hours’ neglect may 
mean the loss of the greater portion of the leaves in a house. The 
whole of the plants may take water twice in one hot day, so 
rapid is the evaporation from the leives. Less than a peck of 
soil suffices for each plant at the outset, and from one to two pecks 
may be given subsequently in the form of top-dressings. The soil 
must be of a loose porous nature, and composed of materials that 
will not sour readily. Seeing that liquid manure will of necessity 
be freely used, well-charred soil or charcoal and old lime rubbish 
should be mixed with loam devoid of fibre; but if good yellow 
fibrous loam can be had, chop that up roughly and only add horse 
droppings to the extent of one part in four. Market growers, if 
' they have the opportunity, stack turf in the autumn grass side 
