310 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
April 11, 1895. 
the beds to a depth of 4 ioches or so is mixed with sand and leaf 
soil. Indeed, whenever a variety is found to be “ miffy ” the same 
treatment may be given it with success. When Carnations in 
abundance and of good quality are required, it is necessary to 
feed, but this is best done by surface dressings. For this purpose 
soot is excellent, and is said to be also effective as a deterrent to 
eel worms. I also employ pigeons’ manure and an occasional dressing 
of chemical manure. 
It is well known that growers for exhibition thin out the buds 
to a limited number ; but for ordinary cutting purposes, thinning 
is not much attempted. This, however, is a mistake ; I thin 
not only the buds, but also the grass, and by these means I 
secure in the end not only as many flowers, but flowers of a 
superior quality. The way to thin is so simple that a very large 
number of plants may be done in an hour. The best stage is when 
the buds are quite small, as they may be drawn out more easily 
then. When the grass is thinned the result is a stronger growth 
in the case of those left, and consequently earlier and better layers. 
Seedlings have wintered without loss. These now require a 
dreasing to strengthen them.— R. P. Brotherston. 
WATER GARDENING. 
Few, perhaps, are called on to embellish by water power their 
sphere of work, and fewer still to do so on the larger scale ; yet 
many may add to the interest already provided by the introduction 
of suitable water plants. Nevertheless, a study of the character¬ 
istics of good examples of water-designing is worthy of regard. 
Should one have to perform only in a minor scale there is greater 
difficulty, if it be in imitating Nature, to avoid tbe puerile ; and 
for the best effects a skilful hand may be required to create 
illusions for the eye—to complete in imagination what is curtailed 
by reality. 
Safety lays in simplicity of design with distinctiveness of 
purpose. On the one hand we have, in the form of fountains and 
ornamental basins, the severely classical harmonising with the 
formal outlines of buildings on geometrical garden designs ; on the 
other, the employment of Art to aid Nature in her freehand 
delineation. Admirable illustrations of either type are frequently 
to be met with, and occasionally some examples “ whose incoherent 
style, like sick men’s dreams, varies all shapes and mixes all 
extremes.” 
Amongst the tender aquatic plants Ouvirandra fenestralis, the 
Lattice Leaf of Madagascar, takes a prominent position, for apart 
from its unique character the successful cultivation of this somewhat 
“ miffy” plant amounts to a triumph of skill. Probably the quality 
of the water contributes largely to results, for where confervoid 
growth attaches to the leaves it is inimical to health. Where this 
occurs sponging the leaves is sometimes resorted to, a remedy which 
in careless hands is as bad as the disease. Prevention by using 
suitable water is infinitely preferable to attempting a cure. The 
Ouvirandra is well worthy of a glass receptacle placed on the stage 
in a shady corner of the plant stove, thus displaying its beauty to 
advantage. 
Amongst the lesser kinds suitable to a warm or temperate 
house are Limnocharis Humboldi, Pontedera crassipes and other 
varieties, Pistia stratiotes, and the curious Clover-leaved Marsilea, 
the Nardoo plant of Australia ; whilst the larger - growing 
Nelumbiam, the sacred Lotus, with Nymphteas Devoniensis, coerulea, 
and rubra, are beautiful additions, if not precluded from want of 
space. One need not mention in the same list that imperial plant 
the Victoria regia, for unfortunately all but a privileged few must 
worship it afar off. Doubtless there are yet many interesting 
plants in the tropical waters of other lands waiting for the 
collector’s hand to introduce them to our notice, as one feels that 
this section is at the present somewhat limited. Yet it is a question 
of demand, and the utilitarian question of space and other con¬ 
siderations of an aquatic house proper is prejudicial to their 
introduction. 
Not so with the hardy aquatics, and in the open. Here the 
fair bosom of many an ornamental lake is waiting to be decked with 
the soft garniture of our charming Water Lilies. Obviously for 
this work we shall first consider the Lilies, for they are inimitable. 
If space is limited beware of that yellow-buttoned vagabond 
Nupbar lutea, which will insidiously swallow up the whole surface 
oj the water to the detriment of appearance, and of his fair cousin 
Nymphma alba. But few plants, aquatic or otherwise, can 
approach the common white Water Lily in gracefulness of foliage 
or beauty of flower, unless it is M. Marlia’s beautiful hybrids. 
These when better known will take a high place, probably the 
highest in water gardening. 
The pretty pink-bLssomed Polygonum amphibium is a plant to 
he introduced with caution, and should the pond or lake be a bathing 
resort, it is in deep water a veritable death-trap should the swimmer 
get entangled in its wiry stems. It is also of a weedy, aggressive 
nature. In water not exceeding 2 feet in depth, the common 
Arum Lily, Richardia sethiopica, will succeed. This may not be 
generally known, but I have experience of some plants thus 
growing for ten years, and on some occasions being frozen in a 
solid block of ice without injury. A group by the lake side or 
“ river’s brim ” should be tried, as even under pot culture its habit 
and form of foliage commend it to aquatic treatment. 
For marginal planting we have many bright or interesting 
plants adapted for this position. Some are coarse and some are 
common, but if not overcrowded, and kept within reasonable 
bounds, what might be a drawback in the higher society of plant 
life is an advantage here. Overcrowding is, in all cases, to be 
avoided, but rigorously so in water gardening. Planting, here, is 
rather to serve as a garnish to the dish than to form the piece cle 
resistance. 
Butomus umbellatus, the Flowering Rush, is pretty in its dull 
mauve umbels of blossom ; Equisetums fluviatilis and Drummondi, 
the Horse-tails, are distinctive in character, and suitable where 
space permits, as the Equisetums have a trick of tunnelling and 
sending up their plumes in unexpected places. That ubiquitous 
plant. Iris pseud-acorus, is too well known to receive more than a 
passing glance, unless it is for the purpose of apologising by deputy 
for its commonness. Yet, scamp as it is, lounging in every ditch, 
pond, or watercourse, and existing on sufferance out of its element, 
it will if it meets with something stronger than water, in the way 
of sewage or decomposing matter, fairly revel in—what is to it— 
the good things of this life. A bundle of the rich green sword- 
blades 7 feet high is very attractive. Add to this the summer crop 
of canary yellow Orchid-like blossoms, it is needless to apologise 
further for it ; beyond that, its powers of absorption in polluted 
water may possibly be of hygienic value. 
In sheltered situations, and where privacy insures safety, 
Aponogeton distachyon, the Water Hawthorn, might occupy some 
pool, and various Sarracenias flourish in the sphagnum cushions of 
a streamlet. 
The subject is one which in practice entails but little labour, 
affords much interest, and is one of those phases of work—if work 
it can be called—a little aside of the ordinary routine. The 
exercise is recreative, the influences are soothing ; being such, they 
may be, though infinitesimal, a foretaste of the purer pleasures of 
“ the still waters and green pastures ” beyond.—E. K , Dublin. 
VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION. 
{Concluded from, page 232.) 
Onions. 
Onions for exhibition require a long season of growth, and should be 
sown in boxes about the first week in February in a temperature of 
from 50° to 55°. When the seedlings have reached the height of inch 
they may be transplanted into other boxes 2 inches apart, and grown 
in the same temperature till they are about 6 inches high, when they 
should be hardened in cold frames ready for planting in the open 
about the middle of April. The ground should be thoroughly trenched 
in the autumn, and heavily manured, placing the manure at the bottom 
of the trench and between the top spits. In the early spring soot and 
salt should be sown over the ground to wash in by the rain. Then about 
a month before planting the ground must be forked over and a little 
more soot scattered over it. When ready for planting give a good 
dressing of wood ashes, then with a trowel transplant the Onions 10 inches 
apart and 18 inches from row to row. If the weather is dry much water 
will be required, and, as soon as they are thoroughly established, a little 
soot, nitrate of soda, or liquid manure not too strong should be given at 
intervals of ten days. 
It is an excellent plan throughout May and June to syringe the 
plants with a solution of 3 ozs. of softsoap and a wineglassful of petroleum 
added to 3 gallons of water. This seems distasteful to the Onion fly, 
and prevents it from lighting on the blades and depositing its eggs. 
Top-dressing the ground with well-decayed manure is of much import¬ 
ance, and should always be done if the soil is light and likely to dry out 
in hot seasons. As regards varieties, the globe-shaped sorts seem to find 
most favour. Ailsa Craig and Excelsior are two of the best, while 
Rousham Park Hero and Suttons’ A1 are excellent flat varieties. 
Celery and Leeks. 
The seed of Celery should be sown very thinly in boxes in heat about 
the first week in March. After the young plants are fit to handle they 
should be pricked off into a frame, which has been prepared by putting 
3 inches of cow manure on a hard surface of ashes, then 2 inches of soil 
on the top. In this the young plants will grow freely, and lift with 
good balls with a trowel. It is most important that the young plants 
should not receive the slightest check by becoming dry at the root or 
by being crowded, or they are sure to throw up seed stems, which render 
all the care and cultivation useless. About the beginning of May the 
trenches should be prepared, 18 inches deep and 18 in width, and filled 
