318 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
Apr'l 11 1395. 
Aruncus, Bocconia cordata, Ilarpalium rigidum, Delphiniuma in variety, 
Helianthua multiflorus and ita double variety, Lilium pardalinum, 
Campanula pyramidalia, and Kniphofia Uvaria. The taller growing 
Aatera, such as Novae-Anglise and Purity, blue and white Lupins, 
Pyrethrum uliginosum, Papaver orientale, Thalictrum flavum, Lythrum 
Salicaria roseum, Spiirna palmata. Fuchsia coccinea, F. Kiccartoni, and 
Foxglores. 
Suitable plants for the second row will be found in Aster longifoliua, 
A. amellus, A. a. bessarabicus, the two latter are amongst the most useful 
of Asters ; Dicentra spectabilis. Campanula persicifolia, blue and white 
forms, C. grandis, C. glomerata. Anemone japonica, and its white 
variety Honorine Jobert, Agrostemma Flos Jovis, Achillea Ptarmica 
fl.-pl., Eryngium amethystinum, Galega officinalis. The latter is a capital 
plant for cutting, especially the white form, as it lasts such a long time 
in the cut state if the old blooms are picked off and the water changed 
every few days. Hemerocallis flava, H. fulva. Lychnis chalcedonica, 
L. Haageana, Monarda didyma, M. purpurea, Malva moschata, M. m. 
alba, Thalictrum adiantifolium. Ranunculus aconitifoUus, Pyrethrum 
lacustre, Papaver orientale, Funkia ovata, Gypsophila paniculata, 
Fritillaria imperialis. Phlox and Paeonies of sorts. Both the early and 
late flowering kinds of Phlox should be grown, as this will prolong the 
show of bloom. The English and Spanish Iris may be used for 
this row, also the following Lilies—L. elegans, L. candidum, L. chal- 
■cedonicum, L. Martagon. 
For the front row, Geum montanum, G. coccineum, Iberis corifolia, 
Funkia lanceolata margina'a, Epimedium alpinum, E. macranthum. 
Dicentra formosa, Doronicum austriacum. Campanula carpatica, 
Adonis vernalis, Alyssum saxatile compacta. Aster alpinus. Anemone 
apennina, A. coronaria of sjrts, Papaver nudicaule, Spirma filipendula 
fl.-pl., Trollius europjeus and varieties (some of these have much 
larger and darker flowers). Plumbago Larpentm, Fritillaria meleagris. 
Auriculas, Pinks, Giant Thrift, Pyrethrum roseum. Hyacinths, 
Narcissi, and Tulips may be a.ssociated with the plants in this row. 
The dwarfer kinds should be planted alternately with those of taller 
growth. 
This list by no means exhausts the number of plants available for a 
border of this kind, but it wdll be found to contain some of the best. 
They will give a variety of colours; their mode of growth is compact, 
and a greater part will be found useful for cutting. There is also a 
number of plants of straggling habit, such as Centaurea montana, 
Potentillas, Geraniums, Mertensia paniculata which it would not do to 
include in the above list; nevertheless, they will be found useful for 
•other positions. Dwarf-growing plants that would soon he overgrown 
on a border of this kind should have one to themselves, or find a place 
in the rock garden. 
To make the border more gay during the summer months all vacant 
places should be filled with annuals or other plants. A good selection 
of the former are Centaurea cyanus minor, Clarkia elegans. Marvel of 
Peru, Perilla nankinensis, African Marigolds, Chrysanthemums of sorts, 
Calliopsis tinctoria, Shirley Poppies, Sweet Sultan, and Zinnias. These 
will grow from 18 inches to nearly 3 feet high. Those growing about 
I foot high are Eschscholtzia, Dianthus, Bartonia aurea. Asters, Godetias, 
Linum grandiflorum. Phlox Drummondi, Mignonette, French Marigolds 
Stocks, and Verbenas. The majority of these being hardy annuals they 
may be sown where they are to flower. 
Another, and a less formal arrangement, may be had by having 
breaks in the border. Instead of planting in unbroken lines, according 
to the height of the plants, large clumps of one kind of such plants as 
Papaver orientale, Galega officinalis. Phlox or Japanese Anemones may 
be planted at intervals along the borders extending the whole width, 
from front to back, unless the border is wider than the above, in which 
case the back line should not be broken. These bold clumps produce 
a fine effect when in bloom. 
When planting a herbaceous border vacant places may be left in the 
back row to be filled during the summer with tall-growing plants and 
creepers. Maize, Hemp, Castor Od plants. Dahlias, Canary Creeper, 
Convolvulus, Sweet Peas, and other plants of this class will be found 
suitable for the purpose. Instead of appropriating the rest of the 
border to herbaceous plants space may be left in front for planting two 
or three rows of summer bedding plants. In this arrangement we have 
a combination of two forms of flower gardening. 
It is advisable to have a reserve border where a number of the most 
useful flowers for cutting may be grown, so th..t the principal borders 
may be kept gay. The present is a good time to renovate the borders, 
and to divide any plants that it may be found necessary to increase. A 
little manure should be spread over the surface and lightly dug in, this 
being done in such a way as not to injure the roots of the plants. 
Strong-rooting kinds, however, and those that quickly spread, may 
have their roots 'cut away at a given distance from the stems without 
injury. This will also prevent them encroaching on their weaker 
neighbours. 
An important point with these plants, and one that is sometimes 
neglected, is to have them properly staked. This should be done in as 
informal a manner as possible, and at the right time. When it is 
delayed until the plants have been broken down by the wind it is 
impossible to make them look well. What should be aimed at is to 
stake them in as natural way as circumstances will allow. Three stakes 
for each plant of a bushy habit will be required, these being fixed in 
such a way as to be out of sight as much as possible when the plant has 
attained its full height.—J. S. Upex, _ 
I THIXK it would be of general interest to rosarians if you published 
reports as to the effects of the late winter on Rose plants ; and as regards 
Teas whether half-standards or dwarfs have stood best. We might then 
be able to form an opinion as to which are the best stocks, not only to 
yield good flowers, but to withstand the arctic winters with which we 
are now favoured. 
In my (walled-in) garden I have lost nearly all my half-standard 
Teas, though they were extra well protected with dried fern all the 
winter ; while the dwarfs on Briar cuttings, which were partially earthed 
up, as well as protected with fern, have taken little harm. 
Of maiden Teas on half-standards nearly three-fourths have been 
killed by frost, notwithstanding each bud having been separately 
protected. 
H.P.’s in the open were so severely cut up by the late spring frost of 
May last that they are, with few exceptions, all destroyed. I should be 
glad to learn the experience of others.— Ernest Wilkins, Hants 
Notes on Roses. 
It is pleasant to find that Roses have not suffered nearly so much 
from the winter as the intensity of the cold had led one to expect. The 
susceptibility of Roses to cold varies considerably, even in the case of 
varieties belonging to the same section. For example, the common 
China is seldom killed down, while even on a w’all Cramoisie Sup^rieure 
has often to be cut back. Aimee Vibert, again, is not nearly so hardy 
as C41ine Forestier, and among Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals there is a 
marked difference. Hybrid Chinas are very hardy, and even more so 
are Alba and Provence Roses, while Moss Roses, again, are rarely frost¬ 
bitten. 
Among climbing Roses F4Iicitd Perpetuee, and Dundee Rambler are 
almost frost-proof. A peculiarity that I have often noticed is that 
two-year-old shoots are more liable to be frosted than growths of the 
past year. I have seen these damaged stems left, but it is a policy that 
cannot be recommended, as they may die during the summer months, 
and in any case do not flower well. My own plan with these is to cut 
them clean out and leave nothing but healthy wood. 
I had a small rosery to plant last autumn. Most of the plants were 
in their places early in November, but more were required than had 
been ordered, and it was quite a month later when the work was 
completed. Without exception, every one of these late-planted Roses 
have been killed to the ground, thus emphasising the benefit of early 
planting. 
“The Book of the Rose” came out about the time we were busy 
finishing the new Rose beds. It was read at once for something new. 
The only striking matter was that referring to manuring, the force of 
which, however, I did not quite see ; in fact the Roses were planted in 
beds of pure turfy loam without any addition whatever ; but after they 
had been tied securely to sticks, a thick coating of fresh horse droppings 
was spread over the whole surface of the ground. The Roses have just 
been pruned ; the top 4 inches of soil has been pointed over and 
the manure buried to that depth, and I am hopeful these means will 
give the plants a good start. 
The new Crimson Rambler as to hardiness has been somewhat dis¬ 
appointing, One plant of 1893 is quite dead, while of several planted 
last November all are much damaged. L’Ideal, again, is not nearly 
so hardy as W. A. Richardson, nor are the Waltham Climbers so hardy 
as Gloire de Dijon. Climbing Victor Verdier appears to be absolutely 
hardy. Cheshunt Hybrid has also come safely through the winter. 
That pretty novelty, Janet’s Pride, is already well budded, and seems 
as hardy as the common Briar, Numbers of Rosa rugosa in different 
positions have all escaped damage, though Madame G. Bruant is slightly 
frost-bitten.—B. 
April Notes. 
It has been frequently stated of late years that it is a mistake to 
suppose that Tea Roses are tender ; as they are, in fact, if grown in the 
open, as hardy as Hybrid Perpetuals. But I confess it was a surprise 
to see this statement repeated in April, 1895, as it has been by Mr. 
Williamson (page 290) on his own and Messrs. Cocker and Prince’s 
authority. The two latter are now no doubt having a good time, for 
standard Teas must be very much in demand, and, indeed, I have been 
unable to advise anyone as to where they are to be procured. I think 
we should like to know how much frost and also how much snow 
Messrs. Cocker had in February before we take it for granted that their 
Teas escaped injury from their own inherent virtue and hardiness. 
The weather in Scotland is often very different to that in England, 
and our great trouble was that we had hardly any snow with the excep¬ 
tional frost. Of the seven Roses named by Mr. Williamson, who, I 
suppose, had abundance of snow, only two are Teas, and i think but 
few of us have had H.P.’s seriously injured. A contemporary, which 
often alludes to the folly of protecting and coddling up such hardy 
plants as Tea Roses, has dropped that subject for the present; and, with 
admirable consistency, has been pointing out to its readers the folly of 
