April 11, 1895. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
323 
4he daytime must be well maintained at 70° to 75° from fire heat, and 
80° to 85° with sun heat. Red spider usually makes its appearance on 
early forced Vines about the time of the Grapes commencing colouring 
and the small colonies on the under side of the leaves must be removed 
with a sponge moistened with a solution of softsoap, 2 ozs. to a gallon of 
water. Asa preventive measure the pipes may be coated with a mixture of 
sulphur and skim milk. Care, however, must be taken not to overdo it 
or the fumes will act injuriously on the skin of the berries and spoil 
their appearance, the sulphur vapour being more injurious to the skin 
of the white than black Grapes, Frontignans and Muscat of Alexan¬ 
dria suffering most. 
Succession Houses .—Stop and regulate laterals so as to secure an 
even spread of foliage without crowding. Where there is not room for 
extension it is unwise to allow them to grow considerably, so as to 
necessitate a large reduction of foliage at one time, as this results in a 
check, which often induces shanking at a later period. Attend to 
thinning the bunches and berries, under rather than over-cropping the 
Vines. Make sure that the borders have abundance of water. Vines 
swelling their fruit should have a moist atmosphere, securing this by 
damping the paths two or three times a day, and if liquid manure be 
used at the latest sprinkling it will improve the Vines and act as a 
check to red spider. Stable and cowhouse draining diluted down to 
the colour of mild ale, or an ounce of guano to a gallon of water is 
sufficiently strong for damping with, not using more than a 4-gallon 
watering-canful to 30^ square yards. 
Late Vines ,—Disbud and tie out these as they require it. Close the 
houses early in the afternoon with sun heat and ample atmospheric 
moisture by frequently damping available surfaces. Vines that were 
started early in March are making rapid progress, and must receive 
every encouragement, but avoid hurrying their growth by a close 
atmosphere and high temperature, especially at night, ventilating judi¬ 
ciously early in the day so as to secure well formed, thick, leathery 
leaves. 
Young Vines .—Last year’s planted canes will now be breaking 
naturally, and when the growths are fairly on the move a little fire heat 
will prove beneficial, especially on cold days. When the growths are 
about half an inch long, gradually remove those not required, leaving the 
shoots for bearing or forming the side growths or spurs not closer than 
15 to 18 inches on each side of the cane. If fruit is taken crop lightly. 
One, or at most two bunches is as much as Vines in the first year of 
fruiting should be allowed to bear, but supernumeraries may be weighted 
with as much fruit as there is a prospect of their bringing to maturity. 
Strawberries In Pots. —The season of forced Strawberries is, or 
soon will be, at its height, and the labour of watering at its maximum. 
Examine the plants at least three times a day in bright weather, and 
whenever a plant needs water give a thorough supply. East winds are 
usually very prevalent in spring time, and air must be cautiously 
admitted, as the fruit is liable to become brown and cease swelling when 
exposed in its early stages to currents of cold, dry air. The plants 
should be at a greater distance from the roof than earlier in the season, 
so as to allow of a free circulation of air between the leaves of the 
plants and the glass. Plants that are to give very fine fruits should not 
only be those showing the largest flowers, but these must be thinned to 
about a dozen or so on each plant before they expand. Bring them 
forward in a gentle heat in the first stages of swelling, affording an 
abundance of atmospheric moisture so long as the fruit remains green. 
When it becomes whitish-green increase the temperature gradually to 
80°, 85°, or 90° on sunny days, keeping through the night at 60°, to 
65° or 70°, with 5° more on dull days or from artificial heat. Continue 
this until the fruit becomes red all over, when the temperature should 
be lowered to a minimum of 60°, in which they will increase consider¬ 
ably in size after they are apparently ripe, and to secure high flavour a 
free circulation of rather dry air must be maintained, watering only at 
the roots to keep the foliage fresh. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Tomatoes. —The season hitherto has been most unfavourable to 
the production of early crops ; what is particularly wanted is more 
sunshine. Strong old plants that gave good late crops ought now to be 
again well set with fruit, this time produced by side shoots duly thinned 
and stopped at the first or second joint beyond a cluster of fruit. 
It is those trained thinly up the roofs that give the best results. Keep 
them in a moist, well-fed state at the roots, and do not cut the foliage 
away recklessly. Autumn-raised plants placed in their fruiting quarters 
early in the year made such poor progress, or else became so drawn and 
weakly during the frosty weather, that it would have paid better in 
many instances to have destroyed them and started afresh with newly 
raised plants. The latter would have given much better crops ; but the 
former, where both plans are being tried, will give the earliest gatherings 
of ripe fruit. Strong young plants form side shoots too freely, and 
unless there is good room for laying in an extra growth or two all these 
should be removed with a view to concentrating the plant’s energies 
in the building up of stout, hard stems and the product’on of heavy 
crops of fruit. The primary leaves are fully equal to all that is required 
in the way of sap elaboration. Remove any large and unshapely central 
flowers that may form, as these produce deformed fruit. During 
the flowering period the plant should be gone over daily towards 
noon, and the flower stems smartly tapped with a padded stick, this 
distributing the pollen and effecting a good set. If large handsome 
fruits are desired it is especially necessary to effect perfect fertilisation. 
Commence top-dressing plants in pots and boxes with rich compost by 
the time the first fruits are set, and give liquid manure or light surfacings 
of special manures soon afterwards. 
Tomato Diseases. —Several diseases have to be reckoned with by 
all who grow Tomatoes under glass, and in particular where fire heat 
is freely used. Cladosporiums and the Potato disease are not the worst 
maladies that have to be contended with. Maintaining a good circulation 
of warm dry air principally by means of heat in the hot-water pipes and 
top air according to external conditions, also building up the plants 
strongly, are the best preventive measures, while if the disease blotches put 
in appearance in spite of these precautions anti-blight powder should be 
dusted over all the older leaves. Full strength Bordeaux mixture, as 
advised in books, is often more injurious than the disease itself. Directly 
black stripe appears destroy the infested plants. Varieties that form 
extra large sappy stems are the most liable to infection. Nothing 
applied outwardly will arrest the spread of this disease, and on no 
account should seed be saved and sown from a tainted stock. It is 
possible this malady and also that known as the “ sleepy ” disease, will 
eventually be traced to an attack at the roots, A free use of soot 
might prove advantageous. The anti-blight powder washed down to the 
underground portion of the stems would probably act beneficially as a 
preventive without injuring the roots, and Lysol, the new remedy for 
mildew and kindred diseases, might also be tried. One pint of this 
Lysol (an alkaline liquid) can be bought for about Is, 9J., and this 
would be sufficient for mixing with thirty gallons of water for either 
spraying or watering purposes. 
Tomato Plants for tbe Open Air. — It is a mistake to raise 
these long before they are wanted for the open air. Sturdy, late-raised 
plants are the first to become established in their fruiting quarters 
and seldom lose their first bunches of flower. This means, therefore, 
both an early and heavy crop of fruit. If seeds are sown at once in heat 
the seedlings when in rough leaf are placed singly in 4-inch pots, and 
kept near the roof glass and still in heat, they will quickly be large 
enough for hardening off and planting out. In the case of those 
planted against sunny walls head room is usually limited, and dwarf plants 
are the most desirable accordingly. Raise abundance of plants with a 
view to planting some quite in the open as well as against walls, fences, 
and temporary screens. Conference, Earliest of All, Laxton’s Open Air, 
Sutton’s Al, Dedham Favourite, Large Red, Mikado, Webb’s Sensation, 
and Ham Green Favourite are all suitable for open air culture, and a 
trial ought certainly to be given the new Frogmore Selected. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Cratons. —These are now on the move, and cuttings may be rooted 
where healthy young plants are needed. The cuttings should not be 
taken off where the wood is firm, or the lower leaves fall and roots are 
formed very slowly. After inserting tbe cuttings in sandy soil, water 
them and place in the propagating frame or under hand-lights until 
they are rooted. The hand-lights should be kept as air-tight as possible, 
the cuttings dewed over daily and shaded from the sun. Plants that 
have good heads and bold foliage may be notched, and a little sand and 
moss tied round the notched portion. In brisk heat where the syringe 
can be used freely roots will soon be emitted, and the head can be 
established in 4 or 5-inch pots without losing a single leaf. Plants 
that are needed for some time longer for table decoration and have been 
in the same pots for a good length of time should have a little chemical 
manure applied to the surface, which will assist wonderfully in retaining 
the lower foliage. Where numbers of small plants are needed the stems 
should be allowed to break after the head has been removed, and these 
side growths rooted when large enough. Small plants that have become 
stunted should have the head removed and rooted and the lower portion 
thrown away. 
Gardenias. —Young plants that have been wintered in 3-inch pots 
should be transferred to 6-inch pots without delay. If they can be 
placed in brisk bottom heat they will soon start freely into growth. The 
shoots that the plants have made may be tied outwards towards the rim 
of the pots, and others from the base will soon be produced. Pinch any 
shoots that are taking the lead, or display signs of doing so. Water 
these plants carefully, as it is a mistake to keep them too wet. If plunged 
and the material kept moist they will not need much water beyond the 
daily syringings. Where the plants cannot be plunged syringe freely 
amongst the pots and maintain a brisk moist heat. Capital flowering 
plants can be produced in 5-inch pots from cuttings of young wood 
rooted at the present time. These cuttings root very freely, and should 
be inserted singly in thumb pots. 
Vincas. —Where stoves and intermediate houses are kept gay 
V, alba and rosea are useful plants, and even in a cut state they last 
fairly well. Old plants that have enjoyed a good rest may be cut hard 
back, and started into growth in brisk moist heat. When started the 
plants may be turned out of their pots and the balls reduced by one- 
half, placing the plants again in the same size pots. For furnishing 
purposes those in .5-inch pots are often the most useful. Cuttings of 
soft wood root freely, and capital plants can soon be produced. 
Anthurlum Scherzerlanum. —This is a very useful plant, and 
deserves to be grown more extensively. For associating with Cattleyas the 
effect is all that can be desired, and the spathes when cut are useful, 
lasting a long time in water. The plants are easy to grow, providing a 
good temperature can be maintained and abundance of moisture given. 
They do not appear to be very particular about soil as long as the pots 
are well drained and an open compost is used. They thrive in fibrous 
loam and fairly coarse gravel if gcod peat cannot be had. The material 
