360 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
April S5,1895. 
THE “DROOPING” DISEASE IN TOMATOES. 
I AJi sending shrivelled Tomato plants. They were looking 
fresh and well early in the week, then they commenced flagging, 
never to freshen up again. Id is the same with pot plants, as 
those planted out, and it makes no difference whether chemical or 
animal manure only is used. Only a very few are stricken at 
present, I can see nothing wrong with the roots or stems, but 
suspect eelworms are the cause. Anyway, we have ordered a good 
supply of phenyle, and it will be used extensively directly it 
arrives. Some few Cucumbers are behaving very similarly. I 
should like to know what Mr. Abbey thinks about this case. We 
want to know something positive. No conjectures will meet the 
difficulty.—W. Iggulden. 
[The Tomato plants are singularly healthy at the roots, and 
pushing a number from the stems, the soil being specially 
favourable for root formation and supplying nourishment. 
The leaves are attacked by what is known as the “ drooping ” 
disease, the tips becoming blackened, shrivelling, and dying as if 
destroyed by a corrosive substance, such as sulphate of copper, 
which is sometimes used as ammoniacal sulphate of copper solution 
for plant diseases, and is often as disastrous as the maladies it 
is intended to prevent or remedy. The disease, however, is not 
caused by ammonia, though it may induce a certain condition of 
plant favourable to the development of the micro-organism, which 
is the whole and sole cause of the affectation. 
This is produced by a slime fungus, a myxomycetes, which, 
however, does not produce slime, as in the finger-and-toe or clubbing 
of Turnips and Brassicas generally, but is a near ally of the “ brown¬ 
ing” or ‘‘brownure” of the Yine, caused by the so-called slime 
fungus (Plasmodiophora vitis, Masses). The Tomato slime fungus, 
PJasmodiophora tomati. Abbey, blackens the leaves of Tomato 
plants, always commencing at the extremities, destroying the young 
tissues, so that they wither or suddenly collapse as if for want of 
water, whilst the older parts of the leaves become spotted with 
yellowish brown, turning to dark brown (hence the term “ brown¬ 
ing,”) and finally decay. 
The tissue is somewhat thickened in the first instance, which 
is due to the growth of the micro-organisms within the cells, 
the substance or juice of the plant being converted into 
jelly-like matter, which ultimately splits up into myriads of 
cells, it being in its active state a mere mass (plasmodium) of naked 
protoplasm, each cell surrounding itself with a wall and forming a 
spore, the resting stage of the myxomycetes, when the danger 
ceases, as these bodies cannot vegetate until certain conditions are 
available, as they often are in the spring, but more frequently 
towards the end of summer. These are but generalities, for the 
spores only lie until favouring conditions cause their bursting and 
the appearance of the zoospores to form a plasmodium, the union 
of two or more such zoospores being the only known means of 
fertilisation. Such plasmodia then creep about in quest of food, 
but how they get into Vine or Tomato leaves, or even those of 
Orchids on blocks or in baskets suspended from roofs, is not known. 
The Orchid spot slime fungus (Plasmodiophora Orchidi, Masses) 
cares nothing for the verdigris (acetate of copper) of the copper 
wire nor for sulphate, it having a remarkable rejective power— 
a sort of animal-like instinct, as well as power of movement. This 
is mentioned because sulphates have been advised for Tomato 
diseases, especially sulphate of iron and potash, and it is certain 
that myxomycetes thrive on sulphur, hence superphosphate is 
the worst known manure for Turnips, as regards attacks of 
finger-and-toe or clubbing. Perhaps it is necessary that the sul¬ 
phur combine with ammonia ; indeed, such is the case, for the 
majority of myxomycetes are always found thriving on substances 
rich in nitrogen, both as saprophytes on fungi proper, or as 
parasites on these, as well as some of the higher plants. 
Evidence of the peculiarities and modes of life of the myxomy¬ 
cetes are essential for grappling with the mischief, and gardeners 
were the first to contend successfully with these lowest forms of 
vegetation. The “ flowers ” of tan (Althalium vaporarium, Fr.) is a 
slime fungus, so called ; it is not a fungus at all, but a lower form 
of vegetation even than “ bacteria ”—a myxomycetes, and half a 
century ago I was told to sprinkle such patches of the yellow 
spume with quicklime. The old gardener had practised this over 
fifty years, and from whom he had it I know not ; all the same, it is 
the best remedy for slime fungus, whether as a saprophyte on tanner’s 
bark in stoves or as a parasite in Turnips, Vines, Tomatoes, or 
Orchids—that is, rub the spots with quicklime until dry, as for 
canker in Cucumber and Melon stems. When we come to 
look into these things it is astounding to find how scientific 
many practical gardeners are, only they do not know it. Lime 
was known to the Romans as one of the best dressings for land, 
and it is certain that British farmers once believed in it, as is attested 
by the numerous old chalk pits existing in various parts of the 
country, especially in Hertfordshire. 
For “ browning ” in Tomatoes there are three thiogs that may 
be of use—1, The preventive or remedy—a good dressing (1 peck to 
half bushel per rod) of quicklime to the soil. This will kill the 
plasmodia of the slime fungus, provide lime for forming nitrate of 
lime, either by nitrification or equivalent compounds by chemical 
agency ; this will disfavour the myxomycetes, and benefit the 
plants against other parasites. 2, Cut off the affected parts and 
burn them, dusting the plants from base to summit with air-slaked, 
but very floury, lime. 3, Eirth-up the plants with good soil, such 
as turves subjected to a temperature of over 212'’ previously, so as 
prevent any danger of eelworm, mites, or other parasites, and 
sprinkle a good handful of basic slag phosphate on every square 
yard of such top-dressing. 
The cells of the Tomato leaves where thickened and yellowish 
brown are destroyed by the myxomycetes, being crammed with spores, 
which appear about the size of small Cabbage seeds when enlarged 
1040 diameters. This hint may be of use to persons who wish 
to see the spores, but the plasmodium in the tissues appears as 
a jelly-like mass of naked protoplasm, and is only detectable by 
those conversant with normal cell structure and myxomycetes 
conformation.—Gr. Abbey.] 
HARDENBEKGIA COMPTONIANA. 
This beautiful plant was for many years known as Kennedya Comp- 
toniana, and is not by any means a new plant, as a “ Gardener ” 
surmises, who sends a specimen and desires our opinion of the plant. 
When trained to the roof of a greenhouse or a conservatory, and 
bearing its long pendulous dense racemes of brilliant blue flowers, the 
beauty of this Leguminous plant can be fully appreciated, especially if 
it be associated with climbers bearing lighter or distinctly coloured 
flowers, as the contrast shows it to better advantage. 
If planted in a border the soil must be specially prepared, a com¬ 
post of peat, light turfy loam, and sand being suitable, providing 
good drainage, whether it be grown in a pot or border, as, like many of 
its relatives, it cannot endure stagnant moisture about the roots. Some 
care, too, is needed to keep the plant free from insects, particularly 
mealy bug, which has a great liking for it. Little pruning is requisite, 
except to remove the old bare or weakly shoots. The flowers, though 
small, are borne in such dense racemes (see fig. 61) that their size 
individually is scarcely noticeable. The petals, keel, and standard are 
bright rich blue, the last-mentioned portion of the flower having a ring 
of white at the base, which renders by contrast the blue colour even more 
intense. 
VEGETABLE NOTES. 
The present is the third year in succession that Broccolis have 
succumbed to the severities of winter. Last year I decided, and as it 
proved, fortunately, to limit the amount of space occupied by ordinary 
kinds, and to increase that set apart for sprouting sorts, with the result 
that not a single plant of the former outlived the frost, while the outside 
leaves only of the latter were destroyed. Ever since the break up of 
winter we have been able to gather sprouts, first off the purple- 
sprouting, and latterly off the white. Than the last named there is no 
more delicious vegetable. I have also a good breadth of Carter’s 
Universal Broccoli. Of this every plant is alive and healthy. Those 
who have not sown any of these ought to do so at once. 
For very many years I have acted on a conviction that Spinach for 
winter and spring use is almost always sown too late in the season. The 
past season has again proved this to be correct, as I have had nothing off 
sowings made later than the end of August. It would appear that 
sowings of “ winter ” Spinach have generally failed this year, though 
Spinach is one of the hardiest of vegetables. For many weeks the 
quarter on which our crop is growing was covered with a sheet of ice, 
and yet the plants came out practically unscathed, and with a thaw the 
gathering of the crop was resumed. The sorts grown are Giant Viroflay 
and Parasseux de Catillon, the latter a capital round-leaved variety. 
Of the Lettuce-leaved I intend to sow a large space next autumn. Of 
those sown in September the one sort likely to be of any value is the 
“ Slow Seeding,” a dwarf-growing variety of Continental introduction. 
All the large round-leaved forms are much superior to the ordinary 
“ winter ” Spinach, a variety that might very well be dispensed with. 
Lettuces, in frames as well as in the open, were all destroyed. 
Being somewhat short of full-grown plants, I filled several boxes in 
October with small plants, and sowed seeds at the same time. Kept in 
a cool house the former were ready to use by the end of January. 
October seedlings, which are not numerous on account of vermin having 
eaten the seeds and young plants, are now useful ; and another sowing, 
made in the beginning of January, is almost fit for using. Of a few 
sorts tried, All the Year Round has proved the best. 
Being somewhat hopeless of getting the earliest sowing of Peas into 
the ground at a reasonable time, I sowed seeds in boxes, and after 
