362 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
Alt:i26, IS-'S. 
where there is nothing but pure fresh air, while others are in the vicinity 
of large towns. Looking at the disadvantages which debar some of us 
from gaining certificates for showing our fruits, flowers, and vegetables, 
would it not be an advantage when applying for a situation to have one 
of the R.H.S. certificates besides the usual references we get from past 
employers? No one would think of applying for employment with one 
of these certificates alone, but they would show an employer that we 
knew something more than the practice alone. Because men gain prizes 
at horticultural shows I do not consider they are the best gardeners on 
that account, for probably we might find as good if not better men 
amongst those who are not allowed to show. 
I would advise young gardeners not to be led away by any kind of 
argument either way, but to think for themselves, and they will see that 
theory alone is perfectly useless ; but combined with practice it is one of 
the best things a gardener can have to help him to understand the life¬ 
long work in which he is engaged.—W. D., Turnford. 
MAR^CHAL Niel. 
Of all Roses this is perhaps the most popular, and so well known and 
appreciated that nothing need be said by way of description or praise. 
It is a question if all private gardeners are aware how easily a good 
forcing stock of this fine Rose may be worked up by grafting, provided 
there is a good stock of plants in a sheltered position out of doors or 
under glass, the latter preferably, as scions may then be taken at any 
time during the winter. The best stock for the purpose is the Briar, 
seedlings or cuttings being suitable. 
This Rose does not thrive long on the Manetti, and although on the 
Gifferae it makes a wonderful growth, it is questionable if the plants 
will thrive for any length of time, excepting on a light soil. According 
to my experience the latter stock is more suitable for budding on in the 
open than for grafting. Presuming that a sufficient number of stocks 
are potted during the autumn in GO-sized pots, a start may be made 
—say, at the new year. A propagating case in a greenhouse or stove 
should be set apart for the purpose, large enough to hold about 
100 plants, as if this is not enough a succession may be worked. 
The stocks should be placed inside three or four weeks previous to 
working, in order to have them well on the move. The scions must be 
taken from wood of the previous year, not pithy, and as near the same 
size as the stock as may be. At the season mentioned they should be 
taken from an indoor plant, as most of the outdoor growths would be 
rendered unfit for the purpose by frost. If, however, these are taken off 
in the autumn, laid in a sheltered place and carefully protected, they are 
quite as good as indoor growths. Each joint will make a scion, but if 
wood is plentiful they may with advantage be left a little longer. Head 
off the stocks as low as possible, about IJ inch being ample height for 
working. This in order that the union may be buried at subsequent 
potting. 
It is a good plan to thoroughly rinse the pots and lower parts of the 
stocks before commencing, as this prevents the possibility of grit being 
introduced into the point of union. The ordinary whip graft is eminently 
suitable, and as it is the easiest system, should be practised. See that 
the outer hooks unite at the point of the scion and on one side ; if on 
both so much the better. This requires a little manipulation if the stock 
and scion differ in size, but is conducive of a firm union. Tie the grafts 
firmly with raffia previously moistened, no wax or moss being required 
if the work is performed expeditiously, and plunge them at once in the 
propagating case. Syringe lightly twice or thrice daily, and keep quite 
close and shaded until the union is complete and the plants are beginning 
to grow. After this admit air very gradually, and never allow the leaves 
to flag. If carefully inured to the light and air of the house the frames 
or glasses may generally be taken off when the growths are about 
inches in length. It is better to leave the plants in the case for a 
few days for fear of their flagging, when it will be advisable to again 
cover them for a short time in the middle of the day. 
After removing them from' the plunging material they may be 
stood on a moist stage and kept far enough apart to allow of syringing 
between the pots, also sprinkling the plants freely on bright days. 
Thought must now be given to where the plants are to be grown, and 
they are so accommodating that a place may be found for them in most 
gardens. A good place for the first few months is a midseason vinery, 
allowing them to grow straight up, tying the growth loosely to stakes as 
it develops. If the plant breaks naturally, two or even more shoots may 
be allowed to grow, or if this style of plant is preferred they may be 
stopped at the required height and the necessary number of shoots 
encouraged. The first shift should be given as soon as possible, as the 
plants quickly become stunted in the small pots. Four-inch pots will be 
large enough at first, using a compost of clean fibrous loam and a little 
leaf mould pressed rather firmly, and if the loam is very heavy a little 
road grit or sharp sand may be used. 
As soon as these pots are filled with roots place the plants in the 
9 or 10-inch size, a few half-inch bones being used with one large crock 
for drainage, and pure fresh loam for potting. This must now be 
rammed very firmly, as a short-jointed solid giowt i is desirable. If a 
light position under glass is now unavailable owing to the foliage of the 
Vines or other occupants causing too dense a shade, the plants may be 
stood out of doors in a warm sheltered spot, not exposing them to the 
sun immediately after repotting, or the foliage will suffer, but gradually 
inuring them to the altered conditions. If care is taken that the plants 
are not checked in this or any other way, they will by the end of 
September have made fine growths of from 10 to 15 feet in length, and 
this should be hard and well ripened to within a couple of feet of the 
top at most. If the plants are intended for forcing they must on the 
approach of severe frost be placed in a cool airy house or shed where 
they can be protected and taken inside as required. In any case they 
will need some protection, as such plants are naturally more tender than 
those grown in the open air. 
In order to induce the free production of lateral shoots for flowering, 
the stems must be trained round stakes placed in the pots, trained 
over an arching trellis or depressed in any way according to convenience 
or fancy ; and after flowering should be at once cut down to within a 
few eyes of the bottom, when strong vigorous shoots will be produced to 
be grown on in a similar way the ensuing year. Where a large number 
of plants are required, grafting may go on all through the spring, 
summer, and early autumn—at any time in fact, though the last three 
months of the year are the least suitable.—H. R. R. 
ANEMONE BLANDA. 
The flowers of this species which expand in the earliest days of the 
year are ever welcome. Sometimes the last days of the year give us a few 
of its blue blossoms, but generally it waits until the end of January or the 
beginning of February before opening its enticing flowers. Although it 
is welcome before most of the Snowdrops or the Winter Aconites 
flower, it is doubly so when it gives us a blue to harmonise with the 
white and yellow of the others. Thus, when the Snowdrops and 
Aconites are in bloom, and a few hours of sunshine come to brighten 
the garden, this “ Fair Windflower” forms a fitting companion, and the 
trio give us something to gaze on with the highest appreciation. It 
seems invidious, among the many beautiful Anemones, to single out this 
one as especially worthy of the English name of “ Fair Windflower ; ” 
but all the same, A. blanda is worthy of a pleasing name, and is so 
beautiful that every garden of hardy flowers should include it among 
its choicest occupants. 
It appears to be closely allied to the beautiful A. apennina, but 
presents a few features by which it may be distinguished from that 
species. In its best forms the flowers are of a deeper blue, and 
more finely rayed, besides being of a larger size. The styles are also 
black and pointed, and the leaves smoother, but harder and more 
dwarf, than those of A. apennina. The leaves are what are known as 
triternate, with the segments deeply cut and acute, and the involucral 
leaves stalked, trifid, and deeply cut. The flowers are said to have from 
nine to fourteen sepals, and vary in size, some of the best forms being 
over 2 inches across. The height is also variable, but it generally grows 
to about G inches high. It is believed that it came originally from 
Greece, but it is also found wild in many parts of the Mediterranean 
region. In the course of last year the writer heard of a very fine 
variety, which had been sent to this country by Mr. Edward Whittal of 
Smyrna, and which that gentleman believes came from Samos. Some 
good forms are also included among the tubers from Cyprus and Bithynia, 
The variation in colour has already been alluded to. This ranges 
from deep to pale blue, some having a slightly rosy tinge ; and there are 
also white varieties, differing considerably in purity of colour. A good 
deep blue variety is sometimes offered for sale under the name of 
Ingrami. 
In order to enjoy to the fall the beauty of Anemone blanda it should 
have a sheltered and sunny position, its flowers only opening properly 
when the sun is shining upon them. A little shelter from cold wdnds is 
an inestimable advantage to such early blooming plants as this Wind¬ 
flower. In my garden it has done well in the soil generally recom¬ 
mended—sandy peat or light loam—but recently one of my corre¬ 
spondents informed me that it was much finer if grown in a clayey 
soil. He has had great experience in the cultivation of hardy border 
flowers, alpines, bulbous and tuberous rooted plants, so that one 
feels disposed to experiment in the way of treating Anemone blanda 
with a heavier soil than formerly. 
With a plant which naturally blooms so early it is desirable to have 
it planted in the autumn, but it is probable that some bulb dealers may 
still have dry roots in stock which could still be planted. In placing 
them in the earth much difficulty is generally experienced in distinguish¬ 
ing which portion of the rough-looking tuber should be placed down¬ 
wards. Generally a few fibrous-looking roots are attached to it, and 
when this is the case these denote that that side of the tuber should be 
placed downwards. When these roots are absent it is sometimes 
possible to discover the knob-like points from which the leaves and 
flowers afterwards emerge, and which should be placed upwards. At 
times, however, careful examination fails to point out either roots or 
crowns, and one has to have recourse to planting them sideways, 
although it is sometimes difficult to do even this, so unshapely are some 
of the collected tubers when received. When large enough Anemone 
blanda may be increased by division of the tubers, and a convenient 
mode of increase to many is by means of seeds which germinate with 
more certainty if sown as soon as ripe. 
This Windflower is subject to a fungoid disease which causes much 
