368 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
AprU 25, 1895. 
WOKK.foutheWEEK. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Early Forced .—Red spider usually makes its appearance 
in the earliest house about the time the Grapes ripen, and increases 
rapidly during the time they are hanging, which is a serious matter to 
the foliage and succeeding crop. Painting the hot-water pipes with a 
thin paste of sulphur and skim milk has a deterring effect on the insects, 
the fumes given off by the sulphur when heated to 170° being fatal to 
them, and there is no danger to the Grapes providing the coating be thin 
and the pipes not highly heated. When, however, the hot-water pipes 
are heated so as to surcharge the atmosphere of the house with sulphurous 
fumes the skins of the Grapes are more or less prematurely hardened, 
and in the case of Frontignans and Muscats discoloured and injured. 
Due supplies of water at the roots and a genial condition of the 
atmosphere are essential conditions of Vine growth, and as the preserva¬ 
tion of the foliage of early forced Vines is an important factor in 
respect of next year’s crop no pains should be spared to keep it healthy. 
Whatever watering is necessary after the Grapes commence ripening 
should be supplied in the early part of fine days, so that surplus 
moisture may pass off before closing time. A light mulch of partially 
decayed sweet manure will tend to promote root action and the health 
of the foliage whilst preventing undue evaporation. 
Early Grapes do not always colour well, the defect arising from 
continued hard forcing or overcropping. It is avoided by careful 
management and judicious apportioning of the crop to the capabilities 
of the Vines. In cases of overcropping much may be done towards 
colouring by a supply of dry warm air and a comparatively low night 
temperature. Where Grapes are fully ripe a reduction in temperature 
is advisable, but it must not fall below 60° at night, and need not 
exceed 65° in the daytime by artificial means. Moderate moistnre 
should be maintained for the benefit of the foliage, and will not do any 
harm to the Grapes provided the air is changed by free ventilation. 
Succession Houses .—The work now will be of a routine order, and of 
this stopping and regulating the growths are important. Where the space 
is restricted stop the shoots two joints beyond the fruit, and as increase 
of foliage is desirable, leave the laterals above the bunch, also below 
when the spurs are a good distance apart, but when close remove the 
laterals from below the bunch except from the two lowest joints. Pinch 
the laterals at the first joint, especially those from the basal leaves, also 
those above the bunch, unless there is space for extending the laterals, 
when they may be allowed to make two or three leaves, but no more 
growth should be encouraged than can have exposure to light and air. 
After the space is fairly furnished keep the growths closely pinched to 
one joint as made. Where there is more space stopping will not take 
place until growth has extended four or more joints beyond the fruit. 
The great evil is overcrowding, which deprives the foliage of light and 
air, and restricting the growth is intended to avoid that. 
Tying the Shoots .—Securing the shoots in the places they are to 
occupy during the summer demands careful attention. It is a common 
practice to commence tying down the growths as soon as they are long 
enough to bend. This is not advisable except as a precaution against 
injury from frost, as the shoots at this stage are so tender that the 
slightest twist the wrong way breaks them. It is a better plan to defer 
tying down until the shoots are less sappy, which may be when the 
fruit is formed, but a good method is to so dispose the rod that the shoots, 
instead of being brought down to a nearly horizontal position, will have 
a good incline upward, yet sufficiently outward or oblique to admit light 
to the basal leaves of the bearing or spur growths. Always allow 
sufficient space in the ligatures for the proper development of the 
shoots. 
Vines in Floiver .—Midseason Vines, such as Hamburghs, set freely 
in a comparatively low temperature ; but it is advisable to maintain a 
moderate amount of heat, say 65° to 70°, by artificial means, so as to 
insure a fairly dry atmosphere with a change of air constantly, as 
this aids the flowers in throwing off the caps and liberating the pollen. 
Muscats and other shy-setting varieties should have a circulation of 
rather dry air, and a temperature of 65° to 70° at night, advancing to 
80°, 85°, or 90° from sun heat, raising the points of the bunches to the 
light, and liberating the pollen at midday by gently rapping the foot¬ 
stalks of the bunches. If there be a deficiency of pollen, take it from 
those varieties that afford it abundantly, such as Black Hamburgh and 
Alicante, and apply it with a camel’s-hair brush to the shy-setting 
kinds, previously removing the caps by lightly brushing over the 
bunches. 
Thinning. — Commence thinning the berries of the free-setting 
varieties, such as Black Hamburgh, directly the setting is effected, as 
then the fertilised can be distinguished from the small imperfectly 
impregnated. Some varieties, as Gros Colman, Gros Guillaume, and 
Trebbiano may be thinned whilst they are flowering, and this is the way 
to get berries an inch in diameter in the finest possible clusters of even¬ 
sized and best berries. Follow up the thinning early and late, and on 
dull days, never handling the bunches with heated hands nor rubbing 
them, heedless of the consequences, for every slight injury to the 
skin at this time develops into a large blemish later on. Remove 
surplus bunches unflinchingly, as it is better to under rather than over¬ 
crop, and every bunch or berry removed early is to the advantage of 
those left on the Vine. 
Young Vines .—Those planted last year are breaking naturally, and 
may be assisted with gentle fire heat in cold weather. The canes being 
depressed to cause them to break regularly down to the basal buds, 
should be tied in position after the growths have started fairly, other¬ 
wise they will acquire a position unsuited for tying down withont 
danger of breakage. If more than one shoot start from a joint remove 
the smallest, leaving one only, and when the most promising can be 
decided upon disbud, leaving the best shoots about 18 inches apart on 
both sides of the canes. Crop permanent Vines lightly, one or two 
bunches being the maximum, as the better the Vines are established the 
more satisfactory they will prove in the end. Any extra Vines planted 
to fruit early and afterwards cut out may each carry six or eigtt 
bunches, or even more, according to the vigour of the Vines ; but over¬ 
cropping will certainly prove disastrous to both colour and quality. 
Planting Vines .—When Vines are starting into growth naturally is 
a good time for planting, though some gardeners prefer the late summer 
after the wood is mature, but whilst the leaves are on the Vines. For 
very early forcing inside borders are the best, and heated ones desirable 
for the tender varieties, such as Black Muscat (Muscat Hamburgh), 
Muscat of Alexandria, and Canon Hall, also for Madresfield Court, 
These splendid Grapes may then be ripened by the end of May or early 
in June, when they bring good returns. For ordinary purposes the 
border may be partly within and partly outside, planting the Vines 
inside the house. The Vines, it is assumed, were cut back in early 
winter and have been kept in a cool house, the buds now having grown 
an inch or two long. Turn them out of the pots, remove every particle 
of soil, carefully preserving the fibres. Spread the roots out straight 
and flat, the soil of the border having been brought to the required 
level, covering the roots to a depth of 3 inches, working the soil well 
amongst them with the hand, and giving a good supply of tepid water, 
mulching with about an inch thickness of short litter. 
If the canes have not been shortened do not cut them now, but pinch 
the growths at the first leaf from the upper portion down to where fresh 
growth is desired to issue, and cut away the pinched part when the 
Vines have made several inches of growth in the desired shoot or shoots, 
as then there is no danger of bleeding, and the extra leafage will favour 
root formation. Sprinkle the house and Vines twice a day, and if the 
weather be bright and the panes of glass large, shade lightly from 
10 A M. to 2 P.M., when the house should be closed, damping all available 
surfaces. Temperature 55° at night, 65° by day artificially, and 70° to 
75° with sun, running up to 85°. When the Vines start into growth 
give every encouragement, increasing the temperature to from 60° to 65° 
at night, 70° to 75° by day, and 80° to 85° or 90° from sun heat. Avoid 
forcing treatment at the beginning, it only causing growth at the 
expense of stored matter, and induces thin foliage, incapable of full 
elaboratory functions. 
Cherry House. — When the stoning is completed the fruit 
commences colouring and swelling for ripening. The temperature 
may then be raised, but not exceeding 65° by artificial means in 
the daytime and 55° to 60° at night, with a little ventilation, increasing 
it at 70°; but the temperature must not be allowed to exceed that 
degree in the early part of the day without full ventilation. From the 
commencement of colouring until the trees are cleared of their fruit 
syringing must cease, or the fruit will crack, but a good moisture should 
be maintained in the house by keeping the surface of the borders moist,, 
or if the trees are in pots damping the floor two or three times a day, 
avoiding, however, a stagnant atmosphere. The border should not lack 
moisture, trees in pots being well watered. Aphides must be kept 
under, fumigation or vapouring being the only safe process after the 
fruit commences ripening. 
Cucumbers. —Fruit is now abundant and cheap, the plants despite 
the severe weather having made good progress. Attend to tying the 
shoots, stopping at one or two joints beyond the fruit, removing bad 
leaves and exhausted growths so as to maintain a succession of bearing 
wood. Water plants in houses abundantly, and with weak liquid manure 
about twice a week, syringing the foliage and walls daily about 3.30 p.m., 
when the house can be closed. Preserve a night temperature of 65° to 
70°, 70° to 75° by day artificially, 80° to 85° or 90° from sun heat, venti¬ 
lating from 75°, being careful to avoid cold currents, and close sufiBciently 
early to run up to 90°, 95°, or even 100°, with abundance of atmospheric- 
moisture in the house. Sprinkle available surfaces occasionally in the 
evening with liquid manure, or a little sweetened horse dung on the 
surface of the bed will supply ammonia to the atmosphere, nutriment to- 
the soil, and encourage surface roots. 
Pits and Frames ,—Plant in these will hardly need shading as yet,, 
but the foliage must not be allowed to flag. Use tepid water through a 
fine-rose watering-pot at about 3 P.M. over the foliage, a light sprinkling 
sufficing, closing the lights at the same time, but as the nights are as yet 
cold be careful that the foliage becomes dry before night. Close early 
and employ a thick night covering. Maintain a good bottom heat 
by linings, renewing them as necessary. Pot or sow ridge varieties if 
not already done, keeping these and other young plants near the glass. 
IVIelons.—As the fruits of the earliest plants increase in size the 
supports must be lowered or otherwise adjusted. Stop the laterals 
frequently, or thin them where they are crowded. Supply water or 
liquid manure liberally to plants on which the fruits are growing 
rapidly, but avoid excess of either, especially liquid manure, which may 
