3T8 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
May 2,1895. 
divided up. The growth is green, and one is not so liable to pro¬ 
pagate insects with the plants. 
The stems may be laid on entire or cut in lengths, the latter 
being preferable, as the eyes break more freely. If the old plants 
have been infested with insects, the stems must be well sponged. 
I usually fill the pans to within an inch or so of the top with 
crocks, laying a little live sphagnum below and above the stems. 
They are then placed in the East Indian house, and damped over 
daily with the syringe. When the growths are well advanced 
they may be separated by cutting through the old stem between 
®ach with a sharp knife. They may eventually be either potted 
singly or grouped to form small neat specimens, and if kept 
through the growing season in a brisk moist heat they will by 
the end of the ensuing year have formed strong well-furnished 
plants.—H. R. R. 
FUNKIAS. 
These handsome deciduous herbaceous plants are worthy of 
iJeing largely employed in extensive gardens, as there are so many 
positions in which they thrive, where other plants do not. The 
appearance of the strong growing varieties is bold and striking, 
and those of less vigorous growth have such beautifully marked 
and showy leaves, which vary considerably in the different stages 
©f growth, that they are thoroughly adapted for pot culture ; 
indeed, I think those cultivators who commence growing them in 
this way are not likely to relinquish the practice, especially if they 
happen to have much house decoration to do, and who has not in 
these days of artistic development ? 
All the species are readily propagated by division, which may 
be effected during the winter and spring months. All that is 
required is to cut the clumps through with a sharp spade. Each 
portion ought to comprise several crowns, except in those cases 
where a particular variety requires to be propagated as quickly 
as possible, then each crown may be planted separately, and 
especial care should be taken when the division is made to secure 
a few young roots to every crown. The present is a good time to 
divide strong plants in the open air, as they are now commencing 
their growth. I strongly advise those who have not hitherto grown 
Funkias in pots to give them a trial at once. Sieboldiana and 
Fortune! are two of the most vigorous growing varieties, and 
well adapted for planting in masses in the foreground of shrub- 
berries, indeed they will succeed fairly well in any odd corner 
under the shade of trees, where few other things except Ivy will 
grow. 
It is, however, necessary to prepare a good sized hole before 
planting, so that they may start with a foot or so of soil around 
them quite clear of tree roots ; when established they will take care 
of themselves. A little decayed manure may with advantage be 
placed at the bottom of the hole. I have several fine clumps 
(which have been treated in this way) growing under the dense 
shade of Lilac bushes where few other plants will thrive. The 
flowers of the first named variety are a delicate mixture of white 
and pale lilac in colour, and those of Fortune! lilac of two distinct 
shades. When cut the flowers do not last long, but being borne on 
stems 18 inches in length often prove useful for arranging in 
trumpet-shaped glasses. The beautiful glaucous leaves, having 
conspicuous ribs, are attractive in appearance throughout the 
summer. 
F. japonica aurea is one of the best of the species, the bright 
variegation of the leaves, in which there is a gradual blending 
of green with the golden markings, gives them an unique 
appearance. Unfortunately, however, as the summer advances the 
leaves become dull in appearance. Notwithstanding this undesir¬ 
able freak it is a great favourite wherever grown, and is invaluable 
when grown in pots for decorative purposes. F. ovata alba 
marginata is also another form of attractive appearance, the leaves 
having a^ broad margin of white, and on that account is of great 
value' When grown in pots. F. subcordata is a green-leaved kind 
less vigorous in growth than many of the varieties having plain 
green leaves. The flowers, which are white, are borne only 
slightly above the foliage, which rarely attains a height of more 
than 9'inches. The variety is on that account suitable for planting 
on rock work or near the front of herbaceous borders. 
In gardens where pleasure grounds are extensive a fine feature 
may be made of Funkias by planting large masses of them in 
various positions. For instance, when traversing the numerous 
walks which one always finds in such grounds, it is not unusual 
to come upon naturally formed recesses with overhanging trees 
and surrounding shrubs. Here a large mass of F. Sieboldiana, 
encircled by variegated Periwinkle or dwarf growing British 
Ferns, would come upon any garden wanderer as a pleasant surprise. 
Undulating banks, having a background of trees or shrub?, might 
with advantage be converted into a Funkia quarter. 
In such a position it would be interesting to plant every species 
and variety known to be worth cultivating, arranging each in 
irregular masses, so that the pleasing shades of colour which their 
leaves possess might be carefully blended rather than contrasted. 
The habit of growth of each particular variety should also be care¬ 
fully considered at planting time. In doing this some would plant 
the strong growing ones on the top of the bank, arranging the 
others according to their height, so as to form a graduated surface 
from front to back. A much better plan, I think, is to place a 
good clump of the tallest growers in prominent positions here and 
there, and then plant patches of the dwarf varieties between, 
allowing each ample room to develop, so that the natural surface 
of an undulating bank, in which swells and depressions of outline 
merge into each other in easy grace, is distinctly maintained. 
A feature like this well carried out is, I opine, a not unworthy 
adjunct to the most pleasing scenes to be found in the best of 
British gardens, and Funkias are a genus of plants deserving of a 
greater amount of attention from gardeners in the United 
Kingdom.—H. D. 
DISINFECTING SOIL. 
Disinfecting soil for Cucumbers and Tomatoes as a preventive 
of diseases caused by eelworm, mites, and fungi, including 
bacteria and myxomycetes, or so-called slime fungus, is a very 
important subject. "Whenever there is a suspicion of the soil 
intended for these, or indeed any kind of plant, harbouring 
parasitic micro-organisms it should be disinfected before use. 
This may be effected in various ways, the more drastic being that 
of fire and poison. 
1, Fire .—Procure a large iron plate and place it on an 
improvised furnace formed of loose bricks about four tiers high, 
leaving a slight space here and there as draught holes. Make 
what is termed a hearth fire, and when the plate becomes hot 
place the turves thereon, grass side downwards, and leave them 
until heated, so that the hand cannot be borne a minute on the 
top or soil side. Remove the sods so heated and stack them. 
Follow with another lot of turves on the hot plate, and from 
thence to the stack, and so on until the whole stock of compost 
has been treated. When such a stack of loam is cool enough it is 
fit for use, and in no way prejudiced as compost, provided it is 
not surcharged with coal tar, as would be the case if exposed to 
a “ green ” coal fire. This can be avoided by using charcoal or 
coke, but there is no danger from coal if the hot plate is used. 
2, Poison .—Procure an ordinary paraffin cask, cut it in two, so 
as to form two tubs, and burn out any petroleum therein by a wisp 
of dry straw lighted, not burning the wood, but merely the oil. 
Put into the base of one of these a wooden faucet or tap. Wash 
both out clean, and place in one 14 gallons of water. Then place 
in the other tub 1 oz. of finely pulverised corrosive sublimate 
(mercuric chloride, HgCl 2 ), and pour on this 2 gallons of hot water, 
and allow it to stand overnight, after well stirring. Pour the 
solution into the barrel containing the 14 gallons of water, and let it 
stand six hours, agitating at least once an hour to insure a thorough 
mixture, and it is then fit for use. Spread out the soil 1 foot thick 
and sprinkle it with the preparation, using about a gallon per 
square yard. If the soil, as should be the case, is in a moist state 
previously, the corrosive sublimate solution will pass through about 
the thickness of soil named. Let it lie twenty-four hours, then 
chop up and mix thoroughly, but not placing the heap thicker than 
the 1 foot for at least another twenty-four hours. The soil may 
be used, say on the third day, and if thoroughly impregnated 
with the poison all parasites will be destroyed. In the case of ^ 
ordinary soils, it is only necessary to water with the corrosive 
sublimate solution in the usual way, giving the quantity named per 
square yard. 
It may be applied after the plants are put out, and it will not 
injure them, but, of course, it is not then a disinfectant, but a 
curative agent, and if eelworms are present it will kill them ; but 
it will not repair the damage they have done. The strength 
recommended is one part in two thousand (half that used in 
surgery), and will not injure the plants, but as a virulent poison 
must be used with extreme caution. 
3, Non poisons .—Preparations of carbolic acid, such as soluble 
phenyle and creolin (the former Little’s and the latter Jeyea’), not 
only kill the parasites, but actually benefit the plants, using twenty- 
five drops per gallon of rain water, or an ordinary wineglassful 
may be used with every 3 gallons of water for disinfecting soil, 
and moistening it evenly through, as in watering plants generally. 
It is not desirable to use it on dry soil, but on that moderately 
moist, or in such condition as when plants are usually watered. 
These substances in no way sterilise the micro-organisms beneficial 
to vegetation, and if mineral manures are given—especially lime^ 
