392 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
May 2, 189R 
and seedling. Fifth, Mr. C. Turner (Slough) with Mrs, Harry Turner, 
Countess, Roland, and Winnifred, Sixth, Mr. Clements. Seventh, 
Mr. Lees (Middleton). 
Class J, pair of Alpines.—First, Mr. Stelfox with Diadem and 
seedling. Second, Mr. Wood with Diadem and seedling. 
Class K, single plants, yellow centres.—First, Mr. Beswick with Rev. 
Mr. Durnford. Second, Mr. Beswick with John Allen. Third, Mr. 
Gorton with seedling. Fourth, Mr. Gorton with Emir. Fifth, Mr. 
Beswick with Percy. Sixth, Mr. Bentley with Chas, W. Needham. 
Class L, single plants, white centres.—First, Mr. John Lees with 
seedling. Second, Mr. Turner with Winnifred. Third, Mr. Beswick 
with John Ashton, Fourth, Mr. Gorton with Stanley. Fifth, Mr. 
Beswick with seedling. Sixth, Mr. Gorton with Mrs. Beswick. 
Premier Alpine of the show, Mr. Charles Turner with Rowland ; and 
special prize for the best plant of John Allen, Mr. Bentley. 
Class M, three dissimilar black-ground Polyanthuses.—First, Mr. A. 
Oldham (Middleton) with Mrs. Brownhill and two seedlings. Second, 
Mr. Beswick with Mrs. Brownhill, Cheshire Favourite, and Lancashire 
Hero. Third, Mr. G, Thornley (Middleton) with Mrs. Brownhill, Exile, 
aud Cheshire Favourite. Fourth, Mr. Middleton with Mrs. Brownhill, 
Exile, and Cheshire Favourite. 
Class N, three dissimilar red ground Polyanthuses.—First, Mr. 
Thornley, with Middleton Favourite, George IV,, and Sidney Smith. 
Second, Mr, Middleton, with William IV., Lancer, and George IV. 
Third, Mr. Beswick, with Middleton Favourite, Exile, and William IV. 
Class 0, single plants, black grounds.—First, Mr. Thornley, with 
Mrs. Brownhill. Second, Mr. Oldham, with seedling. Third, Mr. 
Beswick, with Cheshire Favourite. Fourth, Mr. Thornley, with Exile. 
Fifth, Mr, Thornley, with Mrs. Holden. 
Class P, single plants, red grounds.—First, Mr. Thornley, with 
seedling. Second, Mr. Thornley, with George IV. Third, Mr. 
Thornley, with William IV. Fourth, Mr. Thornley, wiih President. 
Fifth, Mr. Middleton, with Middleton Favourite. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN, 
Disbudding-. —As soon as the fruit has set on Apricots, Peaches, and 
Nectarines proceed with the operation of disbudding superfluous 
growths, continuing it gradually until all unnecessary shoots are 
removed, and only those left which are essential for the continued 
productiveness of the trees, to provide for due extension, and to 
encourage the proper development of the fruit. Apples, Pears, Plums, 
and Cherries may have the growths thinned out immediately the latter 
are long enough, they having made considerable progress as a rule before 
the trees flower, but in this respect reference is made chiefly to Apples 
and Pears. It is best to take the earliest opportunities of disbudding, so 
that the process may be spread over short intervals without having 
recourse to frequent removals of large quantities at one operation. 
Se-vere disbudding disarranges the circulation of the sap to an extent 
which may prove an unfavourable if not a serious check. Therefore, 
for this reason alone, it is best to commence in time, the stronger the 
growths the greater is the check to the flow of sap. When the weather 
is cold, and growth makes no progress, cease disbudding until activity 
in the trees recommences. Attend first to the higher parts where the 
vigour is the greatest, and work downwards to the weaker, which 
may well be left later, not only without detriment, but with positive 
advantage. 
Apricots, —As these bear fruit both on the young wood of the 
previous year and on spurs formed naturally disbudding should be pro¬ 
ceeded with carefully, removing first the ill placed growths wherever 
situated, Those on the back and under sides may be dispensed with 
entirely. Any promising shoots on the front of permanent branches 
that appear likely to develop into natural spurs may be left, preventing 
other young shoots obstructing light from them. They need abundance 
of both light and air, that their development may be gradual, tending to 
fruitfulness. Leave a sufficiency of young shoots all over the trees as 
successionals to take the place of the present bearing growths. One 
from the base of each of the latter is ample for this purpose, except 
where there are vacancies to fill, when two may be reserved. The shoot 
at the point of the bearing branch must be allowed to grow, so that sap 
is attracted to the fruit. It may, however, be pinched at the third or 
fourth good leaf lateral, the sub-lateral growth following being kept to 
one leaf. 
Peaches and ITectarlnes. —As a rule with these, the bearing 
parts are kept confined to the young wood, natural spurs not forming so 
freely as with Apricots, Any that do form should be encouraged by 
giving them full exposure. They prove useful on the front part of 
branches, and at other places where it is necessary to dispense with 
annual growths, spurs may be developed, though crowding of these, as 
of other growths, must not be tolerated. The management of the young 
successional shoots reserved at the base of bearing wood is precisely the 
same as for Apricots. As the growths advance lay them in in the proper 
direction. Shorten the leader of the bearing shoots when the lower 
leaves are large enough, reserving three of the best to assist the fruit 
swelling, which is of great importance. Without such aid the fruit 
drops prematurely, and the prospects of a crop are spoiled. Sometimes 
an error in shortening the bearing shoots at the winter pruning to a 
wrong bud may result in this, as it is impossible for wood growth to be 
produced from those parts containing only blossom buds. The first 
available wood growth may in such cases be made a leading shoot, and 
the part barren of wood buds shortened to where one starts, providing 
there is fruit below. If not, these details are unnecessary, the shoot 
being eligible for cutting out entirely, giving the space for the training 
of a successional shoot. Very strong growths issuing from dormant 
buds at any part may well be cut out before they assume the form of 
robbers, and utilise a large amount of sap, to the detriment of medium 
and weak wood. If well placed, however, for filling up vacancies- 
existing reserve them, subduing their vigour somewhat by stopping, so 
as to cause the sending out of side growths, which will be of medium 
strength, and more likely to be fruitful. 
Plums. —Wall trees require the shoots on the young wood regu¬ 
lating by disbudding the ill-placed and weakest, such as those on the 
back and under sides, reducing the front growths to fair distances apart. 
Any of these that do not assume the desirable characteristics of natu¬ 
rally developed spur growths should be induced to do so artificially by 
pinching to the third good leaf. Reserve a number of well placed 
shoots for growing full length, eventually laying them in to the wall 
without crowding. 
Apples and Pears. —Growths are very freely produced from wall 
and restricted trees generally, a large proportion of which might be 
gradually reduced by disbudding. Besides growth from visible buds 
there is a number from quite dormant buds, both among the spurs and 
on the old branches, and it is these which choke the trees with useless, 
unfruitful growths. Their removal is extremely beneficial to those left, 
and simplifies the management later in the season. What will ulti¬ 
mately be spray in the centres of standard and half-standard trees may 
easily be rubbed or cut off now. 
Vines on Walls. —If pruned on the spur system all growths 
beyond two must be removed from each spur, leaving one to bear fruit 
and the other as a successional shoot to be pruned to two buds the fol¬ 
lowing winter. Where strong, well-ripened canes have been laid in 
some of the buds must be rubbed off. Bearing growths a foot apart 
are quite close enough to admit of the foliage [having a proper share of 
light and air. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and TTectarlnes. —Earliest Forced House .—In the 
structure containing trees of Alexander or Waterloo and Early Louise 
Peaches, Advance and Early Rivers Nectaiines, started about the middle 
of December, the fruit is ripening or ripe. The foliage must be kept 
dry, as water will act injuriously upon the fruit, but due supplies of 
water should be given at the roots, also the floor and other surfaces 
sprinkled twice a day in bright weather and occasionally in dull, so as 
to secure a fair amount of atmospheric moisture. This is essential to the 
health of the foliage, which otherwise would be injuriously affected and 
the wood and buds become prematurely ripened. 
Trees of the standard varieties, such as Hale’s Early, Royal George, 
Stirling Castle, Dymond, and Grosse Mignonne Peaches; Lord Napier,. 
Darwin, and Elruge or Stanwick Elruge Nectarines that were started 
early in December are now taking their last swelling, and must not 
suffer for lack of water at the roots ; the atmosphere ought also to be 
kept moist by frequently sprinkling the paths during the day, syringing 
the trees in the morning and again when closing the house. This will 
keep down red spider. It is imperative that the foliage be perfectly 
clean when the fruit commences to ripen, as the syringing must then 
cease over the trees, and the red spider, if any, will then so increase as 
to seriously imperil the current crop and prejudice that of the following 
year. The night temperature will be quite safe at 65° to 70°, and 6° less, 
though retarding the ripening, will not tax the energies of the trees 
so much as the higher temperatures. Leave the ventilators slightly 
open constantly at the upper part of the house for effecting a change of 
air and preventing the deposition of moisture upon the apex of the 
fruit. This is sometimes provocative of “ spot ” in the finest specimen,, 
as the fungus and moisture are co-relative conditions. In the day¬ 
time 70° to 75° by artificial means, and 10° to 15° more with sun heat, 
will be suitable temperatures. Cease syringing the trees directly the 
fruit commences to soften for ripening, otherwise the skin will be dis¬ 
figured and the quality deteriorated, often acquiring a musty flavour,, 
due to presence of a minute fungus or mould. 
The Stoning Period .—When the stones are being formed hurrying- 
the trees may bring off the greater part of the fruit, and overcropping, 
even if stoning be effected, has a tendency to promote premature or 
imperfect ripening, the fruit not swelling freely, nor attaining good 
flavour. A temperature of 60° to 65° at night and 70° to 75° by day is 
as high as is safe until the stoning is completed ; therefore avoid high 
night temperatures and sudden fluctuations by careful attention to- 
ventilation. A little air left on at night will prevent the deposition of 
moisture on the foliage to any serious extent, increasing the ventilation, 
when the sun shines upon the house in the morning, yet without, 
lowering the temperature. Avoid fumigation or even vaporisation at 
this stage, as there is danger of crippling the foliage, and this gives a 
check such as sometimes causes the fruit to fall. Early closing is an 
advantage in promoting the advancement of the fruit, but it must not 
be done to the extent of undue excitement, nor be continued too late,. 
