May 2,1895. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
393 
the temperature being allowed to decline with that of the sun. A little 
ex ra latitude eiven the growths will aid the fruit in the last swelling, 
but on no account allow foliage to be made that must be removed after¬ 
wards in large quantity, as this will give a check disastrous to the crop. 
Trees Swelling their Fruits. —When the fruit is set it swells rapidly 
until the commencement of the stoning process, then remains compara¬ 
tively stationary for a month or six weeks, and after that takes the 
final swelling for ripening. The first swelling is materially accelerated 
by a genial condition of the atmosphere, and the means employed to 
secure a good root action with a steady progressive development of the 
growths are best effected by a judicious and gradual regulation of the 
shoots by the process of disbudding. Thinning the fruit early and 
judiciously is essential to secure a good size in the first swelling, as the 
matter that would otherwise be expended in the fruit removed goes to 
those retained for the crop. Overcrowding must be avoided by judicious 
thinning, leaving no more growths than can have full exposure to light, 
removing any surplus gradually, so as not induce very vigorous growth 
in the shoots retained. Avoid a confined moist atmosphere, as this 
favours wood growth at the expense of the fruit. Ventilation must be 
such as to insure the thorough elaboration of the growths as made, 
keeping them short-jointed and sturdy. The more vigorous the tree the 
greater is the danger of the fruit being cast in stoning, and the mischief 
is aggravated by severe disbudding. In the last swelling after stoning 
the shoots should be well tied down, so that the fruit may have the 
benefit of all the light possible, and also be exposed to the sun. 
Moderate lateral extension materially assists the swelling of the fruit, 
care being taken that the principal foliage and fruit be not interfered 
with. Inside borders must be thoroughly watered when necessary, and 
extra nourishment given to weakly trees, either in the shape of approved 
fertilisers as top-dressings washed in or as liquid manure. 
Figs.— Early Forced Irees in Pots. —The fruit of the large varie¬ 
ties, such as White Marseilles and Brown Turkey, is now ripening or 
ripe, and the supply of water at the roots being diminished, but not so 
as to affect the foliage, and if the syringing is discontinued, and a free 
circulation of warm, dry air afforded, leaving a little ventilation by the 
top lights constantly, excellent dishes of wholesome and luscious Figs 
will be produced. These drier conditions must be relative only, for 
moderate soil moisture and a congenial atmosphere are necessary for 
good results in the second crop, and may be secured by an occasional 
■damping of the paths and walls in bright weather, or when the surfaces 
become dry. As soon as the first crop is gathered examine the trees for 
red spider and scale, syringing them with approved insecticides. Syringe 
twice a day, renew the top-dressings, and water at the roots with weak 
liquid manure. If the second crop be very abundant thin it by remov¬ 
ing the fruits at the upper part of the growths, leaving that for the 
crop nearest to the base, being careful not to overtax the trees, as this 
will prejudice the first crop another season. 
Early Forced Planted-out Trees. —The fruit is advancing rapidly for 
ripening, and in taking the last swelling is greatly benefited by thorough 
moisture at the roots without undue moisture arising from the soil. 
Mulching the surface after a good watering prevents evaporation to a 
great extent, encourages surface roots, and a good result in the second 
crop is assured under other favouring conditions. Cease syringing the 
trees when the fruit commences ripening, avoiding a superabundance of 
moisture about the house, having a little ventilation at the top con¬ 
stantly and a free circulation until the fruit is all gathered. Fruit 
intended for packing should be gathered slightly under ripe, so as to 
keep a few days and travel better than thoroughly ripe ; but Figs for 
home use should be left until they have “ tears ” in the eyes, the skins 
cracked with luscionsness, and the head drooping; then they are 
delicious. 
Succession Souses.—KitexxA to stopping side or spur growths at the 
fifth joint, and subsequently to one or two, but too many side shoots 
must not be encouraged, as the fruit and wood require light and air for 
maturation. Train in extensions their full length, thinning or removing 
strong growths, so as to admit light to those retained and to the fruit. 
Syringe the trees so as to prevent attacks of red spider, supplying water 
as necessary to maintain thorough moisture at the roots. Renew the 
mulching, especially where the trees are in restricted borders, and keep 
it moist so as to enconrage surface rooting, and feed with top-dressings 
of the advertised fertilisers. 
Strawberries In Pots. —There is always danger of red spider 
appearing on Strawberry plants forced in vineries and Peach houses, and 
it is soon transmitted to the Vines and Peach trees, becoming a source of 
much anxiety to the grower. Much can be done to prevent infection by 
removing the plants to another structure for finishing off, but there is 
not such convenience in many places, so that the arrangements are 
mainly confined to keeping up a succession of fruit. Crops ripening too 
fast may be retarded in a variety of ways for several days in case an 
extra supply is required for particular purposes. Turning the fruits 
from the sun, shifting the plants to a north house, or after the fruit is 
ripe removing the plants to an airy fruit room or even open shed, taking 
the usual^ precautions against birds, are some of the expedients, and 
others will suggest themselves. Plante intended for affording late 
•supplies and grown in low houses or pits should have their flower-spikes 
thinned to the requisite number, and if the pots are stood on ashes, or 
even plunged, there will be a moist genial atmosphere highly favourable 
to the plants, provided the material is kept properly moist. Many 
excellent Strawberries are grown in frames, the plants being plunged in 
coal ashes well up to the glass, but leaving room for a circulation of air 
to play between the glass and the leaves of the plants, and the forward 
plants from these structures can always be selected to take the place of 
those that are ripe or ripening. Duly supplied with water, and fed with 
liquid manure, very fine fruits are obtained in cold frames, and they 
come in a fortnight before outdoor supplies. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
lyxignonette. —Plants that are flowering should not be allowed to 
seed or their growth will soon be brought to a standstill. When this is 
done the plants under good treatment continue to grow and yield fine 
spikes of bloom. When the pots are full of roots clear soot water should 
be given every time the plants need water. On no account must the 
plants be allowed to become dry, if they do the foliage will soon turn 
yellow and the spikes of bloom be very poor. Plants raised from 
seeds sown in 5-inch pots in September, liberally thinned to four or five 
plants and pegged down, may be allowed to come into flower if 
needed. The plants not needed to bloom may have the first flowers 
removed, and the spikes from the next growth will be finer. The 
plants should occupy a cool airy place and stand on some moisture- 
holding base. Where standards or large pyramids are required for 
autumn or winter, seeds of Parsons’ White and Miles’ Hybrid Spiral 
should be sown at once in 2^-inch pots, and covered with a little soil. 
When large enough the young plants should be thinned to one for the 
former and three or four for the latter. The plants should be grown 
for a time in an intermediate temperature, and then be transplanted to 
a cooler structure, never permitting them to become root-bound ; 10-inch 
pots are suitable for flowering the plants in. 
Rbodantbes. —When these are needed in good condition for 
decoration no time should be lo:t in transplanting the seedlings. The 
pots may be filled with loam, a little leaf mould, one-seventh of 
decayed manure and a little sand, being well drained and filled firmly to 
within an inch of the rim, the remainder being filled more lightly to 
prick the seedlings into. Water at once, shade from the sun until 
established, then give air freely to insure sturdy compact growth. This 
is a saving of seeds, but the easiest method is to sow in the pots in which 
they are to flower and then thin out the plants to half an inch apart 
when the seed leaves have been produced. The plants are more leggy, 
but this is not seen when grouped amongst other plants. 
Primula obconlca. —Seedlings should be ready for transplanting 
from the seed pans into boxes an inch apart in a compost of equal parts 
of leaf mould and loam with a liberal addition of sand. They should 
be placed in an intermediate temperature and shaded from the sun. 
These are most useful plants, and flower profusely during the winter. 
For the conservatory or for cutting they are invaluable. P. obconica is 
so easily raised from seeds that the old plants are not worth retaining. 
Cinerarias. —A few of the best varieties may be selected for seed¬ 
bearing. Seedlings should be placed in pans or boxes 1J inch apart until 
they are large enough for small pots. To grow these plants well they 
should never be kept in heat or their constitution will be ruined. A 
few more seeds may be sown in a pan in an intermediate temperature. 
As soon as the seeds have germinated, harden, and place in a cool house. 
Give all the light possible, but shade from bright sunshine. 
Tuberous Begonias. —Tabers started early in boxes should be 
well established in their first pots, and ready for larger sizes. Large 
tubers may have a good shift, and the plants be hardened as soon 
as possible. They do well after potting in frames where gentle bottom 
heat cm be given by the aid of fermenting material, and allowed 
gradually to cool down. If kept too long in a close confined atmosphere 
they grow soft, and the foliage is very liable to rust, and once the plants 
are attacked they rarely do well. Later plants should be gradually 
hardened, so that they will bear greenhouse treatment as early as 
possible. Seedlings in pans and boxes may be planted out 4 inches 
apart on the surface of a hotbed, on which 3 or 4 inches of old potting 
soil and Mushroom bed refuse has been spread. They grow rapidly 
under these circumstances, and the best can be lifted out with good 
balls and potted. 
Cllvlas. —As these go out of flower repotting should be done without 
delay. Good varieties growing in 6-inch pots may, if necessary, be 
placed in others 2 inches larger, while those in large pots that have 
become crowded may be split and potted singly in 6 and 7-inch pots, in 
which they are most useful. It is not necessary to secure a quantity of 
roots with each portion, as they may be inserted similar to Pine suckers. 
After potting they need the most careful watering until they are rooting 
freely—too much will prove detrimental to them. The plants may be 
placed in any structure where they can be partially shaded from the 
sun, and a fair amount of moisture maintained. They will under these 
conditions soon form roots and establish themselves. Seedlings should 
be kept in a warm house, or the progress is slow at first. The plants do 
well in good loam, one-seventh of decayed manure and sand. 
Carnation IVXiss Tollffe. —Young plants raised from layers last 
autumn should be placed in from 3 to 5-inch pots without delay. These 
may occupy a cool, light, airy frame, where they will grow without 
drawing. Water carefully, and pinch the shoots to induce the plants 
to branch. Cuttings rooted in thumb pots in heat under bell-glasses 
should be hardened as quickly as possible, and when the pots are filled 
with roots be placed into 3-inch. Cuttings may still be rooted of 
this or any other good winter flowering variety. Plants of Miss Joliffe, 
Winter Cheer, and others rooted late last year, and now in 6-inch pots, 
will be ready for placing into others 2 inches larger. 
Pink IVXargaret. —These are exceedingly useful for autumn, winter, 
and spring flowering. Many of the flowers are sweet, large, double, and 
of the most beautiful colours. Seedlings should not be kept too long in 
a close confined atmosphere, as they do best under cool conditions, and 
once they are established in 2-inch pots the points of the plants should 
