414 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
May 9, 1895. 
which, because it is air-tight, becomes overheated. Sach delicate fruit 
ought never to be placed in barrels, except for near-by markets, and 
then only under the most favourable conditions of weather. Were 
American Apples marketed in as sound condition as Oranges are, if 
they were graded as Oranges are as to quality and size, if they were 
wrapped and packed as Oranges are, they would be worth three times as 
much as they now command in Liverpool.” 
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FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines.— Early Houses. —Where the Grapes are ripe moderate 
moisture must be maintained for the benefit of the foliage, and it will 
not injure the fruit, provided air is admitted so as to prevent the depo¬ 
sition of moisture on the berries. A little ventilation constantly, and a 
gentle warmth in the hot-water pipes, which will be necessary to prevent 
the temperature falling below 60° at night, and by increasing it early 
on fine mornings the Grapes will heat equally with the surrounding 
air, and spotting thus be prevented. If Black Hamburghs, or even 
Madresfield Court, a slight shading, such as that from a double thickness 
of herring net drawn over the roof, will prevent the Grapes losing colour 
to a great extent under powerful sun, especially where the panes of 
glass are large, and do much to preserve the foliage in good condition. 
This must be kept as free as possible from red spider, as the retention 
of the principal leaves, with a moderate amount of lateral growth, is 
essential for the development of the buds for providing next year’s crop 
and the prevention of their starting prematurely, as would be the case 
if the foliage was shed early. Where fermenting material has been 
used on outside borders a portion of it should be removed or it will 
have become cold and heavy, leaving sufficient to avoid giving a sudden 
check. 
^ines Started at the New Year. —The Grapes are commencing to 
colour. Inside borders must have due, but not excessive, supplies of 
water, and a light mulching of short, sweet material, but no great 
means should as yet be employed to produce a dry condition of the 
atmosphere, as the Grapes will swell considerably in ripening. Tepid 
liquid manure will greatly benefit weakly or heavily cropped Vines, 
or a top-dressing of the advertised fertilisers applied after the soil 
has been duly moistened, and then washed in moderately, will tell in 
the current and succeeding year’s crop. Sprinkle the house in the early 
part of the day and at closing time, a little ventilation being provided 
constantly to induce a change of air and prevent the deposition of 
moisture on the berries. Maintain the temperature at 70° to 75° by 
day from artificial means, and 80° to 85° through the day from sun 
heat, advancing in the early afternoon to 90° or 95°, falling with the 
declining sun to a night temperature of 60° to 65°, 5° more by day and 
night being necessary for Muscats. As the fruit advances in colouring 
the moisture should be gradually reduced and the ventilation increased, 
but there must not be any diminution of the temperature until the 
Grapes are fully ripe. Grapes that are liable to crack, such as Madres¬ 
field Court, or to “ spot,” as Duke of Buccleuch, may, when ripening 
commences, have the needful supplies of water or liquid manure, and 
then have the inside border mulched with a couple of inches thickness 
of dry material, which, with early ventilation in the morning, insure 
these remarkably fine Grapes arriving at perfection. 
Succession JIcuscs. —Thinning the berries, stopping, and tying, must 
be attended to as occasion requires. Especially let all superfluous 
bunches be removed as soon as the number to be left on a Vine is 
decided. This is matter requiring some judgment, having regard to the 
vigour of the Vine and the variety ; a pound of Grapes of the large- 
berried sorts, such as Black Hamburgh, per foot run of rod being a good 
crop, and usually as heavy as forced Vines will bring to perfection 
annually. Examine the borders of succession houses at least once a 
week, and when dry supply water freely. Inside borders, especially 
those of open material, and with thorough drainage, will take almost 
any quantity after the Vines are in full foliage ; and with a full crop of 
Grapes, liquid manure, or its equivalent an approved fertiliser, should 
be applied at every alternate watering. Outside borders will not, as 
yet, require water, but where they lie high and dry, the soil being free, 
a light mulch of short material will prove beneficial, but avoid heavy 
dressings of soapy manure. 
Late Ilovses. —Late Vines must be tied and stopped as soon as they 
have made the requisite growth, pinching always being done when the 
leaf at the stopping joint is the size of a halfpenny. Allow sufficient 
lateral growth for covering the trellis evenly with foliage without 
crowding. Admit air freely on all favourable occasions, as there is the 
greatest benefit in well-developed leaves, stout and firm in texture, as 
on these and their continuance in health, with due supplies of nourish¬ 
ment at the roots, depends entirely the swelling and maturity of the 
crop, particularly the colouring or finishing process. Every advantage, 
therefore, should be taken of sun heat to increase the ventilation early in 
the day, but close early, excessive fire heat being injurious, and a 
vitiated atmosphere baneful, 
Newly Planted Vines. —When the roots have taken to the fresh soil 
and become active the Vines will show it by advancing in growth, and 
with due attention in watering at the roots and maintaining a genial’ 
atmosphere they will make rapid growth. Allowing all the wood to 
remain that can be exposed to light secures a vigorous root formation 
and a sturdy cane, through which the sap flows freely. This practice, 
however, is not so much in vogue at the present time as formerly, the 
number of shoots corresponding to the rods required per Vine being left 
on each, and the laterals on these are pinched at the first leaf and so on 
throughout the season, which results in thoroughly solidified canes that 
are allowed to bear an amount of fruit equal to about 1 lb. per rod in 
the following year. Whether this is a better system than the old one 
remains to be ascertained, not from a few years’ experience, but from 
that extending over a prolonged series. Supernumeraries intended for 
heavy cropping next year should be confined to one rod or cane, and the 
laterals pinched at the first joint, stopping the cane when it has made 
8 or 9 feet of growth up the trellis. The buds will then attain to 
perfect formation and matter be stored in the cane in their immediate 
vicinity. 
Vines in Greenhouses and Unheated Houses. —The Vines will now 
require disbudding, stopping, and tying. One shoot is sufficient to each 
spur, unless they are wide apart, when two may be left, but there must 
be scrupulous attention to prevent overcrowding, every leaf having space 
for development. Reserve the growths that show the best bunches, 
rubbing the others off. Stop two joints beyond the bunches, but rather 
than crowd pinch one joint beyond the fruit or even level with it. Tie 
down the shoots carefully and gradually. Stop the laterals at the first 
and every subsequent joint of growth. Old Vines do not sometimes 
bear freely, the spurs being weak. It is best to lay in shoots from the 
base of the rods and train them at intervals of about 3 feet, or one to 
each rod, which will increase root action, the Vines attaining greater 
vigour, and when the canes are formed the old rods may be cut away. 
This will cause diminished crops for a short time, but the old Vines with 
fresh canes willibear excellently, or much better than from old spurs. Apply 
a dressing of chemical manure, 3 or 4 ozs. per square yard, and point it 
in very lightly. Inside borders may be treated similarly or be supplied 
with liquid manure, giving water as required, when dry a thorough 
soaking, and a light thin mulching of short sweet manure will, by 
keeping the surface moist, encourage active roots near the top of the 
border. 
Melons.— Early Plants. —When the fruit begins ripening lessen 
the supply of water at the roots, but not so as to distress the plants by 
cansing ihe foliage to flag, for if the growths be kept clean and the 
roots in good condition a second crop of fruit may be had. Atmospheric 
moisture should be withheld and a circulation of dry air insured, 
increasing the temperature to 70° or 75° artificially and 80° to 90° with 
sun heat. Cut the fruits before they are very ripe, keeping them in a 
fruit room, or place not directly exposed to the sun, yet sufficiently warm 
to insure ripening, for two or three days, so as to mature evenly, when 
only they are in proper condition to be sent to the table. Cracked fruits 
are produced by a close and moist atmosphere, especially at night. If 
any fruits show a tendency to crack cut the shoots about half way 
through with a knife a few inches below the fruit, and diminish the 
supply of water, leaving a little ventilation constantly to prevent 
moisture condensing on the fruit. 
Successional Plants. —In order to effect a good set of fruit the 
atmosphere should be kept rather drier and warmer when the plants are 
coming into blossom, attending early to the ventilation, and leaving a 
little constantly if there is danger of moisture condensing on the flowers. 
Fertilise the blossoms when fully expanded, stopping the shoots one or 
two joints beyond the fruit at the time the fertilisation is done. To 
secure a full crop fake care to have a number of fruits on individual 
plants in the same stage of growth. Earth-up the plants with some 
rather strong and rich loam after the fruits commence swelling, ramming 
it down firmly, placing a little quicklime around the collar to prevent- 
canker. Plants swelling their fruits should be freely syringed in hot 
weather about 3 p.m., damping the floor in the morning and evening,, 
or oftener if necessary. Shade only to prevent flagging. Ventilate 
early in favourable weather, commencing from 75° to 80°, increasing or 
decreasing it through the day as may be necessary, maintaining a day 
temperature of 80° to 85°, or 90° with tun heat, closing between 80°’ 
and 85°. If an advance is made after closing to 90° or 95°, or even 
100 °, it will materially assist the fruit in swelling, and lessen the 
necessity for fire heat at night, but it must be accompanied by 
plenty of atmospheric moisture. If aphides or thrips appear fumigate 
moderately, with tobacco or vapourite with nicotine on two or 
three consecutive evenings, taking care to have the foliage dry, and 
for red spider and white fly dress the hot-water pipes with flowers of 
sulphur. 
Pits and Frames. —Train the growths evenly, avoiding crowding, 
adding fresh soil to the hillocks as the roots protrude. The shoots should' 
be trained sufficiently far apart as to allow the light to reach the bed,, 
then the growths will be sturdy and fruitful. Fertilise the flowers- 
about midday, stopping the laterals one joint beyond the fruit. Still 
maintain a good bottom heat by linings, and employ thick night cover¬ 
ings, as the nights are yet cold. Commence ventilating early, between 
70° and 75°, and keep through the day at 80° to 90° from sun heat, 
closing early in the afternoon, so as to secure a temperature of 90° to 95°. 
Sow seeds for raising plants to put out in pits or frames as they become 
cleared of bedding plants and early Potatoes, potting the plants as- 
n quired. 
