438 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
May 16,1899. 
TOKK.Foil'rHEWEEK.. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Hoelngr amongr Trees and Busbes. —A little attention to hoeing 
down seedling weeds and any advanced in size during sunny weather, 
will tend to keep the fruit quarters in good trim, and reduce similar 
work in the future. Weeds abstract food from the soil just as much as 
legitimate crops. Their presence on the ground ought not, therefore, 
to be tolerated for this reason as well as the important one of neatness 
and high cultivation in the fruit garden. 
Strawberries.— If mulchings of manure for assisting the growth 
of Strawberry plants, maintaining the soil moist, and the fruit clean, 
have not yet been applied to established fruit-bearing beds this ought to 
be carried out at once. In moist weather a little soot sprinkled over the 
roots will act most beneficially, not only in nourishing the feeding fibres 
now in active operation, but in preventing the depredations of slugs 
among the svyelling and ripening fruit later on. In dry, poor soils, a 
dressing of nitrate of soda is of great assistance in accelerating growth, 
being especially serviceable to the older, though not absolutely ex¬ 
hausted beds. Apply it at the rate of 1 oz. per square yard. Pound it 
small, and keep it away from the foliage. Liquid manure should also, 
if possible, be given to the plants whenever they promise to bear freely 
and the soil is somewhat poor. Fruit for exhibition will need extra 
attention given to the plants. Flower trusses must be thinned, and 
deformed fruit cut out as soon as detected. Fine large fruit of delicious 
quality is the outcome of intelligent attention, good soil, and judicious 
feeding. 
Planting Forced Straioberries. —Plants of good varieties that have 
been forced are worth retaining, if only to provide stock for obtaining 
a supply of runners. After duly hardening the plants in cold frames 
they may be planted in rich, well prepared soil made firm about 
them. Afford water liberally in dry weather until the plants are 
well rooted. 
Young Plants.—Yery young or recently planted Strawberries must, 
if fiowering, have the blooms nipped off, so that the energies of the plants 
may be utilised in the production of vigorous growth. This treatment 
secures plump, stout crowns for the succeeding year’s crop. Keep down 
runners as they are produced. Using the Dutch hoe between the 
plants encourages growths, but in hot, dry weather cover the soil 
with manure. 
Tying: and Stopping Vine Shoots.— The growth of Vines on 
outdoor walls is advancing, and the shoots require attention in securing 
them in position, stopping them one or two joints beyond the bunches of 
fruit. Fruitless shoots if reserved must be stopped at the sixth leaf. 
Overcrowding is prevented by timely disbudding, but where shoots are 
still too thickly placed have no hesitation in cutting some out, 
dispensing with a few at a time, which is better than clearing off a 
number of growths at one operation, and so preventing any possible 
check. 
Apricots, Peaches, and STectarlnes. —Look out for aphides on 
the young shoots, giving the first comers a dusting of tobacco powder, 
afterwards washing it off, or syringe with a diluted solution of tobacco 
juice, a pint of the latter to 2 gallons of soapy water. Curled leaves on 
Apricots may probably be found occupied with the leaf-rolling cater¬ 
pillar. The best method of exterminating it is by crushing the grubs, as 
insecticides cannot reach them. Flowers of sulphur dusted on leaves 
affected with mildew will destroy the fungus, so also will sulphide of 
potassium, half an ounce to the gallon of water, sprayed on the foliage 
affected. 
Gooseberries.— Caterpillars infesting Gooseberry bushes cause 
considerable damage by eating away the succulent parts of the leaves, 
therefore the first broods that may appear ought to be destroyed as soon 
as possible. At this early stage it is safe to use white hellebore powder 
to kill them, which it does readily. Dredge it on the infested parts, or 
if it can be more easily applied with the syringe mix 2 ozs. into a paste 
with boiling water, and add 2 gallons of water before using. Hellebore 
being a poison, it should be washed off the fruit before gathering. Red 
spider on Gooseberry foliage may be destroyed by syringing both sides 
of the foliage with a mixture of sulphur and softsoap, 2 ozs. of each to 
the gallon of water. Some of the numerous insecticides so readilv 
obtainable are very useful remedies to have at hand when time presses 
and insects are rapidly increasing. Remedies applied at the first 
attacks save both time and trouble afterwards. 
Watering Fruit Trees.— Wall trees and others in dry positions 
ought to have the soil moistened if at all deficient in that respect. Clear 
water applied now to dry soil will prepare it to receive liquid manure 
when the fruit is swelling, additional assistance then being needed by 
the roots. Young trees newly planted will require water during pro¬ 
longed dry periods, following with light mulchings of short manure to 
conserve the moisture. Heavy and retentive soils need little, if any, 
water at present, but the surface must be kept loose. Liquid manure 
may be applied to old Gooseberry and Currant bushes, which will 
enhance the size of the fruit now swelling. 
Removing Superfluous Growths.— Continue removing) shoots 
or growths that crowd on those necessary to retain, or that are ill 
placed in any way. It is especially necessary to be particular in this 
respect, and in regulating the growths when training young trees, as by 
these means, properly directed, the foundations of symmetrical speci¬ 
mens are laid, 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and ZTectarlnes. — Earliest Forced Trees. — Where, a 
house of the very early varieties, such as Alexander, Waterloo, and 
Early Louise Peaches, Advance and Early Rivers Nectarines, was 
started at the middle of December, and forwarded by fire heat since 
the new year, the fruit will be ripening or ripe. This is a clear gain of 
a month on the older and more approved forcing varieties, such as 
Hale’s Early, Royal George, Stirling Castle, Dymond, and Grosse 
Mignonne Peaches, Hunt’s Tawny, and Stanwick Elruge Nectarines; 
and the fruits being early bring good prices in the markets, these 
ranging from 18s. to 363. per dozen this year, the difference in 
the values being due to the size, colour, and condition of the 
specimens. While the fruit is ripening, and until it is cleared from 
the trees, water must be withheld from it, but a genial condition of the 
atmosphere must be maintained for the benefit of the foliage, the paths 
and borders being damped as occasioned by their becoming dry, and 
water be duly supplied to the soil, so as to keep it in a healthy condition. 
No injury results from the moisture provided it is accompanied by 
judicious ventilation, a little being afforded constantly at the top of the 
house. 
Trees Started at the Few Year. —Where these consist of varieties 
last named in the preceding paragraph the fruit will be in the last 
stages of stoning, the second early varieties having completed that 
process, and must not be subjected to a higher temperature than 60° to 
65° by artificial means, commencing to increase the ventilation at 65°, 
not allowing 75° to be exceeded without full ventilation. Tie in the 
shoots as they advance, removing superfinous growths, as it is important 
no more be trained-in than can have full exposure to light and air. If 
the shoots are crowded thin them as soon as the stoning is completed. 
Allow one fruit to every square foot of trellis covered with foliage, which 
will be one to every shoot of last year, although vigorous shoots may be 
allowed to carry two fruits. By apportioning the fruit to the vigour of 
the trees or degrees of this in different parts the evenness of the growth 
may be maintained throughout the tree. After the stoning is completed 
maintain adequate supplies of moisture in the house by syringing up to 
the fruit commencing to soften, when it must be discontinued over the 
trees ; but the borders and paths well damped twice a day, or as 
occasion require. Inside borders require water about once a week when 
of a porous nature ; firm and retentive soil need supplies less frequently. 
A light mulching of short, sweet material will save watering, encourage 
surface roots, and promote a genial condition of the atmosphere. Unless 
it is desired to accelerate the ripening, continue 60° to 65° as the night 
temperature, and 65° by day artificially in dull weather, and 75° with 
sun heat, closing at the latter with abundance of moisture. In a higher 
temperature, and correspondingly moister atmosphere, the fruits swell 
to a great size after stoning, being very tempting in appearance if well 
exposed to light, but they are not so well flavoured as those produced in 
less heat and moisture, with free ventilation. 
Trees Started in February. —As the fruit is now commencing the 
stoning process in earnest the number, if too many, should be reduced, 
leaving two fruits on strong shoots, but one will be sufficient on the 
weaker. Reserve in all instances the best situated fruits for receiving 
air and light. Avoid crowding, thinning where too close, stopping 
laterals to one joint, and pinching off the points of successional growths 
at about 15 inches from their base. The temperature by artificial 
means may be kept at 55° to 60° at night, 60° to 65° by day artificially, 
ventilating from 65°, and fully between 70° and 75°, it not being pos¬ 
sible to give too much air to Peach houses, only avoid sudden fluctua¬ 
tions, and secure the requisite temperature for steady progress. 
Trees Started in March. —To secure fine fruit and full crops without 
distressing the trees, thinning must commence early and be followed up 
so that few more than will be required for the crop remain at the 
commencement of the stoning process. It can now be seen which 
fruits have taken the lead, hence they should he reduced to two or 
three on strong shoots, one or two on medium, and one or none on 
weak. Remove all superfluous growths, the remaining shoots being 
trained to the trellis as they advance. Afford nourishment to weakly 
trees, either as top-dressings of the advertised fertilisers, washed in 
or as liquid manure. Vigorous trees need mineral matter, such as 
lime, phosphate or superphosphate being most suitable, washing in 
with clear water only. 
Late Houses. —As the crop is now well set, a moderate syringing on 
fine mornings will be of great assistance in ridding the fruit of the 
remains of the flowers. Commence thinning when the fruits are the size 
of horse beans, removing the smallest and worst placed, leaving a few 
more only than will be required for the crop. Disbudding and heeling- 
in the shoots should be carefully attended to. A temperature of 50° at 
night will be safe, and 55° by day artificially, ventilating freely from 
and above that unless it is desired to hasten the crop, when a tempera¬ 
ture of 55° at night and 60° to 65° by day artificially may be secured 
with 70° to 75° by day from sun heat, ventilating from 65°. This rapid 
forcing is not desirable nor at all times safe. 
Unheated Houses. —A moderate syringing on fine mornings or early 
in the afternoon will be of great assistance in ridding the fruit of the 
